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General control line discussion => Open Forum => Topic started by: bob branch on February 21, 2009, 07:38:36 PM
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I have printed decals on transparent decal paper (adhesive paper, not water slide). The model is painted with Brodak butyrate dope. How do I go about fuel proofing the decal. I would like to shoot brodak butyrate clear over it and be able to rub out the model as the final finish step. How many layer of clear will I need to have over the decal to do this safely?
Thanks,
bob branch
10029
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Bob - I have been using inkjet decals for years. After printing, I let them sit overnight on a flat surface. Then, with an airbrush, I blow on about five light coats of clear, letting it dry for at least a half hour between coats.
My only complaint is that some of mine have faded a bit after a few years. The red ink seems to be the worse. My printer is HP.
Bob Z.
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You can spray the decals with Krylon clear. There is a version of Krylon clear with UV protection which is what I use. It is not fuel proof, so after application to the airplane, I spray it with clear Lusterkote. I have a piece of low tack shelf paper which I cut out to just a little larger than the decal so the Lusterkote spray is just over the decal.
Steve
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Gentlemen, thank you for your quick replies.
Bob: I assume you shoot thinned dope on the decals? about 50%?
Steve: Can butyrate dope be applied over teh krylon clear and lusterkote?
bob branch
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I recently had an interesting experience with decals. I used Testors white water-slide decal paper and a Lexmark printer. Before I slid the decals off, I gave them several toots of butyrate dope. So far, so good. Then I wet them and slid them onto the airplane. That worked fine, too. They flattened right out. Subsequent coats of dope caused the decals to crinkle. Each time I gave them a toot, they'd crinkle up. They'd flatten some when they dried. I have 10 coats or so on them now. They look kinda cracked, which adds to the vintage appearance, I guess.
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Howard...did you find a NV assy for that McCoy .09? :o Steve
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No.
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I've made up water slide decals for 3 or 4 planes now. I found that when I followed the Testor's instructions that say to set the paper setting to plain paper, that the graphics came out with visible cracks in the ink. After setting the paper to premium photo paper, the cracks went away. Once printed, I wait a while and dust on a couple coats of Sig Lite Coat with the airbrush. After a few dusted coats, I start laying the coats on wet. After many wet coats, I let them dry a bit before cutting out and applying to the plane. To get the dope through my airbrush it's thinned a bunch, at least 50-50. I'm probably laying on about 10-15 coats of dope leaving just enough time between coats for them to dry to the touch. Usually at that point in the finishing process, I'm moving pretty fast and these are just fun planes, so more drying time might be advisable on a serious project. But the process doesn't seem to be too critical. I spend a lot more time laying out my graphics in Photoshop, printing test sheets on plain paper, and trying to feed the half sheets of decal paper through my printer, then I spend applying clear coats or the decals to the plane.
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I just brush 2 or 3 coats of Sig clear on mine after the ink has set for several hours. Then after they are applied to the plane, I brush on several more coats. No problem with jet ink as it is impervious to dope. The only thing I do not like is that they do not cover dark colors very well as the ink is so thin that the color under the decal will show through.
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Bob - yes, I thin the dope to where it will spray without spattering, usually around 50%.
I like Ty's suggestion. Use the Krylon for UV protection then the dope for fuel proofing.
Makes a lot of sense.
Bob Z.
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also....some of the free flight rubber boys use an ink called Durabright (Durabrite?) for making decals. They say the colour is more intense and does not run. I am not sure where they get it, or what printers use it though. I could go find out if anyones interested.
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I use a couple of light coats of MINWAX fast drying polyeurithane on the decal before applying it, and then after applying decal just spray dope right over it.
Phil
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I just spray clear Lustercoat on the printed decal directly. One very light coat followed a few minutes later with a heavier coat to give it a gloss. All done, and no overcoat required on the plane. I did this on my new Sky Sport, and am very happy with the result. In applying the decal, I wet the wing with water dosed with a couple of drops of dish detergent to assure a clean surface and give myself a better opportunity to position the decal. After application I carefully squeegy out as much water as possible with a brush or paper towel (be very gentle!)
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I've used both the sticky back and the water soluble decal paper. I let the ink dry for a couple of hours after printing then mist a few light coats of Lusterkote on the page. After that coat dries, I cut out the decal and apply. I've used both luck of stick and the water method to position them. I do squeegee down with the edge of a playing card to get rid of bubbles. Then I again put on a couple of coats of Lusterkote clear. Works OK for me. Lustercote does take a minimum of 3 days drying time to have even some resemblance to fuel resistance.