Please Help Identify this O&R Engine

[Christopher Root]

Hello!

I just inherited another engine, this time an Ohlsson and Rice C/L (or FF) engine. Any info on it would be greatly appreciated. Looks to me like a 0.10 to 0.15 size glow engine, but there is no marking.  Also, in terms of style, seems reminiscent of an ignition engine.  No cylinder head screws.  Does the entire head screw off like a Cox engine?  Thank you in advance,

C R

[kenneth cook]

            If memory serves me correctly the aluminum head is the .23 front rotor where the blue head was the .29. I do believe the blue heads were the later versions and the size is indicated directly behind the venturi stack on the front of the cylinder on the .29. Some gold heads were .19-.23. There was also a .33. You can't remove the cylinder as it's a one piece assembly spot welded onto the case. The engine doesn't produce a lot of rpm's and seeing that someone fitted what looks to be a Enya needle valve to the venturi, I can assume that the wider spraybar is going to really rob a lot of choke area. The stock needle valve assembly was very thin where it passed through and easily damaged. You can remove the bolts to access the front of the case, there's a thin thrust bearing internally with needles in it. Make certain they're free and not all glued up with castor prior to running it.

[Christopher Root]

Thank you!  Seems small for a .23.  Maybe I can get a new NVA for it.  Any thoughts as to where I might get that?

C R

[afml]

If memory serves......
Which most times it doesn't.....
That serial number is usually associated with the O&R 19 size motors.
Good luck with the motor and use plenty of castor in your fuel if you intend to run it
"Tight Lines!" 
Wes

[Steve Helmick]

Dad's O&R .29 glow (Barnstormer) had a "silver" head, and oldest brother's Sterling "Polish Fighter" had an O&R .33, which had a red head. I thought the .33's head was for sure anodized, so aluminum.

I know about the cylinder being pegged into place and the plug was welded into the case. But also know that the cylinder was blind bored, so the head was one-piece with the cylinder/fins. The fins and cylinder are steel, so functionally the head was steel also. But the aluminum "head fins" were swaged onto the cylinder somehow?  Some of those old engine makers really went out of the way to make things difficult for themselves, huh?  Steve

[Christopher Root]

Got it!   When I disassemble the engine, I’ll measure the piston and get back to you.  Should I replace the Enya NVA with something else, maybe a McCoy .19 NVA?

[kenneth cook]

            What is your plans for this engine? If your intentions are flying it, try it as is.  It's neat, it's vintage, it's a bit loud but it has very low power. Whoever installed the Enya nva drilled the case to suit it, therefore a original is no longer a option or others that are correct without bushing it back down.

[Christopher Root]

Yeah, my goal is to more or less “restore,” bench run, and just have a little fun with it.  The aluminum air intake/Venturi is cracked from a crash.  Maybe I’ll be lucky enough to find another front end and just bolt on a new one.  I think this would solve my NVA issue as well

C R

[Christopher Root]

Aha!  Pulled the front end off the motor.  Indeed an O&R .23!  Looking at the inside of the faceplate, am I missing two bearings, or is it supposed to be this way? Anyone know what time period this engine is?  Or where I can get a replacement front end? The AL venturi is broken. . .

C R

[Jim Kraft]

You could pull one of the bearings out and check. It may be the same size as music wire. You could make a couple. Or just move one over to make them more even. You can get the piston rod out by turning it cross ways, and sliding it out. Be sure to put it back with the baffle on the intake side.

I have a couple of 23 side port ignition Ohlsson's, and they run great. The one on my 60" Lanzo Bomber has many hours on it and still runs great.

[Ara Dedekian]

      Christopher

           Go to the following subject on 'engine setup tips' for some good info on your O&R engine. 'O&R 19 Side Port', Sept 21, 2015. (Don't know how to transfer it to this page). I've had fun restoring some Ohlssons on ignition but the word on the street is they don't hold up well to running on glow. I think because of the higher RPM and an inaccessible cylinder to case seal.

      Ara

[MikeyPratt]

Hi Chris,
From my limited knowledge, it seems like it’s in good shape and it is a “glow version”.  More than likely from the 1950 +ish version because it had a metal cover over the front bearing area, and the large exhaust opening.  That cover was to hide the location of the timer for a more modern look.  The only way to tell for sure is to measure the piston to tell if it is a 23 or 29.  I bought a 29 from a guy that said it was, marked with a 29 on the intake housing.  It turned out to be a 23 piston & cylinder. 

The oversized needle valve area can be fixed by adding short lengths of aluminum tubing held in place with JB epoxy.  If you can find a Austincraft needle valve assembly or a O&R replacement you can return it to like new condition.

Later,
Mikey

P.S. Have Fun!

[Jim Kraft]

All kinds of spark ignition parts were available from Woody Bartelt at Woody's engines. But He passed away a few months ago and I do not believe anyone took it over. A real shame as he provided lots of stuff for us old ignition users. I have had to improvise and make my own parts, and tools, for some engines. He would have had the spray bar and needle for that engine. Although, they are not the best as they have to course of threads and are very touchy. I still use them though. I have ground a little more taper into them to make the adjustment a little less sensitive.

I just got a brand new one and am breaking it in. The instructions say 2 and 1/2 hours before running full power. This is the second one I have broken in, and the first one seemed to take forever. This one seems to be about the same.

[FLOYD CARTER]

Don't spend too much time/money on this engine before running it.  You might just find that the cylinder/crankcase gasket could be leaking.  No way to fix it.

If it runs without leaking, you might have a good sport engine.  Steel piston'cylinder, so use at least 25% castor oil and go easy on the nitro.

[nobler]

A little history on your .23.  The first glow version was released in mid 1949.  There were minor variations after that, such as adding a fuel tank on the rear case in 1950. I think O & R used the same case as the .19. Currell