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Author Topic: Need Help: to Identify Engine Run  (Read 12313 times)

Offline Kafin Noe’man

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Need Help: to Identify Engine Run
« on: July 10, 2024, 07:53:27 AM »
Hi guys, I need your help to identify this engine run.
https://youtu.be/Tel3IdItIEA?si=vUMH_Axwt8Y6beQ6

Does this sound 2-2-2 to you?

The engine is LA 46 with a TT 11x4.5 prop ; ground RPM 10,050.


Best,
Kafin
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I fly: P40, XEBEC, and Cardinal

Offline Dave_Trible

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Re: Need Help: to Identify Engine Run
« Reply #1 on: July 10, 2024, 08:27:52 AM »
That is a full two cycle scream.  Perhaps even a little over lean.  I'd sure open that needle.  We launch FP .40s around 9500 with a prop like that.  Your LA should be pretty similar.


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Online Brett Buck

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Re: Need Help: to Identify Engine Run
« Reply #2 on: July 10, 2024, 08:39:32 AM »
That is a full two cycle scream.  Perhaps even a little over lean.  I'd sure open that needle.  We launch FP .40s around 9500 with a prop like that.  Your LA should be pretty similar.

    Agreed, while the audio quality isn't great,  it seems a bit over-the-top lean.  But it's not too bad, that may be one or two clicks from ideal.

      I don't think you should be setting it by tach, it should be set by listening to it in the maneuvers, the exhaust note goes "flat", it should sound healthier in the maneuvers. This obviously presents a problem for someone who *hasn't* been flying since the early 70's.

     Brett
« Last Edit: July 10, 2024, 08:56:48 AM by Brett Buck »

Offline Colin McRae

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Re: Need Help: to Identify Engine Run
« Reply #3 on: July 10, 2024, 08:45:21 AM »
Strong 2-cycle

I believe your model is a Brodak P40 ARF. The lap time is right at 4.7 seconds which is a little fast. I might suggest reducing the prop pitch to 4 and try 11, 10.5 and 10 diameter props for comparison.

I normally use APC sport props but have used MAS on a couple models which were better on those particular models.  The 10.5 was a MAS 11 that I cut down on a Nobler w/ OS 40LA.

You can also try 62' lines to manage lap time.

Online Brett Buck

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Re: Need Help: to Identify Engine Run
« Reply #4 on: July 10, 2024, 03:16:10 PM »
Strong 2-cycle

I believe your model is a Brodak P40 ARF. The lap time is right at 4.7 seconds which is a little fast. I might suggest reducing the prop pitch to 4 and try 11, 10.5 and 10 diameter props for comparison.

I normally use APC sport props but have used MAS on a couple models which were better on those particular models.  The 10.5 was a MAS 11 that I cut down on a Nobler w/ OS 40LA.

You can also try 62' lines to manage lap time.

   In any case, he needs to get it a bit richer, run it properly set in a range of conditions, and see if it is too fast, too chargey, etc, before making any significant change . 4.7 isn't necessarily a problem as long as it is predictable everywhere in the maneuvers. Typically, with these sorts of engines, if it is too lean it is too "flat" in the maneuvers (which is what both Dave and I figure the problem is in this case) and too rich, to chargey.

     My guess it is really close, and if you get the response right, it will be fine flying 4.8ish. I note that it probably needs to be about that fast to be able to make it through in a lot if conditions, it is not a 46VF in a Trivial Pursuit.

     Brett

Offline Steve Helmick

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Re: Need Help: to Identify Engine Run
« Reply #5 on: July 11, 2024, 12:46:12 AM »
It didn't look to be outrageously fast, but it certainly did seem loud. Like Brett says, a click or two richer should be ok.

I'm kinda envious of your flying field.  y1 Steve
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Online Ken Culbertson

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Re: Need Help: to Identify Engine Run
« Reply #6 on: July 11, 2024, 06:14:44 AM »
Kaffin:

IMHO you do not want to run an LA46 that fast.  This is an LA46 on an 11x6 prop at 9000 rpm pulling a 60oz 650 square inch plane.  It is running what I would call a 4-3-4.  The three is because it never truly goes 2 cycle anywhere but it does go from a 4 to a very fast 4 with a pleasant hint of a 2 in high stress maneuvers.  The LA46 is a great stunt engine for a profile but, and this is 100% personal, it doesn't like to 2 cycle and it likes higher pitch props, at least mine have.



please disregard the pattern and listen to the motor.  I was just back from a 30 year layout and the pattern is borderline crap.

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Online Brett Buck

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Re: Need Help: to Identify Engine Run
« Reply #7 on: July 11, 2024, 10:15:42 AM »

Online Ken Culbertson

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Re: Need Help: to Identify Engine Run
« Reply #8 on: July 11, 2024, 12:59:58 PM »
** no need to duplicate **
LL~  Have you tried running it the other direction?

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Offline Kafin Noe’man

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Re: Need Help: to Identify Engine Run
« Reply #9 on: July 13, 2024, 12:13:23 PM »
Hi all, thanks for the responses. I really appreciate it.

So this morning, I had a chance to experiment further with my P40 and the LA 46 with 11x4.5 TT Prop.
I had like 6-7 flights, and I richened the needle a bit thus it dropped my launch RPM from 10,000 into 9,850 in order to still have that 2-2-2 characteristics that I’m looking for. Going any lower than 9,850 I would get more 4-2 break.

At this 9,850 RPM engine sounded happier.

Other than dropping the RPM, I also tried longer lines 65ft and 63ft.

However, there was something strange happened during my session this morning.
Setup A
- NO intake filter
- Launch RPM 9,850
- 2-2-2
- 65ft line
- 5.0 sec / lap
- 60ml fuel = 6-7 mins of flight

Setup B
- YES intake filter
- Launch RPM 9,850
- Needle position needed to be set much closer
- 2-2-2
- 63ft line
- 5.3 sec / lap
- 60ml fuel = > 10 mins of flight

It’s weird that with a longer lines, I got faster lap time.
What is happening here? Was the intake filter the culprit of this? One thing I really noticed when I had that intake filter on was I got a much longer flying time to the point my arm hurt  LL~ LL~ LL~

Looking forward to hearing more input from you guys.


Best,
Kafin
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I fly: P40, XEBEC, and Cardinal

Online Dan McEntee

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Re: Need Help: to Identify Engine Run
« Reply #10 on: July 13, 2024, 01:00:05 PM »
Hi all, thanks for the responses. I really appreciate it.

So this morning, I had a chance to experiment further with my P40 and the LA 46 with 11x4.5 TT Prop.
I had like 6-7 flights, and I richened the needle a bit thus it dropped my launch RPM from 10,000 into 9,850 in order to still have that 2-2-2 characteristics that I’m looking for. Going any lower than 9,850 I would get more 4-2 break.

At this 9,850 RPM engine sounded happier.

Other than dropping the RPM, I also tried longer lines 65ft and 63ft.

However, there was something strange happened during my session this morning.
Setup A
- NO intake filter
- Launch RPM 9,850
- 2-2-2
- 65ft line
- 5.0 sec / lap
- 60ml fuel = 6-7 mins of flight

Setup B
- YES intake filter
- Launch RPM 9,850
- Needle position needed to be set much closer
- 2-2-2
- 63ft line
- 5.3 sec / lap
- 60ml fuel = > 10 mins of flight

It’s weird that with a longer lines, I got faster lap time.
What is happening here? Was the intake filter the culprit of this? One thing I really noticed when I had that intake filter on was I got a much longer flying time to the point my arm hurt  LL~ LL~ LL~

Looking forward to hearing more input from you guys.


Best,
Kafin

   Adding the filter creates a bit of restriction, same as reducing the size of the venturi bore by as much as .010".  Reducing the venturi size, or adding the filter and creating the restriction, will require the needle closing to keep the same RPM, and thus increase run time. This is just another tuning tool that you can use. Some guys use layers of panty hose material to create the same effect. There is absolutely nothing wrong with doing this!! If you needed a little more run time on a model, but you don't have or can't fit a larger tank, restricting the venturi will increase your run time and still hold the same RPM. You just need to do this in small increments. If you went to higher nitro content, you would have to open the needle to get the same RPM, and thus use more fuel, and you might not have enough fuel for the pattern, and restricting the venturi will work here also. Almost any flying site will have dirt and debris, and a filter like yours ( they are not as good here in the US as they used to be) or the panty hose trick is something I always use on an engine but needs to be changed frequently.

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Online Brett Buck

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Re: Need Help: to Identify Engine Run
« Reply #11 on: July 13, 2024, 01:32:42 PM »
Hi all, thanks for the responses. I really appreciate it.

So this morning, I had a chance to experiment further with my P40 and the LA 46 with 11x4.5 TT Prop.
I had like 6-7 flights, and I richened the needle a bit thus it dropped my launch RPM from 10,000 into 9,850 in order to still have that 2-2-2 characteristics that I’m looking for. Going any lower than 9,850 I would get more 4-2 break.

At this 9,850 RPM engine sounded happier.

Other than dropping the RPM, I also tried longer lines 65ft and 63ft.

However, there was something strange happened during my session this morning.
Setup A
- NO intake filter
- Launch RPM 9,850
- 2-2-2
- 65ft line
- 5.0 sec / lap
- 60ml fuel = 6-7 mins of flight

Setup B
- YES intake filter
- Launch RPM 9,850
- Needle position needed to be set much closer
- 2-2-2
- 63ft line
- 5.3 sec / lap
- 60ml fuel = > 10 mins of flight

It’s weird that with a longer lines, I got faster lap time.
What is happening here? Was the intake filter the culprit of this? One thing I really noticed when I had that intake filter on was I got a much longer flying time to the point my arm hurt  LL~ LL~ LL~



   If I can make out what you did, you put on  the "fine" air filter and then had to screw in the needle. That means that the filter caused a restriction, less air required less fuel, so it ran longer.  The reduced power slowed it down. It's not very mysterious, aside from the fact that the "fine" element had so much restriction.

      I also, again, note that you do not want to slavishly set the needle based on the RPM, without regarding anything else. If you have greatly reduced the power, one of two things might happen - if you have a very heavy prop load, you might have to set the needle slower on the ground to accomodate more unload. If you have a very light prop load (like here), you might have to set it much faster on the ground, because the unload is reduced but the breathing restricts the in-flight RPM.

     Effectively, you put on a smaller venturi in addition to the line change, the smaller venturi reduced the power and the high-speed breathing (apparently, a lot), you set the RPM with the tach instead of by ear or lap time. The reduced power required less fuel, so you had to turn in the needle, and turning in the needle reduced the fuel flow, so it flew slowly and for a long time. For such a small model with a powerful (by stunt standards) engine, you might actually find at some point in the future that a restricted venturi will make it a little more tractable than the full tilt boogie (that is flying Kens large model even in a 4-stroke at 1/2 power) stuck, but you are still struggling with basic needle settings and misusing the tach.

    You were a few needle clicks away from ideal when you started, and then threw in a kitchen sink's worth of changes to multiple parameters.

     Put everything back the way it was when you took the video. Set the needle like you did, if it sounds "thin" in the maneuvers or audibly slows down in the maneuvers, open the needle valve 2 clicks, do not look at the tach, fly again, repeat until you get it audibly speeding up in the maneuvers, or it goes into a 4-stroke in level flight. Once you get the engine running correctly, then, see if you want to change something else, and on the next startup, measure it with the tach to be able to come close the next flying session.

     Making multiple changes at once (line length, adding filters, whatever else) makes it very difficult or impossible to sort it all out. Maybe a very experienced competition modeler can make more than one at a time, but usually don't because interpreting it becomes so difficult.

    I note that the picture is not a 46LA. I assume that was to show you were using the "fine" Bru-Line air filter, not that this was your engine.

      Brett

p.s. You were flying 6 minutes and 10+ on 60 milliliters of fuel?!  That is a mere 2 ounces, less than I use for a full (6ish minutes) flight with a 25LA. What kind of fuel are you using and how sure are you about the 60 "milliliters"?

Offline Tim Wescott

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Re: Need Help: to Identify Engine Run
« Reply #12 on: July 14, 2024, 11:41:29 AM »
... It’s weird that with a longer lines, I got faster lap time...

You changed two things (actually three, because you had to adjust the needle) at once.  You changed the length of the lines, which would give you a slower lap time with the same plane speed, then you put on an intake filter, which will drop the amount of air going into the engine.  It looks like the effect that this had was to force you to lean the engine out considerably to get the same ground RPM -- this meant that the engine was adjusted to closer to peak power when you launched, which means it flew faster and used less fuel.

Here's my process for getting an LA 46 or similar Schnuerle-ported "RC sport" engine into it's happy place for a particular airplane.  Note that you need to head out to the field either with a handfull of venturies with a range of diameters, or you need one venturi that's known to be too large, and a bunch of pieces of nylon mesh of about 1/2 to 1mm pitch and a way to hold them over the venturi.  In the US, you get this mesh along with the flowers you give your girlfriend or wife to make up for spending so much time and money on toy airplanes.

Note that this is not correct for other engines, or LA-type engines that have been modified for a "stunt run".  At best such engines are more reliable and slightly more powerful than a Fox 35, and want to be run in a 4-2-4 run with a 6-pitch prop on a super-light airplane.  At worst they've been screwed up beyond repair and you want to use them as dummy engines when you build so you don't fill your good engine with balsa dust.

  • Choose a prop and line length.  For these engines you want a prop pitch around 4
  • Choose a venturi size, or a known-large venturi with a stack of nylon mesh (about 1/2mm pitch) filters that looks about right -- I like starting with 2 or 3
  • Find a needle valve that gives you about the right lap time and feel at level
    • If the engine is anything but barely into a 4-stroke at launch it's too rich and the venturi needs to be smaller (or you need more layers of mesh).  When you launch one of these things in a slobbery rich 4-stroke there's a good chance that it'll break into a 2-stroke and pull your arm off for 10 minutes -- when you hear people talking about their engines "running away" this is what's happening.
  • Do some maneuvers.  Start with loops and squares, and if they go well, do some vertical eights and overheads.
    • If everything is good -- fine, you're done.  Stop.  Enjoy the feeling.  Go on to trim something else (like, do it all over again with a different prop).
    • If the airplane feels like it's losing power in the maneuvers, or in the overheads, then either the engine is just too small, you need more nitro, or (hopefully) you need to increase the venturi size slightly or take off a layer of mesh -- now go back to step 3 and repeat.
    • If the airplane feels like it's gaining too much power in the maneuvers, or if it has a tendency to drop into a 4-stroke and stay there when you don't want it to, you need to decrease the venturi size or add a layer of mesh -- now go back to step 3 and repeat.
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Online Brett Buck

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Re: Need Help: to Identify Engine Run
« Reply #13 on: July 14, 2024, 04:44:04 PM »
You changed two things (actually three, because you had to adjust the needle) at once.  You changed the length of the lines, which would give you a slower lap time with the same plane speed, then you put on an intake filter, which will drop the amount of air going into the engine.  It looks like the effect that this had was to force you to lean the engine out considerably to get the same ground RPM -- this meant that the engine was adjusted to closer to peak power when you launched, which means it flew faster and used less fuel.
....


  That's a good end-to-end description of the process.   Here's something even simpler. Put it all back the way it was at the beginning of this thread, in all respects. Start it and set it to 9850 or whatever. Fly it, see what it does in flight. When it lands, open the needle valve 1 click, and *change nothing else*. Fuel and fly, ignore the tach. Note performance. Land again, open needle valve 1 more click, fuel and fly, ignoring the tach, Keep doing this, keep track of how many clicks you have total, and note the change in the performance at each step. Keep going until it is obviously way too slow (since you like measuring things, say, 5.5 seconds) or it is running in a 4-stroke in level flight. 

  Do this as back-to-back as you can so the rest of the conditions don't change much. The idea is to make you stop making multiple changes, and, learn how the engine reacts at different needle positions. In particular note how the level flight speed and maneuver speed vary with respect to each other. In the video, it is noticaebly slowing down from going "over the top" lean, Richen it up, and that difference will go away, then, as you go richer, that should turn around and the engine will seem to speed up in the maneuvers and slow down again in level flight. Go too far rich, and the difference will be excessive. The happy medium is a small increase of power in the maneuvers and slowing back down again when you return to level flight.

    You might find that magic spot- but it might wind up too slow or too fast overall. THEN and only then, you change something else, and repeat a similar process  My initial guess was that your video settings were about two clicks lean of perfect. So it was very close - and then you went off in another direction. Attention to detail, one change at a time, careful observation of the results.

    A very experienced modeler might be able to figure out all this in a few flights and make multiple changes to get you there quicker, but since you are not experienced, you need to take smaller steps until you learn how one thing affects the other. And dialing numbers on a tach only helps you repeat a good setting from day to day or cold to hot, you do not want to be screwing the needle in and out every flight to hit a number, because the ground RPM can be greatly affected by the temperature of the engine when you start it, like you took an extra 2 minutes between flights.

    Note that you are not wasting your time, you will get flights in a wide variety of speeds and breaks which is what you need to experience to learn what you can do in a variety of conditions.

     I am still curious what kind of fuel that is, because 60 "ml" is an absurdly small (and absurdly hot) quantity of fuel for a 46. My guess would be FAI fuel...

     Brett

Offline Kafin Noe’man

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Re: Need Help: to Identify Engine Run
« Reply #14 on: July 15, 2024, 03:52:12 AM »
Thanks Dan, Brett, and Tim for your responses.
There are a lot of useful information that I have to digest and I definitely need to fly more in order to fully understand your advices.

Start it and set it to 9850 or whatever. Fly it, see what it does in flight. When it lands, open the needle valve 1 click, and *change nothing else*. Fuel and fly, ignore the tach. Note performance. Land again, open needle valve 1 more click, fuel and fly, ignoring the tach, Keep doing this, keep track of how many clicks you have total, and note the change in the performance at each step. Keep going until it is obviously way too slow (since you like measuring things, say, 5.5 seconds) or it is running in a 4-stroke in level flight. 

That was what I did that morning. I tried to set the needle by ear to where it had to be, flew it, and jotted down its performance in flight. Although I did measure the ground RPM just before I walked back to the circle to complete my data of every flight so I can analyze/ask to you guys further afterwards. I didn't really aim for any specific RPM number to start the day with.

And for the fuel, I blend VP PowerMaster 15% Air with more methanol and oil to bring down the nitro percentage into 5%.
I might have to fly it some more in order to have more reliable data to analyze.


Best,
Kafin
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I fly: P40, XEBEC, and Cardinal

Online Brett Buck

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Re: Need Help: to Identify Engine Run
« Reply #15 on: July 15, 2024, 08:41:41 AM »
Thanks Dan, Brett, and Tim for your responses.
There are a lot of useful information that I have to digest and I definitely need to fly more in order to fully understand your advices.

That was what I did that morning. I tried to set the needle by ear to where it had to be, flew it, and jotted down its performance in flight. Although I did measure the ground RPM just before I walked back to the circle to complete my data of every flight so I can analyze/ask to you guys further afterwards. I didn't really aim for any specific RPM number to start the day with.

And for the fuel, I blend VP PowerMaster 15% Air with more methanol and oil to bring down the nitro percentage into 5%.
I might have to fly it some more in order to have more reliable data to analyze.


Best,
Kafin

 Good, glad it is helping!  I am not sure why you are watering down the fuel, but even on 5%, I would expect you to be using far more than 2 ounces of it. 5% is OK, is should run on that, but it might be pretty touchy with the stock venturi.*

     Brett

*but that doesn't mean you should go change it or put a filter back on!!!
« Last Edit: July 15, 2024, 08:59:37 AM by Brett Buck »

Offline Steve Helmick

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Re: Need Help: to Identify Engine Run
« Reply #16 on: July 15, 2024, 01:59:14 PM »
I'll ask what the oil content of the VP 15% Air is? If it's reasonable, I'd suggest trying using it straight for a flight or two and see if you don't like that a lot better. For a 6 minute engine run, you should be using something over 120 cc's of fuel. That's if I got my math correct. IIRC, 30cc's = roughly 1 fluid ounce, and 4 fluid oz is pretty marginal for the .46LA. But it depends on the size of the model, propeller load, venturi/spraybar size, muffler outlet size, air filter restriction, etc.

IF the engine goes lean during any maneuver, particularly OH8's or just doing overhead loops, richen that NV setting!

I would never disagree with Brett, but using the tachometer to set the NV is about the only way to keep up with the increase in ambient temperature as the day goes on. Especially in a contest setting, where you might have hours between flights. The alternative is to keep adjusting the nitro content (increasing %) as the day warms. That would take a lot of practice or doing a ground test...the idea is that when you get the nitro content correct, the NV doesn't need adjusting to get the same launch rpm. I could do that, but never have. By NOT adjusting the NV, the run time/flight duration should be pretty consistent. More important for y'all flying FAI contests than we'ns flying AMA contests. 7 min. vs. 8 min. limit. Probably not a concern for you at this time.  D>K Steve
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Online Brett Buck

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Re: Need Help: to Identify Engine Run
« Reply #17 on: July 15, 2024, 02:51:17 PM »

I would never disagree with Brett, but using the tachometer to set the NV is about the only way to keep up with the increase in ambient temperature as the day goes on. Especially in a contest setting, where you might have hours between flights. The alternative is to keep adjusting the nitro content (increasing %) as the day warms. That would take a lot of practice or doing a ground test...the idea is that when you get the nitro content correct, the NV doesn't need adjusting to get the same launch rpm. I could do that, but never have. By NOT adjusting the NV, the run time/flight duration should be pretty consistent. More important for y'all flying FAI contests than we'ns flying AMA contests. 7 min. vs. 8 min. limit. Probably not a concern for you at this time.  D>K Steve

   The plan above is for purposes of testing/education, since he had no real idea what a good target RPM might be, and slavishly dialing in RPM on every flight usually leasds beginners and low-time pilots to screw the needle around. That's also why I told him to do the test back-to-back as possible,

    In point of fact, I do not use my tach to keep up with air temperature variations, and usually dial in the needle based on my ear, judgement, and only verify it with the tach. That obviously presents a problem here, but if keeps fiddling with the tach with no regard to the actual position, he is going to go down the rabbit hole again. That's also why click-type needles are preferable, as long as the clicks are small enough.

    Brett

Online Ken Culbertson

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Re: Need Help: to Identify Engine Run
« Reply #18 on: July 15, 2024, 03:01:43 PM »
I don't see how he is getting pattern length flight times on 2 oz of fuel.  In the years I ran the 46LA I consonantly used between 4 and 4.5 oz. and that was running a fast 4 cycle and a high pitch prop.

Ken
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Offline Dave_Trible

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Re: Need Help: to Identify Engine Run
« Reply #19 on: July 15, 2024, 03:11:01 PM »
I'd be interested to look at the venturi.  I wonder if this is an RC conversion with a very small aftermarket CL venturi or is otherwise restricted.  Fuel is power-no fuel, no power.  Also a head leak (or plug seal) can cause extremely long engine runs sometimes.

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Online Brett Buck

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Re: Need Help: to Identify Engine Run
« Reply #20 on: July 15, 2024, 04:07:32 PM »
I'd be interested to look at the venturi.  I wonder if this is an RC conversion with a very small aftermarket CL venturi or is otherwise restricted.  Fuel is power-no fuel, no power.  Also a head leak (or plug seal) can cause extremely long engine runs sometimes.

Dave

   There is definitely something odd here and I would have expected 9850 rpm with that prop to be pretty rich, not over-the-top lean. Of course, you also don't need much power for a P-40 and the 46LA (normal) is tremendous overkill power.

    Still, the process described above will get him both some idea how the needle affects the performance, and also give him a best-possible setting for his current combination, so I would be very hesitant to recommend any more changes beyond just needling experiments, for fear of going off on a tangent.

     I have a suspicion what the difference might be, because I have seen it time and again.

     Brett

Offline Kafin Noe’man

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Re: Need Help: to Identify Engine Run
« Reply #21 on: July 21, 2024, 09:47:26 AM »
Reducing the venturi size, or adding the filter and creating the restriction, will require the needle closing to keep the same RPM, and thus increase run time.

After more experiments of adding and/or removing the filter, I can confirm I have experienced all the points you mentioned above.

But, another thing that I’ve experienced is when I have the same RPM number whether it’s with/without the filter on, I got the same power, break, tension, lap times, except the fuel consumption/flying times.

I thought the one with the filter would produce lower power even when we close the needle to get the same RPM number.

Is this something to be expected?


Best,
Kafin
« Last Edit: July 21, 2024, 05:27:41 PM by Kafin Noe’man »
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Online Brett Buck

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Re: Need Help: to Identify Engine Run
« Reply #22 on: July 21, 2024, 10:51:57 AM »
After more experiments of adding and/or removing the filter, I can confirm I have experienced all the points you mentioned above. But, another thing that I’ve experienced is when I have the same RPM number whether it’s with/without the filter on, I got the same power, break, tension, lap times, except the fuel consumption/flying times.

I thought the one with the filter would produce lower power even when we close the needle to get the same RPM number.

Is this something to be expected?


   Yes, it's absolutely critical thing to understand. But, I sure hope you did as I suggested, because while you were adjusting the needle a priori, you would also note that the engine run got "flatter' as you leaned it out. A restrictive venturi, run leaner, will have much less variation in flight and under load. With lots of restriction - in this case, extreme restriction - will require you to run the engine much harder and closer to peaked, meaning you will get very little power variation with load. Running it richer with less restriction "frees up" the engine to respond to load. The entire process of developing the engine setup is playing off the various factors to get the best combination of overall power and power variation, without also killing the airplane performance in other ways (trim and turn capability).

     But of course, the more restrictive the venturi, the less peak power you have, and you would either get less RPM at the maximum with a given prop, or less prop at a given RPM. Your range of testing probably never hit the far end, and in general, you never care very much about the maximum power, since almost all engines now provide far, far more than enough, and at RPM you can't use.  You could fly your airplane with reasonable effectiveness with anything from a 25FP to a PA75, it only needs about .35 shaft HP, and they can all greatly exceed that. What's why over the range you tested, you didn't see any effect of the venturi on the power, because even the wimpiest setup is far more than you could possibly use.


    What you may have missed about it is the responsiveness changing, that is not terribly surprising because that takes some feel to achieve. My suggested test was to allow you to see the range of variation, and maybe get some of that feel. And - since you were about 2 needle clicks away from a very good usable system many posts ago, you would hit that on the way.

     Brett

p.s while you were trying different degrees of restrictions, you should have noticed that you needed to run the engine closer to peak/leaner to get the desired power/lap time. That's the problem with shotgunning multiple changes, because you could have easily confused yourself trying to shoot out one change after another. For instance, if you are going to try different venturis/restrictions, you would want to hold the fuel/prop constant, and adjusted the engine to whatever it needed to get a particular fixed lap time. Note that a particular lap time always requires the same power to overcome drag, and holding the prop constant and the lap time constant means you are controlling the in-flight shaft power. Then, as you change the venturi/restriction, you will see how running it richer or leaner affects the variability of the run. That's how you pick venturis - not to alter the maximum power (which you aren't going to sue anyway), but to move where you are in terms or rich/lean.

    I would add - I am having trouble following what you did, and what your results were for the individual things you tried, and under what conditions. If you really did all the suggestions above, and were pretty careful about it,  I would guess it would take maybe 200 flights, that is a lot of flights since July 11.

p.p.s. As an example (bearing in mind I have been doing this pretty successfully for 40+ years...), this weekend, I changed my prop. It was the same design/diameter as the prop I had been running since 2017, but, instead of 3.75" of pitch, it was 3.9 - a mere .15" of pitch different. The reason I wanted to try something different was that the engine was, to my ear and several learned observers, "too flat", that is, it had too little variation in flight and wasn't helping me when I need the power to change. More pitch allows me to run it slightly richer, moving it further down on the torque curve to free it up (allow it to vary more due to load in flight). So, I to a single test flight on the old engine, launch revs about 10,000-10100 in the cool morning air, I got the expected 5.25 second laps. As soon as I landed, I switched the prop and went right back up again, no waiting so I could get the same air conditions. I guessed at about 9700 as a target, I fired it up, it was 9700 ish, sounded pretty good, so I just left it. Flew, marginally too fast (5.2), next round about 1/2 hour later, warmed up, so I arbitrarity backed the needle off about 10 degrees (no clicks, unfortunately) and it came up about 9500-9600 toggling back and forth.  This was too much, because it was now too slow (5.3) Another back-to-back, I put it back about 5 degrees, checked it on the ground, solid 9600. Good, back to 5.25.

    OK, great, after 4 flights over an hour, I can begin to evaluate the change. Seemed pretty good, so I left it, chased the needle in as it warmed up during the session, from maybe 65ish to 80 degreee. Generally successful, it is running richer in level flight and responding more (richening up when unloaded, leaning out when loaded). So, generally good change and that is as far as I can go until I drive 2400 miles and fly it in Muncie.   

   But that is me, with an engine that I have probably flown 1000+ stunt patterns in every condition over the last 18 years, in a series of nearly-identical airplanes, all over the country, and I can manage to evaluate one single tiny change in about 7-8 flights. I note that this is on the heels of another change that David and I made *6 months ago* that had the effect of "flattening" the run, to good in his case, and overdone in my case.
« Last Edit: July 21, 2024, 05:54:00 PM by Brett Buck »

Offline Kafin Noe’man

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Re: Need Help: to Identify Engine Run
« Reply #23 on: July 21, 2024, 11:37:38 PM »
Hi Brett,

Thanks for your thorough response.

What's why over the range you tested, you didn't see any effect of the venturi on the power, because even the wimpiest setup is far more than you could possibly use.   

Yes! I have finally decided to get rid of the filter since I didn't feel any difference/effect on the power.
Putting the filter on gives me another headache regarding the fuel consumption that affects to the very long flying time.

So, after flying some more and having various data to analyze, I have another question to ask.
Every time I set the engine to have Wet 2 or 2-2-2 break, it's always hard for me to get the lap times above 5 sec/lap.
I always get like in the range of 4.7 - 4.9 sec/lap.
- 4.70 - 4.75 on 60ft lines ;
- 4,85 - 4.9 on 62.5ft lines ;
- 4,85 - 4.95 on 65ft lines ;

Meanwhile, if I set it to have a 4-2 break, the lap times is much more comfortable at 5.2ish and I can set the lap times accordingly through the line length variations.

Does this mean I have to get more familiar to fly with an engine that has 4-2 break characteristics?


Best,
Kafin
INA 1630
I fly: P40, XEBEC, and Cardinal

Offline Dan Berry

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Re: Need Help: to Identify Engine Run
« Reply #24 on: July 22, 2024, 07:04:20 AM »
Get some 59 ft lines. 

Online Ken Culbertson

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Re: Need Help: to Identify Engine Run
« Reply #25 on: July 22, 2024, 07:10:52 AM »
You seem to like a slower lap time than the 2-2-2 wants to give you.  Here are two things that go into how a plane flies.  What it wants to do and what you want to do.  Until they agree, there are always going to be problems.  The P-40 naturally wants to fly fast, the LA46 naturally wants to 4-2-4 and you want to fly at a rather normal 5.2 to 5.4.  You need to decide which style you are going to chose, and select planes and engines that produce what YOU want.  There is no one right or wrong style.  High RPM low pitch 2-2-2, Low Rpm High pitch 4-4-4 and 4-2-4 names are all on our Wakler trophy.  How do YOU like to fly?

Ken
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Offline Dave_Trible

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Re: Need Help: to Identify Engine Run
« Reply #26 on: July 22, 2024, 08:23:55 AM »
Hi Brett,

Thanks for your thorough response.

Yes! I have finally decided to get rid of the filter since I didn't feel any difference/effect on the power.
Putting the filter on gives me another headache regarding the fuel consumption that affects to the very long flying time.

So, after flying some more and having various data to analyze, I have another question to ask.
Every time I set the engine to have Wet 2 or 2-2-2 break, it's always hard for me to get the lap times above 5 sec/lap.
I always get like in the range of 4.7 - 4.9 sec/lap.
- 4.70 - 4.75 on 60ft lines ;
- 4,85 - 4.9 on 62.5ft lines ;
- 4,85 - 4.95 on 65ft lines ;

Meanwhile, if I set it to have a 4-2 break, the lap times is much more comfortable at 5.2ish and I can set the lap times accordingly through the line length variations.

Does this mean I have to get more familiar to fly with an engine that has 4-2 break characteristics?


Best,
Kafin
So many suggestions!   If It were me I'd work towards the 4-2 break if it will set there consistently.  It's not a very hard break so it's more about an rpm range than cycle break.  You are looking for an rpm/airspeed which just happens to fall where the engine wants to break.  The 65' lines are really too much for this engine.   I'd go with the 62-  less if you couldn't get the lap time fast enough,  but that's not your issue.  If you want the higher rpm then you need a less efficient prop.  If you are running the 4.5 then drop back to an 11-4.  That might give you just enough to end up about where you want to be. 

Dave
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Offline Kafin Noe’man

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Re: Need Help: to Identify Engine Run
« Reply #27 on: September 17, 2024, 06:57:55 AM »
Hi, after more & more flights, I think I often set my needle on the lean side because I was always aiming for specific RPM number that’s been circulating over the internet for my engine and prop combo.

In the past few weekends, I’ve decided that I wouldn’t aim for any specific RPM or lap times number but rather just focus on listening to the engine and how I feel about the flight in general (judging it more qualitatively). It brought peace of mind and worked better for me.

So, I’ve made another video that I would like you to review on how the engine sounds and runs
https://youtu.be/QKRiS9Du464?si=-1vR7NgElB_zGAUc

*and please disregard my flying on that video since I was kinda having a plane trim problem (leadout was too far forward) so it always wanted to go inside when I was trying to do the loop. I ended up having tight loop because I wanted to recover it immediately.


Best,
Kafin
INA 1630
I fly: P40, XEBEC, and Cardinal

Online Ken Culbertson

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Re: Need Help: to Identify Engine Run
« Reply #28 on: September 17, 2024, 07:34:40 AM »
Hi, after more & more flights, I think I often set my needle on the lean side because I was always aiming for specific RPM number that’s been circulating over the internet for my engine and prop combo.

In the past few weekends, I’ve decided that I wouldn’t aim for any specific RPM or lap times number but rather just focus on listening to the engine and how I feel about the flight in general (judging it more qualitatively). It brought peace of mind and worked better for me.

So, I’ve made another video that I would like you to review on how the engine sounds and runs
https://youtu.be/QKRiS9Du464?si=-1vR7NgElB_zGAUc

*and please disregard my flying on that video since I was kinda having a plane trim problem (leadout was too far forward) so it always wanted to go inside when I was trying to do the loop. I ended up having tight loop because I wanted to recover it immediately.


Best,
Kafin
What pitch prop are you using?  I thought the break was a bit less than I would have expected.  Having said that I always ran a fast 4 cycle on a high pitch (5-6) prop so I got a harder breaks.  If you are using "how it sounds" which I personally think is better than a TAC you have to remember how it sounded relative to how it flew.  They will always be quite different.  If it is any comfort,  learning to set an IC motor right almost every time in various weather conditions is one of the most difficult skills in the hobby.   Master it and you will have a much better time mastering the pattern.

Ken
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Online Brett Buck

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Re: Need Help: to Identify Engine Run
« Reply #29 on: September 17, 2024, 08:31:14 AM »
Hi, after more & more flights, I think I often set my needle on the lean side because I was always aiming for specific RPM number that’s been circulating over the internet for my engine and prop combo.

In the past few weekends, I’ve decided that I wouldn’t aim for any specific RPM or lap times number but rather just focus on listening to the engine and how I feel about the flight in general (judging it more qualitatively). It brought peace of mind and worked better for me.

So, I’ve made another video that I would like you to review on how the engine sounds and runs
https://youtu.be/QKRiS9Du464?si=-1vR7NgElB_zGAUc

    Exactly - you do not want to dial up a specific RPM that is obviously not correct, no matter how many times it is mentioned. Once you get a comfortable setting for both the speed the airplane wants, and the proper response on the engine, THEN, note the RPM and next session, start there, but don't be afraid to adjust it based on the feel.

    In this case, you are running in an almost solid 4, while it is a big improvement over what you were doing earlier, that is probably not optimal. If it was me, I would reduce the pitch and try to get it running faster/leaner because that will get you more performance overall. If it doesn't work then you can always go back.

       Brett


Offline John Skukalek

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Re: Need Help: to Identify Engine Run
« Reply #30 on: September 17, 2024, 08:44:42 AM »
I often have observed the experts saying that you want to get the engine running where it is happy and the run is repeatable. Then use prop pitch to dial in the pace/lap time.
With the 46 LA I have seen "happy" engines run in a straight 4 cycle, a wet 2 cycle and also where it switches back and forth between 4 and 2 cycle.

Online Dan McEntee

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Re: Need Help: to Identify Engine Run
« Reply #31 on: September 17, 2024, 09:31:21 AM »
Hi, after more & more flights, I think I often set my needle on the lean side because I was always aiming for specific RPM number that’s been circulating over the internet for my engine and prop combo.

In the past few weekends, I’ve decided that I wouldn’t aim for any specific RPM or lap times number but rather just focus on listening to the engine and how I feel about the flight in general (judging it more qualitatively). It brought peace of mind and worked better for me.

So, I’ve made another video that I would like you to review on how the engine sounds and runs
https://youtu.be/QKRiS9Du464?si=-1vR7NgElB_zGAUc

*and please disregard my flying on that video since I was kinda having a plane trim problem (leadout was too far forward) so it always wanted to go inside when I was trying to do the loop. I ended up having tight loop because I wanted to recover it immediately.


Best,
Kafin

  You can take suggestions and recommendations from others, but who knows what their elevation and weather environment is? Take those RPM suggestions as a starting point, and then adjust from there to suit YOUR area, elevation, engine, airplane and fuel.  They may say "9800 rpm" at take off but your prop may be different, or temperature and elevation and venturi size different so that number may not work for you and needs to go up or down. You still have to figure out what works for YOU where YOU are and that only comes with repeated flying and recording results. I use the tachometer as a reference point only. The number on the screen is meaningless, just a way of telling you where you are. I can't tell a 200 rpm difference by ear sometimes. Once  you manage to find that setting, then you know where to set it next time, approximately.

   Just keep at it and keep flying ,
  Dan McEntee
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