Minwax water base polycrylic

[stephen hollier]

This will be my second time using this product on my plane. On the last plane I put 1 coat on raw wood sanded then applied silk span. This process worked out well. Have anyone tried using polycrylic only with no silkspan or what method do you use.

Thank in advance for your comments,

[Paul Wood]

Stephen,

I'm just getting back into C/L after many years of R/C.  I've not used it on a C/L yet, but I've used it many times on my R/C planes.  It works well as a sealer, but it's not fuel proof.  Being water based, it tends to swell the wood a little as it soaks in.  I've not found that to be a problem, and I've never had the second coat cause any swelling.  Two coats applied with a foam brush is enough to seal the wood for priming.  Any type primer works well over it because the water base seems to be compatible with just about everything.  Don't use it as a filler.  It's too heavy.  Good luck.

Paul

[david beazley]

I have used it with light weight fiber glass with mixed results.  Light weight wood will swell and warp on the first application.

[Mike Keville]

Haven't yet tried it on a Stunt ship, but my little profile A-26 has a base consisting of three coats of Minwax Polycrylic (satin finish), sanded with 400 grit between coats.  That was topped with rattle-can Rustoleum gray primer under Rustoleum's "American Accents" spray colors.  (Panel lines & shading added later.)  The Polycrylic did an excellent job of prepping the surfaces (mostly balsa, with 1/64" ply on the wing).

Two years and 140-plus laps later, it still looks good...despite a, shall we say, "less than 40-point" landing at its latest outing last October.

I also have a nice wooden flight box, built by master carpenter John Callentine, finished with three coats of Minwax Gloss Polycrylic that looks as good today as it did nearly five years ago.

[Richard Grogan]

Both of my S1 Ringmasters are clear coated with Minwax Polyurethane clear.It made the white wings turn to dianne creme color(due to no uv protectants)which is what I was after... I guess I've never seen the polycrylics.

[Mike Keville]

The white portions of my late Super Duper Zilch were coated with Minwax Gloss PolyURETHANE (as opposed to PolyCRYLIC).  It did not change the white to cream, though that was probably because the white was rattle-can Krylon "Fusion".

On the other hand, the poor Zilch didn't "live" long enough for a full & complete test of UV resistance.

The main difference between the two is that Polyurethane is solvent-based (mineral spirits cleanup), Polycrylic is water-based.

[Richard Grogan]

Mike, I first learned about the "yellowing" of the Poly when doing my 51' Nobler. I went all out to make it an true authentic OTS entry, before I knew what the rules were/are. Even used Ambroid to build it! I shot the Minwax on the whole model and got a nice look to it. Within 24 hrs of dry down, all the white stripes and graphics, where suddenly it became a 50-years-hanging-in-a-hobby shop airplane,old and yellowed!

[John Stiles]

Haven't yet tried it on a Stunt ship, but my little profile A-26 has a base consisting of three coats of Minwax Polycrylic (satin finish), sanded with 400 grit between coats.  That was topped with rattle-can Rustoleum gray primer under Rustoleum's "American Accents" spray colors.  (Panel lines & shading added later.)  The Polycrylic did an excellent job of prepping the surfaces (mostly balsa, with 1/64" ply on the wing).

Two years and 140-plus laps later, it still looks good...despite a, shall we say, "less than 40-point" landing at its latest outing last October.

I also have a nice wooden flight box, built by master carpenter John Callentine, finished with three coats of Minwax Gloss Polycrylic that looks as good today as it did nearly five years ago.

Cool plane Mike, are you saying rustoleum is fuel proof? I'd like to find that out, I'm about tired of waiting in jars of dope in the mail. I'd a whole lot rather stock up on rattle-cans. Thanks

[Joe Bowman]

Stephen, I have done it both ways and using silkspan is better.  You can make it look O.K. without silkspan but after its done you will say, I wish I had used the silkspan.  Hope you are mending well.

[stephen hollier]

Joe,
Thanks... Are you using the stuff now? In your opinion how do you feel about this stuff ...

[Joe Bowman]

I have used polycrylic(satin finish) on all my airplanes since the Shark in 02 then an automotive finish.  Basicly the Bill Wilson method.  I did not use silkspan on the fuse. & flaps on the green JD Falcon but I have on all planes since.  I like the stuff but I know some people have tried it and don't like it.  I will use it on my next plane.  Hope this helps.

[Terry Bolin]

Several of the guys use that product for finishing but only as a base coat that I know of. I have seen several of Allen Brickhaus' airplanes and they are all finsihed with it under the colors. Allen and Jack Dock both use polycrill to seal the wood with one coat, then brush on a "Slurry" (like pudding) of spackeling compound with a foam brush, Sand smooth and then spray on your primer. I would perfer the Spakle, then the polycril and then the primer for me. But I still like Sig Clear dope as a wood sealer.. There you go... alot of information, more than what you wanted.
Good luck and happy Holidays!
Terry Bolin
Neosho. MO

[Larry Fulwider]

One unarguable plus of Polycrylic is if you get some on any foam in the structure, no problem. A few days ago, I sealed some foam tips with a similar slurry. Put the leftover on some balsa as a lark, and I was surprised at the amount of filling with one coat.

So, maybe it is worth pursuing. I didn't know that was part of the Alan Brickhaus finish. Makes me even more likely to try it again.

    Larry Fulwider

[John KruziK]

When using polycrylic as a sealer, do you thin it? I have used it over silkspan thinned with alcohol. Thanks John

[Michael Boucher]

Have used it on a silkspan covered foam wing and it worked out great.