New Member with hopefully not so boring questions.....

[YellowJacket]

Hello All, I am new to the forum and was directed here by the nice people at Brodak who said you all were the best. So the short story is that I am back into C/L building/flying after a long hiatus due to my career and personal life, now finding time to enjoy the hobby I so dearly love.  I even built a "model shop" in the backyard so my wife and I can build and hang out together (yes, I have her building 1/2 A planes now and she just finished her first - a Sig Staggerwing bipe, that I also built many years ago).  So I did as much homework as I could but still have some issues/questions that I need experience and wisdom to sort out...any advice or suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

1) I have three kits (two purposefully purchased - a. Brodak Focke-Wulf b. Sig Super Chipmunk and c. an impulse buy on eBay for an old Sterling Corsair that I just had to have)
 
2) my Uncle (who is responsible for love of this hobby) gave me a McCoy .35 Red Head, I then purchased another used McCoy .35 that I researched and is apparently a "Series 21" that feels more robust but is heavier, and also purchased a used OS Max .25 FP from someone when this came up serendipitously in conversation

3) TRYING to FIGURE OUT WHICH ENGINE to PUT in EACH PLANE - K&B 40s have not been available at MECOA for a long time so I had to buy used, although my preference was to help keep our hobby alive by purchasing new

3.1) Need to get the exhaust outside the aluminum cowling of the Sterling Corsair so trying to find a tongue muffler for the engine that should go in that plane, and "ditto" for the Super Chipmunk's fiberglass cowling which has always been my favorite since I was a kid but never able to build - is going to be my masterpiece (all will be covered in silk BTW).

3.2) McCoys seem to have disparate opinions of their quality and longevity, but I have already learned I need to JB weld the prop thrust washer to the crankcase on the series 21 and also use at least 25% oil (will probably go to 28% for good measure??)

3.3) weight seems to be an issue with the series 21 on that Corsair when I place it on the mounting beams (I am at a stopping point in its construction because I have built everything else on the plan and the fuse cannot go any further until I settle on an engine).

3.4) If running these McCoys rich, will they adequately fly the Focke-Wulf and Super Chipmunk if built strongly (I tend to reinforce many things to "beef up" any load bearing joints and silkspan the wood as well for added strength).  If they will, the weight problem is solved and I can put the OS in the Corsair.  However, what I have read in my homework that the OS .25 FP outperforms a Fox 35 using a 10-4 or 10-3 prop, and Fox outperforms McCoy - if true, does that mean I should put the OS in the Super Chipmunk which will probably be my heaviest plane with largest wingspan and just put a ton of tail weight in the Corsair??? 

So you can see, there are dilemmas here and I would really appreciate some guidance here as I try do what I always wanted to do years ago when I could only afford to build and fly 1/2A, and that was to build substantive aircraft with large motors and fly with long wires instead of short, Dacron lines.     

There are many more "nuance" questions I could ask about props and such for these but at the risk of already making eyes roll with what I have asked so far, I will bow out now and throw many thanks to anyone who has time for me....

[Ken Culbertson]

Welcome to the best place on the planet to get your questions answered.  Be patient and every point you addressed will get answered.  I can speak to only one, well maybe 2.  I ran McCoy & Fox side by side for a number of years.  IMHO a freshly broken in McCoy will outperform a Fox but not for long.  I got between 50-100 flights out of my McCoys but they were so cheap back then that it was not worth rebuilding them.

My other "Been there Done That" is the Chipmunk.  Mine, and some others I knew of really needed more power that the Fox or even a new McCoy had unless they were extremely light.  Great flying plane but overhead tension was an issue.  Your OS 25 may pull it if it is a good one but if you can get your hands on an OS46LA I think you will be very happy with the plane and motor.

The rest I will leave to those who know better.

" I even built a "model shop" in the backyard so my wife and I can build and hang out together..."

The Stunt Flier's dream   I had to build my shop in the backyard to keep my wife from throwing everything out when I was at work!

Ken

[Jim Svitko]

I will go along with the suggestion of the Chipmunk and an LA 46.  If the wood in that Chipmunk kit is a bit heavy, and you tend to build on the heavy side anyway, you will be glad you chose the LA 46, especially on a hot and humid day.  A Magnum 36, if you can find one, is also a good choice.  I have a Magnum 36 in a 48 ounce Gieseke Nobler and the Magnum 36 has no problem hauling the Nobler with ease.

Put the McCoys on planes that are smaller and lighter than the Chipmunk.

I have no experience with the OS 25 FP so someone else will have to make a recommendation.

[Gary Dowler]

The 25FP will most certainly out perform the Fox 35, and run better doing it, but do not put a 10-5 prop on it. Where the Fox ran at perhaps 9600 with this prop, the OS thrives on RPM.  Put a 9-4 or 9.5-4 APC in it, launch it at 12,500 and it will come alive. It will be more than adequate for that Corsair. I think Brodak makes different length mufflers for it that should clear the cowl.
As tonoil, I've never had a McCoy, but I can assure you the Fox engine needs a lot of castor in it. Not just oil , most stuff you see seems to be a 50/50 synthetic/castor mix. This will not suffice. Bring oil contentvto 30% by adding straight castor and your Fox engines will run good and not overheat. The castor provides the cooling they need.

Gary

[Tim Wescott]

0. The Staggerwing is cool.  I had one.  I remember it being involved to build, harder to fly than the Skyray, and easier to damage.  But, it's still cool.

1. How accomplished a pilot are you, and what do you intend to do?  I'd start with the profile if you're just jumping into stunt, or think you may have regressed in your flying skills -- it's easier to fix.

3. McCoy engines are great nostalgia pieces.  Just like Ford Flathead V-8 engines, they're as great now as they were back then.  And just like we have car engines with 50 more years worth of development to them, we have modern Schnuerle engines.  I plan on using a McCoy in competition some day -- in an old timer.  For PA, I fly a 46LA, and would buy a purpose-built stunt engine (PA or RoJett) if I had the $$.

Don't mess with the older engines unless you want to.  Get modern stunt engines and use them right (meaning, flatter props and higher RPMs and oh my this flies different).

The 25FP might be big enough for the Focke-Wulf (or the Sterling Corsair -- I don't know how big that one is).  I cast vote #3 for a 46LA for the Chipmonk. 

3.1  See Lee Machine Shop or RSM industries for muffler choices.  Or ask on the classifieds section -- someone may have a used something.

[Tom Vieira]

man, watch out for that sig super chipmunk.  I started building one at the beginning of the winter, and I darn near stomped on it when the wing came out  completely wrong....  the directions really kinda bite, and I think I had it shimmed wrong when putting on the sheeting.....

[YellowJacket]

Thanks to all so far for your advice and I will summarize what I think I am hearing after I clarify a tad about my intentions and skill level.

My flying skills are not more than 1/2A flying and not much stunt. So the Brodak profile Focke Wulf (46" span and rated for .28 to .40 engines) was to be my "learner" while I patiently build my Chipmunk as beautifully as the picture on the box that has always intrigued me (BTW, thank you for heads up about paying close attention during the build!).

The Sterling Corsair just caught my eye because I always wanted one when I was really young and I love WWI and WWII scale aircraft.  This will be a "looker" with lots of scale detail and NO STUNT flying, just nice circles that won't crash it and be a great tool for inspiring other young people who see it and think how "cool" it is like I always did.  Besides, it was designed for "Navy Carrier" events back in the day before throttles and flaps were an integral part of the competition as I read about recently.  So its just a show bird for minimal risk flying.

So now for the summary:

1) Put the OS .25 FP in the Focke-Wulf
2) Put the McCoy Red Head in the Corsair (36" span but built like a tank internally with all balsa sheeted external surfaces that are silkspaned and silk covered wings) because it is lighter than the Series 21 and will not be run much, minimizing opportunity to have to replace it down the road
3) Mount the Series 21 McCoy .35 on a piece of wood and consider it an expensive paper weight (since it will not fly the Chipmunk)
4) Obtain a 40 size motor for the Chipmunk, preferably an OS 46 LA.

Does this pretty much get it done?


Follow up questions:

1) since it looks like the LA 46 is only available on the secondary market, will a ringed K&B 40 suffice for the Chipmunk so I can buy American?  If it just won't do the job, I will indeed try to find a good, used LA 46

 


 

[Ken Culbertson]

1) since it looks like the LA 46 is only available on the secondary market, will a ringed K&B 40 suffice for the Chipmunk so I can buy American?  If it just won't do the job, I will indeed try to find a good, used LA 46

There is a reason everybody suggests the OS46LA.  It is probably the best stunt engine ever built in it's price range.  There are bunches of them available on EBay and you could probably get a perfectly good one from someone here.   I am sure Randy Smith has several available.  Treat them right and they last forever,  well at least a long time.

Ken

[goozgog]

Welcome back Yellow Jacket! 

    When I returned to C/L the first thing
I did was destroy a K&B .61 and a new ST.35 C
by feeding them modern fuel.
I didn't know that modern fuel is blended
for modern ABC engines.

  If you're using older engines, add some castor
to bring the oil% from 17% to about 23%.
If you're running an old McCoy or Fox it should
be 27%.
Lots of info here.

Cheers! - K.

[James Holford]

Welcome back


 I'm gona be the oddball n say
46LA for all 3

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

[Dave Hull]

YJ,

Glad to have another active modeler!

Do you know which OS 25FP that you have? There is an older one that has an iron piston and steel liner, and a more modern one with a plated liner and aluminum piston. The older one will need more oil--something like 28% castor is a good starting point. The newer one won't need as much, and would tolerate a castor/synthetic mix.

I agree that of the engines you listed, the FP should go into the profile FW190.

The series 21 McCoy is not inferior to earlier McCoys except in terms of weight. It should run as good as a redhead in comparable condition. But there is no getting around the increased weight. I am puzzled by your comment that--

"I have already learned I need to JB weld the prop thrust washer to the crankcase on the series 21." 

Doing this would seem to ensure it becomes a paper weight.

As far as building heavy planes, remember that a "beefed up" plane will hit the ground with more momentum and may suffer more than one build strictly to the plans. You should use the appropriate adhesives for the types of joints but there is no need to put on extra. In general, modern kit designs are pretty well engineered, and don't need general beefing up. The strength is in good fitting joints.

If you cover in silk, you will have to be careful of introducing warps and also careful to avoid putting on so much paint that it weighs a ton. Personally, I think the look of colored silk with clear dope can look really attractive.

Happy building and flying!

Dave

[YellowJacket]

Big Dave,

Thanks for your input and I must admit I have a bit of OCD  when it comes to airplane engine in that I can't stand to see one sitting there and not burning glow fuel while bolted to a plane.  So I have tried to find the best spots possible for my engines, with just one "odd man out", the Series 21 McCoy.  I am now fully convinced that I need to buy a LA .46 for my Chipmunk and only fly it when I am skilled enough with the Focke-Wulf to not break it up.

Now for your questions/concerns:

1) JB weld on the prop thrust washer is needed because it is free spinning on the prop shaft, not keyed like most, and is infamous for coming lose when you bump the prop for ignition (what I found out AFTER I bought the engine LOL).  I have not tried to start mine but noticed the prop free wheeling whenever I tried to rotate it.  So after a lot of research on various forums, discovered that this is the last of the Testors engines, was referred to as "Series 21" and was infamous for props slipping loose no matter how tightly you torqued the prop nut.  I only paid $25 for it including shipping, has very good compression but weighs A LOT.  So one guy says he overcame the "prop slipping problem" by putting JB weld on the prop thrust washer (you have to scuff it up first), successfully adhering it to the crank shaft and no more prop slippage.   So maybe I will find another vintage Sterling kit (or similar) to put it in one day, but will refrain from flying stunt with it.

For your point about building stout and adding weight, I do not disagree at all with your logic and I am fully aware that even though I am only 50, I like to do things the hard way, the old fashioned way with lots of carpenters wood glue, epoxy and sanding sealer/clear/colored dope, because I just think it makes me feel more satisfied.  I also like passing down old time building techniques to my sons and wife, and basically anyone who is interested, because it is a part of our hobby history.

I don't doubt for a moment that there are better, easier, and stronger ways to do things with less time and less hassle (e.g., I did build R/C for several years in my 20s and used heat shrink Monokote), but I found out that I am a traditional man and a bit of a purist I guess.  Yes, my planes are heavier than others, but they look really good and can take a ferocious beating.

Anyway, I have not covered in silk before but my uncle has spoken about it so much that I must do it...and will certainly be wary of warpage as you pointed out (found a couple youtube videos for learning how different it is to silk span).

I do hope that me explaining my MO is not perceived as being defensive, as I feel so welcomed by this site already with the responses I have received.  I just wanted to share my own self awareness that I MIGHT do things that are NOT the most expedient or "logical" from a pure Xs and Os perspective, but that is just part of my charm trying to make something work when it was told it couldn't be done

But as I said, the votes are in and it is clear that this guy is buying an OS .46 LA for his prized Chipmunk 



 

[YellowJacket]

Hey Tim,

You are right about the Staggerwing being more involved than it should be, but I taught my wife how to do the the things the plans don't tell her to do, especially about beefing up joints and shimming things when necessary (like the wing struts).  So yes, this took her a long time to build and she insisted on doing everything, even bending loops into her lead out wires.

But it is so strong now with cap strips on the struts (they were too short anyway) and filet sections at all critical joints, she will hold up nicely if she crashes and has power to spare with the baby bee I gave her (can even be flown with an .020). 

Roger that on the engine suggestion for the Chipmunk and I will put the 25 FP in the Focke-Wulf but do my very best to build as light as I can 

The Red Head will power my awesome Corsaire and it will not be doing any stunts, just eye catching circles.

Thanks for your response!

Greg

[YellowJacket]

Big Dave,

I was remiss in answering your questions about what type of OS 25 I have...goodness, I simply don't know.

Is there a visual way I can tell?  The guy who sold it to me told me I would need at least 25% oil for the McCoys I had but the VP 10/22 fuel I bought would be fine for the OS 25 he sold me.  So, I would presume this means I have the later version...??

Good question!

[Dave Hull]

YJ,

The early FP had a vertical ridge on the bypass outside the case. The later FP is smooth/blended. Here is a view of the later case, taken from the OS website:

     https://www.osengines.com/parts/images/22351010.jpg

Here is a view of the early FP:

     https://www.bing.com/images/search?view=detailV2&id=58FACE01663D260ADB360A66534C192E09BDFCAC&thid=OIP.5rGeSl-6FgQc_ptVN63lxAHaGy&mediaurl=http%3A%2F%2Fthumb.zeppy.io%2F00%2Fs%2FMTEzNVgxMjM4%2Fz%2FEtEAAOSwg0BZxWRp%2F%24_57%2Fos-max-fp-25-r-c-engine.jpg&exph=1135&expw=1238&q=OS+Max+25FP&selectedindex=0&ajaxhist=0&vt=0&eim=1

If the case looks like the early FP but has ball bearings, then you actually have an FSR, which is a whole different animal. A ton of power, but probably not suitable for stunt unless you figure out some kind of pipe setup. Pretty tough going there.


Dave

[john e. holliday]

Yellowjacket, in my years of flying and running of engines is that if try to get that last bit of RPM out of it, it may not last long, even if the fuel does have the correct amount of castor oil.   I have engines that have been run on different types of fuel with 10% nitro.   The secret to me is to run them a little rich.   Even my Fox's are different for each one it seems, especially the stunt versions.   I have one that will turn 15,000 RPM an several that I'm doing good to get them up to 9500 RPM.  The thing about castor oil in the fuel is you may have to tear the engine down and clean the varnish out.    Now the McCoys I have I have not had a problem so far with the thrust washer slipping.   I just make sure both surfaces are clean.   

[Larry Renger]

Send a PM to John Wright about McCoy conversions. He puts the series 21guts in the Red Head case and gets improved performance in a light engine.

[Air Ministry .]

Good idea on the Mcoy .

The S 21 , if its got compresion , are good , some say . If the pieces fit straight in the redhead 35 case ,
most of which lasted almost 10 runs , due to not 28 % oil - youd have a good ' classic ' type engine .

The infernal K&B 40s arnt bad .But L McDs were highly reworked .
These later ones are same RC or CL bar carb / intake . ABC . Almost a differant engine to the earlier ones ( Series 70 / 71 etc etc . )

Front Ends vastly stronger . Well spoken of by those who use them . Good profile Cardinal engine . Which'd be a good plane for you .





New Cheap swap meet ones'd be o.k.

[Fredvon4]

os 46 ready to go for $90

https://stunthanger.com/smf/classifieds-92/o-s-max-46-la-and-enya-29-model-5224-for-sale/?topicseen

[YellowJacket]

ok Dave,

We were out of town with my boys this weekend and I just now confirmed I have the "older" crankcase.  Now, at the risk of discovering I purchased yet another model boat anchor that I can't use for flying, can you please tell me how I determine if it is "FSR" (a.k.a. no bueno) and non-FSR (a.k.a can use to fly planes)?

Dave
[/quote]If the case looks like the early FP but has ball bearings, then you actually have an FSR, which is a whole different animal. A ton of power, but probably not suitable for stunt unless you figure out some kind of pipe setup. Pretty tough going there.

This now has me more than a bit worried as perhaps in my blissful excitement to purchase some engines for the kits I am building, it is sounding more and more like I am the not-so-proud owner of 3 museum pieces.

Any help would be more than greatly appreciated!  And if it turns out I don't have an FSR and can indeed put it on my Focke-Wulf, can you tell me where in creation I can purchase a 28% all castor fuel?  I scoured the internet before I found VP 10/22 and I then I learned I had to to add 5 oz of Sig castor to it for the McCoys to get to 25% (but it was already 11% castor and 11% Klotz syn).  I can add another 5 oz castor to bring it to 28%, but again, it will be a blend and sounds like I have 4 gallons of useless fuel.

Before I share this with my wife, I would like to figure out just how bad my mistakes were and if there is any way I can salvage some of this???

But I am grateful for the information even if it makes me feel a bit ridiculous.

Greg

[Steve Helmick]

Having run a late model K&B #4055 in a Humongus for awhile, I'd strongly suggest getting an OS .46LA. The K&B is a bunch heavier and didn't have as much umph. The good thing is that the mounting bolt pattern is the same, and the mufflers interchange. The .46LA is perfect for a Cardinal profile...not a bad flying airplane, but the flaps are too wide by 1/2"+.    Steve

[YellowJacket]

All, thank you very much for all of your input.  I was able to contact the nice gentlemen from whom I purchased the 25 FP and he explained it was the iron piston and cylinder version, NOT FSR.  So, I can relax now and use that motor with my VP 10/22 without any concern of anything other than flying as that is all that motor has seen since new.

Now, Larry Renger gave me a rather intriguing suggestion that I swap the internals of my two McCoys.  At first, I thought it was a bit "out there" and waaaaaaaay over my head, but I found some really good historical threads on that very subject throughout the internet (read for a at least 3 hours) and now I am excited to do that very thing.  However, I want to do the full monty that includes the cylinder sleeve (not just the piston and con rod) but requires milling the Red head case, and which also means I need somebody who knows what they are doing...thank you for John's name and I will be contacting him shortly!

Now, based on my research, this conversion will be taking the good that was "designed in" to the McCoy 35 (dykes ring and better internal metal including stronger connecting rod) with the Red Head's light weight and compact dimensions.  Together this is supposed to be on par with a Fox 35 (not trying to start a holy war, just summarizing the crux of what I educated myself ) and will offer a true 4-2-4 flight experience (and to think that just one week ago I did not even know what that expression meant) that will last indefinitely if I take care of it by running rich and not trying to squeeze max RPM out of it.

Now, that I have been blessed with information on how to salvage my McCoys and make a nice engine, I feel like it would be an acceptable match for putting that in my Brodak Focke-Wulf (46" span, profile fuse) so I can learn stunt flying with a large aircraft (relative to my historical experience of 1/2 A).  The reason I say this is because it is smaller and lighter than the Sig Super Chipmunk (52" span, built up and sheeted fuse, wheel pants, etc.) and it clearly shows a Fox 35 inside the cowl as the recommended engine.  So if a Fox 35 won NATS in that Chipmunk, surely that McCoy can pull the lighter and smaller Focke-Wulf.

So, with that epiphany that everyone with their suggestions helped provide, I have actually come full circle on my engine configuration choices and will put the OS 25 FP in the Sterling Corsair that is just for crowd pleasing, scale beauty and gentle circles (this was Ron's original suggestion to me when I purchased the OS 25 from him), get my McCoys "Frankensteined" by somebody for the Focke-Wulf, and then make a later decision about the Chipmunk after I see how the Focke-Wulf behaves as it will be a little while before I can even start that Chipmunk kit anyway.

The best part of this whole thing is the relief of being able to use these motors, use a common fuel between them that I had already purchased (except will add castor to the 10/22 until I reach 28% for the McCoy only), and will have the experience of a 4-2-4 to compare to the "wet 2" that apparently the OS will be giving me (still not quite sure what exactly that means but have an idea) before I decide what goes in to my Chipmunk.  The only thing I can't standardize are props....from what was shared the OS 25 likes a 9x4 and the McCoys like a 10x5 (apparently there were some 10x6 props made by Top Flight and one other that were actually 10x5s and the McCoys last longer with  slightly less pitch).   

So I want to thank all of you again for sharing your knowledge with me, giving me so much food for thought that I had to chip away at it on my own, take the best of what was given to me and arrive at a confident conclusion with a clear vision of what I will be doing.

I will also post pics of my planes (the Corsair is almost ready for silk) as they approach completion and will see if there is particular forum for that on Stunthanger.

Greg

   

[Dave Hull]

Greg,

You are picking up good info and catching on quick--but there always seems to be more to know. Most guys are happy to tell you what is working for them, but there is generally more than one way to get things done. On some things, you need to get it pretty close to right, or suffer the bad outcomes. And a detail missed might be the one that mattered. Hence, the reason I asked whether it was the older FP or the newer. They are not the same engine, they are from different eras, and the differences in operation matter. Much of what you will read or hear from guys applies to the newer engine. Specifically, the fuel mix, the rpms and the prop. Ask them if they are running their recommended setup on the iron piston version, and consider that as you set up your own engines.

Regarding the .25FP:

"...the 25 FP and he explained it was the iron piston and cylinder version, NOT FSR.  So, I can relax now and use that motor with my VP 10/22 without any concern...."

There are specific reasons that certain engines need one thing, or something else. In the case of the older FPs, they have an unplated steel liner, and a fine-grain cast iron piston. The older FSR did as well. You can read the details of that elsewhere, but the upshot is that any engine using this older technology combination--which includes all three of your engines--benefits from a higher oil percentage fuel that is based on castor oil. Personally, I wouldn't run any of the three on less than 25% oil.

One reason is that if something in your setup isn't right, or something happens like a clogged fuel filter, or if you just miss the needle valve setting and the engine run goes lean, it may wipe out your engine. An expert might get away with less, but he is pitting his expert skills against that kind of thing happening. And even experts can screw up. Toasted piston and liner fit. The extra castor is a bit of protection against this. Castor behaves differently than synthetic oils in these engines. The castor will continue to protect the running fits even as your motor is getting cooked if something went wrong. Synthetic oil performance degrades too much at very high temps to do this. You must avoid lean engine runs with these engines.

It'll take some time, and maybe some little problems will come up, but you'll get there. Good luck!

Dave

[Ken Culbertson]

Seems like you are making good choices.  The Chipmunk is a wonderful plane in the hands of an accomplished flier but it is not one to learn stunt on.  If you are going to stick with the .35 sized planes you probably want to look into a good .46 someday.  If you are aiming to compete in PA you might want to consider going with a "modern" design with a pipe or electric since they are easier to fly and saving the Chipmunk till your skills are up to it's level.  Then pop in a newer power plant and build it for Classic.  It has always been a favorite of mine.  My brother is a test pilot and knew Art Scholl.  Nothing got you the 10 realism points better that flying a stunt plane in stunt!

FYI - listen to Dave about the Caster.  I doubt that any of us from that era don't remember the moaning sound of a McCoy overheating when it went too lean for too long.  At least with caster, you get a longer time to listen to it begging to quit.  We flew a lot over grass with hand launches, no wheels and nylon props. We would routinely fly them into the ground just to kill the engine.   

Ken

[YellowJacket]

Dave and Ken, thank you for that affirmation and additional advice that was nicely communicated.

You are absolutely spot on that I will wait until my flying skills are where they need to before the Chipmunk is built and flown.  My building skills are far better than my flying skills right now and that Chipmunk kit will be the finest, most beautiful plane I very built at that point (and that is saying something considering my lifelong love of WWI and WII aircraft).  I can only imagine my horror if I augered that Chipmunk into the ground after putting so much of myself into it 

Also, I will indeed up the castor content of my VP 10/22 with 5 oz of Sig castor to bring it to 25% oil and an additional 5 oz of Sig castor for the McCoy when I get it swapped out  .  Speaking of, I have not heard back from John yet about this swap out and not sure if I sent the message to him correctly??  I spelled "John Wright" with a space between so if Larry is reading this or if anyone else knows him and can comment on how to correctly type his name for a PM, please let me know :-)

Thanks!! 

[Larry Renger]

It looks Wright to me. 

It doesn’t look like he frequents the forum, though he is listed as a member.

I will PM you his e-address.