stunthanger.com
General control line discussion => Open Forum => Topic started by: peabody on December 31, 2017, 03:35:11 PM
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I'll wager that the film on the new Brodak ARFs doesn't stay stuck any better than previous...
I have used clear urethane furniture stuff on the seams in the past.
My friend Joel has clear coated the entire plane....
Some have used hair spray? A bald guy as I recall.....
There used to be a product called DecLac but I cannot find any....
What are folks using?
Thanks...and Happy 2018!
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I'll wager that the film on the new Brodak ARFs doesn't stay stuck any better than previous...
I have used clear urethane furniture stuff on the seams in the past.
My friend Joel has clear coated the entire plane....
Some have used hair spray? A bald guy as I recall.....
There used to be a product called DecLac but I cannot find any....
What are folks using?
Thanks...and Happy 2018!
Rich,
3M Edge sealer # 3950.
Might want to give that a try. No guarantee because I've never used the product.
CB
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I have used clear nail polish on other coverings and I think it helps. It certainly wouldn't hurt to go over the seams with your own iron either.
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Doesn't Monocoat make a liquid Trim Seal ??? Maybe we should ask Larry Fernandez
Randy
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Rich,
3M Edge sealer # 3950.
Might want to give that a try. No guarantee because I've never used the product.
CB
Why would you suggest something you have never used?
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I did a test on the new Brodak plastic covering and it is far superior to the old stuff.
The new plastic covering has the same colors and characteristics as the covering from Hobby King.
I have a model that was covered 7 years with the Hobby King covering and it is still good today.
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Why would you suggest something you have never used?
Because that product is designed exactly for this purpose.
I know others that use it with great success. So I'm told.
I'm in the Sign, Art and Graphics business and in this business we don't troll each other. There's no jealously. Just a great bunch of guys trying to better their knowledge and abilities with the use of professional products made for the trade community.
We chat about new products, and old products, all the time.
I've never experienced misleading information, not with these guys anyway.
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Doesn't Monocoat make a liquid Trim Seal ??? Maybe we should ask Larry Fernandez
Randy
I knew as soon as saw the subject heading, that some wise-ass would drag my name into this
I didn’t think it would be you Randy
Happy New Year to you all!!
Even my smart-ass so called friends
Larry, Buttafucco Stunt Team
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Because that product is designed exactly for this purpose.
I know others that use it with great success. So I'm told.
I'm in the Sign, Art and Graphics business and in this business we don't troll each other. There's no jealously. Just a great bunch of guys trying to better their knowledge and abilities with the use of professional products made for the trade community.
We chat about new products, and old products, all the time.
I've never experienced misleading information, not with these guys anyway.
But you don't use it in your business? Any reason for that? Are you new to this business? Have you read up on this product to learn of it's properties? I just did, and it doesn't sound like something I would use on a IC powered model because it is not oil resistant. And it doesn't have a very long shelf life, and is probably expensive to boot. Your buddies in the sticker business probably don't know spam from shoe polish about fuel proof finishes either. It will probably turn into a gooey mess when fuel and exhaust residue get to it. If you don't use it in your own business, or on your own airplanes, and know nothing about it, it's not a good idea to recommend any product to any one. I'm just sayin'.
Type at you later,
Dan McEntee
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I guess I will throw my two cents in. People that have trouble with the iron on coverings probably never read the instructions completely. I remember when Monokote first came out with the sticky glue/color you had to be careful with. Then they improved with the adhesive/color and made it so much easier. I tried Solar film when it first came on the scene. Never again as the hobby shop quit carrying it. I've used almost every brand of Monokote copies. I learned to get a good seal I had to ipe the edge down with acetone or alcohol. Yes, I did have a few in which the edge lifted, but a little work and it was corrected. All coverings take a learning curve and patience. D>K
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A few years ago one of my acquaintances suggested a mixture of 1/2 Fletch Glue (used to attach feathers to arrows) and 1/2 MEK that's methyl-ethyl-keitone peroxide. I mixed some up, didn't inhale any vapors and applied the mix to the edges of some old Brodak covering. It worked for me and is still attached! Get the Fletch glue at a hunting outlet/store MEK is or used to be available at Lowes and Home Depot. You might give this a shot.
Phil Spillman
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FYI, MEK and MEK peroxide are two different animals. MEK is an often used solvent while MEK peroxide is the hardener used to "kick" polyester resin. Regards, Blaine
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I have been using monokote trim solvent for years, put it on with a small brush and wipe and push down. Don't know if anything will work on some covering. Should work great on this new stuff. Steve
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I have used KBS Diamond Finish Clear coat (https://www.kbs-coatings.com/DiamondFinish-Clear.html) on the nose of my Yak-Yak as a test three years ago and it is still solid no edges lifting. KBS recommends cleaning surface to remove oil then scuff with 600 paper. They have a 15 oz rattle can and a 4 oz can either listed for $15.95. One thing about this product at least with the can is once opened is has about a 6 - 9 month ish shelf life. I had tried the 4oz sample kit and resealed the lid with saran wrap but it went solid on the shelf. I think the rattle can may have a longer shelf life.
Best, DennisT
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Doesn't Monocoat make a liquid Trim Seal ??? Maybe we should ask Larry Fernandez
Randy
I've used the Monocoat stuff for decades. Seal down any obvious edges with a iron first. Then Just wet a cue tip and run it down the edges. First thing I do with every ARF. Very smelly I do it outside. After your done you don't even see it. Not perfect but way better then hot stuff.
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Seal the edge down by wiping the iron from the panel across the edge. Wiping the iron forces airbubbles near the edge out so the adhesive can seal. That can be very difficult to do in some nooks and crannies unless you use a trim iron.
Lightly brush on a narrow strip of epoxy along the edges, especially near the motor area. Wipe any excess off with a paper towel for a clean finish, The idea is to leave a tiny amount of epoxy along the edge to seal the adhesive in.