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General control line discussion => Open Forum => Topic started by: Steve Helmick on May 19, 2020, 05:13:14 PM
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What sort of glue would you choose?
I've got some cement blocks, but maybe not enough to weigh it down if I was to use urethane glue.
I have a bottle of Titebond III, but I don't want to wait months for it to dry thoroughly, clear to the center of 16" width.
I have a pack of epoxy, but probably not enough to cover 3,072 square inches, and I don't want to get the surface 1/3 coated and find out it isn't enough.
I could buy a bin of that waterproof glue that we used to build plywood boats from in wood shop. The brown stuff you mix from powder and water. It is high on my list of options.
I don't want to use contact cement, because I want it to be rigid and solidly glued and not squirmy or wiggly at all.
I need it to be waterproof, 'cause it's a platform for the bench seat in the boat, because the old seats got eaten by a family of raccoons (apparently).
I am NOT going to use polyester resin. Hate that crap, hate the smell, hate everything about it.
Whatcha got to suggest? ??? Steve
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I would suggest using the paste we all used in kindergarten 😎
Larry, Buttafucco Stunt Team
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You could get creative and start with some 20 MM Russian birch (5 ply) and face it with carbon fibre cloth and epoxy. That would be at least as strong as 3/4" laminated material.
(Just how heavy are the people you allow to get on your boat?)
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Buy a quart of West Systems laminating epoxy. It's sure, anyway. Or, just go with a piece of 3/4 finish ply.
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You can vacuum bag it to clamp it.
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I guess the powdered stuff is probably weldwood so that's what I'd use.
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Randy has the right stuff. Buy the metering pumps along with the laminating resin and you are good to go. They have different hardeners for different curing times. Resin is the same for all applications. The "West" system was developed by and for wood boat builders. Best way to go and is reasonable cost wise. I use it on my stunt planes. https://www.westsystem.com/
Best of luck;
Larry
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The powdered resorcinol glue is probably your cost effective choice.
West Systems epoxy would be the second choice.
I build cabinets for a living.
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The powdered resorcinol glue is probably your cost effective choice.
Can you still get that? I looked for some recently and couldn't find it. Works dandy for teak.
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Can you still get that? I looked for some recently and couldn't find it. Works dandy for teak.
DAP/Weldwood says yes.
Aircraft Spruce says they have it.
I'm surprised it isn't banned. Because it's good. And works.
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Howard, they had the powdered resorcinol glue at Dunn Lumber and I'm sure McLendon's would have it. I'm just not sure if it'd dry/harden completely across 16", or if the middle would stay soggy, like Titebond. I was going to email Alan Resinger and ask him, but Dan probably knows or could speculate? Is it air dry or a chemical reaction? I've mixed a lot of it up, but haven't used it for laminating.
Once I get it glued up I'll eventually end up with three hinged pieces about 20"-24" each plus one fixed piece about 4-6", all 15.5" wide, supporting two bucket seats and a center step to the rear deck. It's a bass boat, and way older than it should be. y1 Steve
Edit: I did a Googley and it appears that Wallymart has it, at least by online order.
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It’s a two-part glue. It’s not an air-dry . It also doesn’t fill gaps well but that shouldn’t present a problem for your use. I would make an applicator trowel/ scraper from Formica with some shallow saw kerfs maybe 1/4” apart to spread.
If this doesn’t work I will claim that I got hacked and deny everything.
This is the glue that my dad used to build one and repair several boats with.
I have used it to laminate 1/8 ply buildups for elliptical doors that got veneered.
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Thanks for getting back to me on this, Dan. I will sleep better tonight, knowing which glue I will use. Won't sleep with the fishies, but that's ok! LL~ Steve
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I've used Resorcinol on a boat transom layup of layers of 3/4 inch mahogany. Its a powder and a liquid. Its the same glue used to laminate exterior plywood. If mixed properly it cures solid in a timely manner, but you have plenty of working time. It doesn't expand like urethane and cause parts to shift. It does penetrate the plywood to make a good bond. It is a dark purplish color.
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Gorilla glue works well and drys in a day. Be sure to clamp well as it expands. You will have to sand off the edges but it is strong.
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Steve,
We always used Weldwood the brown powder mix with water or Resorsanel urethane powder mix. It kicked off in the early 1970s most likely still does. A lot of Rawson gillnetters , sailboats & Seiners are held together with it. If you are lamenating a transom it might be best to try another method ...
John L.
Not meaning to undermine what Frank says ,, but I have seen lots of this work done in my time on the job.
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As Sparky says, Gorilla Glue for almost all laminating. It will also show you all the little holes in a sheet of balsa wood. Two sheets of 1/4 inch become as stiff as a base ball bat. D>K