stunthanger.com
General control line discussion => Open Forum => Topic started by: Scott Richlen on October 20, 2021, 09:01:41 AM
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I made another and this one I got down to 1.6 ounces, significantly better than the first one I made at 2.35 ounces (practice makes perfect!)
Stock muffler is around 2.9 ounces.
After taking the sanding belt to it to remove the cooling fins, I also sanded it with 320 to smooth out the scratches from the sanding belt. And then, just for kicks, I polished it up using the buffer attachment on my Dremel. Tail stock has a good angle on it to deflect the exhaust but you can't see it from the angle of the pictures.
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almost too pretty to use y1
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I made another and this one I got down to 1.6 ounces, significantly better than the first one I made at 2.35 ounces (practice makes perfect!)
Stock muffler is around 2.9 ounces.
After taking the sanding belt to it to remove the cooling fins, I also sanded it with 320 to smooth out the scratches from the sanding belt. And then, just for kicks, I polished it up using the buffer attachment on my Dremel. Tail stock has a good angle on it to deflect the exhaust but you can't see it from the angle of the pictures.
Scott, How did you attach the rear part?
Thank you, Jerry
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I made another and this one I got down to 1.6 ounces, significantly better than the first one I made at 2.35 ounces (practice makes perfect!)
Stock muffler is around 2.9 ounces.
After taking the sanding belt to it to remove the cooling fins, I also sanded it with 320 to smooth out the scratches from the sanding belt. And then, just for kicks, I polished it up using the buffer attachment on my Dremel. Tail stock has a good angle on it to deflect the exhaust but you can't see it from the angle of the pictures.
Nice work. With a lathe the removal of 30% to 40% of the inside material could be possible?
I have two of these NIB, anyone interested?
Charles
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Scott, How did you attach the rear part?
Thank you, Jerry
The cone and stinger can be assembled using JB-Weld, just make this as tight if an interference fit as possible. And if you have or know someone with a TIG welder, that helps also.
Scott! You can cut the main body of the chamber much shorter also and not hurt anything. That may get you down to an ounce. I would also make the stinger as big as possible and as short as possible.
Type at you later,
Dan McEntee
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Looks nice! I like using a outlet pipe with a .360 ID. If you need a dozen extra laps at the end of the pattern you can make a .020 reducer to fit inside it.
Al
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How did you plug the hole in the front?
Motorman 8)
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JB it, wipe clean, scotch tape over it, stand it on the tape end till dry.
Al
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Scott, How did you attach the rear part?
JB Weld. I used it to attach the stinger and also the rear cone. This is the second one I've done. The first one has held together fine, so I have confidence in JB Weld.
How did you plug the hole in the front?
JB Weld, of course.... ;D Just like Al, above (whose idea it is that I have stole to make these mufflers. Thanks again Al!!)
Scott! You can cut the main body of the chamber much shorter also and not hurt anything.
Dan - I'm not so sure about that. In my other posting I tried other mufflers on my LA-46 and they seemed to de-stabilize it. My approach here is to keep the same volume and shape of the primary chamber of the E-3030, and also the exit area. I have eliminated the secondary chamber and fins to get my weight savings.
I'm not sure what the deal is with the LA-46s. I had one years ago in my Fun51 that the more I increased venturi size and reamed out the exhaust tail pipe (finally cutting it off and drilling an even larger hole), the more "guttier" it ran.
With the LA-46s I have now, if I use the wrong muffler or try to open up the stock one too much, the engine wants to (unload and) run fast in level flight but shows no increase (in fact, a decrease) in power in maneuvers. I don't get it. I guess I shouldn't have given away my old one. Just not sure why the newer ones do that.