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[Motorman]

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[Balsa Butcher]

Don't have a pic but here's a description: It is a nicely machined round handle with a flat surface at one end. Protruding from the flat surface is a steel 1/4" shaft approximately 5/8" long. A circle of coarse sand paper is glued to this surface, cut a hole so it can fit over the shaft. This is inserted into the propeller hub. The tool is then rotated and sands a true face to the prop hub. As most props come stock with a 1/4" hole you will have to true them before drilling the hub out for a larger shaft. Simple, effective, a must have IMHO. Another brilliant tool from Lee's Machining is the Nose Ring Sander. You need this...take my word for it. Don't ask, just buy, you will wonder how you ever finished a model without it.

[Dan McEntee]

  Check out his web site, I believe he has pics of his offerings. I, too, am a fan of Jim's stuff.  Quality stuff that works.
   Type at you later,
   Dan McEntee

[john e. holliday]

Once you true up the hole, don't forget the check the pitch on the prop blades.   We did that with fibre glas props for racing.  True the face and then set pitch. 

[Phil Krankowski]

You might want to consider mounting the prop and using some kind of fixed measuring device (ruler rubber banded to the wing?) rotate the prop through to see if the tips are in the same plane instead of blindly trusting the bore of the hole.  Mark the hub as to which side gets reduced.  You probably need to take off material from the front and back of the propeller.

You will want to re-check the prop balance after altering the hub.

Phil

[Dan McEntee]

  If you are going to cut down a prop, Jim has a neat tool for marking them also. It works off the center hole and marks both blades exactly the same. Cut the blad a little long and sand down to the line , reshape and balance. Good for checking existing blade length against each other if you suspect the hole is off center, and I have seen that happen many times. The magnetic balancing stand that Great Planes offers, when modified with shorter connecting rods and used with their finger tip balancer instead, is very precise and helps detect misshapen center holes, and bad blades.
  Good luck and have fun,
   Dan McEntee