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General control line discussion => Open Forum => Topic started by: Dennis Toth on February 28, 2016, 02:37:40 PM
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Guys,
Getting to the point of completing the leadout ends and was wondering what is the current trend for the alignment of the ends? I have done them even up and also making one and inch or so short so as not to have the clips overlapping. What have you done?
Best, DennisT
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I want to hear from the experts. If you're going to stagger them, stagger them by a bit more than the full throw of the bellcrank.
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Guys,
Getting to the point of completing the leadout ends and was wondering what is the current trend for the alignment of the ends? I have done them even up and also making one and inch or so short so as not to have the clips overlapping. What have you done?
Best, DennisT
It should have to be much more than an inch! I just leave them equal and I don't have a problem with them interfering. It also allows my buddies and I to use each other's lines in a pinch.
Brett
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Years ago I used to offset them because it was thought that they could catch and interfere with each other and cause problems. I lost a model once when the controls locked up in the outside loops and could find no other cause after looking through the remains, and thought it may have been the leadout connections hanging up. But as time went on, it seemed to be kind of a pain, especially when winding the lines up, or shortening lines and such. I retrospect, if they do interfere with each other, it may be because the leadouts are way too long. It seems like these days my leadouts have more separation as they leave the wing tip and leadout guides, as I try to have individual adjustable leadouts. And there are the reasons Brett stated that are good enough by themselves alone.
Type at you later,
Dan McEntee
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Years ago I used to offset them because it was thought that they could catch and interfere with each other and cause problems. I lost a model once when the controls locked up in the outside loops and could find no other cause after looking through the remains, and thought it may have been the leadout connections hanging up. But as time went on, it seemed to be kind of a pain, especially when winding the lines up, or shortening lines and such. I retrospect, if they do interfere with each other, it may be because the leadouts are way too long. It seems like these days my leadouts have more separation as they leave the wing tip and leadout guides, as I try to have individual adjustable leadouts. And there are the reasons Brett stated that are good enough by themselves alone.
Type at you later,
Dan McEntee
I had it happen frequently with the slide-clips. I switched to the original scissor-clips (McMahon snaps) and never had any more problems. Just another reason to avoid the Luxon type connectors.
Brett
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I stagger them enough that there's no wat they can interfere with each other. However, the primary reason is so that they can't be hooked up different and take off not knowing.
If they do get hooked up backwards, your handle will typically be at full throw the wrong way when you pick it up. A significant clue that something is wrong.
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I stagger them enough that there's no wat they can interfere with each other. However, the primary reason is so that they can't be hooked up different and take off not knowing.
If they do get hooked up backwards, your handle will typically be at full throw the wrong way when you pick it up. A significant clue that something is wrong.
The last pre-flight test I do before taking off is to move the handle around while looking at the elevator. I've had to abort two flights so far (one at a contest), but I have yet to take off with the controls reversed.
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The last time I tried to take off with a backward hook up was last summer. It resulted in about 8 laps on the ground. Trike gear on my Freedom 45 saved me. I was able to switch the handle and flew out the tank. All of my new stuff has staggered lead outs, about 2 inches.
Come to think about it, I always hook them up backward!
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I always make leadouts the same, because my lines are cut exactly even. A bit of paint on the "up" line end prevents hooking up backwards.
When wrapping leadouts, I match them by putting a drill through both eyelets while wrapping with 27ga. copper wire.
Floyd
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One way that I use to keep from getting them crossed is to leave one clip on the model's leadout, and the other one on the lines..
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I make my lead outs the same length and only long enough to get full bell crank movement. Also I leave the up clip on the plane when I roll up the lines. Bootlegger beat me.
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I leave the clips on the lead outs and hold them straight with heat shrink tubing. Keeps them from wandering around.
MM