Author Topic: Green Paint for Johnson .35 (Read 3186 times)

Bill Little · « **on:** November 30, 2011, 06:06:00 PM »

OK, All, I am in need of suggestions as to what type of paint to redo the Johnson .35 I got from Ed Ruane. It was bright green like the one in the separate thread here in the open section,

I want to be able to run the engine so I am just not sure of what type of paint to use. I have some bright green acrylic lacquer that is Candy Green and will closely resemble the Johnson .35 shown.

Thanks!
Big Bear

Avaiojet · « **Reply #1 on:** November 30, 2011, 06:14:36 PM »

Bill,

I believe you may need a heat resistance paint seeing you're going to run it.

"Eastwoods" sells all kinds of products for the car enthusiasts. May not have what you want, but I do know they sell paint. All kinds. Their market place is the Restoration and Hot Rod guys.

I used to buy my lead from them. Lead for metalwork. Here's the link. Good luck.

CB

http://www.eastwood.com/?srccode=ga200220&gclid=CMuGl4PY36wCFZJS7AodbAjeoQ

EddyR · « **Reply #2 on:** November 30, 2011, 06:38:06 PM »

Bill look in the exhaust and see if that piston is domed not flat. If it is it is a very early Johnson. Maybe one of the first 100 built. The .29 I sold to George was the 12 th .29 motor built wirh the Johnson name on it. Only four head bolts. Yours has six. I never had the head off it.
Ed

Don Hutchinson AMA5402 · « **Reply #3 on:** November 30, 2011, 07:03:05 PM »

I repainted my Orwick 29 with butyrate dope mixed to be very close in color to the original paint on my 64. Flew it for years, just repainted it and this time I shot a coat of primer on first as the dope alone would chip off (exactly the same way as the original Orwick paint jobs). Heat was never a problem. I was under the impression that Henry Orwick used a stock car paint on his, probably an acrylic lacquer back then.
Don

Bill Little · « **Reply #4 on:** November 30, 2011, 07:16:01 PM »

Quote from: Ed Ruane on November 30, 2011, 06:38:06 PM

Bill look in the exhaust and see if that piston is domed not flat. If it is it is a very early Johnson. Maybe one of the first 100 built. The .29 I sold to George was the 12 th .29 motor built wirh the Johnson name on it. Only four head bolts. Yours has six. I never had the head off it.
Ed

Hi Ed,

Looks like it is a flat top piston.

Bill

Bill Little · « **Reply #5 on:** November 30, 2011, 07:17:52 PM »

Quote from: Don Hutchinson AMA5402 on November 30, 2011, 07:03:05 PM

I repainted my Orwick 29 with butyrate dope mixed to be very close in color to the original paint on my 64. Flew it for years, just repainted it and this time I shot a coat of primer on first as the dope alone would chip off (exactly the same way as the original Orwick paint jobs). Heat was never a problem. I was under the impression that Henry Orwick used a stock car paint on his, probably an acrylic lacquer back then.
Don

Thanks, Don. I will polish up the case and then spray some Candy Green from HOK.

Bill

Jim Kraft · « **Reply #6 on:** December 08, 2011, 08:36:48 AM »

I am not sure that the heat resistant engine paints are the way to go. I have used them to repaint McCoy Red Heads, and the heat does not hurt them, but the fuel sure does. I have thought about trying either enamel or maybe lacquer or dope like Don said. The black I used on a few Ohlsson's seems to be holding up pretty well. My Orwick 64 is one of the late ones built by Orwick that still has most of the original smooth green paint. But I do fly it quite a bit and I am sure it will need repainting in the future, so I am interested in what you guys come up with that works.

Bill Little · « **Reply #7 on:** December 08, 2011, 12:04:39 PM »

Well, the "Green" is a moot point. The one I have is a newer one and was never green (6 bolt head).

I have painted a Fox .35 and a Veco .19 BB with high temp brake caliper red which is oil, chemical, resistant.

Big Bear

Avaiojet · « **Reply #8 on:** December 08, 2011, 07:46:13 PM »

Quote from: Bill Little on December 08, 2011, 12:04:39 PM

Well, the "Green" is a moot point. The one I have is a newer one and was never green (6 bolt head).I have painted a Fox .35 and a Veco .19 BB with high temp brake caliper red which is oil, chemical, resistant.
Big Bear

Bill,

Did you scratch up the aluminum or prep with an acid etch? Before you painted?

CB

Bill Little · « **Reply #9 on:** December 09, 2011, 01:04:46 PM »

Quote from: Avaiojet on December 08, 2011, 07:46:13 PM

Bill,

Did you scratch up the aluminum or prep with an acid etch? Before you painted?

CB

HI CB,

I did a soaking in boiling water with dishwasher detergent (not dishWASHING) before and then cleaned with acetone, which worked just fine.

Bill

jim ivey · « **Reply #10 on:** December 10, 2011, 03:31:21 PM »

bill it was a baked on enamal. Sorry i don't remember who did it. The green would bleach out. maybe anilin dye. then you would have a clear-case which we never produced as a clear-case. I bet if you contact tony nacaratto he might know. Pee wee is a genius and has a great memory.

Bill Little · « **Reply #11 on:** December 11, 2011, 08:38:58 AM »

Quote from: jim ivey on December 10, 2011, 03:31:21 PM

bill it was a baked on enamal. Sorry i don't remember who did it. The green would bleach out. maybe anilin dye. then you would have a clear-case which we never produced as a clear-case. I bet if you contact tony nacaratto he might know. Pee wee is a genius and has a great memory.

Hi Jim,

Thanks for the info, but this one is off the table. It is a later version which was not green so I am not going to do it.

Bill

jim ivey · « **Reply #12 on:** December 12, 2011, 03:40:36 AM »

the greencases were all sand castings. inly 35s no other sizes. In 50 plus years there are a lot of fakes I'm sure. jim

John Stiles · « **Reply #13 on:** December 12, 2011, 04:33:07 AM »

Quote from: Bill Little on December 11, 2011, 08:38:58 AM

Hi Jim,

Thanks for the info, but this one is off the table. It is a later version which was not green so I am not going to do it.

Bill

Good choice......as far as not painting that one.........I been thinking about trying "powder-coat"; you spray it on then bake it in the oven. Mama may not like the idea,

so I'm looking for a small electric oven for outside the house.

Bill Little · « **Reply #14 on:** December 12, 2011, 04:45:16 AM »

Quote from: John Stiles on December 12, 2011, 04:33:07 AM

Good choice......as far as not painting that one.........I been thinking about trying "powder-coat"; you spray it on then bake it in the oven. Mama may not like the idea, so I'm looking for a small electric oven for outside the house.

Yeah we powder coat some of the race car parts, but it can cause fitment issues if you are not careful.

Big Bear

John Stiles · « **Reply #15 on:** December 12, 2011, 05:20:30 AM »

Quote from: Bill Little on December 12, 2011, 04:45:16 AM

Yeah we powder coat some of the race car parts, but it can cause fitment issues if you are not careful.

Big Bear

Yup....that's the sticky part....don't want it on the head/cyl. mating surfaces...or the crank housing/cover...exhaust port either.

I'd try the anodizing trick, but I don't know if I could get together everything on the list.

John Stiles · « **Reply #16 on:** December 12, 2011, 05:24:52 AM »

I wonder if powder coating metal tanks could work, or would it melt the solder joints?

Andrew Tinsley · « **Reply #17 on:** December 12, 2011, 06:53:40 AM »

Hi John,
I tried powder coating my wife's bicycle, everthing went fine until the chain guard. That was soldered together and guess what.

Andrew.

jim ivey · « **Reply #18 on:** December 12, 2011, 08:21:41 AM »

feen spotwielded since before iwas a kid, soldered indeed! powder coat may be what was done, but it would still need clear epoxy to make it shiney like that.

john e. holliday · « **Reply #19 on:** December 12, 2011, 08:53:42 AM »

How do the guys on the bike shows get the powder coat to come out shiny out of the booth???

Bill Little · « **Reply #20 on:** December 12, 2011, 09:45:27 AM »

Quote from: john e. holliday on December 12, 2011, 08:53:42 AM

How do the guys on the bike shows get the powder coat to come out shiny out of the booth???

Hi Doc,

As I am sure you know, he gloss or flat finish is an outcome of the type of powder used. Most of all I have seen was very glossy.

Big Bear

Scott Hartford · « **Reply #21 on:** December 12, 2011, 12:51:38 PM »

For engine painting try Duracoat. It was made for firearms and is the most durable finish I have found and comes in small bottles and is applied with an airbrush. Lots of colors too. I have used it on guns and engines and it holds up great!