No instructions with the polyspan?

[Paul Taylor]

So the only instructions I see in the roll of polyspan is to make sure you have the shinny side up. And to use heat.

With monokote there is a instructions on how to take down the corners then pull from the middle of the wing and work our way out. No instructions like this came with the poly.

So what is the best way to lay it down. Work from one end and work your out?
I danced around my wing for some time. I got it down, but with a few wrinkles. I hope the heat gun takes it out.

I did do a search here and found some do's and don't but now really a how to.

I think I am going to like it if I can get it to look good. I would have been done with the wing if I did monokote. Just when I figure out how to kind of do a good job with monokote, I change over to poly.

[W.D. Roland]

Paul
My understanding is the Polyspan is same or similar to Coverite.
The difference being the Polyspan has no adhesive and the Coverite did.

I always put the Coverite down in same manner as Monokote only difference was being careful not to over shrink and warp or crush lite structure.

Do not sand the bare material as it will fuzz up and the fibers of fuzz will not ever break off!
Can cause a situation where the only cure is pounds of filler to make smooth again.

Thats all I can say about Polyspan other one day I hope to try it out!

David

[Tim Wescott]

If it's the same stuff as what Hobby Lobby sells, then it doesn't shrink a whole lot.  You have to leave most of the wrinkles out while laying it down, and plan on just tautening it a little bit with the heat gun.

So -- maybe try it out on a section first.

[W.D. Roland]

Tim
Think your right on that now that am digging deeper in old memories.

The Cloth type Coverite is what crushes and warps.

Will have to go look at some rolls of material to get the 2 names of Coverites 2 products straight.

Both make good pre installed trash bags for crashes.

David

[Rob Killick]

Hi Paul ,

Try these links  (hope I don't get into trouble doing this).

http://www.faimodelsupply.com/starline-polyspan3.htm

http://www.rsmdistribution.com/articles/polyspan3.pdf

Rob K.

[john e. holliday]

Well I trid to post to this.  All the typing and pictures gone to cyber space.   Send me a PM and I send how I do it.  Basically it is just like using silk span, doing the covering dry with little sanding.

[Bill Adair]

Hi Doc,

Email on the way, but I'm posting it here just in case.

Old Bill


Hi Doc,

I've been considering Polyspan for my next Baby Clown ARC, and would very much appreciate reading about your methods for applying, and finishing Polyspan.

Also have some Coverite Coverlite to try, and will probably use that first, since I already picked up the Balsarite, and Ironex the directions recommend.

Was at K-Mart earlier this evening, and noticed that they now have Krylon water based Latex paint in 8oz, and 1qt cans. It comes in limited colors, with gloss, or satin finish at $3.29 for the 8oz cans. Water clean up, and thinning, has got to be the greatest thing since shelled peanuts, and twist off beer caps! <G>

Thanks for any help Doc.

Old Bill (74 in a couple months)

[bill bischoff]

Go to the Control Line Central web page. Find the place to click on "general control line information" and then click on "covering with poly tissue" or something like that. There are the complete instructions that come with the product.

You can also go to the carrier section, find the thread about the Dumas Crusader for Nostalgia profile, and somewhere in the middle it gets into a discussion of polyspan. I know because that is my post, my airplane, and my first attempt at polyspan. It came out great, and I will be using it again on the next two planes on the building board. It's very much like using silkspan except for the heat shrinking. I primarily tried it because I was looking to get a nice, fully sealed finish with no seams to lift or loosen over time, like you can't avoid with iron on's.

There is probably a lot written about it in the building and finishing section also. Install it right side out, don't try to sand it too soon, and be careful with the heat and you'll be fine.

Bill Bischoff

[Steve Helmick]

I don't think there are any instructions with a sheet of silkspan, and know for a fact there is no such thing with Japanese Tissue. Folks have been using Polyspan for about 20 years, so the assumption is that you either already use it, or will find out online. Which you've just done. Now "git 'er done"! Show pictures... Steve

[john e. holliday]

I learned to use silkspan, silk, silray, rayon and nylon, forgot tissue from reading the little booklets that America's Hobby Center in NYC used to have printed.   Also back in the day the magazines would publish articles for such.  Remember an article with pics of the late Carl Goldberg doing microfilm for indoor models.  The old Sterling and Berkeley kits would sometimes have it on the instuctins sheets.  My favorite magazine back then, as it was the only one on the magazine rack, was Young Mens Magazine that I think became Air Trails for Young Men.  They used to have an annual issue which was devoted to the previous years NATS.  Then I found out about a model plane club called The Flying Eagles of Kansas City Kansas. 

I do remember the first Poly-span that I used that was bought from the man that did the article in one of the magazines and was included with a purchase of a roll of the poly-tissue I think he called it. 

[Bill Gruby]

 Paul;

 You already know Polyspan has two sides. To find the side that goes down run it across the back of your havd. The side that goes down will drag.

 Prepare the sorface same as for silkspan. nitrate dope is best.

 Polyspan is put on dry, it will not shrink with water.
 
 Dope all the surfaces that come in contact with wood.

 Pull all the wrinkles that really show up, it is not necessary to get all the small ones.

 When dry at this stage you can heat shrink the polyspan tight.

 Finish the way of your choice.


   I used polyspan on the SDR, great stuff.

 "Billy G"

[Paul Smith]

Here's a project where I recovered an old Clown from low temp film to Poly Span.

I put plenty of clear on the structure, let it dry, and sanded it smooth. Then I dry-covered it with Poly Span by brushing thinner around the outer edges and let the dope on the wood stick it down.

For the tips, I used plastic clips as weights to get the Poly Span to lay down so I could thinner & dope it in place. Cut slits in the Poly to make it  lay down without wrinkles.

You need to use a generous overlap to get the Poly to bend around the edge and stick to the other side.  A bit of finesse with the iron is need to persuade it to turn the corner.   When the edge is stuck down well, us a heat gun to shrink it.

Mine came with an instruction sheet.

[Roger Vizioli]

Paul, as Bill Biscoff said - There is probably a lot written about it in the building and finishing section also. Install it right side out, don't try to sand it too soon, and be careful with the heat and you'll be fine.
Bill Bischoff
[/quote]

The "be careful with the heat" comment is good advice. Initial shrinking, if too aggressive, will cause a tear (looks like a run in the "old nylon stockings") .
Roger v.  

[Paul Taylor]

Got it down. Now to finish it. Thanks guys!

[Russell Shaffer]

Paul, did you do the wingtips also?  How did that work out?

[Paul Smith]

Wingtips?  Not bad!

The stuff doesn't like compound curves, but you can get it to work if you cut it into narrow strips so it doesn't wrinkle.  That principle apples to most coverings (except silk, which will cover any shape).