News:



  • July 07, 2025, 04:33:01 PM

Login with username, password and session length

Author Topic: Coverings  (Read 2095 times)

Offline Richard Hutlet

  • 2015
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Lieutenant
  • *
  • Posts: 54
Coverings
« on: December 28, 2014, 07:37:49 PM »
One last "new guy" question. When I last built butrate/nitrate dopes and silkspan were my preferred
coverings. Monokote was just coming into it's own but I always felt that they were "too light".
For a new comer that wants to "paint" for a lack of any other tag. Anyone fill me in on what
is new as far as anything "non iron on". I'd like to get into air brushing and such and could use
a heads up on what to look at and maybe what to avoid.

thanks again

Offline Larry Borden

  • 24 supporter
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Commander
  • *
  • Posts: 153
Re: Coverings
« Reply #1 on: December 28, 2014, 09:43:22 PM »
I came back a few years ago and my preferred method is silk and dope. I use Randolph dope, both butyrate and nitrate. Silk from Dharma Trading Co. I buy my dope from an aircraft parts place in Fort Worth.
Just my preference. Even use cloth hinges. Old school most of the way.

Online Dan McEntee

  • 25 supporter
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • *
  • Posts: 7527
Re: Coverings
« Reply #2 on: December 29, 2014, 12:26:51 AM »
   Ain't nothing wrong with doing it old school, and it still can be done these days. Silk span seems to be getting hard to find for some parts of the country. Polyspan is a new `covering material that has been on the scene for a while now, and is sort of the best of both worlds. Dope it on, heat it to shrink it, then apply dope as usual, but the material isn't as open weave type material like silk or silk span so it fills easier and requires less dope. It does take some getting used to, and there is lots of info here on the list. Sparky has a subscription series of videos that you can watch on line and has done one specifically on Polyspan, along with the rest of a traditional dope finish.  Silk is still preferred by some, especially for OTS models but it's expensive at most outlets, but the internet sources that Larry mentioned seem to be pretty reliable for that material.
   Good luck and have fun,
   Dan McEntee
AMA 28784
EAA  1038824
AMA 480405 (American Motorcyclist Association)

Offline rich gorrill

  • 23 supporter
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Commander
  • *
  • Posts: 393
Re: Coverings
« Reply #3 on: December 29, 2014, 09:18:10 AM »
In the painting and finishing section you can find oodles of ideas on finishing.
also the search feature at the top of the page can find almost anything ever posted about an item. i.e. where to buy it, how to apply it etc,

Rich

Offline Richard Hutlet

  • 2015
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Lieutenant
  • *
  • Posts: 54
Re: Coverings
« Reply #4 on: December 29, 2014, 10:38:50 AM »
Thanks,

Still learning the site but I'm sure i'll find my way through it at some point.
So far found a lot of interesting stuff.

Offline Randy Cuberly

  • 21 supporter
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • *
  • Posts: 3673
Re: Coverings
« Reply #5 on: December 29, 2014, 11:15:50 AM »
I would add to all this that if you're just returning to flying or just beginning then the plastic film coverings, at least on the wings and other open areas with dope or rattle can paints are to be highly reccommended because they are tough and easy to repair.  They're also less expensive both in money and time.  Did i mention "easy to repair"...very important when trying to learn or relearn the stunt pattern!!!  Figure 9's are the easiest maneuver to learn unfortunately!   LL~ LL~ LL~

Also a reasonable job can be obtained with care.  I built the Gieseke Nobler in the picture in two weeks from start to finish after losing my classic airplane for VSC.  Garnered 15 appearance points...certainly not front row stuff but reasonable and quick.

Kote on wings and stab elevator and rattle can paint on fuselage etc.;  cut out Kote for numbers etc.

Randy Cuberly
Randy Cuberly
Tucson, AZ

Offline Larry Borden

  • 24 supporter
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Commander
  • *
  • Posts: 153
Re: Coverings
« Reply #6 on: December 29, 2014, 05:47:22 PM »
Under the painting and finishing topic, I posted, How I Cover With Silk.

Offline Tim Wescott

  • 25 supporter
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • *
  • Posts: 12906
Re: Coverings
« Reply #7 on: December 29, 2014, 05:54:33 PM »
Hey Richard:

You mentioned the 'coats as being "light".  Monocoat and Ultracoat are just fine as far as mechanical properties go, and you can do a pretty good job with them.  So for learning to fly, they're the way to go.

But if you want to get the top finish points then yes, you need to go with a finish that involves paint.
AMA 64232

The problem with electric is that once you get the smoke generator and sound system installed, the plane is too heavy.

Offline GGeezer

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Commander
  • ****
  • Posts: 241
    • Gizmogeezer Products
Re: Coverings
« Reply #8 on: December 29, 2014, 06:09:39 PM »
Hey Richard,
You and I are only a stones-throw away from one another (out here in the wild west, that's just over 300 miles).
We have a small group of C/L enthusiasts here in Saskatoon. Maybe we can get together this summer for some flying and chin wagging.
Send me a Private Message.

Orv

Offline Richard Hutlet

  • 2015
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Lieutenant
  • *
  • Posts: 54
Re: Coverings
« Reply #9 on: December 29, 2014, 07:57:20 PM »
Just ordered the Vector 40 and some adhesives. If any of you have a decent source for
silk or silkspan let me know plz. Just paid $38.00 Canadian for 2 sq yds of silk. Not sure
if that's good or bad but I plan on painting. I've been reading the forms on coverings
and a lot of other stuff. There is almost  TOO much info there. Kinda makes the head shake.

Ggeezer thanks and will do. My wife's family is from there and I'm in Toon Town at least 4 to
6 times a year. Would love to meet you and the C'L fellas you hang with. Also let me know
which of the two shops in Saskatoon you deal with. I'm going to need an engine and lines
at some point. Not sure if I'm going to use the Fox 35 or just buy a new one. Saw something
about "ceramic" ...sleeves maybe?? haven't done the research yet.
Thanks for all the good input fellas.

Offline GonzoBonzo

  • GonzoBonzo
  • 2016 supporter
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Commander
  • *
  • Posts: 128
Re: Coverings
« Reply #10 on: December 29, 2014, 09:53:32 PM »
Good choice on the Vector.  You're in for a treat if you haven't built one of the new laser cut kits.  You might want to look for some sort of 5/16" rod or tubing to use as a jig for building the wing.  The laser cut jig holes on the ribs make building a straight tapered wing a breeze.  I was able to find some 60" aluminum tubing on the net that works well for me.  I use Lego blocks glued to a glass table to support the rods.

I'd save the Fox for a ringmaster, or another small classic.  Even with the "ceramic" cylinder, it wont have the huevos to pull a Vector.  Once you see the airfoil you'll know what I'm talking about.  About the only engine available would be the OS 46.  Probably the most popular engine for the Vector.  It's a tight squeeze though.  There's always electric, which might be a great choice if you are just getting back into it, and don't already have a bunch of IC stuff.  Check out the "Getting Amped Up" section.  Should be some electric powered Vectors in there.

JMO

Gonzo
Gonzo

Offline Geoff Goodworth

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Captain
  • *****
  • Posts: 818
Re: Coverings
« Reply #11 on: December 30, 2014, 03:40:13 PM »
Vector is an excellent choice. However, as already noted, an LA 46—or and FP 35/40—are a tight fit. In fact, straight off the plan, the engine bay is about 1/8" short if I remember correctly.

If you've ordered a kit rather than an ARC, get your engine and adjust the location of the firewall to suit when you are building the engine crutch.

If electric takes your fancy, Brodak sells a conversion kit for the Vector and the complete electric package to power it.

Offline Richard Hutlet

  • 2015
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Lieutenant
  • *
  • Posts: 54
Re: Coverings
« Reply #12 on: December 30, 2014, 08:09:08 PM »
Thanks again for the input. It is a Vector "Kit". I love building almost more than flying.
Based on what I've read in the last few days since I've joined i'm probably going to
purchase the OS 46. Even if it's to satisfy my curiosity as to why that engine has such
a love/hate relationship with people that obviously are passionate about their opinions
on the subject. That and the fact that I can not believe how few engines are available
anymore. Especially for the CL market. Seems a few companies have folded since I last flew.

Offline Hoss Cain

  • 2015
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Captain
  • *
  • Posts: 447
Re: Coverings
« Reply #13 on: January 01, 2015, 10:05:01 PM »
I would add to all this that if you're just returning to flying or just beginning then the plastic film coverings, at least on the wings and other open areas with dope or rattle can paints are to be highly reccommended because they are tough and easy to repair.  They're also less expensive both in money and time.  Did i mention "easy to repair"...very important when trying to learn or relearn the stunt pattern!!!  Figure 9's are the easiest maneuver to learn unfortunately!   LL~ LL~ LL~

Also a reasonable job can be obtained with care.  I built the Gieseke Nobler in the picture in two weeks from start to finish after losing my classic airplane for VSC.  Garnered 15 appearance points...certainly not front row stuff but reasonable and quick.

Kote on wings and stab elevator and rattle can paint on fuselage etc.;  cut out Kote for numbers etc.

Randy Cuberly

Beautiful airplane.  The smooth base certainly makes the model look far beyond any paint job that  I ever did.  Happy New Year flying that machine.
Horrace Cain
AMA L-93 CD and Leader
New Caney, TX  (NE Houston area)


Advertise Here
Tags: