Author Topic: Legacy Build (Read 65917 times)

Paul Walker · « **Reply #200 on:** February 18, 2016, 01:02:41 AM »

Quote from: Tim Wescott on May 29, 2015, 09:33:00 PM

There's a stabilizer underneath all that stuff.

The core with surround and wood weighed in at 2.02 oz; plus glue it was 2.68 oz. Given what happened with the elevators I expect that to drop to about 2.4 oz. Not wonderful, but it's not far from what I would have gotten with the kit wood, and it should be stiffer and finish out easier.
[/quote

Like my elevator post, that stab is REAL heavy. Toss it also. Both my new stabs weighed 38 grams. Way less than 2 ounces. I have no doubt you could do this as well.

Tim Wescott · « **Reply #201 on:** February 18, 2016, 10:04:17 AM »

Steve: 6lb or better for everything except the ribs, which are scraps from the kit and feel like they're between 6 and 8.

Paul: Yes, I'm rebuilding the whole horizontal tail assembly. I was aiming at something between the atrociously heavy weight I ended up with and the seemingly magical weights you're getting. The stab, as framed up and with a lot of excess wood yet to be sanded off, is 1.4 ounces. I'm thinking I'll lose about 0.2 ounces in the process of whacking it down to match the plans.

Tim Wescott · « **Reply #202 on:** February 18, 2016, 10:23:48 AM »

For some reason the kit calls out these huge expanses of 1/2" balsa sheet in the stab and elevators -- something like 2" wide on the ends and 4" wide in the stab center. I've cut those down considerably (3/4" wide at the tips and 1-1/2" wide in the center). Hopefully this translates into less weight. I could see maybe doing it if I had some super-contest 4 pound wood, but then, I can think of better things to do with such wood than use it there.

Tim Wescott · « **Reply #203 on:** February 18, 2016, 05:07:46 PM »

On to the elevators. Just the outlines are done, but hey -- progress, right? Not shown are the internal fillets, which match those on the stab. I'm just waiting for glue to dry so I can shape the internal fillets (Sig-Bond doesn't like you putting pressure on it after a few hours, as it just reminded me).

Here's a pic of the elevator outlines, plus a bonus pic of the amount of wood that I left in the box compared to what the kit wanted me to use (the arrows point to the ends of the wood per the plan). I did the math, and it only amounts to 1/4 of an ounce or so for the stab and less for the elevators -- but lightness is lightness, and you should build in as much as you can, right?

BillP · « **Reply #204 on:** February 19, 2016, 06:11:38 AM »

Quote from: REX1945 on May 19, 2015, 12:07:28 AM

Tim,

I've bent balsa up to 3/8 square by soaking it in ammonia overnight. If the wood is selected as
soft enough, you get the feeling you could tie a piece of 1/16 into a square knot and not break it.

For 1/16 LE sheeting I usually just spray it with Windex on the outside surface and wait 5 minutes.
I think Windex has ammonia in it,

Rex

Boil big sticks in water using a small diameter capped pipe cut to the length you need...use a torch for heat and all you need to do is make steam. It will make any wood as limp as a noodle. A piece of 2x4 pine can be tied in a knot with this method...seen it personally. I had good success with a steam iron on my models too.

Tim Wescott · « **Reply #205 on:** February 20, 2016, 07:30:54 PM »

Nuthin' but a trophy shot -- lookee, I got the elevators framed up!

Randy Cuberly · « **Reply #206 on:** February 20, 2016, 10:19:47 PM »

Good Trophy!

There's an amazing amount of satisfaction in building something like this, isn't there!!

Randy Cuberly

Tim Wescott · « **Reply #207 on:** February 21, 2016, 01:32:01 AM »

Quote from: Randy Cuberly on February 20, 2016, 10:19:47 PM

There's an amazing amount of satisfaction in building something like this, isn't there!!

It keeps me going.

Tim Wescott · « **Reply #208 on:** February 22, 2016, 07:13:43 PM »

Horizontal surfaces done. 2.22 oz is what I'm going to live with this time around.

Edit:

Quote from: Paul Walker on June 02, 2015, 10:00:08 AM

Predator 2014 stab weighed 33 g before paint (1.16 ounces).

The elevator halves weighed 9 g each before paint.

With good wood you can match those numbers.

OK, I'm not Paul -- his total is 1.8 ounces, mine is 2.2. I'm going to see if I can do better next time around, perhaps with lighter wood.

Tim Wescott · « **Reply #209 on:** February 23, 2016, 08:01:21 PM »

On to the fuselage. I really like the idea of building a motor mount crutch that's all square and right and tight, and then building a fuselage around it.

So here it is, with the glue drying. I'll be finding out presently what difficulties this engenders vs. building the mounts into the fuselage.

Edit: Aaaand - I just ripped it apart and I'm re-doing it. I had the bearers parallel to one another the long way, but not the short way. I should have done a dry-fit and checked that -- I missed. Stand by...

Tim Wescott · « **Reply #210 on:** February 24, 2016, 07:48:06 PM »

The problem with using your hobby shop to do fix-it jobs around the house is that the jobs GET IN THE WAY.

Crutch dry fit, everything measured. I'm about to mix glue.

Tim Wescott · « **Reply #211 on:** February 24, 2016, 08:16:14 PM »

Glued. Fits better than the dry fit -- one of the rails was tilted a hair, which I solved with some shims under the clamps. It's on the opposite side, though, so no pictures.

This should be stronger than my original crutch -- I needed the formers in there to hold things square, but they should also keep the thing stronger if I decide I need to sand on it to make it perfect.

You can't see it, but I trimmed the formers by 1/8" on top, because I plan on using 1/4" thick motor mount plates. This isn't just a "make it better than Alan" things -- I'm going to use the motor mount plates as adapters, so I can easily swap other engines in there if I feel a need. I mean after all -- I really ought to see if a 25LA will work in this plane, right?

Tim Wescott · « **Reply #212 on:** February 25, 2016, 04:15:58 PM »

I hate kits. The fuselage sides are bowed by a hair more than 1/16" across their length. So I need to shave the tops to make them flat, and then adjust the stab opening. Oh joy. At least there was a scrap out in the metal shop that was straight and longer than the fuse -- otherwise I'd be whining about a lack of a straight edge.

Tim Wescott · « **Reply #213 on:** February 25, 2016, 04:21:35 PM »

I'm modifying things a little bit (I think that's the theme song for this whole build, actually).

I just hate the notion of whacking holes in the fuselage to put the wing in -- I keep thinking of all those nice long wood fibers that are just carelessly cut up. I especially didn't like the notion of cutting across that nice plywood doubler and leaving a huge weak spot right in between two strong spots.

So I'm pre-whacking the doubler such that when I cut the fuse open to put in the wing I'll just be cutting balsa, and in a different spot than the plywood is cut. Then, when I put the wing in, I'll put the doubler back -- and it'll be doubled by the tail end of the engine bearers. So that part of the fuselage should all be tied together much more thoroughly, without adding any more weight than was originally called out in the plans.

Tim Wescott · « **Reply #214 on:** February 26, 2016, 01:43:42 PM »

I ended up stripping a bit more than 1/16 of an inch off of the fuselage sides and the doublers. Grr. So my plane will be a bit thin up and down, but at least it won't have a sway-back.

A friend of mine was downsizing and got rid of a 4-foot diameter glass table top. I scarfed it up because I was looking for a nice flat surface to build models on (there will be a build thread on the table for that, I think). Along with that came some panes of glass that are 12" x 16" x 3/8" -- that's what I'm using to keep my fuselage sides flat while the doublers go on.

Tim Wescott · « **Reply #215 on:** February 27, 2016, 07:24:52 PM »

Today's progress: a bit of trimming on my newly-doubled fuselage halves, and a table.

I scored a 4 foot round, 5/8" thick glass table top a while back from a friend (the same one that the plates came from). Today I went to the local Habitat for Humanity thrift store and picked up a battered corner cabinet for $40. The super-complex build procedure for the table was to set the top on the cabinet. It's nice and solid, and holds up an Atlantis quite well.

Mark Scarborough · « **Reply #216 on:** February 27, 2016, 10:52:46 PM »

I am glad to see you gaining momentum again Tim..
I have finally started making myself work on something, no matter how small , every night,, one night I cut out the tips and roughed them, next night carved and hollowed one tip and got it on, next night did second one, then weight box,, on small thing... its coming together, as is yours,,
Are you planning on Portland?

Tim Wescott · « **Reply #217 on:** February 27, 2016, 11:09:17 PM »

Forgot to post the picture. Scruffy, but with a very high utility to cost ratio.

Mark Scarborough · « **Reply #218 on:** February 28, 2016, 12:05:52 PM »

now you need a spotlight,, and a turntable under the glass ( with underchassis illumination) and you could have your own air glamour show in the garage,,

are you going to make Portland? cant wait to see you fly the Atlantis,,

Tim Wescott · « **Reply #219 on:** February 28, 2016, 01:41:58 PM »

Quote from: Mark Scarborough on February 28, 2016, 12:05:52 PM

now you need a spotlight,, and a turntable under the glass ( with underchassis illumination) and you could have your own air glamour show in the garage,,

are you going to make Portland? cant wait to see you fly the Atlantis,,

I've always felt that sticking mirrors under show cars was about as classy as sticking a mirror under your date's dress.

I'm certainly planning on going to the Tune Up. If the rains abate enough for me to practice I may even fly decently.

Tim Wescott · « **Reply #220 on:** February 28, 2016, 05:35:21 PM »

Fuse front glued up, and all the vertical formers in. It's either made or ruined now.

The first picture is about how I got the glue on without making a mess -- I marked out where the "glue to" areas were, and only put epoxy on those areas. It seemed to go well.

No fuse jig, but the thing is checked every which way with triangles to make sure it's OK.

Tim Wescott · « **Reply #221 on:** February 29, 2016, 08:18:56 PM »

Well, it's ever so slightly diamond shaped as viewed from the front, so if I see a judge heading toward it with a carpenter's square I'll know I'm doomed. But I'll be able to get engine, wings and tail all in a straight line, so I think I'll keep it.

The kit gave me this lovely big hunk of 3/4" balsa for a top deck -- I'm spurning Brodak's generosity and I'm going to make a molded top deck like Bob Hunt does. Or at least I'm going to try...

Bob uses blue foam. No one has it locally, and I like the way that polyurethane foam sands. So that's what I'm using. Michaels has it in the floral arrangement section of the store, six blocks for $5. I used one block for the mold, so I'm doing pretty good.

I'm not going to go into much detail on this because Bob has a really nice write-up out there on how to do it, and I'm in doubt about whether my deviations from Bob's Way are improvements or just stupid. What you see here are, in order: the fuse top shape traced onto a hunk of lite-ply, with three blocks of foam cut from one of the store-bought blocks; the foam glued onto the lite-ply, with balsa formers tack-glued in place -- I'll use these formers in the top deck; and finally, gluing a hefty 1x2 spine onto the lite-ply outline (which I should have done first). After the glue dries I'll start sanding, and hopefully everything will work.

Mark Scarborough · « **Reply #222 on:** February 29, 2016, 10:05:32 PM »

I am going through that same learning curve myself Tim, I used sheeting on top and bottom on the Green Impact, but a different aproach. The blue foam is of course insulation foam, Home depot, or Lowes or pretty much any building supply company of worth will have it. THe thing I didnt like about the floral foam is that its fairly fragile and can compress easily ( at least the floral foam I have is) but the blue foam seems to be problematic in that its rather plastic, malleable , and doesnt cut well with sandpaper,, though I did just get a couple sheets of long board 36 grit and I will find out if that works better to rough it out,
anyway, not trying to hijack yoru thread, just sharing..
good luck,, and pick the right grain balsa for molding, learned that one the hard way too.. sigh

Tim Wescott · « **Reply #223 on:** February 29, 2016, 10:40:42 PM »

Quote from: Mark Scarborough on February 29, 2016, 10:05:32 PM

I am going through that same learning curve myself Tim, I used sheeting on top and bottom on the Green Impact, but a different aproach. The blue foam is of course insulation foam, Home depot, or Lowes or pretty much any building supply company of worth will have it. THe thing I didnt like about the floral foam is that its fairly fragile and can compress easily ( at least the floral foam I have is) but the blue foam seems to be problematic in that its rather plastic, malleable , and doesnt cut well with sandpaper,, though I did just get a couple sheets of long board 36 grit and I will find out if that works better to rough it out,
anyway, not trying to hijack yoru thread, just sharing..
good luck,, and pick the right grain balsa for molding, learned that one the hard way too.. sigh

Our local Home Depot only has the white stuff, at least as far as I've been able to find. I've got some 3" wide sheets that are A-grain along most of the width and C-grain on the last half inch or so, and I need to splice two together anyway -- so it'll be A grain all the way across when I'm done.

And yes, I'll find out soon if the floral foam is a mistake. For $10 it won't be an expensive one.

Paul Walker · « **Reply #224 on:** March 01, 2016, 12:20:36 AM »

Hey Tim,
Thanks for the heads up when I judge that plane in the future. I'll look close!!

Tim Wescott · « **Reply #225 on:** March 01, 2016, 12:23:45 AM »

Quote from: Paul Walker on March 01, 2016, 12:20:36 AM

Hey Tim,
Thanks for the heads up when I judge that plane in the future. I'll look close!!

A padded carpenter's square, please -- don't scratch the paint. It's only off by half a degree or so -- I'm not sure you could eyeball it.

Mark Scarborough · « **Reply #226 on:** March 01, 2016, 10:25:20 AM »

Quote from: Tim Wescott on March 01, 2016, 12:23:45 AM

A padded carpenter's square, please -- don't scratch the paint. It's only off by half a degree or so -- I'm not sure you could eyeball it.

Hey Tim,, he wont need to, you already told him,, no square needed,, see this is why I dont say negative stuff about mine,, all the people who judge are on here LOL

Tim Wescott · « **Reply #227 on:** March 11, 2016, 11:23:33 PM »

Actual progress. I had been stuck, agonizing over whether I wanted to carve out the top block in the front or do another molding. Carving would be easier and somewhat heavier, molding looked like it'd be much harder to get right than the back. Carving finally won, and I can make forward progress again. Obviously the carving and hollowing has yet to be done.

The plans call out carving the block, then hollowing while leaving cross-pieces in. I suspect I'm going to hollow the whole thing, then add cross-pieces (of cross-grain wood) after the fact -- y'all can laugh at me later if it turns out to be a stupid idea.

The plans show a crankcase cooling vent on top of the plane, which, after much thinking (and asking questions) I decided to retain. Thread here: http://stunthanger.com/smf/engine-set-up-tips/crankcase-cooling/. The holes are drilled and the drill marks sanded out. They don't show well because of the lighting: they're the light-colored "nostrils" up front there.

The plans show the two top blocks butted against each other. I don't like the idea of all that lovely end-to-end strength rudely interrupted in the middle: dire thoughts of a fatigue crack right there kept bothering me. I'm splicing them. It's just a lap splice, but it's still a splice and should add more strength than weight.

Tim Wescott · « **Reply #228 on:** March 12, 2016, 04:18:08 PM »

I should be doing my taxes, not playing with airplanes.

I roughed out the front top block and got it tacked down to the nose. The crankcase vents are more apparent here, as is the roughness of the roughing out. The dark spot at the back of the front top block is there because I made the rear deck a bit taller than the block supplied by Brodak, so I had to add a bit to the front top block to match. Eventually a cockpit will be whacked out of all of this, but I want to get it shaped nice first.

Not entirely obvious, but you can see the edge of a clamp reaching through the wing opening -- I make a lot of little custom one-use clamps out of balsa sticks and rubber bands. There never seems to be just the right clamp, unless you make what you need.

john e. holliday · « **Reply #229 on:** March 13, 2016, 10:24:27 AM »

Yes it is amazing what we do with scrap balsa, rubber bands, tape and clothes pins.

Tim Wescott · « **Reply #230 on:** March 13, 2016, 06:29:42 PM »

Here, Richard. I am too getting work done.

The look of those crankcase vents is inspiring me. I'm going to paint the plane green on the top; I think a light dusting of white powder around the nostrils should be suggestive, don't you think?

Tim Wescott · « **Reply #231 on:** March 13, 2016, 07:48:07 PM »

Could someone please review for me why this is fun?

Broken tap. Grr. It was feeling a little stiff, and I allowed my attention to wander about 1/4 of a turn further than I should have. Hopefully I can extract it without having to learn whether the alum trick works.

Edit: And no spare taps. Oh joy.

Mark Scarborough · « **Reply #232 on:** March 13, 2016, 08:24:56 PM »

Hey Tim, can I use that credit card to order some new wood please?
lol
Hey I know the fun, did you have any tapping oil? it makes a HUGE difference in aluminum,,

on a side note, preparing my next column, how about some pictures of the progress

Tim Wescott · « **Reply #233 on:** March 13, 2016, 08:30:46 PM »

Quote from: Mark Scarborough on March 13, 2016, 08:24:56 PM

Hey Tim, can I use that credit card to order some new wood please?

If I haven't mixed epoxy with it yet, sure.

Quote from: Mark Scarborough on March 13, 2016, 08:24:56 PM

Hey I know the fun, did you have any tapping oil? it makes a HUGE difference in aluminum,,

on a side note, preparing my next column, how about some pictures of the progress

Sharp taps make a bigger difference -- that one is from a tool box I inherited from my uncle in 1988. I finished the hole with a new bottoming tap and it cut as slick as could be. I just can't tap a straight hole with a bottoming tap.

Tim Wescott · « **Reply #234 on:** March 15, 2016, 06:03:15 PM »

Engine fits. I keep straying from the sequence in the instruction book, because I get worried if something will work and I hare off and get 'er done. But -- the engine fits, and I can easily put something different in if necessary.

Target · « **Reply #235 on:** June 27, 2017, 11:45:05 PM »

Report?
Did that OS motor work out for the Legacy?
How was the balance??

Thanks,
Chris

Randy Powell · « **Reply #236 on:** June 28, 2017, 11:59:47 AM »

Gee, Tim. Are you working on the Legacy again?

Tim Wescott · « **Reply #237 on:** June 28, 2017, 01:12:07 PM »

Quote from: Randy Powell on June 28, 2017, 11:59:47 AM

Gee, Tim. Are you working on the Legacy again?

Nope. I'm flying the Atlantis, keeping Robin in functioning airplanes (she crashed one this morning), working a full time job, and supporting my two remaining customers.

Oh, and trying to get the latest version of the TUT writing files to disk, so that Howard can record flight data before we all die of old age.

Quote from: Chris Behm on June 27, 2017, 11:45:05 PM

Report?
Did that OS motor work out for the Legacy?
How was the balance??

See my response to Randy -- basically, I'm stalled on the Legacy build, pending other things. However, now that I'm working a full time job again I'm actually getting in more shop time. Things were getting pretty grim with my business toward the end, and it was sapping my attention.

Randy Cuberly · « **Reply #238 on:** June 28, 2017, 03:26:12 PM »

Quote from: Tim Wescott on June 28, 2017, 01:12:07 PM

Nope. I'm flying the Atlantis, keeping Robin in functioning airplanes (she crashed one this morning), working a full time job, and supporting my two remaining customers.

Oh, and trying to get the latest version of the TUT writing files to disk, so that Howard can record flight data before we all die of old age.

See my response to Randy -- basically, I'm stalled on the Legacy build, pending other things. However, now that I'm working a full time job again I'm actually getting in more shop time. Things were getting pretty grim with my business toward the end, and it was sapping my attention.

Yeah, Being in business for yourself is a "Bitch". Everybody wants everything for free or cheap and there's nobody else to blame for anything! No place to hide either!

I've done it also and believe me when I say...NO MORE! It's Heart Attack City! Made a few good friends and a few enemies and decided it's just not worth it! Still owed a LOT of money that I'll probably never collect!

More fun just building model airplanes!

Randy Cuberly

Randy Cuberly

Target · « **Reply #239 on:** June 28, 2017, 06:02:37 PM »

Ok, Tim. Glad it's on the hit list for you now.
I was curious if you'll stick with the OS .55 it looks like you have in the nose, and if it'll be light enough not to throw off your balance. Not to mention how they run for stunt.
I'm looking for something of a similar power, that's why.

Tim Wescott · « **Reply #240 on:** June 28, 2017, 08:49:24 PM »

Quote from: Chris Behm on June 28, 2017, 06:02:37 PM

Ok, Tim. Glad it's on the hit list for you now.
I was curious if you'll stick with the OS .55 it looks like you have in the nose, and if it'll be light enough not to throw off your balance. Not to mention how they run for stunt.
I'm looking for something of a similar power, that's why.

It's a 46AX-II, and I'm giving it a whirl because the 46LA is no longer in production. I may end up having no end of trouble with it -- that's part of the reason why I built the thing with aluminum bearers for the motor: I can swap in just about anything with a smaller crank case than the AX, and just about anything you might want shoved in there is that size or smaller.

I'm currently flying Paul Walker's 1988 Atlantis, with a 46LA in it, and at 64 ounces and 700 square inches it flies great. If you're not going to get a purpose-built stunt engine I think the sensible thing to do is to use a bone-stock 46LA. (Sensible-er would be a piped PA, if you can get one. I may or may not be that sensible: I'm definitely not flush enough to buy the setup).

Randy Cuberly · « **Reply #241 on:** June 28, 2017, 10:06:45 PM »

Quote from: Tim Wescott on June 28, 2017, 08:49:24 PM

It's a 46AX-II, and I'm giving it a whirl because the 46LA is no longer in production. I may end up having no end of trouble with it -- that's part of the reason why I built the thing with aluminum bearers for the motor: I can swap in just about anything with a smaller crank case than the AX, and just about anything you might want shoved in there is that size or smaller.

I'm currently flying Paul Walker's 1988 Atlantis, with a 46LA in it, and at 64 ounces and 700 square inches it flies great. If you're not going to get a purpose-built stunt engine I think the sensible thing to do is to use a bone-stock 46LA. (Sensible-er would be a piped PA, if you can get one. I may or may not be that sensible: I'm definitely not flush enough to buy the setup).

Tim,
Both the 55AX and the 46AXII will run great in a Stunter. The venturi size is a little more critical on the 46 but mine works well with a .275 size with a Aero Needle assembly. The 45 is very strong and will fly just about anything you want to put it in. A 12.5-4 APC or 12-4.25 bolly or Mejelic 3 blade also works great.

The 55AX is a power house (albeit a bit heavy at 12.25 oz with a tongue muffler) that will turn 13-4 APC or even 13-4 three blades with ease. I ran a 55AX in a ARF SV22 for a while and it was a great combination. I finally gave it to Chip Hyde several years ago when he crashed his ratty old Nobler and he flew it for quite a while until he bought a Crossfire from Hunt. I got the engine back from him after that and still have it. It still works very well. I used a .284 venturi with an Aero needle assembly and two layers of panty hose on the venturi. I would guess that about a .280 venturi or a bit smaller would be perfect also without the panty hose material. The 55AX is a very flexible engine set up that way and would definitely fly any stunter anyone would want to build. It's also a very tractable engine that shows absosutely no tendency to run away or speed up in maneuvers. Closest thing to a pipe set up of any engines I have used. Used a tongue muffler from RSM designed for the OS46AF series with every other hole in the muffler enlarged to .156.

It used 5.5 oz of 15% nitro fuel for the pattern both here and in CA.

I don't understand why more people haven't discovered this engine given the expense and shortage of anything else that runs as well.

Randy Cuberly

Target · « **Reply #242 on:** June 29, 2017, 12:24:04 AM »

Thanks for the details, Randy.
What does the .46AX weight (if you remember) and would you pick the 46 or the 55 for a 650" plane? From what I can tell on the OS website, the .46 is one ounce lighter without muffler than the .55 without the muffler. Wonder what the difference in the carb weights are, but in theory, if the .55 is 12.8oz with a nylon venturi, then maybe the .46 is 11.8 or so?
I would like to know if you have the info though.
Thanks.

Target · « **Reply #243 on:** July 14, 2017, 10:15:09 PM »

FYI-

The OS.46AXll weights 11.5 oz with no muffler, carb or remote needle valve. I just weighed mine.
I hope the tongue muffler and venturi and needle weigh about 1oz, probably they will weigh a bit more, I would guess.
So maybe 13oz RTF I would guess.

Tim Wescott · « **Reply #244 on:** February 02, 2019, 09:32:41 PM »

Quote

Warning: this topic has not been posted in for at least 120 days.
Unless you're sure you want to reply, please consider starting a new topic.

Yea, yea, yea.

Cleaned up my bench today so I could work on the Ercoupe. I made enough room that while I'm waiting for glue to dry on the one, I can work on the other!

Like a hostage holding a newspaper, I include proof that this is actually today, and not a pic from long ago (although, the Ercoupe fuselage in the background is proof, too).

Tim Wescott · « **Reply #245 on:** February 02, 2019, 09:37:10 PM »

Top block's been waiting for a very long time for me to do something to it. Here's the weight before I started hollowing, the hollowed block, and hollowed + former. Rather than trying to hollow out multiple wells the way everyone seems to want me to do, I decided to hollow it all out and fit a former to it. Hopefully it won't turn out to be a dumb idea.

It's hollowed exactly to the depth of my courage, and no farther. You can see light through it all across the well, including one spot in front where you can see a scary amount of light. I may rub some Ambroid on that spot.

The former is glued in with Gorilla Glue, because the fit's not all that good.

Doug Burright · « **Reply #246 on:** February 02, 2019, 10:16:52 PM »

Tim,

I built the Allen Brickhaus Legacy from a Brodak kit. It went together pretty well. About the only modification I made was to make it a take apart model. As the Legacy is a rather large airplane, I thought making it come apart for transport would make it easier. Of course, there are no instructions, or accommodations to adapt the airplane for that modification. I think I did rather well.

Good luck with yours!

Doug Burright · « **Reply #247 on:** February 02, 2019, 10:27:04 PM »

Another picture that I couldn't get to stick to my last post.

Doug Burright · « **Reply #248 on:** February 02, 2019, 10:29:29 PM »

What the heck- one more...

Crist Rigotti · « **Reply #249 on:** February 03, 2019, 07:02:22 AM »

Nice. I'd be a little leary on using a clevis for the elevator pushrod.