News:


  • April 18, 2024, 09:38:52 AM

Login with username, password and session length

Author Topic: OS .25 LA vs. FP  (Read 4255 times)

Offline Dennis Leonhardi

  • 24 supporter
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • *
  • Posts: 1777
    • AirClassix on eBay
OS .25 LA vs. FP
« on: April 26, 2022, 09:11:25 AM »
Lots of folks here report using the OS FP .25 on some of the older "Fox .35 Stunt type" models like the Flite Streak and Ringmaster.  How does the OS LA .25 compare in power?

Thanks!
Think for yourself !  XXX might win the Nats, be an expert on designing, building, finishing, flying, tuning engines - but you might not wanna take tax advice from him.  Or consider his views on the climate to be fact ...

Online Dan McEntee

  • 23 supporter
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • *
  • Posts: 6856
Re: OS .25 LA vs. FP
« Reply #1 on: April 26, 2022, 09:34:25 AM »
  I have flown them both quite a bit and I give the nod to the FP for more usable power. My biggest use was on a SIG Primary Force ARF that I built up exactly according to the instruction which call out the LA.25 for power. While it would fly the airplane satisfactorily, it was right at it's limit in less than perfect conditions. The FP gave it a little more when the winds got up. I used pretty much the same props on both and usually was a n APC 10-4. I have a couple of Ringmasters I have used them on and it is always easier to get an LA dialed in than an FP.25
   Type at you later,
    Dan McEntee 
AMA 28784
EAA  1038824
AMA 480405 (American Motorcyclist Association)

Offline Dwayne Donnelly

  • 22 supporter
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Captain
  • *
  • Posts: 570
  • Balsa Beavers Toronto Canada
Re: OS .25 LA vs. FP
« Reply #2 on: April 26, 2022, 09:34:40 AM »
Flight Streak LA 25 is about one of the best combos for a day of fun flying.  y1 #^
My purpose in life is to serve as a warning to others.

Offline Motorman

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • ******
  • Posts: 3257
Re: OS .25 LA vs. FP
« Reply #3 on: April 26, 2022, 10:03:55 AM »
Both can be modified for more power without losing the stuntability.

Motorman 8)

Offline Brett Buck

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • ******
  • Posts: 13732
Re: OS .25 LA vs. FP
« Reply #4 on: April 26, 2022, 10:32:43 AM »
Both can be modified for more power without losing the stuntability.

    Both should be LEFT ALONE unless there is a definable problem, the "new" 25LA being the nearest thing to a "free lunch" that I have ever seen in stunt. You literally do nothing except take it out of the box and bolt it to an airplane.

      Brett

Offline Brett Buck

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • ******
  • Posts: 13732
Re: OS .25 LA vs. FP
« Reply #5 on: April 26, 2022, 10:57:18 AM »
Lots of folks here report using the OS FP .25 on some of the older "Fox .35 Stunt type" models like the Flite Streak and Ringmaster.  How does the OS LA .25 compare in power?

   Both have much more power, and are much more effective stunt engines on these types of airplanes than a Fox 35. The 25FP is substantially more powerful than the "new" 25LA and *far too much* for a Ringmaster, unless you are willing/able to depitch your props down to 3.5-3.75. That's how Jim Aron tamed the 20FP on his Ringmaster, it was far, far, too fast using a stock 20FP and an APC 9-4 when the engine was running correctly - 3.8 seconds/lap! You want to fly it pretty fast, but not THAT fast.

    We have had more than a few problems with the 25FP controlling the speed for airplanes as small as a Flite Streak, Skyray 35, Coyote, because the engine is just a touch too much for those airplanes. What we found was that it would "home in" in a particular speed, which was always a bit too fast no matter how we set the needle - just like a 40FP, just less so. The 20FP is a better match and you could get that to regulate the speed better on these airplanes.

  The 25FP is more suited to slightly larger and more draggy airplanes like the Twister, Nobler, etc. I recall Pat Johnston's Green Box Nobler that still went low-mid 4 second laps with a 25FP even with a reduced venturi.

    The 25LA is not as powerful but has better handling characteristics than the 25FP for this size airplane, as good as the 20FP and the "new" 25LA is a bit more powerful. This is perfectly matched to a Flite Streak, Skyray 35, and those type models and still crazy overkill for a Ringmaster.

   I refer you to the extensive descriptions of how to run it in these airplanes including some epic rants about people "improving" it to death. As noted, the "new" 25LA is ideally suited to a Flite Streak or similar, it's a complete no-brainer - use it stock including the muffler, use an APC 9-4, flip and fly.

    Brett

Offline aj bagg

  • 23 supporter
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Ensign
  • *
  • Posts: 25
Re: OS .25 LA vs. FP
« Reply #6 on: April 26, 2022, 11:25:37 AM »
I fly these motors alot and in my humble opinion the APC 9.3 x 3 prop is by far the magic prop for those planes. Brett and Dan will always give great advice, never steering you wrong, but in this case, I wonder if they ever tried one of these props. I never would have but I had installed one for bench run to let the motor rev a little higher while I was adjusting the length of a pipe on an OS 20 fp powered Skyray w/flaps and forgot to change back to the 9 x 4 before flying the plane. Turned out to be the best flight ever for this plane that had hundreds of flights before. This 9.3 x 3 APC prop worked better for me on all five of the running planes I have with these motors, OS 20 fp, and 25 fp & la.

Offline Brett Buck

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • ******
  • Posts: 13732
Re: OS .25 LA vs. FP
« Reply #7 on: April 26, 2022, 11:45:42 AM »
I fly these motors alot and in my humble opinion the APC 9.3 x 3 prop is by far the magic prop for those planes. Brett and Dan will always give great advice, never steering you wrong, but in this case, I wonder if they ever tried one of these props.

   I have tried that prop and it also works well, particularly in cases where it is otherwise too fast. Note that it really isn't 3" of pitch - it more like 3.75. That slows these edge cases down just enough to be tolerable. The one down side I found with it is that all those I had were wildly out of balance, and the GRP doesn't sand too easily.

     Brett

Offline Martin Quartim

  • 22 supporter
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Captain
  • *
  • Posts: 802
    • StuntHobby
Re: OS .25 LA vs. FP
« Reply #8 on: April 26, 2022, 04:39:47 PM »
I have never used any OS 2 stroke engine and I canīt understand why the heck you canīt slow down a 25FP using a smaller venturi, less nitro  or a exhaust restriction to get it working mighty well with a RingMaster. 

Why would the 25FP home in a certain power or speed using different venturi sizes boggles my mind.

I can tune an Enya SS30, which is much stronger than a 25FP (also lighter than OS 20 and 25) to fly a RingMaster with very good speed control faster or slower, just adjusting the needle to a more or less wet 2-2-2. If more power change is needed, just replacing the venturi, nitro % or exhaust restriction works exactly as predicted.

Martin
Old Enya's never die, they just run stronger!

https://www.youtube.com/user/martinSOLO

Offline Brett Buck

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • ******
  • Posts: 13732
Re: OS .25 LA vs. FP
« Reply #9 on: April 26, 2022, 05:37:47 PM »
I have never used any OS 2 stroke engine and I canīt understand why the heck you canīt slow down a 25FP using a smaller venturi, less nitro  or a exhaust restriction to get it working mighty well with a RingMaster. 

   You can, with a smaller venturi. It comes with the venturi it comes with, not a smaller one.


Quote
I can tune an Enya SS30, which is much stronger than a 25FP (also lighter than OS 20 and 25) to fly a RingMaster with very good speed control faster or slower, just adjusting the needle to a more or less wet 2-2-2. If more power change is needed, just replacing the venturi, nitro % or exhaust restriction works exactly as predicted.

  So, it goes slower, meaning it is less powerful.

     What size venturi does it come with?

    Brett

Offline Martin Quartim

  • 22 supporter
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Captain
  • *
  • Posts: 802
    • StuntHobby
Re: OS .25 LA vs. FP
« Reply #10 on: April 26, 2022, 07:07:43 PM »
   You can, with a smaller venturi. It comes with the venturi it comes with, not a smaller one.


  So, it goes slower, meaning it is less powerful.

     What size venturi does it come with?

    Brett

I am glad to hear that, I was under the impression no one could ever use a 0S 25FP with a Ringmaster!

There is always the old panty-hose trick when there are no optional venturis from the mfg. Also it is amazing how much power an exhaust deflector can rob from the engine. I can fine tune my engine just by cutting a portion of the exhaust deflector.

It has been a while and I am not 100% sure if the Enya SS30/SS25 comes with a 6.0 or  6.5mm venturi from factory. Enya makes optional venturis for these engines in increments of .5mm from 6.0mm to 8.0mm.

Martin


Old Enya's never die, they just run stronger!

https://www.youtube.com/user/martinSOLO

Offline Mike Griffin

  • 2018 Supporter
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • *
  • Posts: 2760
Re: OS .25 LA vs. FP
« Reply #11 on: April 26, 2022, 07:31:55 PM »
    Both should be LEFT ALONE unless there is a definable problem, the "new" 25LA being the nearest thing to a "free lunch" that I have ever seen in stunt. You literally do nothing except take it out of the box and bolt it to an airplane.

      Brett

Having used this engine more times than I can count, no truer words were ever spoken about it.  The 20 FP on my Skyray is the closest thing to perfection to me, I have ever flown.  Thank you Brett for that advice years ago.

Mike
« Last Edit: April 26, 2022, 09:05:27 PM by Mike Griffin »

Offline redout

  • 24 supporter
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Lieutenant
  • *
  • Posts: 71
Re: OS .25 LA vs. FP
« Reply #12 on: April 26, 2022, 07:44:12 PM »
I have never used any OS 2 stroke engine and I canīt understand why the heck you canīt slow down a 25FP using a smaller venturi, less nitro  or a exhaust restriction to get it working mighty well with a RingMaster. 

Why would the 25FP home in a certain power or speed using different venturi sizes boggles my mind.

I can tune an Enya SS30, which is much stronger than a 25FP (also lighter than OS 20 and 25) to fly a RingMaster with very good speed control faster or slower, just adjusting the needle to a more or less wet 2-2-2. If more power change is needed, just replacing the venturi, nitro % or exhaust restriction works exactly as predicted.

Martin

To enable a "better fit" of a larger than ideal engine to an aircraft, I understand that using a smaller venturi will slow the engine but isn't this running the engine out of it's designed highest efficiency rpm zone with possible adverse effects on fuel consumption ( and maybe other problems ) ?

Offline aj bagg

  • 23 supporter
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Ensign
  • *
  • Posts: 25
Re: OS .25 LA vs. FP
« Reply #13 on: April 26, 2022, 07:54:21 PM »
   quote from Brett
  "Note that it really isn't 3" of pitch - it more like 3.75. That slows these edge cases down just enough to be tolerable. The one down side I found with it is that all those I had were wildly out of balance, and the GRP doesn't sand too easily."

I never measured the pitch and that explains things! Thankyou. I also found that some of the APC props are out of balance when used with the molded 1/4" hole. I won't use APC's without pressing in a precision bushing and running a .251 reamer through from the bushed side. I found several of these APC props that when reamed in this manner removed a several thousandths bite off one side of the non-precision 1/4" hole while not touching the other, but were very close to balancing locating from the precision counterbore.

AJ 


Offline Martin Quartim

  • 22 supporter
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Captain
  • *
  • Posts: 802
    • StuntHobby
Re: OS .25 LA vs. FP
« Reply #14 on: April 26, 2022, 08:11:14 PM »
To enable a "better fit" of a larger than ideal engine to an aircraft, I understand that using a smaller venturi will slow the engine but isn't this running the engine out of it's designed highest efficiency rpm zone with possible adverse effects on fuel consumption ( and maybe other problems ) ?

the 25fp is the same size of the 20fp, it is lighter and the power difference between them is not that much. Of course based on Brett, if you have a choice get a 20fp. My point was why canīt  some one tune  25fp to work on a RM if I can do it quite well with a .30 engine. There are better engines for RM, like the BRodak 25, but not so easy to find,  and if you built light enough,  a lighter .15 engine is even better, which is what a plan to do on my next ringmaster S-1.

Martin
Old Enya's never die, they just run stronger!

https://www.youtube.com/user/martinSOLO

Offline Mike Scholtes

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • ******
  • Posts: 1192
Re: OS .25 LA vs. FP
« Reply #15 on: April 26, 2022, 08:14:58 PM »
I suspect that the post about "how do I modify my FP20 " was just trolling to trigger Brett into giving more advice about the FP20! I have thought about doing it myself but not sure how it would go over.

The (stock!!) FP20 on my SkyTumi (Skyray wing, Sakitumi 25 fuse and tail) turns 4.8 sec laps on 60' .015 lines, too fast. Using 9-4 APC, 3-oz metal tank on uniflow, Powermaster fuel. I have tried running both with open uniflow, and muffler pressure to uniflow line, always with overflow line plugged. The APC 9.3 x "3" prop sounds promising.

Brett in other posts on the FP20 advocates for a plastic clunk tank run not as uniflow, just suction. Brett, do you believe there is a problem using a metal tank, or at least on uniflow on the FP20 (and by extension the LA25)?

BTW I have an Enya SS30-S that proved to be too much motor for this model, even with factory venturi insert in place. I re-engined it for the FP20. My FP20 is the later model with I think aluminum piston. Not iron in steel sleeve (as the Enya is).

Offline wwwarbird

  • 2016 supporter
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • *
  • Posts: 7977
  • Welcome to the Stunt Hanger.
Re: OS .25 LA vs. FP
« Reply #16 on: April 26, 2022, 08:25:35 PM »
Flight Streak LA 25 is about one of the best combos for a day of fun flying.  y1 #^

 Yep.  y1
Narrowly averting disaster since 1964! 

Wayne Willey
Albert Lea, MN U.S.A. IC C/L Aircraft Modeler, Ex AMA member

Offline wwwarbird

  • 2016 supporter
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • *
  • Posts: 7977
  • Welcome to the Stunt Hanger.
Re: OS .25 LA vs. FP
« Reply #17 on: April 26, 2022, 08:27:00 PM »
    Both should be LEFT ALONE unless there is a definable problem, the "new" 25LA being the nearest thing to a "free lunch" that I have ever seen in stunt. You literally do nothing except take it out of the box and bolt it to an airplane.

      Brett

 Possibly the best advice on the forum.  y1
Narrowly averting disaster since 1964! 

Wayne Willey
Albert Lea, MN U.S.A. IC C/L Aircraft Modeler, Ex AMA member

Offline Martin Quartim

  • 22 supporter
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Captain
  • *
  • Posts: 802
    • StuntHobby
Re: OS .25 LA vs. FP
« Reply #18 on: April 26, 2022, 10:38:39 PM »
I suspect that the post about "how do I modify my FP20 " was just trolling to trigger Brett into giving more advice about the FP20! I have thought about doing it myself but not sure how it would go over.

The (stock!!) FP20 on my SkyTumi (Skyray wing, Sakitumi 25 fuse and tail) turns 4.8 sec laps on 60' .015 lines, too fast. Using 9-4 APC, 3-oz metal tank on uniflow, Powermaster fuel. I have tried running both with open uniflow, and muffler pressure to uniflow line, always with overflow line plugged. The APC 9.3 x "3" prop sounds promising.

Brett in other posts on the FP20 advocates for a plastic clunk tank run not as uniflow, just suction. Brett, do you believe there is a problem using a metal tank, or at least on uniflow on the FP20 (and by extension the LA25)?

BTW I have an Enya SS30-S that proved to be too much motor for this model, even with factory venturi insert in place. I re-engined it for the FP20. My FP20 is the later model with I think aluminum piston. Not iron in steel sleeve (as the Enya is).

To me  it does not make sense to say "too much motor" I can understand when people say this motor is too big and it wont fit , or it is too heavy, or it is tooo expensive  :) 
Replacing an engine for a lighter one that can do the job is a positive thing, but replacing with an engine that is heavier and has less cuīs makes no sense at all to me.

A stronger motor that has good behavior is more desirable if the weight, size, price is not an issue. The Enya SS30 is lighter than OS 20/25FP  so it makes no sense to me replacing it with an 20FP, as I learned that a stronger motor allows me to fly with better speed control and slower, not faster!

I believe with more Torque (bigger cuīs)  the less the speed will vary when flying, which is what we want, isnīt it? No wonder the most avid flyers went up to a .75 to fly models that can fly with a good .40!

May be I am making a lot of wrong assumptions here, so please correct if I am wrong. No matter how strong your engine is, it will slowdown during the corner so you have to enter the corner with such a speed that your plane will not slow down to a stall . With a stronger engine the speed loss is less, there for you can enter the corner at a slower speed. The stronger engine will also accelerate quicker to your cursing speed.  The stronger the engine the tighter you can pull a corner and it will handle better in windy conditions.

Did you try an APC 10.5x4.5 with your Enya SS30? This prop works amazingly well with this engine.  Look how slow I fly my friendīs reduced Pathfinder with 530sq wing and less than 35oz.  I doubt an OS 20fp  can fly that slow and keep the speed so the lines are kept with good tension every where.



Martin
Old Enya's never die, they just run stronger!

https://www.youtube.com/user/martinSOLO

Offline Mike Scholtes

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • ******
  • Posts: 1192
Re: OS .25 LA vs. FP
« Reply #19 on: April 26, 2022, 11:20:48 PM »
The LA25 and Enya SS30-S with their stock mufflers weigh almost exactly the same. I meant the Enya when run at the RPM it is designed to run at produces more power than can be absorbed by a small model like a Skyray. Result is speed above what the Skyray performs best at. Tried several props. I love Enya engines and have several of them.

Offline Gary Dowler

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • ******
  • Posts: 1017
Re: OS .25 LA vs. FP
« Reply #20 on: May 01, 2022, 02:48:14 PM »
My first Shoestring, I replaced the Fox 35 with a 20FP, at Brett's suggestion.  Never regretted it!  Power is fantastic, runs are extremely consistent, and they use less fuel to boot!  After that plane was destroyed when a weed snagged my up line on takeoff, I built a pair of slightly freelance Shoestrings  with longer fuse, larger H stab/elevator, emphasis on lighter weight (1/16th ply instead of 1/8,etc) 4" reversed bellcrank, adjustable leadouts, CF pushrod, hollow block wingtips.  They came out at 24oz ready to fly (original was about 33oz).  Flew the pattern with one of them in front of Paul.  Those 20FP's do everything you could need done with these planes!  Now Im building a light weight Ringmaster (aiming for 19oz) and it will have a 15FP.


Gary
Profanity is the crutch of the illiterate mind

Offline Brett Buck

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • ******
  • Posts: 13732
Re: OS .25 LA vs. FP
« Reply #21 on: May 01, 2022, 03:29:22 PM »
To me  it does not make sense to say "too much motor" I can understand when people say this motor is too big and it wont fit , or it is too heavy, or it is tooo expensive  :) 

    It makes sense to me, because of this scenario:

   They put on a stock, too-powerful engine, and it goes too fast to deal  with conventional props.
   They tried to use the needle as a throttle and needle it down. Slows down on the ground - at some point in the flight, it speeds back up where it was before
   They run to the internet and say *my engine runs away, what do I do?!!!*
   Some keyboard engine expert starts telling them all the things they can do to "fix" it:
 
  • Drill a hole in it and replace the spraybar
  • Grind down the intake port to "reduce the blowdown"
  • find out it is "overcompressed", which is apparently the worst and far most common problem with all "RC engines", and throw in a handful of head gaskets
  • ditch the "ridiculous heavy muffler" for a really light tongue muffler
  • Send it to "local engine expert" and have them "fix" it for you
 
   After which, you have the typical ruined engine, that can't be used or easily fixed to run properly, to be used on a more appropriate airplane.

    If you think all that is some sort of fantastical impossible scenario - this has been the *norm* since the 40FP came out. All to "fix" something that was not broken in the first place, just misapplied due to ignorance or "common knowledge" that is 99.44% complete BS.

     If the Enya 30 puts out appropriate power for the airplane, swell, I wouldn't know because I haven't tried it - since I can't find and at this point, don't care to find, a CL version of it. If it goes too fast, stock, it is too powerful, by the definition of power. If it is not too fast it is not as powerful as a 25FP.

    If you have to make custom venturis, it's already disqualified for my purposes, because *a large part of the problem I am trying to solve it **keeping engines out of the hands of reworkers and engine experts** or giving people the notion that you need to start out modifying engines as their first step, or even taking them apart and "improving" them, when there are good alternatives that don't require that.

   To me, keeping it away from every guy who thinks they know how to "fix" engines, that "you can never have too much power" or get "stunt runs" is JOB #1, and the greatest service I can provide to modelers.

       Brett

Offline Dennis Leonhardi

  • 24 supporter
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • *
  • Posts: 1777
    • AirClassix on eBay
Re: OS .25 LA vs. FP
« Reply #22 on: May 01, 2022, 04:32:33 PM »
... To me, keeping it away from every guy who thinks they know how to "fix" engines, that "you can never have too much power" or get "stunt runs" is JOB #1, and the greatest service I can provide to modelers ...
       Brett

 y1 y1 y1

In my own 60 years of running engines, I've seen many reworks by "engine experts" that prompt me to ask myself: should I laugh out loud, or just shake my head?  In my years in the research lab, we reminded ourselves often "You can't make a silk purse out of a sow's ear".  The Fox 35 Stunt engine wasn't designed to set records in Class B Speed ...

Thanks for ALL the responses, guys!

Dennis
Think for yourself !  XXX might win the Nats, be an expert on designing, building, finishing, flying, tuning engines - but you might not wanna take tax advice from him.  Or consider his views on the climate to be fact ...

Offline Motorman

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • ******
  • Posts: 3257
Re: OS .25 LA vs. FP
« Reply #23 on: May 02, 2022, 07:47:03 AM »
Of course there are some box stock engine/airplane combos that are a match made in heaven others not so much. The Fox 35 certainly has had many upgrades from expert engine men, even some from the factory. Not everyone is a fool. There are people that know how to tune an engine to a purpose when needed. Certainly the Brian Gardner ABC sets have met with rave reviews. https://stunthanger.com/smf/open-forum/brian-gardner-la-25-abc-sets/


6. Compression: Setting the correct compression for you motor isn’t a simple thing and will vary with nitro and prop size. Try to set the compression so when your engine hits into a 2 stroke it doesn’t come on too hard or too soft. This will work in conjunction with nitro and venturie size. Generally you will use higher compression for low nitro and lower the compression when using higher nitro fuels.
7. Venturi : Venturi size is one of the keys to get a proper switching 4-2, while not coming on too hard or too soft or too late or too early. If you are constantly accelerating too much when your engine cycles you may need to go down on venturi size. If you are not cycling much or have too soft of a break or a late break , you may need to open the venturi up a size or 2. This will work in direct relationship to nitro and compression.

These are just basic suggestion to help you tune your engine, and by no means covers it all. There are literally thousands of engine setups that would take volumes to cover.

Randy Smith
« Last Edit: May 02, 2022, 08:13:43 AM by Motorman »

Offline Brett Buck

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • ******
  • Posts: 13732
Re: OS .25 LA vs. FP
« Reply #24 on: May 02, 2022, 10:21:42 AM »
Of course there are some box stock engine/airplane combos that are a match made in heaven others not so much.

   That's exactly right. What *I* am trying to do is to find those combinations, and try to advise people to use those in appropriate situations (like this thread which asked a very specific question with combinations we have extensively tested).

   I would have to beg to differ with some of the rest of it, there is one significant modification desirable on the Fox 35 - the bypass stuffer - and that came from not one of the "drill this and grind that" engine modifiers, but retired  NASA engineer and long-time Top 20 pilot Frank Williams. He is also responsible for some other true breakthroughs, including the spigot venturi. Larry Foster does great work, too, but he is trying to put the engines back to stock with the only real modification higher compression in diametric opposition to the "general wisdom" that holds that all engines are "dangerously overcompressed" and need head gaskets. Similarly, Brian Gardner is fixing long-acknowledge problems by applying advanced techniques. For example, the one thing actually wrong with the ST46, particularly the last few runs of them, was hopeless ring issues, leading to weak performance at the best of times, and a random number generator at the worst. Brian fixed that completely. The engine is still effectively obsolete, but it addressed the one fixable flaw with it for those using it in classic (it timed out of Nostalgia 30 a few years ago).

   I again emphasize that *I am not accusing anyone of setting out to commit sabotage*, I am absolutely sure (because I know of lot of these guys) they are not, and are just sure they found the "trick" and are helping their fellow modelers. Many of the are great guys trying to help others, just like the rest of stunt fliers. But in the vast, vast majority of cases, it might as well be sabotage.

    A typical scenario is as described above - a sequence of events that I have seen over and over and over, and also, I have been faced with trying to resolve at a contest or practice field somewhere. Frequently it ends with "go get stock parts" (if possible), sorry you drove all the way to Oregon and didn't get in any decent flights".

      It all started with people having no idea how best to run the 40FSR, became a common/nearly universal practice with the 40FP, and is now used to turn out 46LAs (which performs exceptionally well stock) that have less power than a Fox 35. *On purpose*. 

    Of course, this is just my perspective, and it is perfectly clear that people are going to keep doing it until stunt is over. I am trying to steer people away from this, into something that *I* think will provide objectively superior performance based on my 30 years of stunt competition with modern techniques. I have recently gotten another example of positive reinforcement by a few local examples where people went from "not being able to do a square loop" to "competitive in Advanced" in less than a single season. It's part and parcel with the thread in "At the Handle", because you cannot apply the techniques Ted and I are talking about without first having a modern-quality system.

  Again, this thread asked a specific question about particular engines and airplane combinations for which my buddies and I have extensive and careful experiments over the period of decades. I am *pretty darn sure* how both of these engines work in various airplanes, stock. People can take advantage of this, or prove it wrong, and if so, I will tip my cap and go experiment some more.

    As always, it is merely advice, I, too, am trying to give my best advice (and explain exactly *why* I think it works) just like everyone else. Anyone is perfectly free to follow it, or not. And as virtually every thread in the "Engine Setup Forum" (not posted by Randy or myself) shows, not that many people are following it, anyway.

     Brett

Offline Leonard Bourel

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Lieutenant
  • ***
  • Posts: 123
Re: OS .25 LA vs. FP
« Reply #25 on: May 02, 2022, 11:04:56 AM »
Such a funny thing ! When I listen to Randy Brett Tom Dubb or Rich  Re the motors they run and know and I do what they say THEY ALWAYS WORK!!!!!!!!!! Unless I made a stupid mistake ,which I do from time to time Thanks for all the testing guys so I didn't have to Len

Offline phil c

  • 21 supporter
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • *
  • Posts: 2480
Re: OS .25 LA vs. FP
« Reply #26 on: May 04, 2022, 10:23:26 AM »
I'll throw in my own discovery.  All the FP motors, from the FP 20 to the LA 46 run more reliably and are easier to set needle valve using the stock muffler.

I built a Brodak Smoothie a number of years ago, with an LA40 in the original upright engine style- old time stunt legal and all that, but left of the muffler.  Closer to old time.  Didn't work.The motor was a bit rough/erratic running.  Fuel, glow plugs, settings,it was just a bit erratic.  Thinking "it can't be worse" I put on the LA muffler that  came with the engine.  All the minor little problems went away.  The LA 46 behaved almost exactly the same, but an old time or classic model rarely needs that much power.

I suspect maybe OS found a little inspiration from a couple of Toyota engine engineers.  Most of the Toyo motors run well and last a long time with handbook maintainence.
phil Cartier

Offline Brett Buck

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • ******
  • Posts: 13732
Re: OS .25 LA vs. FP
« Reply #27 on: May 04, 2022, 10:36:25 AM »
I'll throw in my own discovery.  All the FP motors, from the FP 20 to the LA 46 run more reliably and are easier to set needle valve using the stock muffler.

   !

   Brett

Offline Claudio Chacon

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Captain
  • *****
  • Posts: 697
Re: OS .25 LA vs. FP
« Reply #28 on: May 04, 2022, 11:40:15 AM »
    Both should be LEFT ALONE unless there is a definable problem, the "new" 25LA being the nearest thing to a "free lunch" that I have ever seen in stunt. You literally do nothing except take it out of the box and bolt it to an airplane.

      Brett

Brett, are you talking about the 25LA CHINESE version or the JAPANESE version?
(Are there any diferences between these two in terms of performance/quality???  ???)

Later,
Claudio.

Offline Brett Buck

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • ******
  • Posts: 13732
Re: OS .25 LA vs. FP
« Reply #29 on: May 04, 2022, 11:53:55 AM »
Brett, are you talking about the 25LA CHINESE version or the JAPANESE version?
(Are there any diferences between these two in terms of performance/quality???  ???)

   I get them out of the box, and run them, I have no idea where they came from.  Actually, I do - either Tower Hobbies or PECS Hobby Shop in Mountain View, California. Gonna a need a time machine to access either one now.

     There are two "types" or performance ranges for the 25LA that I know about - the original version, and the "new" version. The difference between the two is about 1500-2000 or so RPM with a APC 9-4. So far, all the "original" versions I have seen or tested seem to be painted blue. All the higher-performance version that I have tested are bare metal, but I am not certain that this is the dividing point. I assume that they are two separate production runs.

     Neither should be modified, drilled, altered, or even taken apart unless you have a genuine problem, that is, it gets dirt in it or something breaks (like the backplate). Neither should any other engine, in most cases, and then, only unless you really know what they are doing and what they are trying to accomplish - which, with no offense to anyone, includes almost no one reading this, particularly "engine guys".

   The earlier weak version is less powerful than a 20FP, and might be on the edge of acceptable for a Ringmaster, and you will have to run it pretty hard in a Flite Streak, Skyray 35, etc. The later version is more powerful than a 20FP and less than a 25FP, but handles and is much more reliable for Flite-streak-sized airplanes than the 25FP as I noted above. The "new" 25LA is even better than the 20FP in that regard. The weak point is the integral needle valve mount on the plastic backplate, and people using "ape grip" torque on the screws.

   As always, read all the posts back to 2006 here (and those dating back to 1996 if you had access to the old Compuserve forum) on what to do to make these engines work and how to use it (including the exhortation to *use the STOCK MUFFLER* in every single post -  which apparently Phil has now "discovered").

     Brett

Offline Claudio Chacon

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Captain
  • *****
  • Posts: 697
Re: OS .25 LA vs. FP
« Reply #30 on: May 04, 2022, 12:18:52 PM »
   I get them out of the box, and run them, I have no idea where they came from.  Actually, I do - either Tower Hobbies or PECS Hobby Shop in Mountain View, California. Gonna a need a time machine to access either one now.

     There are two "types" or performance ranges for the 25LA that I know about - the original version, and the "new" version. The difference between the two is about 1500-2000 or so RPM with a APC 9-4. So far, all the "original" versions I have seen or tested seem to be painted blue. All the higher-performance version that I have tested are bare metal, but I am not certain that this is the dividing point. I assume that they are two separate production runs.

     Neither should be modified, drilled, altered, or even taken apart unless you have a genuine problem, that is, it gets dirt in it or something breaks (like the backplate). Neither should any other engine, in most cases, and then, only unless you really know what they are doing and what they are trying to accomplish - which, with no offense to anyone, includes almost no one reading this, particularly "engine guys".

   The earlier weak version is less powerful than a 20FP, and might be on the edge of acceptable for a Ringmaster, and you will have to run it pretty hard in a Flite Streak, Skyray 35, etc. The later version is more powerful than a 20FP and less than a 25FP, but handles and is much more reliable for Flite-streak-sized airplanes than the 25FP as I noted above. The "new" 25LA is even better than the 20FP in that regard. The weak point is the integral needle valve mount on the plastic backplate, and people using "ape grip" torque on the screws.

   As always, read all the posts back to 2006 here (and those dating back to 1996 if you had access to the old Compuserve forum) on what to do to make these engines work and how to use it (including the exhortation to *use the STOCK MUFFLER* in every single post -  which apparently Phil has now "discovered").

     Brett

Thanks, Brett...
Yes, I've been following your notes regarding the OS 25FP and LA thoroughly, but never saw any comments on the China vs Japan versions.
I have a NIB all metal, China made, OS 25LA waitng for a Ringmaster...can you tell by knowing the serial number if this engine belongs to one of the latest factory runs?

Claudio.

Online Dan McEntee

  • 23 supporter
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • *
  • Posts: 6856
Re: OS .25 LA vs. FP
« Reply #31 on: May 04, 2022, 12:19:53 PM »
Brett, are you talking about the 25LA CHINESE version or the JAPANESE version?
(Are there any diferences between these two in terms of performance/quality???  ???)

Later,
Claudio.

   I have never heard of any OS engine being made in China. Some OS clones, yes. Super Tigre , yes, or at least they were assembled in China from stock parts made in Italy, except for some back plates that had "CHINA" cast into them when made. I don't think OS would have anything to do with any kind of production n China. Is there something on the packaging that says it was made in China?

    I have never been able to snag a silver LA.25 either to see if they run any different here where I live that the blue engines. If there is any differences in timing or crank shafts, some one that is set up to check that easily should post what they find. I think I have all the tools and equipment but would take me a couple weeks to find it all!

   Type at you later,
  Dan McEntee
AMA 28784
EAA  1038824
AMA 480405 (American Motorcyclist Association)

Offline Claudio Chacon

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Captain
  • *****
  • Posts: 697
Re: OS .25 LA vs. FP
« Reply #32 on: May 04, 2022, 12:45:35 PM »
   I have never heard of any OS engine being made in China. Some OS clones, yes. Super Tigre , yes, or at least they were assembled in China from stock parts made in Italy, except for some back plates that had "CHINA" cast into them when made. I don't think OS would have anything to do with any kind of production n China. Is there something on the packaging that says it was made in China?

    I have never been able to snag a silver LA.25 either to see if they run any different here where I live that the blue engines. If there is any differences in timing or crank shafts, some one that is set up to check that easily should post what they find. I think I have all the tools and equipment but would take me a couple weeks to find it all!

   Type at you later,
  Dan McEntee

Hi Dan! Nice to see you...
Yes! It says "MADE IN CHINA" printed on the box.
I have had in my hands a "Made in Japan" version and let me tell you: Both are visually IDENTICAL in every possible aspect...even the box, the paper instructions, stickers etc...


Offline Brett Buck

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • ******
  • Posts: 13732
Re: OS .25 LA vs. FP
« Reply #33 on: May 04, 2022, 02:14:45 PM »
Hi Dan! Nice to see you...
Yes! It says "MADE IN CHINA" printed on the box.
I have had in my hands a "Made in Japan" version and let me tell you: Both are visually IDENTICAL in every possible aspect...even the box, the paper instructions, stickers etc...

  If you really want to know, my test is to set it up as it comes with all the parts, put on an APC-9-4, use 10% RC Sport fuel, and start it. Let ir run 30 seconds at the factory-preset needle (rich), then, lean it out as fast is it will* go, that is peak it out lean, until one click more and it sags, then back off to the richest setting that the RPM does not drop. Measure the RPM, and it should be 14,000+ rpm (at least at sea level/STP). That's the good kind.   If it is more like 12,800-13,000, then it is OK and will run pretty well, but that is the "old" version.

   I also note that if you are at altitude, you might need more nitro to do the test. I test ran it at Tuscon one year (2200 feet) on YS 20/20 and got about the same RPM. So, presumably, at 1000 you might try 15% for the same test. That's not at all scientific, but the 10->15 shift is also what we do going from Bay Area sea level to 1000 foot high Muncie.

  If you have both types, it is not at all hard to tell the good one from the ordinary one - Jim Aron fired up his new 25LA in his "Feno", I was over working on my airplane and not paying much attention, it took no more than 2 seconds to hear the difference - the good one 4-strokes at the peaked-out-lean speed of the old one.

      Brett

*note that I did this test with a brand-new, out-of-the box 5 minutes ago engine, and no damage or apparent lost life. But, once you finish, DO NOT put your hand on any metal part of the engine, particularly not on the plain bearing section, venturi, or thrust washer. That's because it will be 2nd degree burn HOT, to the point your skin sticks to it. That is presumably because of the plain-bearing section being draggy, and it will go away with about 25 flights.

Offline Martin Quartim

  • 22 supporter
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Captain
  • *
  • Posts: 802
    • StuntHobby
Re: OS .25 LA vs. FP
« Reply #34 on: May 04, 2022, 04:30:11 PM »
  If you really want to know, my test is to set it up as it comes with all the parts, put on an APC-9-4, use 10% RC Sport fuel, and start it. Let ir run 30 seconds at the factory-preset needle (rich), then, lean it out as fast is it will* go, that is peak it out lean, until one click more and it sags, then back off to the richest setting that the RPM does not drop. Measure the RPM, and it should be 14,000+ rpm (at least at sea level/STP). That's the good kind.   If it is more like 12,800-13,000, then it is OK and will run pretty well, but that is the "old" version.

   I also note that if you are at altitude, you might need more nitro to do the test. I test ran it at Tuscon one year (2200 feet) on YS 20/20 and got about the same RPM. So, presumably, at 1000 you might try 15% for the same test. That's not at all scientific, but the 10->15 shift is also what we do going from Bay Area sea level to 1000 foot high Muncie.

  If you have both types, it is not at all hard to tell the good one from the ordinary one - Jim Aron fired up his new 25LA in his "Feno", I was over working on my airplane and not paying much attention, it took no more than 2 seconds to hear the difference - the good one 4-strokes at the peaked-out-lean speed of the old one.

      Brett

*note that I did this test with a brand-new, out-of-the box 5 minutes ago engine, and no damage or apparent lost life. But, once you finish, DO NOT put your hand on any metal part of the engine, particularly not on the plain bearing section, venturi, or thrust washer. That's because it will be 2nd degree burn HOT, to the point your skin sticks to it. That is presumably because of the plain-bearing section being draggy, and it will go away with about 25 flights.

why use higher nitro which cost so much more, when you can change the venturi to compensate for density altitude?  A 25 running high rpms with a low pitch prop should have no problem with a larger venturi.

Also did you really use PA 65 or 61  in a Vector, or was that a joke? 

Martin
Old Enya's never die, they just run stronger!

https://www.youtube.com/user/martinSOLO

Offline Martin Quartim

  • 22 supporter
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Captain
  • *
  • Posts: 802
    • StuntHobby
Re: OS .25 LA vs. FP
« Reply #35 on: May 04, 2022, 04:33:30 PM »
I guess some one at OS ReWork the engine  LL~ LL~ LL~ LL~ LL~
Old Enya's never die, they just run stronger!

https://www.youtube.com/user/martinSOLO

Online Dan McEntee

  • 23 supporter
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • *
  • Posts: 6856
Re: OS .25 LA vs. FP
« Reply #36 on: May 04, 2022, 04:57:17 PM »
Hi Dan! Nice to see you...
Yes! It says "MADE IN CHINA" printed on the box.
I have had in my hands a "Made in Japan" version and let me tell you: Both are visually IDENTICAL in every possible aspect...even the box, the paper instructions, stickers etc...

   That is pretty hard to believe, given the relationship between China and Japan politically. I don't know if I have any boxes or paperwork, as I usually pick up my engines second hand at swap meets, Craig's List and such. I will have to go check out my OS foot locker. The date on yours is older than I would have thought also. I wonder when production officially ceased?
  Type at you later,
  Dan McEntee

   Edit to add;  Yours isn't from the last of production, I don't think. Yours has the one piece plastic back plate/needle valve assembly. I think the final versions had a plastic back plate, and separate metal bracket for the needle valve assembly, which gives you several mounting options to keep the needle out of harms way.
AMA 28784
EAA  1038824
AMA 480405 (American Motorcyclist Association)

Offline Claudio Chacon

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Captain
  • *****
  • Posts: 697
Re: OS .25 LA vs. FP
« Reply #37 on: May 05, 2022, 10:13:41 AM »
  If you really want to know, my test is to set it up as it comes with all the parts, put on an APC-9-4, use 10% RC Sport fuel, and start it. Let ir run 30 seconds at the factory-preset needle (rich), then, lean it out as fast is it will* go, that is peak it out lean, until one click more and it sags, then back off to the richest setting that the RPM does not drop. Measure the RPM, and it should be 14,000+ rpm (at least at sea level/STP). That's the good kind.   If it is more like 12,800-13,000, then it is OK and will run pretty well, but that is the "old" version.

   I also note that if you are at altitude, you might need more nitro to do the test. I test ran it at Tuscon one year (2200 feet) on YS 20/20 and got about the same RPM. So, presumably, at 1000 you might try 15% for the same test. That's not at all scientific, but the 10->15 shift is also what we do going from Bay Area sea level to 1000 foot high Muncie.

  If you have both types, it is not at all hard to tell the good one from the ordinary one - Jim Aron fired up his new 25LA in his "Feno", I was over working on my airplane and not paying much attention, it took no more than 2 seconds to hear the difference - the good one 4-strokes at the peaked-out-lean speed of the old one.

      Brett

*note that I did this test with a brand-new, out-of-the box 5 minutes ago engine, and no damage or apparent lost life. But, once you finish, DO NOT put your hand on any metal part of the engine, particularly not on the plain bearing section, venturi, or thrust washer. That's because it will be 2nd degree burn HOT, to the point your skin sticks to it. That is presumably because of the plain-bearing section being draggy, and it will go away with about 25 flights.

Ok Brett...noted.
I fly almost at sea level in my area so much less nitro will be needed.

We'll see what happens with my "chinese" engine!  ;D

Thanks.
Best regards,
Claudio.

Offline Claudio Chacon

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Captain
  • *****
  • Posts: 697
Re: OS .25 LA vs. FP
« Reply #38 on: May 05, 2022, 10:22:04 AM »
   That is pretty hard to believe, given the relationship between China and Japan politically. I don't know if I have any boxes or paperwork, as I usually pick up my engines second hand at swap meets, Craig's List and such. I will have to go check out my OS foot locker. The date on yours is older than I would have thought also. I wonder when production officially ceased?
  Type at you later,
  Dan McEntee

   Edit to add;  Yours isn't from the last of production, I don't think. Yours has the one piece plastic back plate/needle valve assembly. I think the final versions had a plastic back plate, and separate metal bracket for the needle valve assembly, which gives you several mounting options to keep the needle out of harms way.

Yes Dan, I agree...it is hard to believe...it's a mistery to me too!

We shall see!
I will keep you guys posted...

Thanks,
Claudio.


Offline Brett Buck

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • ******
  • Posts: 13732
Re: OS .25 LA vs. FP
« Reply #39 on: May 05, 2022, 10:46:56 AM »
Ok Brett...noted.
I fly almost at sea level in my area so much less nitro will be needed.


   So do we, use 10%.

     Brett

Offline Sean McEntee

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Captain
  • *****
  • Posts: 873
Re: OS .25 LA vs. FP
« Reply #40 on: May 05, 2022, 03:47:42 PM »


    I have never been able to snag a silver LA.25 either to see if they run any different here where I live that the blue engines. If there is any differences in timing or crank shafts, some one that is set up to check that easily should post what they find. I think I have all the tools and equipment but would take me a couple weeks to find it all!

   Type at you later,
  Dan McEntee

     I had a "bare metal" LA25 on my Frisky Pete.  No discernable difference for me.

Offline Brett Buck

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • ******
  • Posts: 13732
Re: OS .25 LA vs. FP
« Reply #41 on: May 05, 2022, 09:35:57 PM »
why use higher nitro which cost so much more, when you can change the venturi to compensate for density altitude?  A 25 running high rpms with a low pitch prop should have no problem with a larger venturi.

     It's already on the edge of too large using the stock venturi. And again - why do something to adjust the venturi, requiring wrenches, etc. when I can just switch nitro and have zero problems. In any case, THE ENTIRE POINT is to run it without modifying it, so others can replicate it.

    I assume you also mean for the Jett 61- have you ever had a properly-working piped system? You definitely DO NOT just switch the venturi around willy-nilly when you go from sea level to 2200 feet. Or, if you do, you will waste the entire weekend finding other adjustments. Of course, I can get it to more-or-less run OK in the righ power range in flight or two, but make it boost and brake exactly at the right moments in a wide range of conditions, that's several days of all day long.

I can change fuel and it works with absolutely no other changes and runs with not even a tweak of the needle from sea-level practice flights. 

    In any case, a gallon of 10% costs $26.95, 15% costs $27.95, and 20% is $29.95. It's 120 miles 1-way to the hobby shop to get it, 240 total, at 27 mpg, that is $51 at the current price, just to pick it up. In the noise compared to the time and effort wasted trying to screw around taking the engine apart multiple times.

Quote
Also did you really use PA 65 or 61  in a Vector, or was that a joke? 

   I didn't, Jim Aron did, piped PA65 and a RO-Jett 61 BSE in a Vector 40. His real airplane at the time was about the same size, same engines. PA65/585 square inches is no crazier than PA75/625 square inches - and that won a world championship and half-a-dozen NATs.

     Brett

Offline Tim Wescott

  • 2016 supporter
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • *
  • Posts: 12808
Re: OS .25 LA vs. FP
« Reply #42 on: May 06, 2022, 10:00:47 AM »
... Of course, I can get it to more-or-less run OK in the righ power range in flight or two, but make it boost and brake exactly at the right moments in a wide range of conditions, that's several days of all day long. ...

Any time I start thinking "why did I switch to electric instead of proceeding to piped engines" I shall remember that statement.

I'm sure that in the end using an active timer will take as much fussing and fiddling -- but I can have one stored program for each 1000 feet of altitude (or the settings written down), and only do the fiddling and fussing once per plane.  And the plane is easier to clean.
AMA 64232

The problem with electric is that once you get the smoke generator and sound system installed, the plane is too heavy.

Offline Brett Buck

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • ******
  • Posts: 13732
Re: OS .25 LA vs. FP
« Reply #43 on: May 06, 2022, 11:10:10 AM »
Any time I start thinking "why did I switch to electric instead of proceeding to piped engines" I shall remember that statement.

      That's just it - it's not very difficult at all. I do a practice session here on 10%, say it works properly, I drive out to Muncie, put in 15%, and its within a gnat's ass of the right needle and the overall run quality is more-or-less identical to home. I spend essentially zero time on it, and that's how most people do it.

     Martin didn't want  use the simple and extensively tested way you actually deal with this issue, and instead do something messy and time-consuming - and ultimately doomed to failure, because you *can't* just change the venturi to make up differences in air density. That just illustrates that he doesn't really understand how to set up engines at a high competition level.

     Yes, you will Get More Power - but both air density changes and venturi changes radically alter the fuel draw and thus the engine response. Why do you think I keep exhorting people to leave the 20FP venturi (and everything else) ALONE - it happens to be nearly ideal with the other setup items, change it and you are off in the weeds again. It's mostly a coincidence, but it is a very fortunate coincidence.

    That's not a particular "dig" on him - I am sure he is just trying to help and genuinely believes that this will work. Virtually every "engine expert" is also certain they know exactly what to do. Guys like me, who don't actually care much about engines aside from how they pull the airplane, know what the engine needs to do to be competitive, and just enough about engines to know when the "death spiral" is going to start, and bend every effort to avoid it. That's why I suggest to most budding stunt fliers to avoid "engine experts" and don't let them come anywhere near their engines.

   I note that the suppliers of competitive engines (Randy Smith and Dub Jett/Richard Oliver, and the Yatsenkos) are actually national and world-class pilots or associated with them, so was GMA who started it all (in ever possible way). Not primarily "engine guys".

 I would add - 4-2 break engines are FAR MORE messy when trying to do stuff like this than piped engines. Piped engine were a complete revolution in performance, but also in consistency. Most people came up with a stable setup and then have been maintaining it with very minor changes ever since, in my case, almost 20 years. Every so often I try an alternate system, work on it for a season or so, but usually end up back at the baseline. 4-2 break engines, you were endless just reacting to whatever random change that happened.


     Brett

Offline Martin Quartim

  • 22 supporter
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Captain
  • *
  • Posts: 802
    • StuntHobby
Re: OS .25 LA vs. FP
« Reply #44 on: May 06, 2022, 05:34:26 PM »
     It's already on the edge of too large using the stock venturi. And again - why do something to adjust the venturi, requiring wrenches, etc. when I can just switch nitro and have zero problems. In any case, THE ENTIRE POINT is to run it without modifying it, so others can replicate it.

    I assume you also mean for the Jett 61- have you ever had a properly-working piped system? You definitely DO NOT just switch the venturi around willy-nilly when you go from sea level to 2200 feet. Or, if you do, you will waste the entire weekend finding other adjustments. Of course, I can get it to more-or-less run OK in the righ power range in flight or two, but make it boost and brake exactly at the right moments in a wide range of conditions, that's several days of all day long.

I can change fuel and it works with absolutely no other changes and runs with not even a tweak of the needle from sea-level practice flights. 

    In any case, a gallon of 10% costs $26.95, 15% costs $27.95, and 20% is $29.95. It's 120 miles 1-way to the hobby shop to get it, 240 total, at 27 mpg, that is $51 at the current price, just to pick it up. In the noise compared to the time and effort wasted trying to screw around taking the engine apart multiple times.

   I didn't, Jim Aron did, piped PA65 and a RO-Jett 61 BSE in a Vector 40. His real airplane at the time was about the same size, same engines. PA65/585 square inches is no crazier than PA75/625 square inches - and that won a world championship and half-a-dozen NATs.

     Brett

God Bless America! you guys have the best of everything! We have INSANE taxes down here and fuel is a lot more expensive thanks to the Left governing Brazil for the last 30 years. They start increasing taxes and removing your rights little by little and there is no end to it.

Here in Brazil there is a huge difference in price between 10%,  15% and 20% nitro, as much as 50%  from 10% to 15%. No one uses more than 10% nitro fuel with 2 stroke engines, as matter of fact many use home brew fuel with 0% nitro.

Recommending 15% or even worse 20% nitro is not a good advice because of high costs here. Venturi is cheap, easy to replace and works quite well as a solution to get the same results through out the weather seasons.


Martin


Old Enya's never die, they just run stronger!

https://www.youtube.com/user/martinSOLO

Online Lauri Malila

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • ******
  • Posts: 1632
Re: OS .25 LA vs. FP
« Reply #45 on: May 07, 2022, 07:46:19 AM »
Quote from: Brett Buck
[list
[li]Grind down the intake port to "reduce the blowdown"

Sorry for off-topic, but I’d really like to hear the ”specialist” reasoning behind this very butchery.
To me it sounds like the ultimate sillyness, kind of 2 f**kups with price of one. It’ll kill both scavenging pressure and velocity. L[/list]

Offline Martin Quartim

  • 22 supporter
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Captain
  • *
  • Posts: 802
    • StuntHobby
Re: OS .25 LA vs. FP
« Reply #46 on: May 07, 2022, 05:03:56 PM »
      That's just it - it's not very difficult at all. I do a practice session here on 10%, say it works properly, I drive out to Muncie, put in 15%, and its within a gnat's ass of the right needle and the overall run quality is more-or-less identical to home. I spend essentially zero time on it, and that's how most people do it.

     Martin didn't want  use the simple and extensively tested way you actually deal with this issue, and instead do something messy and time-consuming - and ultimately doomed to failure, because you *can't* just change the venturi to make up differences in air density. That just illustrates that he doesn't really understand how to set up engines at a high competition level.

     Yes, you will Get More Power - but both air density changes and venturi changes radically alter the fuel draw and thus the engine response. Why do you think I keep exhorting people to leave the 20FP venturi (and everything else) ALONE - it happens to be nearly ideal with the other setup items, change it and you are off in the weeds again. It's mostly a coincidence, but it is a very fortunate coincidence.

    That's not a particular "dig" on him - I am sure he is just trying to help and genuinely believes that this will work. Virtually every "engine expert" is also certain they know exactly what to do. Guys like me, who don't actually care much about engines aside from how they pull the airplane, know what the engine needs to do to be competitive, and just enough about engines to know when the "death spiral" is going to start, and bend every effort to avoid it. That's why I suggest to most budding stunt fliers to avoid "engine experts" and don't let them come anywhere near their engines.

   I note that the suppliers of competitive engines (Randy Smith and Dub Jett/Richard Oliver, and the Yatsenkos) are actually national and world-class pilots or associated with them, so was GMA who started it all (in ever possible way). Not primarily "engine guys".

 I would add - 4-2 break engines are FAR MORE messy when trying to do stuff like this than piped engines. Piped engine were a complete revolution in performance, but also in consistency. Most people came up with a stable setup and then have been maintaining it with very minor changes ever since, in my case, almost 20 years. Every so often I try an alternate system, work on it for a season or so, but usually end up back at the baseline. 4-2 break engines, you were endless just reacting to whatever random change that happened.


     Brett


doom to failure????  Last Brazilian NATS I participated I finished 3rd and beat my direct rivals with PA engines back in 2012. In windy days, I clearly had the advantage against the guys with World Class engines. Perhaps because they didnīt know better how set-up their engines, may be.

it is so inelegant to try disqualify me  in this manner and brining in all this other off topic matters.

Martin
Old Enya's never die, they just run stronger!

https://www.youtube.com/user/martinSOLO

Offline phil c

  • 21 supporter
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • *
  • Posts: 2480
Re: OS .25 LA vs. FP
« Reply #47 on: May 13, 2022, 07:44:03 PM »
Thanks, Brett...
Yes, I've been following your notes regarding the OS 25FP and LA thoroughly, but never saw any comments on the China vs Japan versions.
I have a NIB all metal, China made, OS 25LA waitng for a Ringmaster...can you tell by knowing the serial number if this engine belongs to one of the latest factory runs?

Claudio.

It's been awhile, but,  the first batch of OS 25LA's was available for about 1 year from intro(I never kept notes).  My first one took a full year to break in because the crankshaft was fitted slightly too tight-  the problem was not obvious because flying mostly combat there were too many other things that go wrong. The second year with the same engine it started to run perfectly.  Easy to set, didn't overheat, had plenty of power, etc.  The second year production generally worked fine with moderate breakin.
The third year was the "China built" engine. The main problem was EVERY ONE was different in several spots.  Head clearance, glowplug fit(some too deep, others too shallow), piston and liner fit, especially too loose.  That made for
 unpredictable  performance from beginning to end of an engine run.  The crankshaft fit varied enough that it made each engine different.  That made it difficult to identify what problem was causing what behavior.

From hearsay the last batch of blue LA 25's were fine.  They were built in Japan. The silver LA 15's mfg'd since appear to be just as well built.  I got two  that run very well with minimal break in.  Most of the builds used primarily a plastic backplate with a built in needle valve.  This doesn't work for combat but can work well in PA.  Just be careful if you have to clean the engine.  The plastic backplate needle valve can develop internal leaks if it is manhandled too much.



The maion takeaway is

phil Cartier

Offline Claudio Chacon

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Captain
  • *****
  • Posts: 697
Re: OS .25 LA vs. FP
« Reply #48 on: May 14, 2022, 05:58:37 AM »


Hi Phil,
Thank you very much for your information.
So...it seems that the China made engine isn't the best one...let's see how lucky I am with mine!  ???

In any case, I have two ENYA 25SS NIB, MADE IN JAPAN, if something goes wrong...  S?P

Best regards,
Claudio.

Offline Brett Buck

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • ******
  • Posts: 13732
Re: OS .25 LA vs. FP
« Reply #49 on: May 14, 2022, 12:41:11 PM »
it is so inelegant to try disqualify me  in this manner and brining in all this other off topic matters.

    OK, you are right, I apologize ,this is not to my general standard. I let my frustration get the best of me.

    Brett


Advertise Here
Tags:
 


Advertise Here