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General control line discussion => Open Forum => Topic started by: Wynn Robins on April 06, 2009, 07:40:49 PM
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Building the new Brodak spitfire, this is the first time I have built a wing in this configuration on the trailing edge - see the spit picture. Is there any advantage to build it this way over the vector TE as per the vector picture?
the other thing is, how do you sand the correct taper into the TE stock without damaging the ribs???
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The Vector setup looks like it might be a bit lighter . . .
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Someone just commented about sanding. I don't remember who or even which forum, but apply GOOD masking tape to the ribs above the sanding line. That way you work into the tape, not the balsa. Sorry I can't give credit to the person with the good idea.
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well thats one of my favorite tricks,, I think I may have said it once or twice,, not that it matters it isnt my idea, I stole it,,
as for an advantage, there are two dramatic advantages to sheeting OVER the trailing edge strip. the first is that you dont have a glue seam to try to hide when you are finishing.
the other more important advantage is, the trailing edge is Locked into place by the sheeting and is in my opinion a much stronger setup. This is the way Pat taught me to do it and every plane of mine has it that way. to sand it down to the correct angle is in fact quite simple. I use two inch tape,, automotive 3M painting tape from a body shop supply. Yes it IS expensive,, but not any more expensive than that pretty balsa wood you are protecting. its a tool, and good tools make good models, plane and simple,,,
I lay a strip of 2 inch tape acros the ribs after the trailing edge strip is in place, then you can sand aggresivly with a long sanding block until you are down to the tape. peal the tape, and sand with fine paper to remove the last bit of the trailing edge down to the ribs. If you tend to be a bit heavy handed or unsure, place another strip of tape an inch or so up from the trailing edge across the ribs, (leaving the exposed section narrower than the sanding block is) then you can concentrate on working the last bit down without sanding grooves in the ribs on the other edge of the block.
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Hey Mark, we don't steal ideas. We just borrow them and don't return them. I have been doing it ever since I started this crazy hobby. Have fun, DOC Holliday
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I have used my table saw to cut the bevel into a trailing edge out of some ~1/4" sheet balsa. One trick is keeping the cut piece away from the back side of the blade. The other trick is getting it the right thickness.
Another way is to glue a sharp exacto blade onto a beveled piece of pine block. Then use a straight edge to cut the strip.