Not Consistent, Cuts Out, Flips up.

[Chris Fretz]

 So I've been trying to get a Cardinal ready for Brodaks, not going good so far.  The airplane flys level and pretty smooth,  turns on a dime too. Here are my problems. The biggest one is in order for it to shut off under the 8 minute mark its choking out in the overhead 8s. It's a rather stock LA46 with a .257 venturi stock needle valve assembly and the E-3030. It has a 5.5oz RSM uniflow. I wedged the back of the tank out also and that didn't help today.  It's running fine on the inside loop but as soon as it switches to the outside the engine slows down immediately, and with the tank going low on fuel it will spudder In the overhead 8, then run about 15 laps and shut off. This happens with the uniflow line open or even on muffler pressure. There seems to be a fine line between getting a nice 4-2 and a fast 2 when setting the needle on the ground. If it runs a fast 2 it will do like 30 laps after the clover. It's driving me nuts.

So that's the big problem, wants to cut out and inconsistent.

Last problem I started seeing today, the outboard wing flutters up every once in a wile. So I put another 1/4oz weight in. Seemed after this on the outside squares the outboard wing lifts up in the turn. Not sure if the extra weight made it worse or if I finally starting seeing it. Not sure what to do about any of these problems??

Thanks
Chris

[Chris Fretz]

I'm wondering if the outboard wing flipping up in the outsides is adding to my cutting out towards the end of the tank or not.

Anyway I thought wedging the back of the tank would cure my problems but it didn't.

[john e. holliday]

If this is a stock tank, have you opened it up?  Some times the tubes insides are not where they should be.

Now I'm hoping that you have checked the wing to make sure there are no warps. 

[MikeyPratt]

So I've been trying to get a Cardinal ready for Brodaks, not going good so far.  The airplane flys level and pretty smooth,  turns on a dime too. Here are my problems. The biggest one is in order for it to shut off under the 8 minute mark its choking out in the overhead 8s. It's a rather stock LA46 with a .257 venturi stock needle valve assembly and the E-3030. It has a 5.5oz RSM uniflow. I wedged the back of the tank out also and that didn't help today.  It's running fine on the inside loop but as soon as it switches to the outside the engine slows down immediately, and with the tank going low on fuel it will spudder In the overhead 8, then run about 15 laps and shut off. This happens with the uniflow line open or even on muffler pressure. There seems to be a fine line between getting a nice 4-2 and a fast 2 when setting the needle on the ground. If it runs a fast 2 it will do like 30 laps after the clover. It's driving me nuts.

What size prop and length of lines?  It also sounds like the tank is low in inverted flight (or outside maneuvers).  Canting the tank on the rear inside corner should have helped (but as John, suggested maybe it’s the tubes inside the tank).  On most profiles the center line of the tank should be about 1/16 to 1/8 higher than the engine centerline.  Adjust height of thank to get lap times equal.

The flipping up of the wing tip can be a number of things.  Too little tip weight can cause that, but does it drop the same amount on outsides or pops up?  If not, a flap week is in order or remove a slight warp.

Follow P/W trim from beginning to end, also have other flyers watch the model to confirm what you are seeing.

Mikey

[Tom Luciano]

Chris,
 It sounds like you're over lean. Whats your launch rpm and what fuel are you using. I had no luck with the 25 size venturi. I ran the stock one in a wet 2 cycle with a 5.5 oz tank. It was very consistent.

Tom L

[Randy Cuberly]

What propeller  are you running?  Is this being run with a rear mounted needle valve, or a stock OS front needle valve?

Are there any experienced modelers where you live?

Randy Cuberly

[Tom Luciano]

Silly question. You're leaving that cap off the uniflow vent and only capping overflow, correct?

[Tom Luciano]

Chris,
 I have seen you at local contests in pa and jersey. Ill gladly help out if youre not far from west jersey. Or look up the Philly guys,  they are an awesome bunch!

[Brett Buck]

Last problem I started seeing today, the outboard wing flutters up every once in a wile. So I put another 1/4oz weight in. Seemed after this on the outside squares the outboard wing lifts up in the turn. Not sure if the extra weight made it worse or if I finally starting seeing it. Not sure what to do about any of these problems??

     "Up" is ambiguous. Does the outboard tip move to the outside of the turn (i.e. you see the top of the airplane on an outside corner) or to the inside of the turn (i.e. you see the bottom of the airplane in an outside turn)?

   A priori, if it is not doing the same thing in both directions, it's not the tip weight, or at least there is something going on in addition to the wrong tipweight. One assumes you sealed both hinge lines, if not, seal all the hinge lines and start over, because without sealing them, the overwhelming likelihood is that the gap in the hinge line is not consistent over the travel. If nothing else, you can't have that.

    I also assume you trimmed the flap chord, since you say it turns acceptably, if so, did you trim them the same amount on either side?

     Brett

[Ken Culbertson]

I am flying nearly the same setup as you using a Cardinal airfoil and one of my flying buddies also flies the OS46LA on a stock Cardinal.  We both use the 3030.  By all means open up the tank.  If it is a stock uniflow it is very possible that the uniflow tube popped off of the pickup when the back plate was soldered on.  I wrap mine so that it doesn't happen.  I have also gotten a tank with the uniflow and overflow reversed.  What you are describing is exactly what will happen if the uniflow vent goes in and out of the fuel in flight.  Personally I don't run metal tanks on a profile anymore.  Plastic clunks are so much easier to deal with.  Your venturi may be on the small side.  I run a .280 with an 11-5 prop and get a super consistent fast 4 with a switch to a wet 2 when I go overhead.  Full pattern and about 10 laps on 4oz of 10%.  In fact it runs so good that I thought something was wrong with it.

I have also had the roll issue with that airfoil in that once I got the proper tip weight and lead out position for a decent pattern the plane had picked up a noticeable roll in corners.  I had forgotten to balance the flap area.  I added a tab on the outboard with no deflection since I did not have any warps and the roll disappeared.  However, Brett is right - don't do anything to the aerodynamics unless your flaps are sealed. 

[Will Davis]

To get the motor run correct, I would open the Venturi some, I use .280 , I have tried the smaller .250  size with similar problems .

Check the la46  setup  threads, most run a Venturi  larger than the .250

 More important us to use proper fuel and good tank  , then fix trim problems

[Chris Fretz]

I'm headed out so I'll answer in more depth later. 

12.25x3.75, 63ft, Brodak 11.5castor 11.5synthetic 10% I hate the rear needle so I only use the thru the venturi needle valve assembly, I've had good luck drilling out the stinger so I did that as well as remove the muffler baffle. I used the .282 venturi originally but put the .257 in to try to slow the airplane down.  I'm getting 4.9 when its running a fast 2 cycle and 5.2 when I got a good 4-2 going. 

I plug the drain on the tank and I have a pin hole through the yellow cap on the uniflow line so wind won't speed it up.

The tank is stock and I never opened it.  I was under the impression that Eric builds all his tanks and I figured I didn't need to open it like a Brodak tank.

Not many people around me for help Philly is way to far and Jersy is too.

Ill have to video this thing maybe tomorrow.

Thanks again
Chris

[Ken Culbertson]

I'm headed out so I'll answer in more depth later. 

12.25x3.75, 63ft, Brodak 11.5castor 11.5synthetic 10% I hate the rear needle so I only use the thru the venturi needle valve assembly, I've had good luck drilling out the stinger so I did that as well as remove the muffler baffle. I used the .282 venturi originally but put the .257 in to try to slow the airplane down.  I'm getting 4.9 when its running a fast 2 cycle and 5.2 when I got a good 4-2 going. 

I plug the drain on the tank and I have a pin hole through the yellow cap on the uniflow line so wind won't speed it up.

The tank is stock and I never opened it.  I was under the impression that Eric builds all his tanks and I figured I didn't need to open it like a Brodak tank.

Not many people around me for help Philly is way to far and Jersy is too.

Ill have to video this thing maybe tomorrow.

Thanks again
Chris

Someone with more tank experience needs to weigh in here but I don't get the pinhole in the uniflow thing.  I have a trick to see if the uniflow is still attached to the pickup.  Take the tank off and put in just enough fuel to cover the pickup tube with the tank on it's pointed edge.  If you can draw fuel through the uniflow it is most likely OK, if not it is most likely lose, but I still don't get the pinhole thing!

Ken

[Tim Wescott]

... but I don't get the pinhole in the uniflow thing ...

I'm guessing that the idea is to slow down the speed that air can get into the uniflow vent.  If that's really it, and not some fiendishly clever aerodynamic exploit, I'd expect it to do weird things otherwise, by demanding more suction from the venturi.

[Chris Fretz]

All the hinge lines are sealed on the bottom per Bretts scotch tape.

Dan Banjock told me about the pin hole in the uniflow line and it helps when you are flying into the wind. But I can certainly try it without.

I have a 5oz RSM tank I was thinking about rigging on to try that one.

[Chris Fretz]

     "Up" is ambiguous. Does the outboard tip move to the outside of the turn (i.e. you see the top of the airplane on an outside corner) or to the inside of the turn (i.e. you see the bottom of the airplane in an outside turn)?

   A priori, if it is not doing the same thing in both directions, it's not the tip weight, or at least there is something going on in addition to the wrong tipweight. One assumes you sealed both hinge lines, if not, seal all the hinge lines and start over, because without sealing them, the overwhelming likelihood is that the gap in the hinge line is not consistent over the travel. If nothing else, you can't have that.

    I also assume you trimmed the flap chord, since you say it turns acceptably, if so, did you trim them the same amount on either side?

     Brett

I sware I see the top of the outboard wing in outside squares but ill have to video this thing to be absolutely certain. It seems to be flipping one way or the other.  Hinge lines are all sealed.  I did not cut the chord of the flaps I left them alone,  I did make them removable though.

Chris

[Chris Fretz]

Chris,
 I have seen you at local contests in pa and jersey. Ill gladly help out if youre not far from west jersey. Or look up the Philly guys,  they are an awesome bunch!

I can't remember names,  did we talk at the contests?

Chris

[Chris Fretz]

What propeller  are you running?  Is this being run with a rear mounted needle valve, or a stock OS front needle valve?

Are there any experienced modelers where you live?

Randy Cuberly

12.25x3.75, stock front needle valve.

No I'm kinda screwed when it comes to experienced guys that can trim airplanes close to me.

Chris

[Chris Fretz]

Someone with more tank experience needs to weigh in here but I don't get the pinhole in the uniflow thing.  I have a trick to see if the uniflow is still attached to the pickup.  Take the tank off and put in just enough fuel to cover the pickup tube with the tank on it's pointed edge.  If you can draw fuel through the uniflow it is most likely OK, if not it is most likely lose, but I still don't get the pinhole thing!

Ken

I put just enough fuel in the syringe to fill the hose and just start getting into the syringe. With the tank at an angle and the "V"pointing down the uniflow line pulled half of it back out. I'd have to say it's in the right place.

Chris

[Skip Chernoff]

Tom thanks for the kind words but no one I know in the Philly crew knows a bell crank from a glow plug.........just kidding.....no I'm not....just kidding. Cheers PhillySkip

PS Don't give this #liner fellow too much info........he's good and coming on strong!

[Brett Buck]

I sware I see the top of the outboard wing in outside squares but ill have to video this thing to be absolutely certain. It seems to be flipping one way or the other.  Hinge lines are all sealed.  I did not cut the chord of the flaps I left them alone,  I did make them removable though.

  If you are seeing the top of the wing in outside corners, it is rolling away from you, and the added tipweight probably slightly increased it. That doesn't explain why the same thing not happening on insides. I have this funny feeling that there might be some roll/yaw coupling trim issue (because of the odd cutoffs) but I can't see enough of the airplane to figure it out. Could be rudder offset or leadouts too far forward, tail tilt or skew, which might move around since it's a profile and be essentially unfixable.

   With no other information, tweak the flaps until it works the same inside and outside, add tipweight until it obviously rolls out the same both ways, then start reducing it in small increments. If it seems OK in rounds but too much in corners, shave 1/16" off the inboard flap and try again. Almost all "equal span" wing airplanes end up with a tab on the outboard flap to correct for the fact that the CP is shifted laterally due to the lack of offset.

       Brett

[Chris Fretz]

Ok, Just looking at that tank I can tell you I would never make a tank that thick with such an obtuse angle on the wedge. On the vent a pin hole might work ok depending on the size of the pin but, I find a short piece of 3/32" tubing soldered into the end of the vent works well and makes a 1/16" opening so, I think your pin hole could be bigger.

I believe it's referred to as a Snub Nose Uniflow.

[Chris Fretz]

Tom thanks for the kind words but no one I know in the Philly crew knows a bell crank from a glow plug.........just kidding.....no I'm not....just kidding. Cheers PhillySkip

PS Don't give this #liner fellow too much info........he's good and coming on strong!

These airplanes are holding me back Skip!

[Chris Fretz]

  If you are seeing the top of the wing in outside corners, it is rolling away from you, and the added tipweight probably slightly increased it. That doesn't explain why the same thing not happening on insides. I have this funny feeling that there might be some roll/yaw coupling trim issue (because of the odd cutoffs) but I can't see enough of the airplane to figure it out. Could be rudder offset or leadouts too far forward, tail tilt or skew, which might move around since it's a profile and be essentially unfixable.

   With no other information, tweak the flaps until it works the same inside and outside, add tipweight until it obviously rolls out the same both ways, then start reducing it in small increments. If it seems OK in rounds but too much in corners, shave 1/16" off the inboard flap and try again. Almost all "equal span" wing airplanes end up with a tab on the outboard flap to correct for the fact that the CP is shifted laterally due to the lack of offset.

       Brett

Fudge

Would a video help you?

It seemed like the straightest airplane I've built to date, but you know how that goes.

Chris

[Tom Luciano]

I can't remember names,  did we talk at the contests?

Chris

Chris,
 I saw you fly at Hazelton last year. Thought you did quite well!

Tom

[Chris Fretz]

  If you are seeing the top of the wing in outside corners, it is rolling away from you, and the added tipweight probably slightly increased it. That doesn't explain why the same thing not happening on insides. I have this funny feeling that there might be some roll/yaw coupling trim issue (because of the odd cutoffs) but I can't see enough of the airplane to figure it out. Could be rudder offset or leadouts too far forward, tail tilt or skew, which might move around since it's a profile and be essentially unfixable.

   With no other information, tweak the flaps until it works the same inside and outside, add tipweight until it obviously rolls out the same both ways, then start reducing it in small increments. If it seems OK in rounds but too much in corners, shave 1/16" off the inboard flap and try again. Almost all "equal span" wing airplanes end up with a tab on the outboard flap to correct for the fact that the CP is shifted laterally due to the lack of offset.

       Brett

When you give it down the outboard wing lifts up.  Seems the nose pushes out as well.  Put more tip weight in and to me doesn't seem to change anything.  Twisted the flaps, outboard  slightly up and it just flew with outboard  way down.

[Carl Cisneros]

Hey ya

IF you still have trouble with the Cardinal this week, mount an LA 46 on the orange plane I gave you, set the engine to run in a fat 2 stroke,
and go fly.
But I have to agree with the others that that venturi you have on it is too small. I use either 275 or 280's on my 46's Chris.

Carl

[Balsa Butcher]

Venturi too small for the load that prop puts on the engine. Try mounting the tank parallel with the fuselage. That's too much offset. 

[Ken Culbertson]

When you give it down the outboard wing lifts up.  Seems the nose pushes out as well.  Put more tip weight in and to me doesn't seem to change anything.  Twisted the flaps, outboard  slightly up and it just flew with outboard  way down.

Sometimes odd and in some ways contradictory movements like this are because of a weak aft fuselage.   Does the stab flutter much when the engine is running before you launch?  One thing you can do to minimize horizontal movement is to hollow out the underside of the fuselage from about the midpoint of the wing to about midpoint of the gap between the flaps and stab (I use an E-Xacto carving tool). and epoxy in a 1/4" carbon fiber target arrow shaft. The target shafts are very light and extremely stiff.  If you are easy on the Epoxy it is about the same weight as the balsa you removed.  You could also do it on the top if it is straight but it is easier to hide the repair on the bottom.  I use both on a new build.  FYI, they also make great center wing and stab spars.  Twisting is another story.  You almost have to address that when you build it with fiber strips or internal geodetics.

Keep in mind that it is a profile and very few profiles are issue free in tight corners.  At some point you just live with it.

Good Luck - Ken

[Chris Fretz]

As long as it has a name it should work?

I'm just telling you what it is called since you knocked it. I works for some people.

[Chris Fretz]

Chris,
 I saw you fly at Hazelton last year. Thought you did quite well!

Tom

Thanks Tom! That airplane I kind of just got lucky with, all the rest give me headaches.

Chris

[Chris Fretz]

The video don't look like its really showing much of my problems. Except a cut out in the square 8.

[Chris Fretz]

Made it all the way through on this video but not that clear.

[Skip Chernoff]

From here, it looked like the plane was flying ok.The Intermediate guys at Brodaks are gonna have their hands full with you.

[Chris Fretz]

From here, it looked like the plane was flying ok.The Intermediate guys at Brodaks are gonna have their hands full with you.

That's how I thought looking at the video but she sure does lift at the top of all the maneuvers. They wind blew it over once today, thought it was a goner.

[Ken Culbertson]

It doesn't get much better than that with a profile.  Things always look worse from inside the circle.  Only thing I saw was a slight tendency for the outboard wing to come up a little in turns but I had to go to .25 speed on the video to see it.  You could spend a lifetime trying to get that little bit out since it is probably the fuselage twisting or a weak flap.  Looks like you have the CG right.  Most subtle trim problems show up in the overhead and hourglass.  I didn't see anything dangerous there.  Fly it - you done good!

By the way - nice flying site and nice video.  If you are flying intermediate, you won't be for long.

ken

[Chris Fretz]

It doesn't get much better than that with a profile.  Things always look worse from inside the circle.  Only thing I saw was a slight tendency for the outboard wing to come up a little in turns but I had to go to .25 speed on the video to see it.  You could spend a lifetime trying to get that little bit out since it is probably the fuselage twisting or a weak flap.  Looks like you have the CG right.  Most subtle trim problems show up in the overhead and hourglass.  I didn't see anything dangerous there.  Fly it - you done good!

By the way - nice flying site and nice video.  If you are flying intermediate, you won't be for long.

ken

Yes intermediate. How did you slow it to 1/4 speed? With it lifting it seemes to cause it to want to cut out when the fuel is low, that's a bit tense in the overheads wondering if it's going to shut off.

Thanks by the way.  It's a mobius camera, hit or miss on getting it pointed in the right direction. Just a local ballfield, I cross my fingers evertime I go there that no one is using the field.

Chris

[Brett Buck]

The video don't look like its really showing much of my problems. Except a cut out in the square 8.

   That definitely sounds like fuel starvation, not a "Fox burp" type quit. If you have only a short time to work on it, I would suggest a Sullivan RST-4 clunk tank, set up for suction. It's inexpensive, available everywhere, and should definely allow the engine to run through the maneuvers. You will have to be a bit more careful about fuel measurements, because you can't cut it off by your actions. And recall that merely getting through the entire flight without crashing/underrunning/overrunning/losing pattern points will usually put you in the mix to win in Intermediate because many of your competitors will screw it up somehow.

   Just a coaching note, nothing to do with the engine run - watch yourself on getting anxious or impatient in the repetitive maneuvers, because you are consistently allowing the sizes to get smaller as the maneuvers go on. This makes it much more difficult, because the airplane is slowing down even at the best of times, and you are squeezing it tighter, so it slows down even faster.

    That may be an element of the engine issue, too, because your are really jamming it and moving very slowly at the end of the square 8. I would speculate that the greatly reduced speed, the altitude, and the extreme drag of maneuver might be causing the fuel to slosh forward enough to uncover the pickup. Not to beat the same dead horse again, but - with the gigantic flaps acting like airbrakes, and the wildly non-linear control response, that exacerbates the effect. But you definitely should expect the engine to keep running.

    Your maneuver appear to be generally small, which is good in and of itself, but if the airplane, or your skills, aren't up to the task of dealing with the effects, you might be better off making them bigger until you get a bit more sorted out, and for sure, don't let them get smaller as they go along.

      You are doing pretty good, I think that looks like a competitive intermediate flight, as long as you can keep the engine running the whole time and not forget anything.

    Brett

[Ken Culbertson]

Yes intermediate. How did you slow it to 1/4 speed? With it lifting it seemes to cause it to want to cut out when the fuel is low, that's a bit tense in the overheads wondering if it's going to shut off.

Thanks by the way.  It's a mobius camera, hit or miss on getting it pointed in the right direction. Just a local ballfield, I cross my fingers evertime I go there that no one is using the field.

Chris

I didn't turn the sound on.  I was just concentrating on the trim.  YouTube on my computer has a settings button.  You can change both speed and resolution if the video supports it.  Yours would go to 1028 dpi and slow to 1/4 speed.  Little gear like button on the bottom right.  Nothing like seeing your pattern in slow motion!

This is personal preference but, since I use the cardinal airfoil it might be of some value.  I reduce my flap size and movement.  My flaps have about a 1/2" shorter chord and I use a 2-3 ratio.  I doesn't float.  Keep in mind that it is just me and I could find you 10 experts that would agree and 10 that would say I am crazy - they would all be right.

Ken

This is the Tank Brett is talking about. (It actually sits about 3/4" closer to the engine)  I run pressure but I have run it pure suction as well.  The plane is not very heavy and I can run a fast 4 with great line tension without the engine ever missing a beat right up to the point it quits and Brett is right, you have to measure the fuel in competition because you can't kill it.  I can get a full pattern on 3 1/2 to 4oz depending on the time of day. On 5% I get absolutely no warning before it quits.  On 10% I get a little burp just before it quits.  I included the other picture because this is a Cardinal wing stretched to 60".

[Brett Buck]

This is personal preference but, since I use the cardinal airfoil it might be of some value.  I reduce my flap size and movement.  My flaps have about a 1/2" shorter chord and I use a 2-3 ratio.  I doesn't float.  Keep in mind that it is just me and I could find you 10 experts that would agree and 10 that would say I am crazy - they would all be right.

   I would agree strenuously (having already tried it on an airplane that won a National Championship the week after we did it) but that is not the most pressing issue right now. The engine run is the top priority, because as long as the engine keeps running and he doesn't have a brain-fade, he will probably get a trophy.

     Brett

[Ken Culbertson]

   I would agree strenuously (having already tried it on an airplane that won a National Championship the week after we did it) but that is not the most pressing issue right now. The engine run is the top priority, because as long as the engine keeps running and he doesn't have a brain-fade, he will probably get a trophy.

     Brett

I agree.  Around here it would be a 1st place.  We are wofully short on intermediates!

[Chris Fretz]

I actually had a clunk tank set up to try the other day but I was just so engulfed in the wing flip I never gave it a try.  I was also mesmerized by the flip that I added an extra 8 watching it flip.  Brain-fade is a real struggle when you're focused on something else.

Anyway I did try the clunk tank and I'm getting consistent runs now. Although it's a 6oz clunk, I seem to be using 4 1/2ish for the pattern. I don't think I'll get it trimmed any better without some experienced hands on help. I'll have to live with it and hope for the best.

Thanks for all the help guys.

[Carl Cisneros]

Chris

DON'T FRACK WITH THE MOTOR/TANK SET UP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Leave it right where it is.

Don't pull out of the first wing over to inverted like that again!!!!!!!!
It scared the frack out of me and I was just watching the video.  LOL

Carl

[Chris Fretz]

Chris

DON'T FRACK WITH THE MOTOR/TANK SET UP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Leave it right where it is.

Don't pull out of the first wing over to inverted like that again!!!!!!!!
It scared the frack out of me and I was just watching the video.  LOL

Carl

Simmer down Carl lol! The motor is set up exactly like my Nobler now, I guess I wasn't ment to use metal uniflow tanks. I'm happy with the run just not the trim of the airplane.

Brain-fade again on the wingover, recording video and flying at the same time takes too much concentration away from flying. I'm glad I made your evening thrilling at least. 

Chris

[Carl Cisneros]

yeah   no s _ _ t.  LOL

now if the cable were working so I could watch some TV tonight......................

[Chris Fretz]

yeah   no s _ _ t.  LOL

now if the cable were working so I could watch some TV tonight......................

Funny thing my power just went out

[Ken Culbertson]

Anyway I did try the clunk tank and I'm getting consistent runs now. Although it's a 6oz clunk, I seem to be using 4 1/2ish for the pattern. I don't think I'll get it trimmed any better without some experienced hands on help. I'll have to live with it and hope for the best.

The 6 oz is perfect for the OS46LA.  You can put in whatever you need.  Engine sure sounds better and you seem to fly it better.  Nice rounds.  Expert quality horizontal 8.  You won't be intermediate long.  You can see the float in slow motion, mostly outside corners but I did not see any "trim" problem, just the float.  I am betting on too much flap.  It almost acts like you have more flap than elevator.  You can do really nice rounds that way but corners suffer.

I really like the video.  I am going to have to do one of my patterns soon.

Ken

[Chris Fretz]

The 6 oz is perfect for the OS46LA.  You can put in whatever you need.  Engine sure sounds better and you seem to fly it better.  Nice rounds.  Expert quality horizontal 8.  You won't be intermediate long.  You can see the float in slow motion, mostly outside corners but I did not see any "trim" problem, just the float.  I am betting on too much flap.  It almost acts like you have more flap than elevator.  You can do really nice rounds that way but corners suffer.

I really like the video.  I am going to have to do one of my patterns soon.

Ken

Thanks Ken! I just said trim problems meaning that float it does. I don't know the right lingo lol. Ill make up smaller flaps and try that after Brodaks.

Chris

[Ken Culbertson]

Thanks Ken! I just said trim problems meaning that float it does. I don't know the right lingo lol. Ill make up smaller flaps and try that after Brodaks.

Chris

I flew this AM with on of our Experts that flies a Cardinal for practice and in profile.  I asked him about the trim and he said he had trimmed 1/4" off of the flaps and switched to a 2-3 ratio.  Runs the OS46LA too.

Good Luck - Ken

[Chris Fretz]

I flew this AM with on of our Experts that flies a Cardinal for practice and in profile.  I asked him about the trim and he said he had trimmed 1/4" off of the flaps and switched to a 2-3 ratio.  Runs the OS46LA too.

Good Luck - Ken

Thanks for info Ken!

Chris