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General control line discussion => Open Forum => Topic started by: Avaiojet on October 06, 2015, 03:34:26 PM
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I haven't used these things in so long, I cannot remember who makes them?
I tried Brodak's website and came up empty.
Someone must sell them.
These "keepers" are the ones that look like a cork screw for removing a cork.
They go on the 90 degree bend at the control horn end of the pushrod.
Thanks in advance.
Charles
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Brodak sells them.
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But I would not trust them, wherever they come from.
Just saying.
(And I am not trying to pick on Charles.)
Keith
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But I would not trust them, wherever they come from.
Just saying.
(And I am not trying to pick on Charles.)
Keith
If Brodak has them I couldn't find them?
Keith,
Well, thank you.
Thing is, I don't trust them either.
We used to put a strip of small diam. fuel tubing around them, just to be sure.
I mistakenly bent the 90 degree pushrod end in the wrong direction.
I don't trust my soldering either.
I don't believe I have many options.
Charles
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JB weld a washer on the end. Make a few passes with a file to create notches, slide on washer coat with JB Weld... Done
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If Brodak has them I couldn't find them?
http://brodak.com/control-line-parts/control-rod-retainer.html
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Jim,
That's exactly the item I was thinking of.
What a guy! H^^
Thank you for the reply and the link.
Charles
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I use them on profile and sport planes. But I also put a piece of tubing over them.
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eBay. That's where I bought the several pairs from. Made by "Perfect".
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http://www.perfectpartscompany.com/PerfectAirplaneMainFrame.htm
Perfect is still in business and has them + a lot of other stuff I bet you thought was gone!
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4-40 threaded rod end with a steel Du-Bro clevis.Adjustable in .0125 increments.
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4-40 threaded rod end with a steel Du-Bro clevis.Adjustable in .0125 increments.
At least use a Sullivan gold with the little keeper and be sure to put a lock nut on the threaded rod to keep it from vibrating the threads to dust.
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The wise man will listen to Keith Trostle and Bob Reeves. The "Perfect" style keepers are NOT so perfect. Under stress such as high wind etc...they will flex and fail! Washers either soldered or as suggested JB Weld always works and does not fail. It can be removed with a heat gun if necessary.
Randy Cuberly
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The wise man will listen to Keith Trostle and Bob Reeves. The "Perfect" style keepers are NOT so perfect. Under stress such as high wind etc...they will flex and fail! Washers either soldered or as suggested JB Weld always works and does not fail. It can be removed with a heat gun if necessary.
Randy Cuberly
OK,
I will solder the end. Thanks for the advice.
And I'll Post a photo.
Charles
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But I would not trust them, wherever they come from.
Just saying.
Keith
This. In trumps.
I watched a crash in May. It was attributed to one of these failing.
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This. In trumps.
I watched a crash in May. It was attributed to one of these failing.
I told you I would solder it. Plus a keeper for back-up.
Just to be sure.
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Your soldering technique needs a LOT of work and practice. The photo of your elevator horn should be in Wikipedia to show what a cold solder joint looks like, and it's not even all the way around the washer. A wheel collar with a set screw would be more secure than what you have there, even with the pig tailed keeper. Hope you lead outs are secured at the bell crank better than that.
And where is your AMA number? How can you enter this airplane in a contest without an AMA number? Must be 1" high or more on the upper surface of the right wing. You are going to fly this model and enter it at least in a local contest, correct?
Type at you later,
Dan McEntee
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Dan take a picture of yours and show us what it looks like.
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Charles,
When you solder something like that you need to thouroughly clean both parts to be soldered with an abrasive like 400 grit sandpaper, then clean with isopropol alcohol. Use 60/40 rosin core solder and with a soldering iron tip cleaned with a wet sponge or wet paper towel tin the tip with solder and apply the hot soldering iron tip to the object to be soldered and heat it with the solder applied to the object (not to the soldering iron) and wait until the solder flows freely, then remove the soldering iron and solder you're holding then let the solder cool to hard (usually a few seconds) before moving anything. Do it this way and you'll have a strong clean smooth joint.
Randy Cuberly
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Dan take a picture of yours and show us what it looks like.
Goin' flyin' this morning, will email you one when I get home
Type at you later,
Dan McEntee
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Dan take a picture of yours and show us what it looks like.
Robert,
The sodering doesn't look neat, so I "see" the concern and appreciate it. Thanks guys.
I don't like soldering close to aluminum, especially thin aluminum like this control horn. Bad choice on my part, but I had it.
Heat and thin aluminum control horns, probably not a good thing.
The photo is actually a poor one, in that you cannot see that the solder does wrap around well. I made an ever so slight groove that the brass washer sits in also.
I put pliers on the washer and gave it the pull test. It's going no where. Did the same pull test on all the washers for the main wheels, on both models also, so it's fine.
I do an extensive "preflite" test for the Flite Streak, so I'll keep an eye on it. See the pun? And I'm kidding about an "extensive" preflight, but I do look at things before I fly.
Like that all girl soccer team. I'm kidding!
What I do need is a lesson in graphic design. ;D
Hey Robert!
Congratulations on taking that next step towards design and layout independence. I watched your plotter/cutter videos.
You're a natural with layered paint masks, like you have been doing it your whole life.
You are talented Robert. H^^
Lots of guys in your Forum have cutters. You can draw with them also. Great equipment.
Charles
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Robert,
The sodering doesn't look neat, so I "see" the concern and appreciate it. Thanks guys.
I don't like soldering close to aluminum, especially thin aluminum like this control horn. Bad choice on my part, but I had it.
Heat and thin aluminum control horns, probably not a good thing.
The photo is actually a poor one, in that you cannot see that the solder does wrap around well. I made an ever so slight groove that the brass washer sits in also.
I put pliers on the washer and gave it the pull test. It's going no where. Did the same pull test on all the washers for the main wheels, on both models also, so it's fine.
I do an extensive "preflite" test for the Flite Streak, so I'll keep an eye on it. See the pun? And I'm kidding about an "extensive" preflight, but I do look at things before I fly.
Like that all girl soccer team. I'm kidding!
What I do need is a lesson in graphic design. ;D
Hey Robert!
Congratulations on taking that next step towards design and layout independence. I watched your plotter/cutter videos.
You're a natural with layered paint masks, like you have been doing it your whole life.
You are talented Robert. H^^
Lots of guys in your Forum have cutters. You can draw with them also. Great equipment.
Charles
Why would you be concerned about soldering next to an aluminum control horn. I'm curious and would really like to hear about it. No known metallurgical reason that I'm aware off.
I just emailed some pictures to Sparky for him to post. I don't have the spare time others do to master photo re-sizing to post to the forums. I have a tree in my back yard that I took down and need to finish cleaning up the resulting mess, then some other duties before I sleep.
If Sparky posts them, enjoy. I did these in a hurry and that may show, but should illustrate what I was talking about.
Type at you later,
Dan McEntee
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Why would you be concerned about soldering next to an aluminum control horn. I'm curious and would really like to hear about it. No known metallurgical reason that I'm aware off.
I just emailed some pictures to Sparky for him to post. I don't have the spare time others do to master photo re-sizing to post to the forums. I have a tree in my back yard that I took down and need to finish cleaning up the resulting mess, then some other duties before I sleep.
If Sparky posts them, enjoy. I did these in a hurry and that may show, but should illustrate what I was talking about.
Type at you later,
Dan McEntee
What email address did you send them to? I didn't get them
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just checking in and saw that my email was returned. I sent them to sparkyfl @ charter.net. Is that not correct? Will try sending again.
Type at you later,
Dan McEntee
EDIT: Sent thenm to .com instead of .net. Just corrected that. Sorry about that Chief!