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General control line discussion => Open Forum => Topic started by: frank mccune on July 07, 2016, 08:00:01 AM
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Hi All:
I finally got to fly my Ringmaster Imperial and found that it is very sluggish and slow to respond to control inputs. Here are some facts about it:
It weighs 48oz. rtf.
It has a T&L OS .35S converted to .40 for power running a fast 4 cycle.
Prop is a 10-6.
Fuel is 10% nitro all castor at 28%.
Lines 58 feet c-c..
Handle spacing is 4".
The plane pulls like a mule!
The maneuvers are very large and dangerous to attempt.
It balances as per the plans.
Is this what I may expect from the Imperial?
Suggestions or comments?
Tia,
Frank McCune
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I would add tail weight and see what happens. Maybe the CG on the plans is for beginners.
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Hi All:
I finally got to fly my Ringmaster Imperial and found that it is very sluggish and slow to respond to control inputs. Here are some facts about it:
It weighs 48oz. rtf.
It has a T&L OS .35S converted to .40 for power running a fast 4 cycle.
Prop is a 10-6.
Fuel is 10% nitro all castor at 28%.
Lines 58 feet c-c..
Handle spacing is 4".
The plane pulls like a mule!
The maneuvers are very large and dangerous to attempt.
It balances as per the plans.
Is this what I may expect from the Imperial?
Suggestions or comments? Tia,
Frank McCune
so how abourt some specifics to help,,
what rpm are you runining at?
what lap times ( it matters a LOT)
where is the CG with respect to the MAC
where are the leadouts positioned with respect to the CG
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tape some coins onto the back end until it flies correctly (to your hand), weigh the coins and build in some tail weight.
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As I recall, it uses a stock Ringmaster wing. If so, it is about 20 ounces too heavy! :(
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Is this an original Sterling kit or one of Walters super kits? Mine is built using Walter's kit. Power is LA 46 using 10% nitro fuel with 20+ % oil. I'm flying on .015 lines that are 65 feet center of plane to center of Fancher handle. Prop is 11 - 5 Top Flite and has been flown with Zoar 11-5. I need to replace needle assembly so I can get better adjustments as the one in the engine now has a slight bend. Last time out the guys timed me at 4.8 laps, but I was comfortable and do realize I need to slow it down. I think mine is in the 50+ ounce range.
Larry, this is the Ringmaster Imperial not the Super Ringmaster which I'm also flying. I just need to get off my duff and fly more, but I have been hindered the last couple of weeks.
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He is not talking about a Super Ringmaster It is a Ringmaster Imperial. 48 ounces is fine for that plane.
Ed
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Frank, this is where you start the "trimming" process. It should never end until the plane is smashed to smithereens or hung on the wall with the leadouts clipped off.
Looks to me like the lines are too short. I'd expect 62' eye to eye lines might be maximum, but now you've got it flying, that's where I'd go with that. Naturally, the CG needs to be shifted aft, but keep an eye on the leadout position relative to the CG. We'll assume that the LO guide is adjustable.
I'd also be looking at larger diameter props with 4.5" > 6" pitch. Personally, I'd try a TT 11 x 4.5, Xoar 11 x 5, RSM 11 x 6 (known to be under 6) and some reworked 11 x 5 Zinger Pro prop kits (I hate 'em!). While it makes no sense to me to settle on a rare, out of production propeller, it does make sense to try them as it may show you that your current propeller is not all that good! That would encourage me to keep trying to find a better propeller. Just remember that you'll need to find the right launch rpm for each prop, so you need to be real careful not to "get frisky" if the rpm isn't right. Use a tachometer! H^^ Steve
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Is the pushrod properly supported?
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You need to be in contact with Mark Troutman. He just finished one of these nightmares and says he now understands why he never saw one before.
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Frank :
Somewhere around 1967, I was red hot for a Sterling RM Imperial. Cut my teeth on two Ringmasters ; one in 65 the other in 67. My stunt mentors at the time told me to pass on it and instead I got a used Smoothie which was a really nice performer .
The Imperial wing doesn't have the area to support the weight; plain and simple - and it is short coupled.
The Umland kit would likely be lighter and therefore a much better performer, but since you've got this one, follow all the recommendations that the other guys have given.
Just keep your expectations tempered towards sport performance and you'll enjoy it more.
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I had one way back in the early 60s as I recall flew well. Follow the advise given but only make ONE change at a time or you will not know what works or doesn't. It the science training in me.
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If it pulls allot and is sluggish it might be nose heavy and crabbing out.
MM