ARF Flight Streak CG

[Bob Disharoon]

I received my second ARF FS from Tower ( the first bit birt immediately because I used the 3.5 inch aft CG in the book)...They send me a freebie because I mailed the first back in a bag. The booklet STILL  says 3.5 aft which is totally wrong. What should the correct CG be ?....thanx, Bob

[George]

Bob,

It should be one inch behind the leading edge. That's where the Brodak kit plan shows it, and that plan was created/approved by George Aldrich, designer of the Flite Streak. Once you have flown it a few times, you can move the CG back a little at a time if you prefer more sensitivity.

BTW, guys have been complaining to Top Flite about that C/G setting since the plane was released. Apparently fell on deaf ears.

George

[bill marvel]

I received my second ARF FS from Tower ( the first bit birt immediately because I used the 3.5 inch aft CG in the book)...They send me a freebie because I mailed the first back in a bag. The booklet STILL  says 3.5 aft which is totally wrong. What should the correct CG be ?....thanx, Bob

Bob
I set mine up following the Brett Buck/Dirty Dan specs and using their recommended 1 1/4 inch behind the leading edge as a starting point.  The ARF FS was a mite touchy for these old reflexes so I added an ounce of lead to the nose.  That settled her down.  Then I removed 1/4 ounce.  It was better.  I removed 1/4 oz. more and it was perfect for me.  That works out to 1 1/2 inches back from the LE.  Anyplace right around that location will be a safe starting point.

BTW, I removed another 1/4 oz and she turned much tighter.  But, the landings got iffy.  So I put the 1/4 oz. weight back on (for a total of 1/2 oz.).  She does lovely takeoffs and lands herself.  It may be a little more stable than you want but you can certainly play with it to fit your needs.

regards,
bill marvel

[john e. holliday]

When I assembled my ARF Streak I kinda looked at the book.  Replaced the leadouts as I didn't like the way they were crimped.  It was assembled and an LA 25 mounted with the stock tank.  Did not fly long enough to get full pattern consistantly, so my flying partner built me one similar to his tank.  Never checked the C/G.  Hung it by the leadouts to see how it hung, a little nose down.  Only other thing was put a trim tab on to get wings to fly level.  Checked and rechecked the wing, stab and anything I could think of to get the wing to fly level, therefore the Coke Can trim tab.  It is still on the plane even tho the plane needs a new nose after two grandaughters and several times of gluing back on.  But, basically I check the balance on a plane by lifting at the spar at the wing tips.  Have fun,  DOC Holliday

[Bob Disharoon]

Thanks, guys..that settles that. One thing I did immediately was to cut away everything inside the wing opening and basically fill as much of the hollow fuse with 1/4 by 1/4 balsa sticks, pushed as far fore and aft as possible.Then saturated the whole thing with wood glue.It was amazing how much wood "disappeared" into the fuse.Hopefully the nose will stay on for a while..it's worth the xtra weight!....Bob

[taildragger-j3]

3.5 centimeters is about 1.5 inches. Maybe they just mistakenly used "inches" instead of "centimeters" to describe how far back the CG was supposed to be. Just a guess.

[john e. holliday]

Hey, that sounds logical.  Have fun,  DOC Holliday

[Bob Disharoon]

Doc..I really think you nailed it !..Bob