stunthanger.com
General control line discussion => Open Forum => Topic started by: Dick Pacini on February 18, 2014, 10:07:22 AM
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It was certainly a loss when Byron Barker passed away. I had intended to purchase a paint stand from him.
Can anyone post a pic of one of these stands and give some rough dimensions, tubing size, height, length of legs? I may try to fabricate my own.
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look on this post, I made my own paint stand with some simple items. The large wood base is heavy enough to make sure the model does tip over
http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?topic=34027.0
Fred
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With the losses of both Byron and Allen, is there anyone producing or selling the Barker paint stand? I had been thinking for a while about ordering one also.
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It is amazing just what we lose when a member of our fraternity passes........ all the contributions they made go along with them.
Someone SHOULD make the paint stands. Bullet proof, simple and easy to use. I have had mine since I did a product review as PAMPA Product Column writer... can't even exactly remember when that was!
BIG Bear
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If somebody could email me some pictures and dimensions, I could see if Jerry Day would be interested in producing some...when he isn't making Sprint Cars and Unlimited Hydroplane parts. He made one and used it to paint his profile Cardinal, but it's not readily adaptable to anything other than .46LA mounts. H^^ Steve
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If somebody could email me some pictures and dimensions, I could see if Jerry Day would be interested in producing some...when he isn't making Sprint Cars and Unlimited Hydroplane parts. He made one and used it to paint his profile Cardinal, but it's not readily adaptable to anything other than .46LA mounts. H^^ Steve
Others may be interested in producing a similar product. That info should be shared on this forum.
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I'll give a description, my camera, etc., are not available right now.
1" sq. (might be 3/4" sq.) upright ~38" high. Three short stubs, ~1 1/2" long, welded each to the front and each side for flat (to the ground) supports. The tubes for support slip over these and are drilled and tapped to allow removal (possibly a nut welded to the top).
On top, there is a piece of pipe with a machined steel "tongue" inserted. The pipe is drilled and tapped (or a nut welded to the top) which allows the tongue to turn 360*. The tongue is machined down to 1/2 its diameter then drilled and tapped to accept an aluminum or plywood plate that is mounted to the motor mounts.
This was before any electric stunters so no provision is made for those. Of course, some with good imaginations can come up with a solution for that.
BIG Bear
P.S. See my next post for CORRECT, measured, dimensions. This post was from memory, sorry.
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Bill, how long are the slip on supports?
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Bill, how long are the slip on supports?
Ok, here are corrections verified with a tape measure. ;D
Up right: 1" X 46" sq. tube. At the bottom there is a nut welded to the front with a hex head bolt to secure to the bottom brace.
Tongue support welded to top: 3" X 1"; 1" OD round pipe. There is a nut welded to the top and a 1/4" thumbscrew is used to clamp the tongue.
Tongue: 3/4" X 7" (OD) steel rod with a roll pin inserted about 4" from front. Front end has the diameter reduced by 1/2 to give a "shelf" for a motor mount adapter to mount to. There are two evenly spaced holes, drilled and tapped for #10 socket head cap screws.
Front Bottom Brace: 1" X 46" sq. steel tubing.
Bottom Cross Brace: 1" X 46" sq. steel tubing welded to the front bottom support, at a 90* angle. There is an upright stub of 3/4" sq., upright, to hold the "Upright".
The bottom supports remove from the upright.
It all looks like an automotive engine stand.
Just measured all this so it is correct for at least one of Byron's stands.
Bill
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It's a simple design and would be very easy to duplicate with access to the right materials and equipment. If anyone decides to produce them please don't overthink it, just copy it. ;D
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It's a simple design and would be very easy to duplicate with access to the right materials and equipment. If anyone decides to produce them please don't overthink it, just copy it.
Hi Wayne,
Anyone with a welder, grinder and a hack saw (metal cut off saw would be better! LOL!!) can make one.
BIG Bear
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Here are some pictures of the Byron Barker paint stand.
Mike
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More
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More
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One more
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I just heard back from Jerry Day. He says he'd be interested in making the paint stands, but couldn't open the WordPerfect file I made from Bill's description. So, I just now copied and pasted it straight into an email reply.
Does anybody know what the most recent price was, and shipping/pkg. cost, or how it was delivered to you...or maybe when the most recent ad was placed in SN, so's I can look it up? H^^ Steve
PS: I attached a picture of Jerry's very nice Cardinal. It's hanging on the wall, with a bit of dust on it...
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I have one he can copy. It's busy now, so it can't leave the premises for awhile.
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Steve if no one answers you, I have a price list around here somewhere that Byron sent me before he passed away. I will look tomorrow and see if I can find it and get back to you.
Mike
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Thanks, Mike! I think I'd let Jerry figure out how much they'll cost to make, then give him a comparison to what Byron charged. Knowing Jerry, he'd make a work of art with pretty welds and such, and then give them away too cheap! But I do like Ty's idea, and hope he can make a pictograph of his paint stand... ;) ;) ;) Steve
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I read with interest about these paint stands. Been there-done that. the first photo is my first building/painting fixture. I bought this one about forty years ago. It's kinda of cruddy looking with so much use and coats of paint, but still works fine. I think I paid about $30 for it and thought it was high at the time. It immediately demonstrated its worth when attached to my work bench for building. I used this both as a building and painting fixture. It held every airplane that I built or painted in all these years. About six months ago and I needed it on the bench for assembling a profile Bearcat and, despite endless searches, it was nowhere to be found.
Finally, I gave up, and had a new replacement made by my favorite machinist, Dirk Tollenaar. Again, it was a bit pricey ($50) but was very welcome to have a building fixture on my work bench. About the time I finished building the Bearcat, and posting the story about the loss of my original fixture, it came home. It seems that it had been "borrowed out" for a couple of years until my lost story was posted. What the heck, now I wont have to paint on the pretty one.
I can't emphasize the utility of these things. I was lost without mine. The additional photos show some of the many ways it supported my models for both building and painting. It spends days on the bench when building, minutes on the red cart when painting. I build and paint mask at my bench. Painting is done mostly tied to my red roll around cart, which doesn't show very well. It's also used on anything else that the fixture can be clamped on like the ladder which shows in one photo.
Al
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Steve just sent you a PM . Byron charged $85.00 plus shipping for the paint stand.
Mike
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Got it, Mike. I'll wait for Jerry to figure out how much he can make them (and hope it's less!), and ship them for. Shipping is getting VERY expensive these days...price of gas has a lot to do with that, of course. Some don't seem to understand the connection between the price of oil and the price of everything else. H^^ Steve
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While that is a nice stand,you can also get an engine stand from Harbor freight that will do the same thing. It is also on wheels and knocks down for storage. Its $45 - 20% with coupon.
http://www.harborfreight.com/750-lb-engine-stand-69887.html
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a bike repair stand works as well
http://www.roadbikeoutlet.com/bike-mechanic-adjustable-repair-stand-bicycle-rack.html?CAWELAID=1920421164&catargetid=1920643137&cadevice=c&%22cagpspn=pla%22&gclid=CKnm9Kra4rwCFfFDMgodN18ADQ
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I like the bike stand, it looks like it takes a 1" or so tube. The adapter would be easy to make. If it knocks down for storage that would be a plus.
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I like the bike stand, it looks like it takes a 1" or so tube. The adapter would be easy to make. If it knocks down for storage that would be a plus.
Peter,
On their web site (link from Reply #29), look to the right side of the page. There they show another stand that is perfect for your/our needs. It is light, 10 lbs., folds and retracts into a small package for storage, and has solid easily adjustable height and clamps. ..... I don't paint much, but I do have two bikes to maintain. I just ordered this aluminium version to meet both needs. ..... This will also be helpful in using film coverings. (can I say that here without getting into trouble??? ;-)
As someone mentioned, it would be easy to make a dowel/mount fitting to go into the units jaws to hold our models.
My shop is already way too crowded, I need stuff that folds into a small space for storage. My guess is that I'm not alone in having this problem? ;-)
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My shop is already way too crowded, I need stuff that folds into a small space for storage.
I found that even more effective is to lend the paint stand out. Not only does that reduce clutter, but it comes back with more paint on it, which helps resist corrosion. There is the downside of forgetting to whom it was lent, as in Al's case.
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The Byron Barker (and Ty's) paint stands will easily and quickly come apart and safely store on the bottom shelf.
I'm amazed that the Chinese-made Harbor Freight engine stand can be that cheap, shipped over here, distributed around the USA and sold for a profit. I have seen some pretty nice stuff out of China, but I'd also hate to drop a "Rat Motor" on my toe. I was also wondering if the wingtips would clear the forward leg. Maybe, maybe not. Still, it would perhaps be useful for other projects, like roasting a whole pig over an open campfar (sic). H^^ Steve