stunthanger.com
General control line discussion => Open Forum => Topic started by: John G. Park on January 01, 2015, 11:57:20 AM
-
Some time ago I read somewhere about K2R or something close to that but that it was no longer available.
Roaming the state I found an old Hdw store that had some on the shelf ...
...but they had about 3 formulas.
I only remember Marine and stain remover.
Is K2R (or whatever) all the same and which should I be looking for
Thanks
-
Save your money and use a MonoKote heat gun. I did a pretty thorough test of all the available methods of removing oil, and some one suggested heating with a heat gun. This by far worked the best. Works better that K2R, which is pretty expensive but did an OK job on balsa. Heat the parts with a heat gun and watch the oil come to the surface. Have paper towels ready to blot the oil off. Keep the heat gun moving a bit and you won't even scorch the wood when the oil quits flowing. A paper towel with acetone on it toward teh end helps also. A slurry made from corn starch and acetone works but not as well. Try it, you'll like it!
Type at you later,
Dan McEntee
-
As well as the corn starch and acetone, talcum powder and acetone will work. I speculate that the acetone penetrates into the wood floating the oil out then the cornstarch or talc absorb it. Seems to me that it works that way.
Haven't had the need lately, but next time I will try the heat gun. ;D
BIG Bear
-
Save your money and use a MonoKote heat gun. ....
It's rather difficult to get a heat gun into a cowled nose. K2R can easily be sprayed onto a firewall or tank compartment. I suppose an acetone/talc solution can also be poured or sprayed into deep crevices as well.
-
It's rather difficult to get a heat gun into a cowled nose. K2R can easily be sprayed onto a firewall or tank compartment. I suppose an acetone/talc solution can also be poured or sprayed into deep crevices as well.
Put the flat nozzle on the heat gun and you might be surprised where the hot air can go. If the fuse is that bad, soak the nose in a coffee can of acetone for a few hours. This is why tank and engine compartments should be coated with a brushed on coat of thinned epoxy when new.
Type at you later,
Dan McEntee
-
I have used the K2r before. Ive used it many of times and it works great. I still have a half can left. Getting ready to use it on another plane.
-
A slurry made with talcum powder and Iso-Propyl alcohol will work too! I'd hesitate to use acetone since it will dissolve epoxy if left on for any length of time. The heat from a Mono-Coat heat gun should be sufficient rather than one of those stronger heat guns. I hope that K-2R is still available. I am almost out of my supply of cans of that stuff!
Phil Spillman
-
As a follow up to this post I went to my all time source for K2R and found only a product to stop the static in carpets! I guess that this product just plain isn't available anymore!
Phil Spillman
-
You could try getting it direct
http://www.k2rbrands.com/products/index.htm
-
As a follow up to this post I went to my all time source for K2R and found only a product to stop the static in carpets! I guess that this product just plain isn't available anymore!
Phil Spillman
Amazon lists several sources for K2R Spot Remover as cheap as $9.95 a spray can. This is the stuff I always used. However I agree that a heat gun works just as well or better and doesn't take as long!
Randy Cuberly
-
I have recently bought 3 cans from the local hardware store