Iron On Coverings?

[Joe Messinger]

Hello,

Iron on covering may be a sore spot with some guys, but I don't have the place, time or knowledge to do a full blown paint job on the planes I build and fly.  So, I've been using plastic covering.  Besides, considering my flying ability, a great paint job on my planes would be like putting mag wheels on a farm tractor. . .

Would anyone care to suggest a plastic covering they like best?  I've tried several brands and have discovered good and not so good characteristics with each.  Thought, maybe, some input from others would be helpful.

I haven't tried any "Ultracoat" as yet because I can't find  anyone that offers it.  I checked Tower and Brodak and they don't sell it.  Where can I find it?

Thanks,

Joe

[Warren Leadbeatter]

Hi Joe,

I'm an iron on man myself.  I do use tissue on free flight models and some control line but time contraints and impatience cause me to use films and also I like the finished look, durability and strength gained by using film.  I can throw a few models in the back of the car without worrying about breaking the tissue (or silkspan).

For larger models, I really like the Super Monokote, because I have found it doesn't go slack in the sun - especially white.  But it is heavy. 

For general use I like Solarfim, because it sticks really well and is easy to work with and is lighter than regular monokote. However I do use regular monokote too as I usually buy by colour availablity reather than film type.

For light models (including 1/2A and some free flight) I use the Coverite 21st Century Microlite film, at 0.6 grams / sq metre it's great, irons on beautifly, stretches, and shrinks really well.  It is a bit fragile though and punctures easily. It's primarily designed for Park Flyers.

I avoid everything else with the exception of Coverite Coverlite tissue, but this is not really iron on, it is heat shrink tissue. Not as light as Microlite, but much stronger and more durable.

For trim I like to use the monokote trim sheets as they stick they the preverbial and are easy to cut and apply.

I hope this helps you in your quest.

Cheers

[Leester]

Joe: Ultrcote is a Hangar 9 product go to www.horizonhobby.com

[Bill Little]

I haven't used any iron ons for quite some time, but a real good friend of mine uses Coverite all the time!  He has absolutely stunning finishes using spray can paint over it (Lustercoat).  You cannot tell it isn't a "dope and tissue" job!

Walter Umland has some of the prettiest monocoat finshes I have ever seen.  Hopefully he will chime in on this topic.

Bill <><

[Wynn Robins]

SIG aerokote is the best covering I have used......seems to just go down nice....does not require high temps., and has some pretty neat colours......

[Joe Messinger]

I've tried Tower Kote and found it to be rather delicate.  It tears pretty easily when it's being stretched around contours and wing tips.   It's about half the price of the premium stuff and about half as tough, in my opinion.

Joe

[posthole_digger]

I found that Towerkote will delaminate if exposed to fuel.

I like Ultrakote.

Paul

[Dennis Moritz]

I've used lots of Super Monokote exclusively on wings. All in all great stuff. Can be applied at a moderate temperature then blasted at high temp to cure the wrinks. Do the final blast high heat watching for warps. Even out shrinkage on top of wing and bottom of wing. Not super critical, but problems can happen sometimes, problems fixed easy enough. After final high heat shrink, monokote keeps it's shape pretty well. Great for sport planes and stunt ships in the lesseer PAMPA classes. In expert, helps to look good and show craftsmanship using silkspan or tissue on open bays.

[john e. holliday]

Monokote is the covering I recommend.  It takes practice and sometime a little heat to get it right.  I have used almost every kind of covering available with the exception of Sig.  As I stated, no matter what you use it takes practice and patience.  DOC Holliday

[Mike Spiess]

I had a Bansee that I threw together this spring and used it all summer but the covering keep coming lose. It had a combination of Oracover and a little Monocote. Well the Oracover was the culprit when I decided to pull it all off the Oracover almost fell off but I couldn't get the Monocoat to budge. Also learned Oracover absolutely will not stick to Monocote.

[Glen Wearden]

Just got through reading Sig's blurb on their Aerokote, and it looks like a good buy.  For one thing, you get more material than monokote; their width is 31 and change " wide and 2 meters long.  Monokote is 26" X 72".  The price for the opaques is $12.99 a roll from either Sig or Tower.  Not bad.  Glen

[builditright]

I haven't used any iron ons for quite some time, but a real good friend of mine uses Coverite all the time!  He has absolutely stunning finishes using spray can paint over it (Lustercoat).  You cannot tell it isn't a "dope and tissue" job!

Walter Umland has some of the prettiest monocoat finshes I have ever seen.  Hopefully he will chime in on this topic.

Bill <><

Thanks Bill for the kudos.
Now I don't want to hijak this thread with a bunch of pictures so to see some of my Monokote work check out this link>>  http://www.builtrightflyright.com/picturesforposting/misc/pics1.htm
all but one model was done with Monokote. 
I'm Not saying it's the best for everyone else I just simply have had the best results on all my applications. I think it's Great stuff and I wouldn't use anything else.
 

[Joe Messinger]

Hello,

Thanks to everyone who offered their advice and preferences regarding iron on coverings.  All are helpful and appreciated.

 I was beginning to think I was the only one using plastic as most posts about finishing address painting methods.

I hope to build and paint a plane one of these days but for right now,  I'm better off covering my stuff  with something that isn't too expensive and work intensive.

I don't imagine I'll ever get involved in any serious competition  but I do take pride in my work and enjoy building and flying  c/l planes.  If I can ever figure out how to do it,  I'll try posting some photos of the planes I've built.  Maybe someone  would like to see them.  I believe I am getting better at it.  At least, I hope so.

Regards to all,

Joe

[Richard Grogan]

Show us your Planes!!

[Leester]

Posting pictures here is a snap. I scan my photos on my printer and send them to "My Pictures" When you click on the Additional Options go to Browse and click, it takes me to "My Pictures" then I just pick a photo click on it then click on open and it goes to the ATTACH choose another one same proceedure then click on POST and it's done.

[Joe Messinger]

Lee,

Thanks.  I'll give the photo posting a try soon.  I do have a digital camera so if I can figure out how to get the picture from camera to computer that would eliminate the scanning process.  I think. . .

Joe

[bob branch]

I was suprised not one commented on Ultracoat other than to say you have to get it from Horizon. Most of the rc guys in our club use nothing else. I have tried all of them on my RC work and find Ultracoat is without peer. It is sealed down at low temp and then heat is raised to shrink. It stays down very well. It does not off gass like Monocoat and so you do not get bubbles on sheeted surfaces like with monocoat. That seems to go on with Monocoat for ever. Also You can iron another color over it if you have to rather than cutting the patterns and bonding them before applying to the plane. I have a 3D profile I built last winter and which has been my goto rc plane most of the summer, probably at least 75 flights on it if not more with 6 or 7 colors on top of each other (flames) and no bubbles, no seperations, no loss of a single piece. The really nice thing about ultra coat is it seems to continue to shrink forever. If you still have a wrinkle, just keep heating it and it is eventually going to go away. I have not found that with any other coating and  I find Sig's coating does not do this at all.

just my experiences. Yours may differ.

bob branch

[Russell Shaffer]

Anyone tried the Brodak film?