John Miller ??? Pathfinder Twin article in FM

[Allan Perret]

You mentioned using most of the same parts (wing included) from the RSM Pathfinder LE kit. 
The LE has a tapered wing and the Twin is constant cord.
The LE is full fuse and Twin is profile.
How can they share most of the parts

[dennis lipsett]

You mentioned using most of the same parts (wing included) from the RSM Pathfinder LE kit. 
The LE has a tapered wing and the Twin is constant cord.
The LE is full fuse and Twin is profile.
How can they share most of the parts

Indeed, I read that also.
Dennis

[Gordan Delaney]

The article is wrong. It should have said Wing kit from Brodak profile 40.Plus the fuse is 1inch shorter than the single engine pathfinder
when using the 15teens. The Pathfinder L.E has a tapered wing and differant airfoil.
Hope this helps. Sorry I did not get to see  it before it went too the press.
Gordy

[John Miller]

The reference to the L.E. was inserted by the editors. I hope you all don't think I would be so out of it to make a mistake like that.

In defense of the Editor, we got cut off on the phone where he had asked me specifically which kit parts could be used from. He went with the kit he was familiar with, the L.E. which was the last version they published. I followed up with an e-mail the next day, but he'd already made the refference and sent it off to be published.

I'm sorry for the confusion. It was totally inadvertant, and I've sent an e-mail to the editor suggesting that a correction be included in next months edition, as well a including the correct information with each set of plans ordered.
 

[john e. holliday]

Maybe they will have a correction in the next issue.  Now is there going to be a kit in the future?

[John Miller]

Most likely on both questions.

[Dennis Leonhardi]

John and Gordy, congrats on the nice design and publication!  I have another question on the article.

It states that you, John, apply Monokote over silkspan.  Do you put any finish at all on the silkspan first, and do you use anything (such as Balsarite) to improve adhesion?  Please elaborate ...

Thanks!


Dennis
 

[John Miller]

First, Norm Whittle who lurks and sometimes posts on this forum, is the master at this technique. I'm still trying to get my kote finishes as nice as his almost flawless jobs.

I apply the silkspan with dope, in the normal manner. After it's dry. I use a couple of thinned, (50-50 or less) coats of dope. I don't want the silkspan sealed, just taughtened up a bit.

I make full sized patterrns of my trim design, leaving about a 1/8" overlap, and starting from the back, I'll use normal techniques to first tack, shrink, and iron down the edges. I believe that once tacked into place, it seems to work good using an iron, and a soft cotton glove, to shrink, then wipe with the glove to attach the kote to the silspan while still hot.

Using the silkspan as an under coat allows lots of advantages when applying the trim. Starting from the back, places the laps facing the rear, which helps avoid fuel residue creaping under the edges.

There's an old post I made years ago outlining my build of my Legacy, where in I went into more detail on this method.
It should still be in the archives.

Best wishess, John

[Dennis Leonhardi]

Thanks John!

Dennis
 

First, Norm Whittle who lurks and sometimes posts on this forum, is the master at this technique. I'm still trying to get my kote finishes as nice as his almost flawless jobs.

I apply the silkspan with dope, in the normal manner. After it's dry. I use a couple of thinned, (50-50 or less) coats of dope. I don't want the silkspan sealed, just taughtened up a bit.

I make full sized patterrns of my trim design, leaving about a 1/8" overlap, and starting from the back, I'll use normal techniques to first tack, shrink, and iron down the edges. I believe that once tacked into place, it seems to work good using an iron, and a soft cotton glove, to shrink, then wipe with the glove to attach the kote to the silspan while still hot.

Using the silkspan as an under coat allows lots of advantages when applying the trim. Starting from the back, places the laps facing the rear, which helps avoid fuel residue creaping under the edges.

There's an old post I made years ago outlining my build of my Legacy, where in I went into more detail on this method.
It should still be in the archives.

Best wishess, John

[Allan Perret]

There's an old post I made years ago outlining my build of my Legacy, where in I went into more detail on this method.
It should still be in the archives.
Best wishess, John

Tried searching for this but could not find it

[Serge_Krauss]

I think you'll find John's technique near the end of this epic contribution:

http://www.clstunt.com/htdocs/dc/dcboard.php?az=show_topic&forum=103&topic_id=74286&mesg_id=74286&listing_type=search

SK

[Ward Van Duzer]

Excellent! Thx Serge...


W. 

[Tom Niebuhr]

John and Gordon,
The Twin Pathfinder looks real good. Great article.

John,

What's the recent status on the German twin?