Oil based paint over Brodak clear

[Steve Moore]

Been working on a GB S-String and was trying to match the yellow $ cote I have to match the Fuse. Had some of that Tractor rattle can paint.  After spraying some coats (always read instructions) I noticed that the it says its oil based on the can, got the stuff everwere. Dried out OK and the finish looks good, the color is dead on.

Anybody tried this stuff? probably heavy too... 

[Steve Moore]

Well, came out 31 oz. with an oz. in the tail (had to get a big tank in there).  That would make it 32 oz., still don't know it the paint is FP, we shall soon see

[Bill Adair]

Steve,

That is one fine looking Shoestring! 

Makes me want to build another one!

The last was years ago, and I can't remember what I used for power. Think I was playing around with the six buck engines back then, so it could have been a McCoy RH Stunt .35, or K&B .35 Stallion. Neither lasted as long as the Shoestring, which was a first for me. Engines are not supposed to wear out before the airplane! 

Bill Adair

[Steve Helmick]

Enamel won't be real fuelproof, but then, neither is butyrate dope. You could have used Top Flite "Lustre Kote" (Tower carries it, and the LHS probably does), which is made to match Monokote colors (it does). It can also make a very nice finish.  Tho some have reported bad results, many others report quite good results. They have a clear that would be a good topcoat for your enamel. Lustre Kote is a polyurethane, which works over anything except latex. However, the best advise is always to test before you use it on the model.  Steve

[Bob Reeves]

Last winter I did a little work on my Ford tractor, went to the local NewHolland dealer and bought matching paint. After using it on the tractor I was really impressed with how well it went on and the resulting finish. Thinking, hey.. if this stuff is fuel proof it will be great for quick profile finishes... Did a little test and it failed miserably... 

On LustreKote.... I had sworn to never buy another can of LustreKote after the red on my Omnium turned black, also had trouble with several other cans leaving big clumps or not spraying at all.

Several months ago, one of our local hobby shops went out of business and was selling LustreKote for 50% off so stupid me bought two cans. Decided to paint the fuselage on my new Ringmaster with one of the new cans thinking "how bad can it be"..

Well it can't get much worse, just about the time I was starting to spray the heaver finish coat the can clogged up and nothing would come out. Ran around like a wild man trying to find another nozzle, found a nozzle stuck it in the can and was back in business. Problem was the base coat had dried too much and the top coat ended up looking like I had used a semi gloss paint. Never ever again will I put LustreKote on an airplane..

And just in case some of you think I just don't know what I am doing, I did heat the can, shook the living daylights out of it and kept shaking while I was painting. Sprayed a light coat then went back for a heaver finish coat.. Have two profiles I finished with Rust-Oleum that look like glass, LustreKote is junk do not waste your money.

[Steve Moore]

Well, first off thanks for the replies guys, ended up shooting some WM clear over the painted surfaces, had to go back and thin off the tack off the Brodak white on the canopy. Got in a trim flight late yesterday (few fast @ a dead 4 cycle). Looks like the coat job will work, thanks again.  Ready for the Broken Arrow @ 36 0z. (possibly with very wet tail feathers)...