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General control line discussion => Open Forum => Topic started by: scott bolton on May 04, 2009, 01:49:07 PM
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Hi all,does anyone have some good tricks in making up control lines? It seems to me to be quite tricky to keep the lines at the desired length,eyelets in position & tubing crimped. Maybe i'm missing something in the process.I do have some lines that came already made up but need to make several others. Any HELP would be awesome!!! THANKS, Scooter
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Hi Scott,
Welcome to the forum. It's good question about that line making business. I'll try to you a basic rundown.
I use a hundred foot measure tape to layout my lines against. Then using a small spring clamp to the loose end of the line and is clamped to something heavy enough not to move as you rollout the line off the spool.
At the opposite end of things I use a drill press vise to hold a 1/8 pin that the line is wrapped arround once and then back to my loose end and then cut.
You should add about 3 inches to each loose end to account for tying or crimping. (6 in. extra overall for ea. line)
For 60 ft. lines you need 60ft. 6 in. total length end to end.
Use a black sharpy to mark your measurements accurately and use the black mark to position the line on the thimble as you double it back on it self.
Using the 1/8 pin at the far end will cuase the line to bend slightly giving you a reference point at where to cut the ends.
Make sure that you never soilder the ends. Use CA. to secure those end wraps if you are wrapping them rather than crimping.
Hope this helps.
James Dean
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I've started using White-Out from the office supply to mark lines, much easier for me to see.
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I think someone did an artical in Control Line World on a wire wrapping jig from old landing gear.
I made up this jig, works great.
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I attach 2 line clips to the chain link fence in front of my house. I use a 100' tape to place a mark on my garage wall at 60'. I take a spool of bulk line and make up one end. I attach the end to the fence and unroll 60'+ and cut the line. Then I make another end on the free end of the bulk spool and attach that to the fence near the first one. I then unroll the second line 60'+ and cut it too. I then stretch both lines to take the slack out of them and cut them even with each other allowing about 4" beyond 60'. Lastly I make up the last 2 ends and usually they are dead even. I then attach a handle and pull test them. If they are going to fail, I would rather it fail now instead of later. Lastly, check the ends and see if they match, inspect all 4 ends, and run out the lines, inspecting for damage as you go. Reel them up and mark the reel with the diameter, length, and date made up.
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Cutting the actual lines can be fun too.. I use an old pair of large tin snips..
Jim
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Hi all,does anyone have some good tricks in making up control lines? It seems to me to be quite tricky to keep the lines at the desired length,eyelets in position & tubing crimped. Maybe i'm missing something in the process.I do have some lines that came already made up but need to make several others. Any HELP would be awesome!!! THANKS, Scooter
Key is to make a jig that holds the eyelet and line in tension so you hands are free to make the wrap. I designed my jig so the back end of the wood jaw is 12" from the eyelet. If I want a 60 foot line, wrap first termination, measure 59' and mark with a piece of masking tape. Register that 59' foot mark up against the back side of the jaw and wrap the 2nd end. I can consistantly make line sets within 1/8" and almost never have to make neutral adjustment when changing lines. I made a second smaller jaw for my jig to wrap leadouts. The bobbin and wire on the spool makes it easy. Get these where ever they sell fly fishing supplies in your area.
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Allan - nice wing lead out guide holder - I'll be making one of those this weekend ! Thanks for the tip.
Geno
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I agree, VERY nice wrapping jigs. There aren't any patten-pending's on those bad boys, are there?!
FlySafe! Larry (Larrys4227)
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I agree, VERY nice wrapping jigs. There aren't any patten-pending's on those bad boys, are there?!
FlySafe! Larry (Larrys4227)
No, feel free to copy. That's why I posted it..
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THANKS GUYS !!!! for all the tech tips on making up control lines. This is a fantastic web sight & forum for our awesome hobby.I have been pointed to gold mine for the control line world. I do believe that it is ALL of our responsibility to help keep this great hobby rolling for the future generations. WOOPS,sorry for preaching THANKS again gents for all the help!! scott bolton
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Hi Scott,
No one else mentioned this so,, Have you considered using "Spider Wire" I have been using it for the last 3 years and find it superior to the normal cable lines. Cheaper, lighter, less air drag, non kinking, no stretch, better feel and response, and yes, stronger. I have used them up to and including my .46 powered planes. So far everyone that I have introduced to them has been pleased and impressed.
OK guys, your turn again.
Rog
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Hi Scott,
No one else mentioned this so,, Have you considered using "Spider Wire" I have been using it for the last 3 years and find it superior to the normal cable lines. Cheaper, lighter, less air drag, non kinking, no stretch, better feel and response, and yes, stronger. I have used them up to and including my .46 powered planes. So far everyone that I have introduced to them has been pleased and impressed.
OK guys, your turn again.
Rog
What material is it and how do you terminate the ends ?
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Wow...I use Spiderwire for my 1/2As, up to .061, up to 52' long, have done so for several years and very happy with the stuff (any fishing line that is "non-stretch" will work as well) but I never even considered using it for larger models. On a .46? What strength Spiderwire are you using? And yes, how do you deal with the ends? I use a fisherman's Palomar knot to a line connector for mine, again would seem sorta shaky on a big model.
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Hi Guys,
Last Fall, Phil Spillman was flying with us and asked about my lines. He had just flown one of his planes and I hooked his airplane to my lines and said "fly it again". With much concern, he did just that. On completion of the flight, his comment was "that's the best it ever flew". #^ ; This Spring he was at our field and the question came up again. Then and there I made up a set of 62 ft. lines. (15 mins.) He attached them to his Brodak War Bird with a LA .46 and flew, what he called, one of the best patterns he had ever done. ;D (You might want to talk to him.)
I have talked to Phil Cartier (spelling?), a combat hero and present stunter, who is also supporting this new type of line. He is promoting it for combat. AMA approved this year. (Check it out) :o
Line termination is the MOST important factor. My process is:
Measure as you would cable, except leave an additional 18 to 24 inches.(I like lots of extra line for tying)
Mark the line with a visible ink spot 9 to 12 inches from the end. (both lines evenly)
Tie your connector directly to the line at the marked point. (with the knot specified below)
Repeat with second line.
Attach both lines to the same anchor point and recheck the opposite end marked points for accuracy.
Tie your connector directly to the line at the marked point. (with the knot specified below)
Repeat with second line.
Now connect both lines to two control handles. (one at each end) do several (4 to 6) pull tests.
Re inspect all knots for integrity.
Hook 'em up and go flyin'
The knot I use is a modified Clinch Knot.
Lets see if I can get the picture here.
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Rog, what weight Spiderwire are you using with your .46? It comes in everything from 2# to 60#, maybe higher. I generally use 6-8# for my 1/2As.
--Ray
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Hi guys:
For terminations of cables or lead out of wing, then use this method.
elizio - Brazil
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A small amount of time making up a jig will save hours of frustration trying to wrap without one.
I measure out my lines, plus 8 inches.
I have a "fixture" on my jig that tells me when I have just enough to make the wraps (about 4 inches for me) - the fixture is just a piece of scrap ply with a hole where it slips over the eyelet hook of my jig with another line drawn to mark the end of the wire. Once the cut end of my line is level with the line on my fixture (with my fixture on the eyelet hook) tighten everything down and I'm ready to wrap.
I colour code my lines with coloured heat shrink, so I put two pieces of the one colour on each line and wrap one end of each line using the above measuring procedure and then wrap as per AMA guidelines.
When I'm finished wrapping this end of the lines I shrink one piece of heatshrink over each end. I then unwind my lines, check that they are actually the same length, put a piece of tape on the unwrapped end so that I don't lose the heatshrink and wind in the lines so that I can do the other end.
Takes longer to describe than to do.
The jig makes wrapping ends a joy. I also find it useful for wrapping leadouts I can connect the bellcrank to my eyelet hook and wrap as for lines.
Really takes the pain out of wrapping lines.