stunthanger.com
General control line discussion => Open Forum => Topic started by: Paul Taylor on December 02, 2010, 05:15:41 PM
-
So if you had to take a S.W.A.G. at this tank, would you say it was uni-flow?
I know the only real way is to take the back off but I do not have a good way to get it back on. HB~>
-
should not be to hard to figure out without surgery actually
just sit it with the tubes up ( on its back end) fill through what you figure is the pickup tube, with the overflow blocked ( assuming its the one underneath)
IF it takes very little to get fluid out of the other tube, then its uniflow, if you have to fill the thing mostly all the way, then its standard vent
for assurance, fill through the OTHER tube and observe the first tube,,
-
Paul,
Yup, it appears to be a Brodak uniflow oval, or one that strongly resembles it. The pickup tube
is more than likely the most outboard tube or the two bent forward. The Brodak catalog shows
which tube is which.
Best regards,
Richard Ferrell
-
The interior should look something like this...
-
Thanks guys!!!
I will test it out Mark.
Stay tuned....
-
Paul,
You get get the back off with an old frying pan. Put pan on the stove- med high heat - let it get to temp and place the tank rear cap down. A hot glove to grap it with and a flat screwrive to help hold the cap down and when the solder melts you just pop the end cap off.
Clean / inspect / clean outside, when ready to put cap back on, heat up th pan. have some solder ready, place the end cap on the tank, put it in the pan and pres down so it makes good contact.
Wait a minute and touch the solder to the edge of the end cap, if it melts and flows in a few seconds continue around the edge, if it blobs, let the tank heat a bit more and try again. If the solder in the body seam melts and flows out, give that one a bit of solder too.
Pressure check when done, if it leaks - try again, or get a small propane / butane torch and use that for more localized heat.
-
Keep the solder away from your eggs though. n1 ;D