stunthanger.com
General control line discussion => Open Forum => Topic started by: Paul Taylor on August 12, 2022, 11:38:07 AM
-
I need to silk my fuse and the tissue I have is the heavy grade. I have some Polyspan. Is it ok to use poly on the fuse?
-
I've never had good luck getting polyspan to go around compound curves. maybe someone knows a trick to it?
-
Hi Paul Not a good idea. It will need to be sanded and that brings up the fuzzies, which will drive you to a different hobby. Use the heavy silkspan. H^^
Thanks Ty. 👍🏼
-
I'd use the tissue from the craft shop with clear dope, or 3/4 oz. FG with epoxy (Z-poxy "finishing resin" is perfect). y1 Steve
-
Paul I have covered profiles with Polyspan with no problem. I talked to Tom Morris about this a few years ago and he said it should make the fuselage very strong. I just filled it with lots of dope and sanded very carefully with 320 grit sandpaper.
Mike
-
Medium weight tissue is a much better option than polyspan on a built-up fuselage. I would think that this is true for a profile as well. The all-time easiest and most likely the strongest, is glass cloth, and a good finishing resin. An alternative to epoxy resin is of course, good old dope. Nitrate dope on glass cloth is probably also more rigid that with epoxy resin, and has the advantage of being a lot less messy as well. It sure dries quicker than epoxy, so this is another option.
For the last few years I've been making models out of mostly extruded foam, similar to Depron. Here in Darkest Africa, we get Isoboard which is used for ceiling insulation. I made my own cnc foam cutter and successfully made quite a few trainers and WW2 combat models. I covered them with medium weight tissue and white wood glue mixed with water, and they come out quite nicely. Then I tried some lightweight glass cloth (25 grams/sq.metre) and of course, I could not use dope so I resorted to aliphatic resin instead of the PVA white glue because it dries to a hard surface and sands nicely. This is a lot stronger and more ding-resistant than using the tissue option. On balsa however, I would stick to dope, and you can also do that trick that Phil Granderson does, and that is to add some talcum power to the dope for the last coat or two and then it fills the grain of the cloth very well.
-
I need to silk my fuse and the tissue I have is the heavy grade. I have some Polyspan. Is it ok to use poly on the fuse?
Yes, but I would not do that (and don't) unless I have an open-bay section (like the aft fuse on a Nobler). If there is an open bay section, cover that with polyspan with about a 3/4" to 1" margin, tighten it up, the cover over with carbon tissue with gaps over the open bay part. I I am planning on doing that with the wing, too.
Brett
-
FWIW, my standard technique with hand-carved balsa prop. blades for F/F rubber models is: 1) on the bare wood,
apply lightweight glass cloth with epoxy laminating resin, 2) after curing, fill the weave of the cloth with as many coats of dope/talcum powder mix as necessary (sanding between coats, of course), and 3) apply the desired finish. The resulting blades are very stiff and strong, and not unduly heavy.
-
Thanks for all the input. I went with tissue paper. I’ll just sand .001 off to make it lite tissue. 🤣🤣🤣
Getting closer to painting. 😬