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Author Topic: How often do you change glow plugs?  (Read 2828 times)

Online Dennis Toth

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How often do you change glow plugs?
« on: September 15, 2017, 06:12:54 AM »
One of the weak points of glow engines is the glow plug itself. It is the one thing that can ruin a great stunt ship in an instant. I was wondering how often contest fliers change plugs? I have flown plugs for a few years and they seem ok, no sag when removing the battery and good engine runs. I have also had times when all seemed great and then as soon as I flipped inverted - silence! Luckily, I haven't had one quit like that in an overhead eight or at the top of the wingover.

So the question for the group is what signs other than RPM sag when removing the battery indicate the plug is on its way out? Should we just replace the plug once a year before contest season? Is there a maintenance we can do to keep a plug in useful condition longer (i.e. giving it a voltage shot at say 1.7V from the power panel every few months)?

Best,    DennisT

Offline Brett Buck

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Re: How often do you change glow plugs?
« Reply #1 on: September 15, 2017, 10:03:51 AM »
One of the weak points of glow engines is the glow plug itself. It is the one thing that can ruin a great stunt ship in an instant. I was wondering how often contest fliers change plugs? I have flown plugs for a few years and they seem ok, no sag when removing the battery and good engine runs. I have also had times when all seemed great and then as soon as I flipped inverted - silence! Luckily, I haven't had one quit like that in an overhead eight or at the top of the wingover.

So the question for the group is what signs other than RPM sag when removing the battery indicate the plug is on its way out? Should we just replace the plug once a year before contest season? Is there a maintenance we can do to keep a plug in useful condition longer (i.e. giving it a voltage shot at say 1.7V from the power panel every few months)?

   Depends on fuel. If you use SIG or any armor-all or other silicone in your fuel, you can get down to as little as 20 flights before the taters set it. It is generally a much bigger problem with larger engines. We never noticed any consequential problems until we got to the 61, although you could occasionally see something. Everything I see tells me that at least inside the engine, they run much hotter. We also never routinely melted pipes until we got to the 61, despite the fact that we run them much richer than say, a 40VF.

     It also varies a lot from individual engine to individual engine. The first PA61 I used was Bill Fitzgerald's, and it would clearly lose power in about 15 flights, and then start having real problems just running and starting at about 25-30. First time I changed the plug, it had a tater about the size of the cavity in which the element sits. It was always in trouble when I started running it and I couldn't see why everybody thought it was so great, I was having all sorts of problems just getting it to fly the same airplane I was using with a 40VF. Changed the plug and the first flight darn near pulled my arm out of the socket.   A later example of the same engine configured exactly the same way would get through about 50-60 flights with no real problem and only a small tater. 

    For the few times I ran the RO-Jett on SIG, it seemed to be doing about the same, and the plug was tatering up after about 20 flights, although I couldn't feel the power difference yet. Other people tell me they get the same sort of variation from engine to engine, and that the 67LS seems to be worse than the 61. I don't know about the PA75, we have long since stopped running SIG, so I don't know if David has even tried it. My guess is it would be even worse based on the heat theory, but it's so powerful that no on is running it at more than about 20% of capability, so it can degenerate for a while and still be plenty good enough.

     The solution, which seems so simple that I am surprised people still resist it, is to use Powermaster. I have never gotten anything like a tater, only a light frosting and maybe a black discoloration of the element right near the weld  - which I expect is carbon/varnish that probably appears after the flight due to heat soakback - see Lauri Malila's solution!  - using Powermaster of any variety.   I have probably a few hundred flights on individual glow plugs and usually change it once a year out of habit to  avoid the problem David had at the 96 NATs. Usually second flight on Thursday at the NATs or immediately after so I can at least run a flight or two before Top 20 day.

   BTW, there was a theory floating around out there that the "randy goop", AKA Aero-1 additive, was causing this. But I have seen absolutely *no* evidence of this, and I was looking for it. I don't regularly use it any more, but I never had any detectable difference in the tatering whether or not it had Aero-1. It was absolutely traceable to SIG fuel and seemingly associated with Armor-All, but there was no association with Aero-1 at all. I think most of the people with that theory were also running it in - wait for it, SIG - and jumped to a wrong conclusion.

   BTW, I am not attempting to "trash" SIG, and I used it for years. Aside from the time of the 1995 NATS (where they clearly had a problem with a batch or two and there were mysterious clear globs of something floating around in it - which recombined if you added about 1/2 ounce of acetone but still ran bad), it always ran fine. But switching to Powermaster completely resolved the tatering problem for me and all the locals.

     Back when it was still happening to me, I would frequently scrape them with an Exacto knife until it was shiny, and it worked about as well. I did try burning them off with extra current but I think you would have to wipe them off since they tend to melt.

   BTW, beware new plugs, too. ALWAYS test them before trying the wingover, usually I do a few inside round loops, which is usually where it will show a problem. David does inside rounds followed by outside squares, but if it is going to be a problem it's almost always on inside turns. Same thing when you switch fuel. Also, the first run or few minutes may be much different than the rest, usually faster with the same needle, which goes away about halfway through the flight. Go easy on tweaking it slower on the first flight, because it may slow down later.

      Brett

Online Dennis Toth

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Re: How often do you change glow plugs?
« Reply #2 on: September 15, 2017, 11:09:56 AM »
Brett,
Thanks for the informitive reply. Looking at the fuel aspect it seems the culprit could be the synthetic oil part of the SIG 50/50 mix vs the oil in the Powermaster. Maybe someone that knows about these oils could comment. Since the synthetic has a tendency to burn that might cause the issue in the big block motors.

I have not seen any issue with the Sig plus Armor-All in the sub 40 motors, for that matter didn't see any taters in these. Maybe I will look with a magnifying glass and strong light to see what the plugs look like. Could be that there is something that coats the element smoothly and could lead to the sudden cut off (I still have the plug in the OS20FS that did that, I pull the motor and coverted that Stuka to electric after that).

Seems that having a supply of tested good plugs ready to go and changing out at least at the begining of contest season for the sub 40 motors is a good practice.

Best,     DennisT

Offline Brett Buck

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Re: How often do you change glow plugs?
« Reply #3 on: September 15, 2017, 03:20:19 PM »
Brett,
Thanks for the informitive reply. Looking at the fuel aspect it seems the culprit could be the synthetic oil part of the SIG 50/50 mix vs the oil in the Powermaster. Maybe someone that knows about these oils could comment. Since the synthetic has a tendency to burn that might cause the issue in the big block motors.

    That's closer to the solution than it is the problem. The 50/50 blend seems to build taters much more slowly than straight SIG Champion, at least for the limited experience I am aware of.

Quote
I have not seen any issue with the Sig plus Armor-All in the sub 40 motors, for that matter didn't see any taters in these. Maybe I will look with a magnifying glass and strong light to see what the plugs look like. Could be that there is something that coats the element smoothly and could lead to the sudden cut off (I still have the plug in the OS20FS that did that, I pull the motor and coverted that Stuka to electric after that).

Seems that having a supply of tested good plugs ready to go and changing out at least at the begining of contest season for the sub 40 motors is a good practice.

    I have tracked the "shut off like you flipped a switch" issue to fuel rather than plug, at least for 2-strokes. I thought it was the plug when I started, too, but it didn't seem to be, at least in any of the cases I have seen.

   I have never seen much if any problem with the smaller engines and taters, and aside from experiments, I haven't yet had one fail. One of my 20FPs still has the factory plug, as I recall, or at least there is only one plug that has ever been in it, and that's the one I ran on gasoline and heated Wesson oil, with no apparent ill effects. If it's not the original, it is a plug I pulled out of the PA61 and scraped the taters off.

    I don't know enough about 4-stroke quirky behavior to make any good guesses as to what funny things they do.

    Brett

Offline Steve Helmick

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Re: How often do you change glow plugs?
« Reply #4 on: September 16, 2017, 11:00:25 PM »
A few times, I changed glowplugs when an engine was running funky and I didn't have time to do anything but put in a new plug, blast out the NV with a WD-40 spraycan, and put in a new fuel filter. One of the above worked. Another time, the engine ran fine pre-Winter and wouldn't fire post-Winter. A new glowplug fixed that. One time I bounced the landing bad enough to break the post off the glowplug. Yep, new glowplug fixed that one, too. Learned about that low area in the ramp at Auburn Muni on that landing...hard to see! Can't say I've used much SIG fuel, but I don't recall having a problem from the gallon or two I have burned in almost 20 years since returning to CL.  D>K Steve
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Offline RandySmith

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Re: How often do you change glow plugs?
« Reply #5 on: September 17, 2017, 11:02:48 AM »
I find that the plugs last from 30 to 100 flights with 1/2 castor fuel, doesn't matter if its  Sig  or not, the castor seems to be the problem, Sig cut 1/2 1/2  with all Synth  last  150 to 300 flights, My homemade batch of 1/2 castor mirrors this, as does the  home-made 1/4 castor 75%  synth.
The growths on the plugs  , I am convinced  is  due to the castor oil, I have search  this for many decades now, I also think the today's castor leaves behind a much quicker build up  of black carbon.  So due to this I have been using  castor fuels, with no more than 25%  castor oil-75% synth,  or as little as  2 % , of the   total,  castor oil.  I see  many hundreds of used motors in here, and the ones running castor have larger and thicker carbon deposits on the head, and top of piston, exhaust case  etc.. I change glow plugs 1 time every 2 years or so now.

Randy

Offline Brett Buck

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Re: How often do you change glow plugs?
« Reply #6 on: September 17, 2017, 07:58:16 PM »
I find that the plugs last from 30 to 100 flights with 1/2 castor fuel, doesn't matter if its  Sig  or not, the castor seems to be the problem, Sig cut 1/2 1/2  with all Synth  last  150 to 300 flights, My homemade batch of 1/2 castor mirrors this, as does the  home-made 1/4 castor 75%  synth.
The growths on the plugs  , I am convinced  is  due to the castor oil, I have search  this for many decades now, I also think the today's castor leaves behind a much quicker build up  of black carbon.  So due to this I have been using  castor fuels, with no more than 25%  castor oil-75% synth,  or as little as  2 % , of the   total,  castor oil.  I see  many hundreds of used motors in here, and the ones running castor have larger and thicker carbon deposits on the head, and top of piston, exhaust case  etc.. I change glow plugs 1 time every 2 years or so now.

         Castor definitely causes the carbon. But I am skeptical about the tater problem being due to castor per se. Maybe specific brands or something, but Powermaster GMA contained a lot more  castor than SIG Champion, and it never created taters. Powermaster Sport fuel (now called "Air") is virtually identical to SIG Champion as far as the basic mix goes, and it never causes taters although they do cause varnishing, GMA much faster than "Air, as you would expect.

   I am also not sure what our little buddy Derek is doing, but he was talking about 25 flights on a plug, too, which is about what we were getting in the worst cases with SIG.

    By the way, I have to give you credit for coming up with the 50/50 Champion/Syn-Power mix. That was a great idea and it gets rid of castor. If I couldn't get Powermaster, I would use 50/50 or even 2:1 Syn-Power to try to hold down on varnishing. And unlike Omega and Cool Power, it doesn't rust everything.

    My best guess is that the anti-foaming agent is the culprit, probably silicone. I think that was also what the clear globs floating around in the "1995 SIG Disaster NATS" fuel - silicone oil. I tried adding medium-viscosity silicone oil to a bit of fuel, and it definitely was not soluble and floated around in very familiar-looking globs. Maybe Mikey could tell us, because he took a sample of the fuel, and whatever it was, it was fixed right away. I never heard what the culprit was in that case.

    Brett

Offline RandySmith

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Re: How often do you change glow plugs?
« Reply #7 on: September 18, 2017, 01:46:54 PM »
         Castor definitely causes the carbon. But I am skeptical about the tater problem being due to castor per se. Maybe specific brands or something, but Powermaster GMA contained a lot more  castor than SIG Champion, and it never created taters. Powermaster Sport fuel (now called "Air") is virtually identical to SIG Champion as far as the basic mix goes, and it never causes taters although they do cause varnishing, GMA much faster than "Air, as you would expect.

   I am also not sure what our little buddy Derek is doing, but he was talking about 25 flights on a plug, too, which is about what we were getting in the worst cases with SIG.

    By the way, I have to give you credit for coming up with the 50/50 Champion/Syn-Power mix. That was a great idea and it gets rid of castor. If I couldn't get Powermaster, I would use 50/50 or even 2:1 Syn-Power to try to hold down on varnishing. And unlike Omega and Cool Power, it doesn't rust everything.

    My best guess is that the anti-foaming agent is the culprit, probably silicone. I think that was also what the clear globs floating around in the "1995 SIG Disaster NATS" fuel - silicone oil. I tried adding medium-viscosity silicone oil to a bit of fuel, and it definitely was not soluble and floated around in very familiar-looking globs. Maybe Mikey could tell us, because he took a sample of the fuel, and whatever it was, it was fixed right away. I never heard what the culprit was in that case.

    Brett

Hi Brett
I am sure , Its the castor,  But you may be  right that certain brands  are worse, The same thing happens when I mix fuel from scratch , and I did not use  any silicone/defoamer/AmourAll.etc.. matter of fact  I never use Amour all or anything except Aero -1  which does not have any tater effect! , I keep raw ingredients so I can compare it against other  commercial made fuels.  I use pure  nitro, Bakers AA  castor, or I have used Morgan castor, either  Dow synth oil, or Techniplate all synth.  The  SIG is as bad is as bad as it gets, Derek was using  Champion which taters  badly. my mix with bakers  does  also, however maybe slightly less.
The  castor flecking problem from years ago was most likley due  to using  the  additive that  SIG sold, which flecked castor  VERY badly... flecks look like  clear slags , floating around in the fuel, and  would  stop up needle assemblies.
I have had over the decades  maybe 50 to 80 of my customers use the  lower  castor blend, (under 25%of the total oil) and  that has worked well.  I have had very good results with those using  SIG Champion, mixing it with either  SIG all synth, or  Cool Power with added oil.
I have also had a couple of customers using Power Master send their engines in that had carbon build up, and I have seen small taters growing on their plugs !
Morgan is making a C/L fuel that the claim is 22% by volume and has some castor, I do not have enough time trying to see how this fuel does with the taters problem, but is seems that all fuels are better than the  SIG Champion, so as of this, I use the  SIg Champion with ther all synth fuel to cut it down to 12.5% castor  by doing the 3/4 to 1  mix

Randy

Offline RandySmith

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Re: How often do you change glow plugs?
« Reply #8 on: September 19, 2017, 04:47:42 PM »
Maybe the castor is not de-gummed?

I only use   AA  first pressing grade castor, that is meant to be mixed to make fuel,

AAź Standard is a commercial, quality refined grade castor oil. It is
a light colored viscous liquid with a molecular weight of 928. The
principle constituent (approximately 90%) is the triglyceride (ester) of
ricinoleic acid. The combination of hydroxyl group and unsaturation
exists only in castor oil.

and yes it is supposed to be gummed and very low moisture  content

Randy


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