How do we fuel proof water slide decals?

[Phil Hawkins]

I have a few sheets of water slide decals I want to use but am out of fuel proofer like 30 years ago! I am thinking of shooting clear butyrate though an air brush, but am interested in an easier way.
What are you guys doing?
Thanks!

[Avaiojet]

I have a few sheets of water slide decals I want to use but am out of fuel proofer like 30 years ago! I am thinking of shooting clear butyrate though an air brush, but am interested in an easier way.
What are you guys doing?
Thanks!

30 years old! You don't want to ruin them. Can you put up a photo.

Charles

[kevin king]

I think he meant the fuel proofer is 30 years old.

[Paul Wescott]

I have a few sheets of water slide decals I want to use but am out of fuel proofer like 30 years ago! I am thinking of shooting clear butyrate though an air brush, but am interested in an easier way.
What are you guys doing?
Thanks!

Hey Phil

1) Rattle Can 2K Urethane is going to be “easier” but $16 (plus shipping) for one can, which you throw away, which is why it’s easier than airbrushing dope where you need to thin the dope and eventually clean the airbrush.  Also you MUST spray it outdoors and you SHOULD wear a good respirator cuz the stuff is real bad for your lungs.  The bright side is the stuff is incredibly fuel proof and you can completely coat 2, 3, maybe 4 airplanes, you just have to have 2/3/4 airplanes ready for clear coat at the same time.

https://everestautomotivemarket.com/paint-and-coatings/clearcoats/2k-glam-hi-gls-clearcoat-sprymx-aerosol/

2) Clear fingernail polish also works and can be brushed or airbrushed if thinned with acetone.  Not ALL brands work.  So the not-so-easy part is testing to find the right one.

3) 30 or 60 Minute epoxy is clear and very fuel proof but it’s hard to get a show-car quality finish because of the viscosity.  Do not use 5 minute, the ONLY thing that gummy rubbery junk is good for is gluing broken styrofoam back together.

4) Klass Kote Clear 2-part paint is great, absolutely fuel proof but pricey.

5) Clear shrink-film, Monokote or Ultracoat or ?

Waiting to hear what others are doing…

PW

[Craig Beswick]

I have a few sheets of water slide decals I want to use but am out of fuel proofer like 30 years ago! I am thinking of shooting clear butyrate though an air brush, but am interested in an easier way.
What are you guys doing?
Thanks!

I think Phil it depends on what you are painting the rest of the plane with.

Long story short I use auto lacquer in a spray can. So I print the decal then spray it with the auto clear coat I use, apply the decal to the model then overspray with the clear again to seal it.

[Dennis Toth]

Phil,
Craig has a good point. If you are going to clear coat with 2-part Urethane, then put them on the ship and clear coat with the rest of the ship. Just do a dust coat over them first. I have done this but using KBS Diamond Clear Coat Aerosol ( https://www.kbs-coatings.com/diamondfinish-clear-aerosol.html) over water slide printed decals. The nice thing about the KBS in the aerosol can is you can spray the decal before installing it to make handling a little easier, than do a final topcoat with the rest of the ship.

Best,   DennisT

[L0U CRANE]

Back in the day when butyrate dope was both available and affordable, I used waterslide decals fairly often.

if needed, mask and paint a white base for under the decal's marginal opacity.  Print and apply the decal with the proper care: position, squeegee and blot. Then, when dry, touch around the edges with - I think it was called Solva-Set - to reduce, practically eliminate, edge "height." Children's "watercolor art set" paint brushes work well.

I found spray can Krylon Gloss Clear worked. When certain that all is dry, mist on a light coat or two of the Krylon, then a very light "gloss" coat."  Let it cure well. Then continue with a light gloss coat of your basic paint. Deal with any overspray texture.

[Doug Moisuk]

If you use dope you must be careful. Be sure the decal is dry. Dope thinner can eat the decal. So apply several mist coat with drying between then you can apply a heavier coat.

[Ken Culbertson]

The nice thing about the KBS in the aerosol can is you can spray the decal before installing it to make handling a little easier, than do a final topcoat with the rest of the ship.

I stumbled on this quite by accident.  I make a lot of inkjet decals, lettering, etc.  I would put them on then watch them get smudged quite easily.  I sprayed a sheet before trimming and no more smudging plus they were easier to apply.  Works with vinyl as well.

Ken

[Paul Smith]

I have a few sheets of water slide decals I want to use but am out of fuel proofer like 30 years ago! I am thinking of shooting clear butyrate though an air brush, but am interested in an easier way.
What are you guys doing?
Thanks!

Clear CAB with the airbrush is what I use.  If you're airbrushing to begin with it doesn't cost anything.  I clean the spray head in a shot glass after every color change and reclaim the tinted thinner.

Back in the 1960's they used to sell a "fuel proofer" that you could brush over color dope and decals without smearing them.  It worked, but it had kind of a chincy-looking shine that I didn't really like.

[Larry Wong]

I have a few sheets of water slide decals I want to use but am out of fuel proofer like 30 years ago! I am thinking of shooting clear butyrate though an air brush, but am interested in an easier way.
What are you guys doing?
Thanks!

Phil this is what I use. spray 2 light coats ink jet decal,let dry and apply , then you can apply butyrate or 2k clear over it.

[Avaiojet]

I'm at a loss because I haven't seen the decals.

I'd take them to the local sign shop, they can scan them and print full color on vinyl.

Apply the vinyl, after the vinyl copies are applied, clear with a 2K auto clear.

Plane will get ruined before you see a change in the vinyl graphic.

Charles

[Larry Wong]

I have a few sheets of water slide decals I want to use but am out of fuel proofer like 30 years ago! I am thinking of shooting clear butyrate though an air brush, but am interested in an easier way.
What are you guys doing?
Thanks!

http://www.aeromaniacs.com/Tips.html

[Phil Hawkins]

Thank you guys! I think I am going try a very thin coat of 30 minute epoxy then dope it clear.
I had the privilege to speak to Tom Morris this week and he too gave the 2K automotive spray a thumbs up. But also warned that it can get heavy if not careful.
These are a couple of 1/2A planes. One a Brodak Little Toot and a Scientific ME109.  The Scientific kit is the one with water slides, but I have several other sheets, some of recent production some vintage.
Thanks again! I am going to also test the newer decals with the light butyrate brush or spray. I have done that before but with mixed results. Fortunately I have a few extra full color sheets.

[Phil Hawkins]

Thank you! That is an awesome resource!

http://www.aeromaniacs.com/Tips.html

[John Carrodus]

Hi Phil
Question
             Do they need fuel proofing? As a kid I don't recall issues with them peeling off or degrading through fuel. sunlight maybe. However most of my models then were diesel. Just asking.

Now I mess with markings on my poota , print on usual paper, cut out and seal with 3 or 4 coats clear automotive rattle can.
glue on with gluestick ( allows a bit of movement) then spray again with clear. On shrink coating on wings I seal edges with nail polish , as I do the black line detail. ( see below on my scratch semi scale - emphasis on Semi - Spitfire) Not the same stuff, but can't see why it wouldn't work for you too,,,,,,assuming
(1) You know how to use rattle cans properly. There are a few tricks , plus never invert to clear nozzle .Wipe with finger every time you stop or pause for more than 5 seconds so u don't run outa puff with half the clear left.
(2) The clear doesn't degrade your decals.
For what its worth.
Good luck

[Phil Hawkins]

Hi Phil
Question
             Do they need fuel proofing? As a kid I don't recall issues with them peeling off or degrading through fuel. sunlight maybe. However most of my models then were diesel. Just asking.

Now I mess with markings on my poota , print on usual paper, cut out and seal with 3 or 4 coats clear automotive rattle can.
glue on with gluestick ( allows a bit of movement) then spray again with clear. On shrink coating on wings I seal edges with nail polish , as I do the black line detail. ( see below on my scratch semi scale - emphasis on Semi - Spitfire) Not the same stuff, but can't see why it wouldn't work for you too,,,,,,assuming
(1) You know how to use rattle cans properly. There are a few tricks , plus never invert to clear nozzle .Wipe with finger every time you stop or pause for more than 5 seconds so u don't run outa puff with half the clear left.
(2) The clear doesn't degrade your decals.
For what its worth.
Good luck

I always fuel proof decals. As a kid we had Aerogloss fuel proofer. And that was just brushed on and no clear. Fugly, but don't look so bad at the end of the lines!

[Phil Hawkins]

Hey Phil

1) Rattle Can 2K Urethane is going to be “easier” but $16 (plus shipping) for one can, which you throw away, which is why it’s easier than airbrushing dope where you need to thin the dope and eventually clean the airbrush.  Also you MUST spray it outdoors and you SHOULD wear a good respirator cuz the stuff is real bad for your lungs.  The bright side is the stuff is incredibly fuel proof and you can completely coat 2, 3, maybe 4 airplanes, you just have to have 2/3/4 airplanes ready for clear coat at the same time.

https://everestautomotivemarket.com/paint-and-coatings/clearcoats/2k-glam-hi-gls-clearcoat-sprymx-aerosol/

2) Clear fingernail polish also works and can be brushed or airbrushed if thinned with acetone.  Not ALL brands work.  So the not-so-easy part is testing to find the right one.

3) 30 or 60 Minute epoxy is clear and very fuel proof but it’s hard to get a show-car quality finish because of the viscosity.  Do not use 5 minute, the ONLY thing that gummy rubbery junk is good for is gluing broken styrofoam back together.

4) Klass Kote Clear 2-part paint is great, absolutely fuel proof but pricey.

5) Clear shrink-film, Monokote or Ultracoat or ?

Waiting to hear what others are doing…

PW

Thanks Paul,
I am glad I did not think of the epoxy trick, if I had I would not have figured out what automotive rattle can I will need. I need to reshoot and clear Sylvia's side mirror cover. She's an Amazon champ, I will get her to order a can or two...

[Phil Hawkins]

Phil this is what I use. spray 2 light coats ink jet decal,let dry and apply , then you can apply butyrate or 2k clear over it.

Whoa! I am definitely going to give this a try. This could be a game changer for me. I have other needs to fuel proof decals for the mini bikes I like to customize.