Last one I have,propeller

[jim gilmore]

I know there are guys who make propellers but was curious what it would cost to duplicate the last Testors 6/3 I have. It is a kind of unique looking prop and I have no clue when or where I got it. But It does run well on a norvell .061.

[Roger Vizioli]

Jim,
Never had one of those Testors props, so couldnot test one.
FYI - we are using APC 6x2's and having great luck, engine holds speed, doesnot load down in maneuvers. Try one if you get a chance.
Just my $.02.   
Roger Vizioli

[minnesotamodeler]

That's my prop of choice too, for the Norvel .061...APC 6x2 for stunt, 5.7x3 if you want a little more speed.  Norvels like to rev.  And I like to hear 'em.

[George]

I know there are guys who make propellers but was curious what it would cost to duplicate the last Testors 6/3 I have. It is a kind of unique looking prop and I have no clue when or where I got it. But It does run well on a norvell .061.

If it's the one at the top of this pic, it probably became extinct along with the Testors 8000:

George

[jim gilmore]

Yep, thats it. If I knew how to mold one I'd mold it' I like the shape.

[M Spencer]

Try " moulding Props " on search - google .

[don Burke]

try steve wilk, he makes ELIMINATOR props.

[Steve Helmick]

I did just exactly what Mathew Spencer suggested in his post, and quickly found this link. Looks like all the info you need.  http://members.cox.net/davidfee/PROPS.html

With Bolly going Tango Union, and Brian Eather hanging up his spurs for a few years, it looks like we might all be having to learn a new skill. A good start is getting a nice hunk of aluminum plate drilled and reamed for a slip fit for a 1/4" dowel pin (or whatever size you want for the shaft hole). I have spoken to Tom Knoppi (former F2C team member), and he says the way to make good props is to make a mold, make a prop. Correct that prop, and use it to make a better mold. Hopefully, two molds will be all you need to make. Use the same baseplate for both, duh.
The racers and speed guys don't seem to use heat to repitch their props, and may select different resins for that reason.   Steve

Edit: Sorry, Jim Gilmore...I scrolled down as I wrote that post, to look at the previous posts, and took the name nearest the post to be the author of the post. What an obvious ploy that is! Take a look...you'll see what I mean. 

[jim gilmore]

"I did just exactly what Jim Gilmore suggested in his post, and quickly found this link. Looks like all the info you need."
What did I suggest ?

[Scott Jenkins]

"The racers and speed guys don't seem to use heat to repitch their props, and may select different resins for that reason."

The basic reasons we do not use heat to repitch a prop are simple #1 Reheating a plastic prop (in my humble opinion) is a no no it changes the characteristics of the plastics used to make the prop and in some cases if heated too much may embrittle a prop to the point it would be dangerous to use. #2 Most carbon graphite based props are made with high end epoxys that once set are done. They do not respond to any heat treatment, again enough heat to change the pitch on a carbon based prop is way to much. Making your own molds and pitching your own props is a very satisfying experience and will help you to better understand how to get the most out of your engine regardless of whether you are flying stunt or racing or speed. Please remember that most of the props and engines used for stunt are operating at considerably lower rpm's than racing and speed people are looking for. A prop failure in these venues are usually certain death for a model due to the rpm's we are tring to achieve. Therefore good strength and sound structure and materials are paramount in making a prop for any event.

Scott