NO Glue? Are you SERIOUS?

[Andre Ming]

First off, forget me using ACC-type adhesives. They're okay for field repairs... detest using them for airplane construction.

So the issue is: I have yet to find any solvent-based cement such as Sigment or Ambroid. (Ambroid is long gone, I suppose.)

ANY of you still using Sigment-type glue? IF so WHAT are you using and WHERE can I source?

I can't believe all the little things that keep rearing its head in an effort to thwart my return to C/L!

ANY input would be much appreciated.

Thanks.

Andre

[Dan McEntee]

    Yes, Ambroid is long gone except for those of us lucky enough to have some stashes of it. SIG-Ment is gone also as SIG is more or less out of that end of the business and will probably evolve into an ARF importer if anything. Some guys use DUCO House hold Cement as it is supposed to be very close to SIG-Ment. Others, like many of my son's free flight friends have been using fletching glue, like what is used to attach feathers to arrows in archery. That was another market for Ambroid as a lot of archery enthusiasts used it for fletching arrows, but after it's demise, some one came up with a replacement. There have been several threads about this in recent history with links and such but not hard to find with an internet search. You may just want to check a local archery range or shop.
  Type at you later,
   Dan McEntee

[Ed Carlaw]

Volare' Products sells an Ambroid type of cement which is cellulose based. Also if you have a sporting goods store that deals with archery fletching glue is cellulose based. That is what they use to glue the fledging feathers on the arrows. Also Duco cement is still available.

[Andre Ming]

Thank you very much Dan and Ed.

I found a tube of Duco at True Value and will give it a squirt to see if its sand-able.

I'm very interested in the flectching glue and have a couple links for same now.

Thanks again. Looks like I DO have options that will fill the bill for my "givens n' druthers".


Andre

[944_Jim]

Mr. Andre,
I'll also toss up the yellow wood glues as good. They take a bit to stick/get tacky, double-glue solid (especially if thinned and soaked in), a couple of days to fully dry, and are sand-able without making little "rubber eraser dust" after fully dried (about two days give or take, based on humidity).

[Andre Ming]

Thanks Jim.

On one of the facebook C/L groups I have joined, some really like Titebond 2.

Andre

[Dan McEntee]

Thanks Jim.

On one of the facebook C/L groups I have joined, some really like Titebond 2.

Andre

    Sometimes a question like glue can turn into an oil or spark plug thread on the old VINDURO list!!  Everyone has a favorite! I have some of everything because I have found some glues work better than others for certain applications. A trip to the Hardware store has you standing in front of a mind boggling array of products on the market today. Testors still makes their model airplane glue in the small tubes, but it's about 5 bucks for the small tube now.

  Type at you later,
   Dan McEntee

[Brett Buck]

Thanks Jim.

On one of the facebook C/L groups I have joined, some really like Titebond 2.

Andre

   If you want something like that, I prefer Titebond (1/original). I don't think you need the water resistance and it is more "rubbery" than the original.

   As noted, Duco cement is still around, and as far as I can tell UHU Hart is nearly the same as Duco and SIGMENT and easily available. I wouldn't ever recommend any of these for regular construction, if you want air-drying glue, Titebond is better and shrinks less. 

      I use cyanoacrylate and epoxy for almost everything.

     Brett

[Ken Culbertson]

Sitting around waiting for Ambroid to dry and hoping nothing warped is one of the things I definitely do not miss from "Back in the Day".  Now I use nothing but CA and Epoxy.  Some Titebond if I can't get a glue tube in there.  One thing CA does is force you to make clean tight-fitting joints which makes for a better airplane.  Keep an open mind.  I found out that there is not much today that is not better than it was.

Ken

[Leonard Bourel]

I agree with what Ken and Brett said in the last two posts CA and Epoxy  all the way and a bit of tite bond!

[john e. holliday]

Well as I'm retired and don't have that much room for planes I use Elmers glue and CA only for duick joints to hold until Elmers dries.  I use Epoxy for laminated joints as it has been proven that on profiles with ply on 1/2 inch fuse the Elmers does not dry all the through the joint for weeks and some times months.

[Jim Kraft]

  Since I am allergic to CA glues, I can only use them in a small amount in an open space. I have used both Titebond and Duco with success. Duco is the cement we all mix with dope for under cambered free flight wings when covering. Several coats on the under cambered ribs helps to glue the covering down securely.

[Ken Culbertson]

duick joints to hold until Elmers dries.

John, I may be so far out in left field that I don't even know the inning is over but I question the value of putting Titebond over a CA joint.  CA fills the grain on both sides of the joint then hardens into a single mass penetrating both pieces of wood.  What is left for the Titebond to stick to?  It also wants to penetrate the grain but it is already filled.  To me, double gluing over CA is just adding weight.  Now educate me why I am wrong.

Ken

[John Gluth]

mistake

[john e. holliday]

I don't use CA on every joint,  Just enough to hold things together so I can go over it with Elmers or Ambroid.

[Dave Harmon]

My experience with different glues is similar to most of you but I have had sanding problems with Titebond....ie...it snots up and will not sand clean and hard.
Some time ago I changed to Elmer's Carpenter's glue that sands like Ambroid.
It gets tacky quickly when spread out slightly....I use veterinary syringes to apply it in small amounts then run a finger through it to smooth out the bead. Then smooth on a small amount to a wing rib, then lay down the planking and you still have time to adjust the placement. Wipe up the excess with a wet paper towel.
Animal syringes around here are sold in bags of 5 for $1.50....I like the style that has a short outlet rather than the curved style.
I use a bit of CA to hold the wood in place if necessary.
For edge gluing 1/16" sheet I still use Ambroid....I got lucky and found a display carton of large tubes at Hobby Town and bought them all....I don't use it for general construction anymore.
However....it is not the same stuff as it used to be. It is much thinner and runny....don't tip the tube nose down or the glue will get all over the place. Of course it sands very clean which it what I bought it for....nothing worse than a gnarly glue line.
Oh....I also put a line of Ambroid under my nose to get me into the building mood!!!!

[Dave Harmon]

Duco is the cement we all mix with dope for under cambered free flight wings when covering.
Several coats on the under cambered ribs helps to glue the covering down securely.

Hi Jim.....I had been wondering about this for quite awhile.....how much Duco is added to the dope?
I still use silkspan and dope occasionally and I think adding some glue would be a good thing.

[Andre Ming]

Quick update:

Just closed a deal on 7 unopened 4 oz tubes of Sig-ment at $6 each. Given my (lack) of airplane productivity... that ought to last my remaining lifetime! (Just received the tracking # for the shipment.)

Later I may try the Volare Products "Am-Droid" (provided it isn't too thin)... but the above purchase has my needs covered for the immediate future.

Andre