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General control line discussion => Open Forum => Topic started by: Paul Taylor on April 14, 2010, 07:24:46 PM
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So we talk a lot about planes, painting, engines, lines, what about your handles?
Do you make your own?
If so how do you do it?
Any pictures?
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Well, Well,
No one else is going to reply Paul, so I will! Just call up Carl Shoup(sp) and get one of the handles that Ted Fancher designed. You won't be sorry - It's a great handle.
Jim Pollock H^^
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2Hot Rocks,an EZ-Just, and several of Tom Morris straight and offset kit handles. 2 of Bill Gruby's beautiful red oak offset,bar-type handles. I'm no expert, but they all feel pretty good in my extra large hand! (piano/guitar player)
I like the Ted wooden Hot Rock, need to get one of those too. The Hot Rock just feels "right". Thats what I grew up with...
LL~
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I make my own Paul as you can see from the post by Rich. Comercially available ones will not fit my paws. I need a little over 4.5 inches to fit my hand comfortably. To explain how it's done would take up too much room here. I'll post a link to the How Too I did on this. I also make the hardware for the blue Brodak like reel.
"Billy G" y1
http://www.brotherhoodofthering.info/flightline/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=546&posts=94&start=1
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http://www.brotherhoodofthering.info/flightline/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=546&posts=94&start=1
"... restricted to specific user accounts."
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Found at a hobbyshop in Little Rock.........among other "Tom Morris" treasure, were these wooden C/L handles>>
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"... restricted to specific user accounts."
Sorry about that. I'll see if I can find a way for you to access it. Don't know if you can without registering but I'll try.
"Billy G" H^^
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Billy G, is it possible to make an abbreviated version of your article for posting here? Something that shows the most essential things.
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Billy G, is it possible to make an abbreviated version of your article for posting here? Something that shows the most essential things.
One thing I can do is post a few of the essential pictures. That thread went 4 pages before it was finished. I really don't want to go thru that again. LOL let me see if Ricg Grogan knows how to bring the link here. We will do something for you.
"Billy G" y1
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The Tom Morris handle is a good buy at $20.
As I have found, when you fly bigger, heavier airplanes, the comfort of the handle in your hand becomes a HUGE factor. A handle that you can tolerate with a 2-pound plane will blister and cut your hand with a 4-pound plane.
This is my Morris handle with some fuel-proofing and custom work. The wingnut makes it adjustable.
The crossbar is shimmed out a bit to clear my knuckles.
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I use a hard point handle and carve the grips.
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I use a Brodak Rock Crusher hard point handle...
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Many many people use the MNT handles, in my opinion they are the best out there
But whatever handle you decide to use try to get one that is fully adjustable without any Overhang differance
and at least try it, with the handle being close to 90 degrees in relationship to the plane
Randy
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I've got 2 of the MNT hard point handles and they are overall the best I have found yet. Really rugged but still very light. Adjustments are simple and very positive. Great handle.
Steve
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The safety thong is an overlooked part of handle comfort, my opinion. A thick, smooth nylon rope type thong is easy to don, even in the wet. The loop stays open on its own, and you put your hand through the loop with no hassle; no need to use your other hand at all. Snug it by just rotating your wrist. Quick!
Disadvantage: At my age, people may think I’m anticipating a mid-flight stroke and really need that extra strength safety thong.
Grip tape: For those of us with sweaty palms even in November, a good grip tape helps us not grip the handle too tightly. That keeps “soft forearms” for better fine motor control of the hand and wrist muscles – or so Jack Nicklaus says in another sport.
Which reminds me. I’ve flown with a “lefty” golf glove, and that is the best of all possible solutions for sweaty hands. However, the hassle of keeping the glove free of oil, fitting a starting glove over it, and having another “piece of equipment” to keep track of makes the glove too much of a nuisance, at least for me. If you have sweaty hands, you might consider a golf glove. Just remember (if you are not a golfer) you want a left-handed glove if you are right-handed. The glove might also be an option if you have one of those cool "Billy G" handles that you couldn't possibly cover with ugly black bike tape. 8)
The Morris handles (Control Line Central) have wider line spacing than most. With proper planning, you can set up slower controls inside the airplane and go up to 4 7/8” at the handle.
The Morris handles are great for those of us with smaller hands, as they’re easy to customize. Just shave the side cheek bulge down to a comfortable fit. You large hand guys certainly wouldn’t need to remove any wood, but I really don’t know if the “gorilla hand” guys like them or not.
Larry Fulwider
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Well I just finished two hard point handles. A Fancher I got from Carl Shoup and a handle with a solid D ring of flat metal with cork grips. Didn't get the guys name. Will try and get pictures later. H^^
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One thing I can do is post a few of the essential pictures. That thread went 4 pages before it was finished. I really don't want to go thru that again. LOL let me see if Rich Grogan knows how to bring the link here. We will do something for you.
"Billy G" y1
Sorry Bill, they need to be a member to view. Lots of members on this forum are members there as well. Easy,painless signup. Nice building thread Bill!
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I have a Bill Gruby handle which I made using his thread on The Ringmaster forum (www.brotherhoodofthering.info). Here are a couple of photos to give an idea of how it is constructed.
The handle is oak and the adjustable portion is a strip of 1/2" by 1/8" aluminum strap. The strap is held to the handle with 10-24 hanger bolts (wood screw threads on one half and 10-24 threads on the other (Bill drilled the handle all the way through and counter sunk long 10-24 screws to mount the strap). The adjustable portion is accomplished by using 3 10-24 carriage bolts. Two are center drilled through the entire length and the third is drilled through the square portion just below the cap. The strap is drilled and then filled to receive the three carriage bolts. The two center drilled bolts fit into slots for line width adjustment and the under the cap drilled bolt fits in a square (drilled then filled) hole in the center of the strap. The slots can be formed by drilling a series of holes and filling out the material between to make a slot. Those with a mill available can simply mill an appropriate width pair of slots. The strap and the two center drilled bolts are held in place with washers and nylon filled 10-24 lock nuts and the center lock (drilled beneath the cap) bolt uses a washer and a wing nut. Cable is threaded through the center drilled bolts and the sub cap drilled locking bolt to make an easily adjustable setup. Finally a hole for the safety thong is drilled in the lower extension of the aluminum strap. The last photo is of a simpler handle which David Strawn made using Bill's adjustable arrangement so you can see the cable threaded.
Hope this helps. Lots more information and how to tips are in Bill Gruby's thread on the Brotherhood site (http://www.brotherhoodofthering.info/flightline/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=546&start=1)
John
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Made from pieces of leftover composite decking boards, a little heavy for some people but they work for me.
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I seem to have acquired a bunch of handles over the years, and used all of them! Mostly the big EZ Just ones when I was younger. LL~
My favorite in the MNT 100, my son, Aaron, has a smaller one but it cramps my hand. I haven't been able to use a Hot Rock since my youth.
I have one of Billy G.'s handles and it is very nice!
I also like the Fancher handle in the XL size. And I have made several over the years. Most of those have been copies of the handle Windy use to make, but I did make one of the Baron handles, and used it for a while. I have a basically new Bob Hunt handle from ???? When I got my Morris handle, he only made the tilted one, so I haven't used it since I first got it. I just need a handle big enough for my knuckles, sine I fly with the handle well out in my fingers. Oh, Yeah, I have a *Presentation* model from Dick Byron, a very nice handle that I often use for Classic planes (when my son isn't using it! LL~
But all the ones I use now are fully adjustable (and Randy will secretly adjust it when I ain't lookin'! LL~ )
Big Bear
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I purchased three of the Ted Fancher/Carl Shoup handles, but haven't used any of them yet. Haven't decided on the best way to finish/paint them. How are you guys finishing them??
I thought about vacuum bagging 3/4 oz fiberglass cloth over the handles then spraying automotive primer on to fill the weave of the glass cloth. Once the glass cloth is smooth I wanted to paint them with K&B epoxy paint.
Any thoughts or suggestion would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Mr Steve 09
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I think you would be just as well to smear epoxy over them working it into the grain, then wipe the excess off. then if you want paint them, but I dont like slick shiney handles.
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I just used satin air dry clear polyurethane on all my Tom Morris handles. Even on a hot day, I haven't had a problem yet.
Cheers, Geoff
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I have tried some different finishes on my handles , and found that once you drag it over the tarmac a bit , the hard brittle finishes soon get chipped and worn off , and also don't contribute to a good grip. What I am using on the four Fancher handles that are currently in my flight box, is PLASTI DIP Made by Plasti Dip International in Blaine Mn. It is sold for increasing the grip on tool handles.A rubbery compound that comes in different colors.Simply dip the handle in it using the instructions on the can , hang to dry overnight . It's like a coating of rubber on your handle and bonds quite well with the balsa surface .I have bought it from the Rona-Revy stores, in Canada. Keith Varley
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So we talk a lot about planes, painting, engines, lines, what about your handles?
Do you make your own?
If so how do you do it?
Any pictures?
I've been using this type of the handle starting about two years ago. It's a hard point type handle that made out of Aluminum and Cork. Extremely light weight (~2 OZ) and the the cost is very reasonable ($15). This particular one was modified by Warren Tiahrt to bring the hinge points closer to the grip.
Sean
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I purchased three of the Ted Fancher/Carl Shoup handles, but haven't used any of them yet. Haven't decided on the best way to finish/paint them. How are you guys finishing them??
I thought about vacuum bagging 3/4 oz fiberglass cloth over the handles then spraying automotive primer on to fill the weave of the glass cloth. Once the glass cloth is smooth I wanted to paint them with K&B epoxy paint.
Any thoughts or suggestion would be appreciated.
Except for the vacuum bag part, that's about how I do mine. 3/4 oz glass with nitrate dope, a healthy shot of K&B primer, and then Superpoxy. With forced drying (food dehydrator) I got a great finish in about a day.
Brett
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I have a Bill Gruby handle which I made using his thread on The Ringmaster forum (www.brotherhoodofthering.info). Here are a couple of photos to give an idea of how it is constructed.
Just an observation, but those have a HUGE amount of overhang.
Brett
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Just an observation, but those have a HUGE amount of overhang.
Brett
Hi Brett,
Yes, as they come, Billy G.'s handles have quite a bit of overhang, but it is easy to fix. ;D
Bill
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The safety thong is an overlooked part of handle comfort, my opinion. A thick, smooth nylon rope type thong is easy to don, even in the wet. The loop stays open on its own, and you put your hand through the loop with no hassle; no need to use your other hand at all. Snug it by just rotating your wrist. Quick!
Disadvantage: At my age, people may think I’m anticipating a mid-flight stroke and really need that extra strength safety thong.
Grip tape: For those of us with sweaty palms even in November, a good grip tape helps us not grip the handle too tightly. That keeps “soft forearms” for better fine motor control of the hand and wrist muscles – or so Jack Nicklaus says in another sport.
Which reminds me. I’ve flown with a “lefty” golf glove, and that is the best of all possible solutions for sweaty hands. However, the hassle of keeping the glove free of oil, fitting a starting glove over it, and having another “piece of equipment” to keep track of makes the glove too much of a nuisance, at least for me. If you have sweaty hands, you might consider a golf glove. Just remember (if you are not a golfer) you want a left-handed glove if you are right-handed. The glove might also be an option if you have one of those cool "Billy G" handles that you couldn't possibly cover with ugly black bike tape. 8)
The Morris handles (Control Line Central) have wider line spacing than most. With proper planning, you can set up slower controls inside the airplane and go up to 4 7/8” at the handle.
The Morris handles are great for those of us with smaller hands, as they’re easy to customize. Just shave the side cheek bulge down to a comfortable fit. You large hand guys certainly wouldn’t need to remove any wood, but I really don’t know if the “gorilla hand” guys like them or not.
Larry Fulwider
Hi Larry,
A tape that is easy to find, cheap, and works great is Tennis Racquet grip Tape. It goes on easy, leaves no marks when yuo swap it out, and absorbs moisture pretty well.
As to if the *Gorilla Hand* guys like the Morris handle, I just need to get creative with the Dremel! The knuckles where my hand meets my fingers won't fit, but I fly in my fingers, anyway. LL~
Big Bear
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A tape that is easy to find, cheap, and works great is Tennis Racquet grip Tape. It goes on easy, leaves no marks when yuo swap it out, and absorbs moisture pretty well.
That's what we all use, too - Gamma Gauze brand.
http://www.bellracquetsports.com/catalog.asp?prodid=549954&showprevnext=1
Brett
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Vater Drum Stick tape works really well on handles, too.
http://www.samash.com/p/Drummers%20Grip%20Tape%204%20Rolls_185284