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General control line discussion => Open Forum => Topic started by: Jeremy Chinn on November 21, 2023, 09:18:02 AM
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I built a launch stooge recently. I looked at several others designs on the forum and on the web to find what I thought might work well.
Base is heavy 1/2" ply. Holes for putting 10" stakes in the ground. Old hardware for the mechanism.
I set it up so I can either use a wire loop from the tailwheel/tailspin, or using a string loop around the tail.
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Just a suggestion.
I use a Spectra line for the pull line on my stooge. Works well since there is really little if any stretch with Spectra. I just happened to use 65# test line since I had a bunch of it on hand. And I use the same double loop as I use for my flying lines to attach to the stooge. My stooge line is 70' long and on a normal plastic line spool.
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Great suggestion. I've heard of other lines stretching- and I love Spectra!
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Great suggestion. I've heard of other lines stretching- and I love Spectra!
And I use hi-vis yellow color. Easier to see on the ground.
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I'm a cheapy and use clothes line from the hardware store. Yes it streches a little but that means it gets out of my road when I drop it. Remember to always anchor your handle for down elevator and also always walk behind the plane an line while going to the handle. Have fun. D>K
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I'm a cheapy and use clothes line from the hardware store. Yes it streches a little but that means it gets out of my road when I drop it. Remember to always anchor your handle for down elevator and also always walk behind the plane an line while going to the handle. Have fun. D>K
Doc, when I was a rookie a few years ago I initially used clothesline for my stooge. On my 1st attempt the line stretched so much that I could not launch the model.
I immediately went to Spectra and never looked back. Actually, cheaper than clothesline. I use 65# test Spectra for some of my flying lines and purchase like a 300yd roll. The single stooge line costs maybe $4-$5.
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I immediately went to Spectra and never looked back.
Rather than looking back, look down to see the Spectra wrapped around your ankles. Heed Doc's advice and use a stretchy string that will spring out of the way when you release it.
Another suggestion is to mount the mechanism with the spring in the middle of the board, rather than at the front. Then the board doesn't rotate when you pull the string.
Better yet is to use Mark Wood's system of a car door lock solenoid and a garage door opener radio, both cheap from Amazon or Banggood. Then you can mount the release on the front of the board, neither you nor your airplane will get tangled in string, and you don't have to roll up the string when you leave the field. I don't use this system, because I leave my stooge on the field, and I don't want the electronics to get wet.
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Howard also leaves his box with handles and lines on the field, from what I've read. That didn't work well.
Stretchy stooge line is definitely a problem, but can be solved a lot cheaper than Spectra. I use a plastic Stanley Chalkline reel, but replaced the OEM string (nylon?) with 40 lb test Dacron fishing line I had on hand. Not much stretch, and not a problem. I pull the cord and toss the reel about 15'-20', so I don't get tangled in the stooge line. If you've done it right (by folding the crank handle), no harm done. y1 Steve
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Rather than looking back, look down to see the Spectra wrapped around your ankles. Heed Doc's advice and use a stretchy string that will spring out of the way when you release it.
Another suggestion is to mount the mechanism with the spring in the middle of the board, rather than at the front. Then the board doesn't rotate when you pull the string.
Better yet is to use Mark Wood's system of a car door lock solenoid and a garage door opener radio, both cheap from Amazon or Banggood. Then you can mount the release on the front of the board, neither you nor your airplane will get tangled in string, and you don't have to roll up the string when you leave the field. I don't use this system, because I leave my stooge on the field, and I don't want the electronics to get wet.
Never ever had a problem getting the stooge line tangled w/ my feet. I toss the reel away from me at launch. Pretty obvious solution.
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A plastic tent peg a piece of aluminum window channel and a chalk line reel. Keep it simple.
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While I don't inhale electric motors, I do dabble in the stuff for accessory items.
This 2.4 launcher sure beats winding out & in clothes line at every flying session. The second generation features a recessed power switch and an inside servo with a bellcrank to keep fuel off the release servo.
It has been successfully flight tested.
Because it works by weight alone, you do not realy upon stakes driven into soft ground.
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My yank-cord stooge is about to be electrified. Until it is push-button enabled, I yank, drop the line, and step back then left-step as the plane takes off. This gets me a few extra feet away from the tangent of flight box, stooge and the end of the line.
The only time the line can be a problem is during descent (preferably "landing")...if I don't anticipate, the plane lands just before the line and can hang up vs run over it. I don't worry about the line during unplanned "landings." LL~
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I use a 13 lb steel plate with a cord meant for a kite. With the 4 rubber feet on the bottom I can just put it down on any surface the model won't move it. I don't need to drive a spike or large nail into the ground
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6wqTIJkbN3k
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Mr. Fred,
Thanks for the weight of your ballast. You fly bigger than I do, so if my weights exceed yours, I'm good.
I "think" I'm through "making." I suspect I may have some adjusting to do.
https://youtu.be/zEwya4iyjPI
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More than one happy camper has walked to their stooge only to see the plane take off before they got to the handle.....stooge didn't move or fail. The tailwheel wire and all came out of the fuselage.
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Any SLD (self launching device) aka, a "stooge", needs a fail safe in the form of the handle staked to the ground via the safety thing on the down line.
On concrete a weighted device would be needed.
When using a pull cord device on concrete, in addition to the engine power, the pull force of the trigger cord is factor to be considered.
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More than one happy camper has walked to their stooge only to see the plane take off before they got to the handle.....stooge didn't move or fail. The tailwheel wire and all came out of the fuselage.
Sounds like the stooge was not the launching device.
Ken
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I always test the wire attached to the model and then the stooge before I fire up the engine. The Stooge I have can hold back a .60 or .90 powered model so any smaller model gives the 2:1 margin. You would be surprised how much pull it takes to get the 12+ lbs steel plate to move on asphalt when it has the four rubber feet. I don't use a lot, but I keep in the car just in case I get there and nobody else is flying.
I have looked at the 2.4 ghz release option but the pull cord is easy to do and pack.
Fred
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I flew with a stooge for a few years, but he moved to Reno.
Larry, Buttfucco Stunt Team