profile c/l horns

[Bootlegger]

    Guy's where are y'all gettin your profile control horns?

 In particular I am looking at 1"-1 1/4" tall horns.   Thanks,Gil

[Paul Taylor]

Gil
I get the heavy duty ones. Also sometimes I get the left and right horns and put them back to back.

[Ward Van Duzer]

Buy straight (unbent) 3/32" ( or 1/8") wire horns and bend them off center as needed.

w.

[Bootlegger]

  Thanks Paul and Ward, Paul where do you get yours at?
  Again thanks...

[Paul Taylor]

Gil
Tower has a good selection. I have used the heavy duty T type or like I said put two back to back for more strength.

[Bill Allen]

Gil: The BEST profile horns are available from Tom Morris...w/wout adjustable slider.  The pilot can make incremental changes n travel as is needed. You'll spend extra time for installation but the results are worth it. IF you want me to walk you thru it verbally and/or with pix I'll be happy to do it. Currently (as I type) constructing my 2nd Fancerized TWISTER using these with laminated flaps/stab/elevators. This process gives you an absolutely STRAIGHT hinge line!  My e-mail is  allen.wm42@Yahoo.com or (815)-758-0741.  Regards/ Bill Allen

[Steve Helmick]

Take a look at these, if you're looking for bolt-on horns for FS's, Ringmasters, etc.:  Steve

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFV36&P=7

[Bill Little]

Take a look at these, if you're looking for bolt-on horns for FS's, Ringmasters, etc.:  Steve

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFV36&P=7 

HI Steve,

I have looked at those metal ones many, many times.  How do they work in the air?  It seems they would be much stronger than nylon ones.

Thanks!
Bill

[Paul Wood]

HI Steve,

I have looked at those metal ones many, many times.  How do they work in the air?  It seems they would be much stronger than nylon ones.

Thanks!
Bill

Bill,

I have used those horns many times on R/C aircraft.  They are very good, but....  The plastic inserts that the control rod clevis passes through are very suseptible to UV deteriation.  I recently dug a couple out of my junk box to use on a scratch Nobler.  The plastic plates crumbled in my fingers.  The remaining holes in the metal are pretty large.  You might be able to sleeve them, but I didn't have the courage.

Paul

[Larry Cunningham]

I'd say to use whatever you would use on a full fuselage model. Get the unbent ones and custom bend them for the needed profile offset. There's virtually no difference in the flap and elevator control horn functions on either type of model. It takes similar hardware and effort to get similar control smoothness and feel.

I wouldn't use the wimpy little RC bolt on type referenced above. Just me, they may be wonderful, but I prefer wires on the control horns. If I were inclined to use a bolt on tab type horn, I wouldn't use a metal one, unless it had a proper brass tubing bushing soldered to it for the control rod - nylon is a good bearing material and will not egg out like an unbushed thin metal unit.

Good luck!

L.

"An autobiography is the story of how a man thinks he lived." -Herbert Samuel

[Steve Helmick]

Mike Haverly has used the Sullivan 1 1/8" metal horn on several models, and likes them for Barnstormers, Ringmasters, etc. I'm pretty sure he slices off the plastic bit and uses 4-40 ball links, maybe with a bushing. You do need to reinforce the elevator or flap area to take the fastener compression. I'll agree with Larry C. on the flaps, but the Sullivan horns will work fine on the elevator of a profile.  Steve

[John Stiles]

I've gotten good at making them out of 1/8" lite ply

[Jim Morris]

I made mine out of aluminum for my kit bashed Twister.They look like the nylon ones in the kit. I found that the nylon ones will flex with ball links.