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General control line discussion => Open Forum => Topic started by: john ohnimus on December 03, 2015, 04:15:14 PM
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Made this yesterday, hopefully my wire will be in the mail box when I get to try it out!!
3/4-16 x 2" bolt. 9/64th drill blank for the pins. As it is, it will bend clips in 1/16" increments. If I drill another hole opposite the one in the head of the bolt I can bend clips in 1/32" increments.
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Looks good! What wire are you using, John?
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Do you have to use big eyelets with those clips because they're double thick where the wire crosses?
MM
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For those that can't or won't make their own, Jim Lee has these available ready to use and the wire for them also. Check him out in the vendors corner. I like mine A LOT!
And unpaid and unsolicited endorsement!
Type at you later,
Dan McEntee
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I use .047 music wire and it works fine with standard eyelets. I have a couple of different jigs for bending but the one from Jim Lee is the easiest to use, in my opinion.
Randy Cuberly
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Myself I don't use eye lets.
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Does anyone have the instruction on how to use this thing. I just cant get mine to work.
thanks Steve
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I have attached a PDF of the instructions on how to use a line clip bender.
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I have attached a PDF of the instructions on how to use a line clip bender.
Thanks for the PDF. I won't ever need to buy line clips again, looks so easy.
Never though of making my own.
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Those of you that have bought Jim Lee's .... or made your own (other than the PDF posted) ... what are you using to bend the wire with?
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Those of you that have bought Jim Lee's .... or made your own (other than the PDF posted) ... what are you using to bend the wire with?
If you open the PDF link above, it shows the bender handle. Also important is the small screw next to the post.
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Those of you that have bought Jim Lee's .... or made your own (other than the PDF posted) ... what are you using to bend the wire with?
If you open the PDF link above, it shows the bender handle. Also important is the small screw next to the post.
Yup, I did see that and why I said 'other than PDF posted'.
I've seen Jim Lee's in person, but I don't recall a bender handle going along with it. Was wondering what others are doing ....
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I'm sure you could work it around with needle nose or duck bill pliers. I would think someone who could make the nut/bolt part could easily make the bending arm too.
You can bend clips around a drill bit clamped in a vise if you're Amish. This modern tool just makes it easy.
How much pull test will these hold?
MM
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I have attached a PDF of the instructions on how to use a line clip bender.
Hi Brent,
Thanks for the pdf. I saw that in an earlier post, it explains the process very well and photo documents it too. Nice job.
In your pdf the content refers to some dimensions for locating the 2-56 screw and the 1/8" piano wire relative to each other. Are you able to share those dimensions or the sketch with us?
Reason I am asking is I was inspired by the first post in this thread to get the parts and make a jig. Heck I can do that, have the drill press, just need a few pieces parts and the dimensions.
Stopped as Ace this morning and with the nut, bolt, drills, tap, cutting oil, bar stock, music wire etc. I am now $26 into this little project and haven't even started on the fabrication. Next tool will be purchased from Jim. I'm committed now to this one. I don't know why I let myself do this to myself.
Could really use the dimensions to lay out the screw and pin on the nut:)
Thanks,
Gary
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I recently had to get some more wire for more clips at the end of summer. I had to ask Jim Lee what to get. He said to get the springier of the two choices of 302/304 stainless matt finish wire from McMaster-Carr. I don't recall what they call it "bend & stay" is what you don't want. "Spring Back" is what he recommended. I measured the clips I made from the wire I got from Jim with my bending fixture (the 3/4-16 bolt & nut design), and they miked .054" (+/- .001" from .055" nominal according to McMaster-Carr). #8908K58 (12" straight lengths) is what I got. They also have a "shiny finish", which I'd guess is drawn through a finishing die and would be stiffer due to work hardening. Not sure how that would work.
I am wondering about Ty's bender....maybe an earlier design from Jim Lee?
My advise is to make clips no more than about 1/4" longer than the stock Brodak or Sullivan clips of the same type.
You should be able to get lines equal within 1/8" without too much trouble...honest! When I got my bender, I went bonkers, making clips up to about an inch longer than stock. Absolutely a waste of wire! DO NOT make any shorter than the stock clips. Near as I can tell, Brodak and Sullivan clips are the same, except for finish. I get Sullivan clips from their online sales system. It would be great if they sold them in 10 packs or bigger quantities.
Logic says to use three stock clips and one "oddball". I'd suggest using two stock clips at the airplane and the one oddball at the handle. I leave one clip on the plane, one on the lines, and hook the lines to the plane, reel them out and hook on the handle. Some start at the other end, but I see no reason to drag your handle across the pavement. By leaving the clips on the handle, you keep your established hole spacing. You can pull on one of the lines to see which is the "up" line. A benefit of doing this is that I can remove the handle and wind up the lines between rounds in the pits...but I don't have to disconnect them from the plane. This protects my lines from pit damage. I disconnect the handle from the lines for storage, because it's easier on the lines. But opinions vary. n1 LL~ Steve
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I have made 4 of these bender sets and would recommend using a 4-40 button-head screw instead of 2-56.
If you sneeze you will break a 2-56 tap, and there is plenty of room on the face of the nut for the larger screw.
I do have a 5th nut with a broke off tap in it.
Arlan
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Here is my original post in on SSW http://www.clstunt.com/htdocs/dc/dcboard.php?az=show_topic&forum=103&topic_id=192091&mesg_id=192091&listing_type=search
The design was subsequently published in Stunt News.
Below is the fab drawing. It's a rewarding project, but if you don't have the time, get one from Jim Lee- he does a great job.
I caution you NOT to form these clips with needle nose, combination or duck bill pliers. These tools have serrated jaws and sharp corner radii that could mar or crease the wire, weakening it. Safety, not expediency, is your utmost concern while making these parts. If you must use hand tools, use round jaw pliers and inspect your work for nicks, gouges or any other flaw that could be a stress riser.
Derek Moran
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Here is my original post in on SSW http://www.clstunt.com/htdocs/dc/dcboard.php?az=show_topic&forum=103&topic_id=192091&mesg_id=192091&listing_type=search
The design was subsequently published in Stunt News.
Below is the fab drawing. It's a rewarding project, but if you don't have the time, get one from Jim Lee- he does a great job.
I caution you NOT to form these clips with needle nose, combination or duck bill pliers. These tools have serrated jaws and sharp corner radii that could mar or crease the wire, weakening it. Safety, not expediency, is your utmost concern while making these parts. If you must use hand tools, use round jaw pliers and inspect your work for nicks, gouges or any other flaw that could be a stress riser.
Derek Moran
Thank you Derek for the PDF.
I am having a hard time finding the 5/32 solid pins at the Ace Hardwares I have stopped at. Going to try with 1/8 solid on one side of the assembly and with 5/32 rolled hardened pins on other side and see how it performs.
I will post photos when finished.
Gary
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Thank you Derek for the PDF.
I am having a hard time finding the 5/32 solid pins at the Ace Hardwares I have stopped at. Going to try with 1/8 solid on one side of the assembly and with 5/32 rolled hardened pins on other side and see how it performs.
I will post photos when finished.
Gary
See if there is a motorcycle shop near you, and check out some large motorcycle chain links and measure the pins. Or even a power transmission supply place or bearing supply house. Probably looking for 50 to 60 size chain to get to 5/32" pins. The pins can be pushed out of the side plates. There aren't like diamonds but pretty hard, and probably good enough for our purposes. You might even just try 5/32" music wire if you have a piece, or a cheap Harbor Freight straight punch that might be the correct diameter and grind off a couple of lengths.
Type at you later,
Dan McEntee
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I used Jim's unit. Works a treat.
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Thank you Derek for the PDF.
I am having a hard time finding the 5/32 solid pins at the Ace Hardwares I have stopped at. Going to try with 1/8 solid on one side of the assembly and with 5/32 rolled hardened pins on other side and see how it performs.
I will post photos when finished.
Gary
This may not work out for anyone else, but the music wire I had when I built mine happened to be just enough oversize that it made a good firm press fit into the slightly oversized holes made with a 5/32 inch bit. I was planning on either pushing hard (why not?) or, if the holes were oversized, soldering or brazing the pins in place.
You can always order pins from McMaster-Carr.
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How much pull test will these hold?
For my lighter planes I use .039 music wire (1mm, probably). Those clips will deform alarmingly starting at about 50 pounds, but they hold just fine up to 70 or so, at which point I start worrying about falling on my ass or pulling my pull test rig apart. That sized clip has held up just fine for a 53 ounce Twister for the last three years, 300-500 flights.
I'm using .045 music wire for my bigger planes -- I'm wondering if I want to go bigger, but I suspect I'm OK.
I was worried at first about not using stainless, but I haven't seen any signs of corrosion on my steel clips. The story may be different if I didn't have a noisy oil-flinger on the front of my airplane.
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Music wire is 10-15 % higher tensile strength than 302-304 stainless. 17-4 stainless would be about the equivalent to music but I don't think it's readily available in wire. 17-7 stainless is available in wire but quite a bit more expensive and harder to find.
Typically with all the oil around the slimers I fly I seriously doubt anything could rust! LL~ LL~ LL~
Another drawback to Electric!!! ::)
Randy Cuberly
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I must have gotten some bad wire as it is rusty.
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I like the McMaster-Carr stuff. Jim suggested .051 stuff and that's what I ordered.