Is this a Nobler?

[Mike Morrow]

Hello,
I'm pretty new at control line. A guy in my RC club saw I was flying C/L now and asked if I was interested in a partially completed plane he had. He said he thought it was a Smoothie. When I saw it and he only wanted $10 for it I said sure why not? After poking around on the internet I think its a Nobler; fiberglass wing tips, lower cowl and upper fuselage. I'd like to finish it over the winter and hopefully fly it next year. Any suggestions on what I could use for adjustable leadouts in the fiberglass wingtip? Thanks.

Mike

[EddyR]

 Yes    1952 or 1957 kit   Get rid of the fiberglass and use balsa . Plans are available free on Google. That fiberglass on the nose top is ugly,use a Balsa block
Ed

[Brett Buck]

Hello,
I'm pretty new at control line. A guy in my RC club saw I was flying C/L now and asked if I was interested in a partially completed plane he had. He said he thought it was a Smoothie. When I saw it and he only wanted $10 for it I said sure why not? After poking around on the internet I think its a Nobler; fiberglass wing tips, lower cowl and upper fuselage. I'd like to finish it over the winter and hopefully fly it next year. Any suggestions on what I could use for adjustable leadouts in the fiberglass wingtip? Thanks.

    It looks like a slightly-modifed Green Box Nobler to me, with an egregiously-shaped nose and cowl.

     For my money I would strip off the fiberglass parts, rebuild them in balsa per the plans. Just on the topic of the leadout guide, it already seems to have slots, might want to look inside and see if there is an adjustable guide on the last rib already.

     But before you do anything, *pull test* the airplane to about 40 lbs to see if the controls pull out, and then carefully inspect the controls for smooth movement, correct control throws, and slop. Also, inspect the wing for warps, and make sure the general alignment of the airplane is correct.

    It looks as rough as a cob from the pictures, it would be a shame to spend time fixing a few things and then find a fatal built-in problem. Of course, anything can be fixed, it's just a matter of how hard it is.

     Brett

     

[Tim Wescott]

When you take Brett's suggestion to pull test and test the controls, if you can you should test the controls under load and without.  It'll take a buddy to do the under load part.

If you're liable to crash the thing soon anyway, consider just covering it with Ultracoat or Monocoat or whatever-coat and go fly, warts and all.  It's way too far along in the construction process to be eligible for any appearance points, so the only thing dinged by a nasty-looking airplane will be your pride.

I would join up the leadout slots in the wingtip, and make sure your slider(s) go the full range.

[M Spencer]

Get rid of the fiberglass and use balsa . Plans are available free on Google. That fiberglass on the nose top is ugly,use a Balsa block

I think the F/Glass looks pretty trick . And probly wont come off easy . 

A coat of paint ( and a bit of filler ) cover a multitude of sins , anyway . 

Theres the multi hole ' Fancher ' ? leadout slots , with Sig Ferrules on the leadout wires .

Looks to me , at a glance , that the builder had a few clues  and cant have been to shabby , what with the trick fibreglass parts m'all .
Like the styling .

As they say . See the Controls are set uo good . Flaps should have ZERO slack with leadouts held securely . Elevator T E may have 3/16 inch
beneficially to flight .
Should be some tipweight somewhere too .

WHAT DOES IT WEIGH .
Lets see inside the engine bay  , please .

[M Spencer]

Second from the Top on the Right , there . Illustratesthe guide . Sufficent will suffice , excess is to be avoided . Weight conciously .

[Brett Buck]

Second from the Top on the Right , there . Illustratesthe guide . Sufficent will suffice , excess is to be avoided . Weight conciously .

 I think Ted would hasten to add that he got that from some guy with a red Nobler.

       Brett

[BillP]

Some glues get brittle with old age so you may want to consider hitting the joints with ca. I'd do it before a pull test.

[Mike Morrow]

I appreciate everyone’s responses.

No adjustable lead outs in the rib. The forward one is buried in the D-tube/fiberglass wing tip.

It weighs 27 oz.  Not sure if that’s good or bad.

After looking it over pretty good I think I’m gonna pass on making it airworthy. The elevator is binding because the hinges are glued and pinned in crooked. The glue the guy used is rock hard and is everywhere.

I wanted to give Polyspan a try. This might be a good one to practice on.

As much as I like building I’m not going to invest a lot of winter build time on it. I’m not retired… yet.   

Thanks again,
Mike

[Ken Culbertson]

I appreciate everyone’s responses.

No adjustable lead outs in the rib. The forward one is buried in the D-tube/fiberglass wing tip.

It weighs 27 oz.  Not sure if that’s good or bad.

After looking it over pretty good I think I’m gonna pass on making it airworthy. The elevator is binding because the hinges are glued and pinned in crooked. The glue the guy used is rock hard and is everywhere.

I wanted to give Polyspan a try. This might be a good one to practice on.

As much as I like building I’m not going to invest a lot of winter build time on it. I’m not retired… yet.   

Thanks again,
Mike

27oz w/0 the motor/tank and finish is a "Pig in Waiting"  The Fiberglass has to go.  Not so much for the glass as the shape.  Looks like somebody was trying to duplicate a late "Gieseke Nobler" and forgot to do the tail.  Hinges can be replaced.  Saw them off and put a couple of Robart's in the un-sawed off places. 

Better yet, put it on EBay

Ken