paint's

[Bootlegger]

what colors in the rustolium line are fuel proof?  in particular white..
                      thanks a lot

[Paul Wood]

I used Rustoleum for years with no fuel contamination issues.  But...I've read that the clear is not fuel proof.  I have never used the clear so I have to believe that is true.  Please note that I switched to Nelson's paint long before Rustoleum came out with the newer formulas.  I never had any problems with the old formula (which they still make), but some of the guys have found isolated problems with the new stuff.  The secret, and this is very important, is to let the paint dry at least a week before you touch the plane.  More than a week if you can.  For multi-color masking, less than a week between colors and you'll leave adhesive marks in the previous color.  Buy a can of the old formula, spray a test piece (over Rustoleum primer), let it cure a week and then fuel test it.  I used to swear by Rustoleum, but switched to Nelson's only to be able use a spray gun for my large R/C planes.  I'm tempted to go back to Rustoleum on my smaller U/C birds.

Paul

[Chuck Feldman]

Allen Brickhause  is the man to talk to about Rustoleum.  A friend of mine uses Ace Hardware  (rust proof) paint directly from the can and he brushes it on direct. It works fine. The can is small the cost is $5.00 per can.

[Bootlegger]

       Guy's I thank ya'll for the info, but how do I tell if it is the "old formula"  What do I look for??
                            Thanks again, Gil

[john e. holliday]

As I don't like the spray can paints from the hardware store, I bought a small can of grey to use on a plane.  For it to be fuel proof it must cure/dry for a couple of weeks.  I made a sample to test to see if I needed to clear coat as it had a slight sheen to it already.  10% nitro fuel didn't even faze it.

[Serge_Krauss]

Guys-

As we all know, the formulas keep changing. I don't know how often nor to which colors; so trial samples probably should be made and tested.

One point though that needs to be made again: this question has come up often; there's a lot of information in the archives, probably this one, but certainly that huge one. The last I remember, without going back to them myself, is that the metallics were definitely NOT fuel proof. I don't remember which others. I will be looking back into this myself soon. It's good to keep this input current, but wise to avoid or at least test any colors already found to be sensitive to nitro.

SK

[Andrew Borgogna]

I have been using Rustoleum for years and yes it is fuel proof to a point.  I hit it with some 35% fuel and it came off in sheets.  But with 15% and below it works great, and that's with all the solid colors I have used.  That includes green, red, light/dark blue, yellow, white and orange.  I agree it is best to give it a week to cure, I didn't do that with yellow and I did loose a little but it too eventually became fuel proof.  Regarding the clear and matalics I have no idea, never used them.  One last thing I recently tried Lustercote over Rustoleum and it work fine, there didn't seem to be any interaction problems with Lustercote over Rustoleum. 
Andy

[Paul Wood]

Bootlegger,

Here's the "old formula" I was referring to: http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=95.  This is the only Rustoleum I have ever used and never had a problem (15% nitro).  I've also had good results with Dupli-Color from Autozone.  Never had good results from Krylon.  Hope this helps.

Paul

[Bootlegger]

             Thank's Guy's I sure do appreciate the info. Picked some up today and the model is sprayed (white) I think that it will be alright, plan to let it dry for a week as per suggestions.
              Again thanks,

[Steve Fitton]

I used red rustoleum on a Super Chipmunk, and by 115 flights the paint was coming off in sheets.

[Dennis Moritz]

I've similar experiences to Steve.