Sullivan Tank Issue...

[Joe Yau]

Well..  I found out last weekend that the second Sullivan fuel tank has sprung a leak again!  Its the Sullivan RST-6 #426. I even put a nylon tie around the neck to support it a bit.  I'm just wondering if that is a common thing with these tanks?  I just can't have this happen again.  as the 20% nitro fuel that I used on the Saito has really done quite a job on the paint finish..   

[Roger Vizioli]

Joe,
I've used them for years without a problem.
Is it possible you are tightening the center screw too much?  
Also, tie wrap is restricting expansion in that area and might be redirecting the load on the  rubber plug to expand locally in the neck of the tank increasing load in that area. ??
Roger V.

[GEOFFREY]

after  my first tank split i wrapped the neck with the same copper wire that i wrap my leadouts with. then a thin coat of epoxy . curant tank has 2 years.  have done this on many and no failures ..

[Joe Yau]

Joe,
I've used them for years without a problem.
Is it possible you are tightening the center screw too much?  
Also, tie wrap is restricting expansion in that area and might be redirecting the load on the  rubber plug to expand locally in the neck of the tank increasing load in that area. ??
Roger V.

My first tank also split the same way though. I think the tie wrap must of stretched or something, as I made sure it was on real tight before I assemble it.  and the center screw was just tightened down till all the tubings don't  move around easily.

[Joe Yau]

after  my first tank split i wrapped the neck with the same copper wire that i wrap my leadouts with. then a thin coat of epoxy . curant tank has 2 years.  have done this on many and no failures ..

That sounds like a good idea.   

[Roger Vizioli]

That sounds like a good idea.    

It's a "Great" idea, thanks.     Roger V.

[SteveMoon]

Joe: I noticed that the hardware (stopper, etc) don't look
like the items that come with a Sullivan tank. The Sullivan
end piece is plastic and fits over the rubber piece. I've
never had a Sullivan tank split. I have had the tubing wear
out from old age.

Steve

[Richard Grogan]

Is the inside plate(bottom of stopper) that the screw is into, metal as well? I too have never seen metal plates on a sullivan tank... other than the clunk,brass tubing and screw.Its always been nylon top and bottom plates used to compress the rubber stopper. Seems if it is all metal, it would be easier to split the tank.I have used these tanks for many years(RC and CL) and have never seen this happen.

[Joe Messinger]

That tank stopper looks like one that came with the tank that was part of the Top Flite Nobler ARF that I have.  Don't know what brand the tank is but I had trouble with that.  The Sullivan tank stoppers do have a rim around them that supports the mouth of the tank.

Joe

[Scott Hartford]

That tank has a definate Chinese flavor to it. Looks like the ones that come in World Models and ModelTech arfs.....

[Steve Helmick]

Looks like a DuBro tank, possibly...and I'm not an expert on clunk tanks. However, after having a new Sullivan clunk tank leak like crazy (maybe the plug was old?), I put on a Hayes tank and ended the problem instantly.
  Steve

[Joe Yau]

You guys are right.. the metal piece / plumbing hardware are from the TF Score ARF. But I did used the Sullivan ones on the first tank, and it splited. So I thought I try something different by using a tie wrap for some extra support..  (as the plastic cup housing that came with the Sullivan tank doesn't really supports the neck all that well).    I think I'll try the copper wire & epoxy trick on my third Sullivan tank (last one) before I go to a Hayes tank or maybe a CF tank etc.  

[john e. holliday]

When I flew R/C I used those tanks a lot.  Never had one split or leak.  Just tighten the screw enough to stop leakage, never enough to stop moving the tubing.  DOC Holliday

[Joe Yau]

Thanks for all the replies.. 

This is what I've done.. I wraped the neck of the tank with #24 guage copper wire and then JB weld it.  will see how it holds up in a few months. 

[Andrew Borgogna]

I agree with Doc, I too have used these type tanks for decades during my long stint on the dark side.  I still use the today and you do not need to crank the screw down as hard as you might think.  I just does not have to leak, and later if it starts to leak screw it down until it stops but again avoid the desire to screw it down until nothing will move.  Sometimes they split because they  are just defective, but in most cases it is do to over tighening.  One last thing, I always take some light sand paper and remove the flashing on inside of the stopper hole.
Andy

[Joe Yau]

Sometimes they split because they  are just defective, but in most cases it is do to over tighening. 
Andy

Yeah, I think I could be over tightening them.. but it is also very possible that they are "defective", cause I bought all three at the same time (as clearance item).  and the one I used in the TF Score (same type/model Sullivan tank) was bought at a different Hobby Shop and seems to be o.k. at this point. 

[Pinecone]

The new Sullivan tanks have a outer cap that has a lip, so they are more of a bottle cap shape than flat.  I would suspect that it is to support that area.

But if you have a real Sulllivan tank, with real Sullivan hardware and have problems, I would call Sullivan.  I have had good support from them.