stunthanger.com
General control line discussion => Open Forum => Topic started by: Bootlegger on December 19, 2015, 09:52:53 AM
-
Mornin Guy's,
I am not versed in using iron on coverings, and want to put some S L C on a model that I covered with poly span, simular to what Larry Renger did on a 1/2a model sometime back.
What kind of suggestions can y'all give me doing this??
Thanks...
-
Don't dope the polyspan where the open bays are.
MM
-
And, iron the SLC firmly to the polyspan to make a composite covering.
-
Larry, what degree of heat are u setting the iron to when you do this?
Thank you
Mike
-
I use a little thermometer that you drop onto the iron's surface. About 190 deg for tacking down and 225 deg for shrink and bonding.
-
I use a little thermometer that you drop onto the iron's surface. About 190 deg for tacking down and 225 deg for shrink and bonding.
I have one of those...thank you for the answer.
Mike
-
Ultra coat
-
Since we're on the subject. Ok, from what I understand Polyspan is good on it's own if you fuel proof it with dope or something. SLC on it's own is too thin for an open bay stunt wing so, I understand why you need polyspan under it to give more strength but, why do you need the SLC at all? If you fuel proof it with SLC you only need enough dope to stick the polyspan to the frame and you don't want to fill it so the SLC can gas off when covering. So how do you get your paint scheme, you paint the SLC? If you're going to paint it anyway why do you need the SLC so you can use less paint and filler?
MM
-
Walter, Larry knows a lot more about this procedure than me but I will take a shot at answering and hopefully Larry will come back on this. I have used SLC by itself on open bay wings. They were smaller .15 Size models and it was plenty strong. I think the primary reason to bond the SLC over the Polyspan is for strength and SLC does give a smooth surface to paint without having to use multiple coats of dope to fill the Polyspan. You can scuff the surface of the SLC if you wish before you paint it if you wish.
Larry may have other reasons to do it this way and maybe he will elaborate on it a little more. M know he had a thread on this a few months back and gave a really good tutorial on it.
Mike
-
Ultra coat
Jim I have just about gone go Ultracoat exclusively and apply it mostly with an iron. I use the heat gun around the tips some where I need to pull and stretch it. I have tried a lot of different brands and usually settle on Ultracote. The other one I like a lit is Solartex but it is pricey..
Mike
-
So far as I know, you get a quicker, slicker, lighter finish with SLC over Polyspan than dope and filler. The combination is actually tougher than Polyspan or SLC alone. Also, if you use ModPoge to stick down the Polyspan, there is not a dope fume problem! ;D
I have just started using ModPoge, and so far, so good! I thin it with water and do 3 coats with 400 grit sanding between. Let it dry and iron on your covering. Not quite as good adhesion as Balsarite, but way less hassle with no odor and water cleanup.
-
Is SLC the same as ultracote lite clear? They're both thin polyester film.
Thanks,
MM
-
I have just started using ModPoge, and so far, so good! I thin it with water and do 3 coats with 400 grit sanding between. Let it dry and iron on your covering. Not quite as good adhesion as Balsarite, but way less hassle with no odor and water cleanup.
There seem to be about a bazillion different ModPoges. Which one are you using?
-
The brand seems to be "Plaid". I am using the Matte not Gloss ( cs15139 ). I bought it at Michael's craft store, though I have been told it is available at Home Depot. I suspect that most craft stores have it.
I did a Baby Ringmaster wing with Coverlite and the fuselage for a full size Ringmaster with carbon veil, and have only used about 1 Ounce of the stuff so far. #^
-
I learn something everyday on here. I never heard of ModPoge...
Mike
-
Thanks for info Larry. Will try that with the new covering I am working with on the next plane.
-
I haven't Monokoted anything in awhile and have sort of switched over to silkspan and dope
but in the past when I did iron on my coverings I only used Monokote. I tried Ultrakote once
but I really didn't like it as much as I did/do Monokote.
(http://www.builtrightflyright.com/MiscHelpPgs/mybuildspics/rc/extraish.jpg)
(http://www.builtrightflyright.com/MiscHelpPgs/mybuildspics/rc/delta.jpg)
(http://www.builtrightflyright.com/MiscHelpPgs/mybuildspics/uc/B-25.jpg)
(http://www.builtrightflyright.com/MiscHelpPgs/mybuildspics/uc/chipmonk.jpg)
(http://www.builtrightflyright.com/MiscHelpPgs/mybuildspics/uc/oreintal.jpg)
(http://www.builtrightflyright.com/MiscHelpPgs/mybuildspics/uc/misty.jpg)
to see a few more go to: http://www.builtrightflyright.com/MiscHelpPgs/mybuilds.htm (http://www.builtrightflyright.com/MiscHelpPgs/mybuilds.htm)
-
Walter,
You didn't say if these models were painted or if you used iron on, but they all sure look really good! H^^
I'm sure you still have what it takes.
The Oriental is really a great looking model! H^^
Charles
-
Here are photos of a Sky Sport covered with light weight Polyspan and Park Flyer type covering over it. ;D
-
Walter:
I also race Riggers and the 2 pics of the Water Spiders bring back fond memories. #^ #^
Carl
-
Here are photos of a Sky Sport covered with light weight Polyspan and Park Flyer type covering over it. ;D
Hi Charles,
They are all done with Monokote.
Thank you
-
Walter:
I also race Riggers and the 2 pics of the Water Spiders bring back fond memories. #^ #^
Carl
Hi Carl,
The Spyder boat you speak of is an actual Spyder Outrigger. It is an all wood boat and it was
my first outrigger hydro. I had a K&B 82 inboard, Candy apple dark blue with a metallic red base.
The only modification was the cowl that came with the kit was glass and looked like a bubble, so
I made the cowl/top that is on there in the photo. Thanks for noticing. It brings back fond memories
with my Dad & I