No one must use the search feature here! This has been covered more times than carter's has little liver pills! Save your money that you use to buy chemicals and get out your Monokote heat gun and boil the oil out. I didn't invent this, I learned about it here on the forums. K2R is SSSSSLLLLLLOOOOOOOOOOOWWWWW and messy. Mixing up your home brew slurry isn't much better. Just heat the area with your monokote heat gun, watch the oil come to the surface, then wipe it off with a paper towel. Work steady, keep the gun moving. You won't scorch the wood if you are careful at all. When the oil is completely out of the wood, it just stops oozing, then move along to the next section. I learned this when I needed to recover my Primary Force ARF. After a bazillion flights , all the China coat was falling off or delaminating. The right side wheel pant weighed about 20 times more than the left side from the oil soaking and that was affecting flight. The whole left side of the model was oil soaked from nose to tail. I checked into everyone's favorite method, and I forget who suggested it, but I tried everything just as a test, and heat wins hands down. I got the wheel pant within a few grams of the right one, and took a significant amount of weight off the model. When I thought I was finished, I went back over the whole thing one more time just to check, them mopped on some lacquer thinner. This pulled the grail a bit, then block sanded everything. I brushed on a coat of SIG Stix-It around the nose, wing leading edge, wing roots at the fuselage, and anywhere else I thought might be a problem. I had NO problem putting on fresh orange monokote. I put the engine and such back on, and it was my old friend again! This was several years ago, and I have no ides what time frame to look for in previous threads, but it has come up several times before. There are no new problems, just new people have the same old ones! The answers are all here some where!
Type at you later,
Dan McEntee
Topic: K 2 R subistute (Read 970 times)