I usually cut formers for the length of block. For full length shell, probably 6 or 8 of them. Glue them to a base (I have some 1/2 inch balsa stock just for this occasion - maybe 20lb stock). Then I glue some blue or gray foam in between the formers. Block it down using the vertical shape I want and finish sand it. then I glass the whole thing, sand it down and use this as a molding block. It works for me.
My approach is even simpler than that:
1) cut formers the length of the block about every 3 inches or so
2) cut the base from any 1/2" scrap wood you can find at the Home Depot. shape it so it is flush with the former sides.
3) a bunch of years ago I bought a sheet of thick insulation foam. Cut the chunks to fit between the formers. Hot glue them in(5 min epoxy is an overkill but will work as well).
4) carve foam with #26 xacto wittling blade to rough shape
5) rough sand to shape with #60 paper. fine sand it with 120 or 150 grit. Make sure to use long blocks to make sure you maintain the overall shape. If you make an accidental divot, you can use regular white Balsa filler. It will not dissolve when wet balsa sheet is wrapped around the buck.
6) cut a 2" wide strip of wood to be glued perpendicularly to the base. It will act as a holding handle.
That's it. you're done. you can mold balsa over it! It usually takes me about 15 minutes to make a mold.
Soak sheets in a mix of hot water and ammonia for about 5 minutes and wrap it around the mold by wrapping it with elastic bandages with clips they used to wrap sprained ankles or knees. Like this:
http://cvs.com/shop/product-detail/CVS-Elastic-Bandage-With-Clips-3-Inches?skuId=160093I usually do it before going to sleep. the whole thing is dry by the morning and the mold is ready for the next set. These molds will last you forever. I've been using this approach with leading edge sheeting, top and bottom blocks and bottom sections of engine cowls. The approach is SO simple and the results are SO consistent and good, I pretty much stopped carving.