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General control line discussion => Open Forum => Topic started by: Allen Eshleman on April 05, 2016, 06:20:24 PM
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Fancherized Sig Banshee, built by my brother, Ron. LA 40. Monokote - Yellow and White, Sig Blue, Brodak Red and Gray, Lustrekote on wood surfaces. All surfaces finished with clear lustrekote. Tom Morrris controls, Brodak carbon fiber pushrod.
Oh for the wind to die down!!! But, I'm not complaining.
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Some more pics
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Hi Allen, Looking really fine! I hope it flies as well as it looks! Let me know how the Luster Coat lasts. Over the years I've had trouble with it turning black and an off dark brown. My hope is that yours lasts and lasts! The LA .40 should be a good mate for the plane. Get lots of handle time on the unit so that you may have a better chance with it in Profile and PA this June in Carmichaels,PA!
Phil Spillman
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I hope to get some time. Waiting on wind now.
I forgot that the Lustrekote did that on my Magician. Yikes!
What size pixel wise, do jpegs need to be for posting?
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Hello my friend, That sure nice looking Sig Banshee you got there and looks very cool. I love the colors on the plane. You will sure have a lot fun with that one for sure .Thanks ringmaster.
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Nice plane!
For posterity, remember to get a picture of you and your brother together with the plane.
Stuff like that is special and important in the end.
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What size pixel wise, do jpegs need to be for posting?
Good question! Meaningless, but good.
Sparky limits images by file size, not the number of pixels. And JPEG-format images are compressed, so the file size of the "same" image can vary hugely. Just for chuckles I'm posting two files. It's the same picture, but one was saved with JPEG "quality" set to 66 (out of 100), and the other was saved with JPEG "quality" set to 5. If you squint you'll see that the file sizes are 48k and 14k.
I happen to be a photography nut who took to this whole digital image stuff like it was a nifty new kind of film. If you just don't want to mess with it, ask how to resize pictures. This thread is old, but has good info: http://stunthanger.com/smf/open-forum/photos-on-the-forum-7142/ (http://stunthanger.com/smf/open-forum/photos-on-the-forum-7142/).
(I use gimp, which is more or less an open-source version of Photoshop. Unless you liked developing your own film back in the day, you do not want to use gimp.)
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Thanks for the kind compliments. We will get that picture together. Thanks Tim for the reference to that picture posting thread. I have Irfanview and will be trying some of the "new to me" suggestions there like width to around 840, fit to desktop, etc. To those who are still learning to post pictures here, that is a fantastic thread. I often say: "I fly em and wreck em and Ron builds em and fixes them". He is improving slowly. Please pray that he will walk again without the walker.
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Hello Allen:
Nice looking airplane! Remember that you have a standing invitation to join us the HAMS, for flying at our new field. Oh yes, we do not need mufflers at our new field! It is a bit of a ride to get to our field for you but it is a very easy one! Interstate 81 will be your friend.
Be well,
Frank McCune
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Another pic
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Hello, My friend I must say your Sig Banshee looks a lot sweeter than my old Banshee but still flys very well for me. I think the Sig Banshee and Sig Twister are the best profile planes ever made for my money and still love both of them and fly them all the time. I like them because they are easy to build and build fast too. Thanks ringmaster. Have great day my friend.
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My brother and I together.
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Bottom of plane
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Allen,
I just saw your Thread and your fine model. H^^
Nice job with that iron on. The yellow is outstanding!
I've been inquiring about iron on materials, if I get brave enough I may just give it a try.
Great looking Banshee! H^^
Charles
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With the very fine work you are doing, I'm not sure I would do iron on. Definitely, if you do, use only Ultra-Cote or Monokote. Also check the finishing threads for putting Monokote on top of monokote without heat - there is a fluid for it. And I think (memory) water works. However, I've notice your work - it's great. I can't imagine that iron - on is better or even close to equal.
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With the very fine work you are doing, I'm not sure I would do iron on. Definitely, if you do, use only Ultra-Cote or Monokote. Also check the finishing threads for putting Monokote on top of monokote without heat - there is a fluid for it. And I think (memory) water works. However, I've notice your work - it's great. I can't imagine that iron - on is better or even close to equal.
Allen,
I've been following the likes of "Great" Dane and Fred's Cesquim's work. Both of these modelers do the iron on trick like magic. Looks like you also have it mastered. H^^
Fred actually incorporates painted colors and finishes in a two part auto clear to protect all applied colors and pen lines.
The "Jury" is still out, but Fred says he saves time, effort and weight with his iron on application system.
If I didn't already have some coats of clear dope on the ARGO II, I would certainly give Fred's system a try.
I do have another model in the works that has absolutely no dope on it.
I plan on keeping it that way and will give that model a try with iron on material, as Fred does, that's prepped for paint applications and auto clear.
Have you seen Fred Cesquim's work?
Nice model Allen and thank you for your kind words.
Charles
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I am very thankful to my brother for the fine work he is doing. He did it on my Vector also in the ARF section. That was an ARC using mostly Ultra Kote. On this plane, the biggest challenge was the blue Sig covering. I really liked that color but it was very hard to work the wing tips. I am trying to use up covering I have. Keep up the good you are doing Charles.
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Bet you two have to beat the ladies away. Oh the plane looks great, or did I say that already. H^^
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... Also check the finishing threads for putting Monokote on top of monokote without heat - there is a fluid for it. And I think (memory) water works.
It takes ammonia to activate the Monokote glue, and does not work at all on Ultrakote glue. Windex with ammonia is my choice and it works very well if allowed to completely dry and then seal the edges with clear dope or Lustrekote sprayed on a q-tip or brush. Clear nail polish became white when I later cleaned the plane with alky.
It sticks as well as it would with heat, but you have to cut compound curves into pieces since you can't shrink it to make it fit. So water alone will not work, plus the detergent in Wiindex helps you slide it around to position it. You have plenty of time to get it right.
Rusty
Here it is on a white base with the two colors cut from a roll of iron-on Kote. The Streak's wing tips had to be done separately. It was my first Monokote job, after trying Ultra on the Li'l Satan next to it. Everything other than the wing is Rustoleum and Lustrekote, and the Monokote has never even hinted at peeling off. Both are still my best fun flyers.
(http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u116/rknrusty/Airplanes/DSCN2564.jpg)
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Rusty, the planes look great. H^^
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I have now had four flights on the Banshee. I believe it will be a great plane. However, still in the trimming phase. During the first three flights, I had three problems. The tank slid some. I fixed that. Also, it seemed to cut out a bit going into inside loops. I have that cured by securing the tank. I had a gorgeous run on the LA 40 today. the other problem was that I lost line tension at the top of maneuvers. Some suggested that I adjust the lines back 1/8 of an inch. Well I tried that today and the problem was worse. So, I now moved the lines (leadouts) forward of what they originally were. I haven't been able to try that yet but reading here on the forum has convinced me to try this. So, we'll see. But so far, I really like the Banshee and the often probematical LA 40 is starting and running quite well.
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Yeah, forward is usually the way to go when you get loose up top. Glad you're getting the minor fuel glitches worked out. Keep us posted with another flight report.
Rusty
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I tried moving the lines forward. I just flew today in more wind than I'm comfortable. I didn't like the feel at all and didn't even try any maneuvers. The outer wing plane flapped up and down at the end of the lines and it didn't have much line tension. I will try again when the wind is down. Tried changing from a 10 1/2 x 4 1/2 to an 11/3. No help whatsoever.
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Allen,
I know this question is 101 stuff but...
Do you have engine offset? Rudder offset?
I can't stand the wind. Even as a sign painter, the wind would blow the end of the brush. A real pain.
Keep us posted.
Charles
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On your Banshee, where is the CG?
HOw much control throw do you have ( what matters is how much the controls deflect when you manipulate the handle as you are flying)
Is the attachment point on the elevators perpendicular to the hinge line/lpushrod?
HOw much tip weight to you have in it ( what really matters is how much heavier the outboard tip is than the inboard not really how much weight is in the box)
What fuel
What was the 10 1/2 x 4 1/2 prop
what rpm do you tach to before launch
how long of lines,
what is the actual measurment of the leadouts ( center of the two leadouts to the hinge line)
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Thanks for the advice.
This plane does have rudder offset. My first step is to eliminate or minimize that. After that, we'll see how it flies. The 10 1/2 prop was APC, 60 ft lines. Don't have a tach. I have plent of control throw. I need to retest the CG. I know that after the first flight I eliminated some tail weight and performance improved.