Hosekeeping, last night. 9 Tower 40. 13 FP40.

[Dennis Moritz]

And you? I am 63. Is this a lifetime supply? Buy more? Stop myself. A serious addiction?

[Dennis Adamisin]

Wanna couple LA's???       

[Dennis Moritz]

You mean the cheap cast crank wannabees.

[Bill Little]

Hi Dennis,

I would venture to guess that you probably have enough to last both our lifetimes. 

I don't look at any of this hobby as an addiction....... yeah, I could quit anytime I want to...... yeah, I don't HAVE to do it!  I'm not a hoarder, I'm a "Collector".........

Big Bear

[Bill Heher]

In my hotel room in Rio Rancho N.M.
1 OS .35 FP
1 OS .40FP - minus crank
1 OS LA.46 on Tutor II ARF
1 OS .35 FP ( actually on a Banshee hanging at CLC backroom)

In storage in Phoenix - for when I go there to work
1 OS .35  FP on a Twister
1 OS .35 FP spare
1 OS .25 FP on a Ringmaster

In Portland OR - for when I go there to work
1 OS  .35 FP on a Banshee
1 OS  .35 FP for spare parts

AT home in Orlando

No real idea but about 3 LA.46, 3 FP .40, 1 .35 FP, 2 .25 FP, 2 15 FP, 2 .10 FP and a bunch of FOX, COX, K&B, ST, Magnum and Royal engines

Not an addiction- just can't pass up a good deal - and there are sooo many good deals!!~ Besides - I'm an engine guy- they last longer than planes!

[Paul Taylor]

So Bill,
Where do you store your stuff in Portland? In Richards trailer?

[Clint Ormosen]

How 'bout this. 8 FP 40's plus a few FP clones, and 14 Brodak 40's. I'm going for an even 20 on the Brodaks.

Dennis, I think we have problems with addiction.

[Garf]

I don't even want to think about how many I have. Johnson, Fox, K&B, Super Tigre, Brodak, OS, McCoy.............

[Bill Heher]

So Bill,
Where do you store your stuff in Portland? In Richards trailer?

Well the last time I saw the plane, I put it in his trailer, and the first time I ever saw it it came out of his trailer, and I volunteered it as a loaner when folks like you manage to wrangle a trip to Portland and my not be able to bring a plane, so it is probably still in his trailer.  Hey Richard- I'll send the rent check for storage with my dues!  The extra stuff is in a box in a friends garage.

[Brett Buck]

And you? I am 63. Is this a lifetime supply? Buy more? Stop myself. A serious addiction?

   Time for an intervention?

    I really have nothing I can say. I have 9 tube-type portable radios within 10 feet of where I am sitting.

     Brett

[wwwarbird]

You mean the cheap cast crank wannabees.

 If that's all they are, they sure do run good. Four .40's, three .35's, four .25's, two .15's and three .10's in my personal pile, and that's just the FP's.

[dennis lipsett]

Not a serious 'collector in the bunch. I'm not a collector, I'm a hoarder. This is just some of the 'cheap' stuff there are a few more cabinets and drawers  and chests of engines stashed in the house. The landfill will love me when i'm gone.

[Steve Fitton]

   Time for an intervention?

    I really have nothing I can say. I have 9 tube-type portable radios within 10 feet of where I am sitting.

     Brett

There was such a thing?  Tube type and portable don't seem to go together...

[Steve Fitton]

And you? I am 63. Is this a lifetime supply? Buy more? Stop myself. A serious addiction?

I think you have enough.  Why not save your pennies and buy some better motors instead?

[Dennis Moritz]

Steven, you don't mean buying a -----------

[Steve Fitton]

Steven, you don't mean buying a -----------

Well, you don't have to go out and get a TroubleStar 60, although I have had a bit of success with one    If you ran one of those Banjock would never let you have a minutes peace ever again.

PA, Aerotigre, RoJett or even a good old ST 60 or 46.  My personal feeling is that a purpose built stunt motor beats an R/C motor pressed into the stunt role any day of the week.  And yes, I've flown Tower 40s, FP 40s, 35s, LAs, both in the retimed and stock "Philly" mode.  I have about 7 or 8 runnable OS and Towers, and another 6 or so smashed beyond recognition from some unfortunate events...

Or, you could defect to the dark side and run an electric job.  I suspect Palko knows a thing or two about that setup(!)

I didn't start to get good results till I stepped "back" from the OS motors to a good old stock Fox 35 in a Gieseke Nobler.  All of the sudden I learned what help a truly consistent motor run did for your patterns, and how much easier it was to fly the plane.  When the Nobler folded I went back to a OS powered job, and never ever got the rock steady repeatable runs I had with the Fox.  The much maligned DS 60 lite I put in the TM 60 was an order of magnitude more repeatable than the Fox, and allowed me to really concentrate on flying the plane vs cursing tiny variances in the motor run from flight to flight.  My feeling is that the high rpm (4 to 4.5 pitch) run on the OS family is an effort to "hide" from the inherent run instability they possess.  Its ok, but there is much better out there.

You can have a pile of cheap motors, or one or two good ones.  You will crash the good stuff much less because the motor run will always be right and thats 90% of keeping the plane out of the dirt...

A postscript: I have defected from the DS to a PA for the Pampa plane, because even the steady loop scavenged DS shows annoying, albeit tiny variances in run quality while inflight.  After 900 or so flights on the plane, they tend to seem massive, and I find that the piped engine is *that much more* consistent.

[Dennis Moritz]

Thanks Steve. I expect to go there, eventually, as I continue in this sport. Now, I'm learning with the cheap stuff and making progress. Jack Weston, after all, did win or come in second a few times at Brodak in Advanced using a Philly style setup with a Gieseke Nobler and a Vector 40. Palko flew an FP40 powered Accenter out of Advanced. (But that's Palko, of course, a true flying talent.) I don't think it's the motors that keep me from turning a decent looking corner. The last three years have been non-stop working on things professional. Couldn't build much. Stuck with what I had and what I knew something about. Should have more time now. Our FPs and LA46s are cheap, but run more reliably than you might think. A big error in FP running is trying to make them do what they are not timed to do. They are timed to 2 stroke with a low pitch prop. Run that way the results are repeatable. 9 times out of 10, in my observation, when an FP (or LA for that matter) goes ballistic or erratic, the issues are fuel, tank, plug, prop, dirt in filter etc. I'm beginning to think that one important advantage the purpose built stunt motors have over the LAs, FPs and the like, is the ball bearing case. I think the bushing front ends can wear enough to effect crankcase pressure. Especially in my case. Since I use an electric starter due to carpal tunnel syndrome. One sweet running old tower I've now used in three different planes, has a crank that knocks, audibly, back and forth. I expect that sweet engine will soon leak air. Ball bearing front ends are, I believe, more tolerant of starter loads and the like. Worse comes to worse, the worn bearing gets popped out and a new one popped in.

[FLOYD CARTER]

I'm proud to admit I've gotten rid of all my Fox 35s.  I couldn't be happier!

Floyd

[Andrew Tinsley]

Hi Steve,
  Brett isn't the only one with a tube, portable radio perversion! I have several. They were not too uncommon in the 50's and 60's. My problem is they don't do the 90 volt / 1.5 volt batteries anymore! The last one I had was powering an R/C transmitter. I thought it smarter than running a motor generator set up from a 12 v auto battery!

Regards.

Andrew.

P.S.Ii must own up to a dozen FP20s with the obligatory E2030 silencer!

[Bill Richards]

Hey budy, you always fail to mention that sweat running ,highly tuned fp40 in that there jamison , now I know where to get a tower 40

[Brett Buck]

 Brett isn't the only one with a tube, portable radio perversion! I have several. They were not too uncommon in the 50's and 60's. My problem is they don't do the 90 volt / 1.5 volt batteries anymore! The last one I had was powering an R/C transmitter. I thought it smarter than running a motor generator set up from a 12 v auto battery!

http://home.comcast.net/~morrised2006/radios/radio6.htm


       I use the Jim Poinvient ABBATTERY (check ebay) battery for my Transoceanics and for the 1941 Zenith Universal. It's the equivalent of an Eveready 752 and gives 9 volts and 90 volts from 9 "D" cells. That's what most of them want.

    The ABBATTERY unit is pretty slick but it's almost trivial to make a battery from however many 9 volt and C or D cells you need. I just got the parts to make another battery using 10 9v batteries and 6 C cells. An alkaline 9 volt (10 in series) gives the B+ and since there's not much current draw, lasts forever. The filament supply on the Transoceanic H500 and subsequent is a series string and needs to be around 9 volts for 2 1U4 tubes, a 1U5 or 1S5, a 1L6, and a 3V4. The draw is about 60 MA so alkaline C's are up to the task. Modern batteries have tremendously more capacity than the originals and any of these is much lighter than the original pack. In any case, the idea of a "portable" radio has somewhat changed since the 50's - these things are built like tanks. The originals used the 752 battery (9/90) but could be converted to use 2 45s and 2 4.5s, and in fact that's how my Universal is set up right now. My next step in restoring it is undoing this wartime modification and putting it back the way it was. This is somewhat hampered by lack of a schematic, but it shouldn't be too hard to figure it out.

   I haven't gotten all of my radios working but I think my Philco needs 1.5 and 90.

     Just as a note, I am pretty sure you are aware of this but none of these things are particularly safe to run on house current (the "mains" as I think you would call it) even when new, much less 50-60-70 years later. In almost all cases the chassis can be "hot" if you plug it in the wrong way, and at best the power supply filter capacitors are about to die if they haven't already. If they die you will get a loud 60-cycle, er, 50-cycle hum. Shortly followed by either a blown rectifier tube, or a blown selenium rectifier, toxic and horrible-smelling smoke, and a visit from the local fire department. Almost none of them are fused, either. That's all pretty easy to fix (new fuse clip, new power supply caps, and a 1n4005 or so diode to replace the rectifier). They are very safe when running on battery power. Although alkaline 9-volts in series can pack a pretty good wallop, it's not likely to kill you.

    Brett

p.s BTW, it's pretty amazing, but after cleaning the switches and battery interlock switch but no other repairs, every single one I have tried so far has fired right up and worked to some extent. Even the very complex Transoceanics, even if they had been stored in a leaky barn for 50 years and are covered in 1/4" of mud or have mouse nests inside them.

   A vaguely-airplane-related observation - one of the most common methods to restore the outer covering on the Transoceanics is to recover them with Coverite and black airplane dope.




      

[schuang]

   I haven't gotten all of my radios working but I think my Philco needs 1.5 and 90.

     Just as a note, I am pretty sure you are aware of this but none of these things are particularly safe to run on house current (the "mains" as I think you would call it) even when new, much less 50-60-70 years later. In almost all cases the chassis can be "hot" if you plug it in the wrong way, and at best the power supply filter capacitors are about to die if they haven't already. If they die you will get a loud 60-cycle, er, 50-cycle hum. Shortly followed by either a blown rectifier tube, or a blown selenium rectifier, toxic and horrible-smelling smoke, and a visit from the local fire department. Almost none of them are fused, either. That's all pretty easy to fix (new fuse clip, new power supply caps, and a 1n4005 or so diode to replace the rectifier). They are very safe when running on battery power. Although alkaline 9-volts in series can pack a pretty good wallop, it's not likely to kill you.

    Brett

p.s BTW, it's pretty amazing, but after cleaning the switches and battery interlock switch but no other repairs, every single one I have tried so far has fired right up and worked to some extent. Even the very complex Transoceanics, even if they had been stored in a leaky barn for 50 years and are covered in 1/4" of mud or have mouse nests inside them.

   A vaguely-airplane-related observation - one of the most common methods to restore the outer covering on the Transoceanics is to recover them with Coverite and black airplane dope.




      

Brett,

I got 2000+ all sorts of vacuum tubes by accident..  Anyway, if you got blown tubes, I may have one for you.

Regards,

Sean

[Brett Buck]

I got 2000+ all sorts of vacuum tubes by accident..  Anyway, if you got blown tubes, I may have one for you.

 Thanks for thinking of me! I have a pretty good supply. But I am always interested in good 1L6 tubes, 50A1's, and any NOS 5AR4/GZ-34s. And don't just give them to me, NOS 1L6's are pretty expensive and a NOS Mullard GZ-34 is around $100. Other valuable tubes are NOS Telefunken or RCA 12AX7s, Mullard EL-34s. Other than that, tubes are generally plentiful and all the common types like 12Ax7s and that family, EL-34/6CA7s, 6550s, 300b, that are used for either guitar amps or hifi, are still made in Russia, Slovakia, China, etc.  eBay is the place to divest yourself of them, if you want.

     Everybody *wants* the old German, British, or US types but in some cases the cheap Russkie tubes are just as good. A NOS Telefunken 12AX7 "smooth plate" is around $100, the JJ 12AX7 is something like $4 and as near as I can tell is *better* (less microphonic). I am running 5 Russkie tubes and 2 inexpensive US NOS tubes in my stereo even as we speak. The only one that seems failure prone is the Sovtek GZ-34 but they are very cheap and at least tend to fail "open" and therefore keeps the rest of the amplifier from getting blown up.

     Brett

[Jim Thomerson]

I have been very pleased with my Tower 40's.  I have several.  There was a post on one of the forums about their history and development.  According to the post they were very carefully and accurately made.  I'm flying a Fox stunt 35 at the moment, and it runs to suit me.  Next airplane will have a Tower 40.

[Eric Viglione]

Brett - I gave my last tube Transoceanic to EddyR a year or two ago... kept the solid state one, and kept some old farm tube radios that I've converted to run on a new power supply instead of a tractor battery.     The 1 volt tubes just got silly to find or pay for when you did find them as you noted.

My favorite table top tube radio is an old Phillips I refurbished. Initially I grabbed it for its cool round dials, amazing woodwork and inlay's, but came to appreciate it for it's DX capabilities. It's actually a good radio, even by modern standards.

For my stereo listening pleasure, the only ruskie equivelent to the 7189's Amperex that seem to hold up are the "military grade" or some such, because of the much higher voltage rating. My Scott 299b is really fussy about biasing, and will make any substandard tube (EL84 6bq5 just dont work! at least not for long...) plate glow red if I don't bias it right away and keep it running slightly below spec. Thats fine with me, they seem to run a hair cleaner sounding under bias'ed anyways. With efficient speakers, it's amazing how 25 watts can drive you out of the room as much as a modern 100watt amp.

But back to the topic - Dennis - I've got your OS MAX collection beat in quantity on St46's and St60's, and the sad part is I don't really run them anymore, but don't have the heart to cut them loose. I thought the sun rose and set on them until I started running PA's...In hind sight, I think the ST46 is a much more stunt friendly motor out of the box than the ST60... I may do a Nos 30 ship for one someday, and ya never know when you'll need a spare, hah! But the PA's just seem to run forever without fiddling or wearing out. Almost boring really, especially if you are the kind that likes to tinker, heh heh.

EricV

Thanks for thinking of me! I have a pretty good supply. But I am always interested in good 1L6 tubes, 50A1's, and any NOS 5AR4/GZ-34s. And don't just give them to me, NOS 1L6's are pretty expensive and a NOS Mullard GZ-34 is around $100. Other valuable tubes are NOS Telefunken or RCA 12AX7s, Mullard EL-34s. Other than that, tubes are generally plentiful and all the common types like 12Ax7s and that family, EL-34/6CA7s, 6550s, 300b, that are used for either guitar amps or hifi, are still made in Russia, Slovakia, China, etc.  eBay is the place to divest yourself of them, if you want.

     Everybody *wants* the old German, British, or US types but in some cases the cheap Russkie tubes are just as good. A NOS Telefunken 12AX7 "smooth plate" is around $100, the JJ 12AX7 is something like $4 and as near as I can tell is *better* (less microphonic). I am running 5 Russkie tubes and 2 inexpensive US NOS tubes in my stereo even as we speak. The only one that seems failure prone is the Sovtek GZ-34 but they are very cheap and at least tend to fail "open" and therefore keeps the rest of the amplifier from getting blown up.

     Brett

[dennis lipsett]

Brett - I gave my last tube Transoceanic to EddyR a year or two ago... kept the solid state one, and kept some old farm tube radios that I've converted to run on a new power supply instead of a tractor battery.     The 1 volt tubes just got silly to find or pay for when you did find them as you noted.

My favorite table top tube radio is an old Phillips I refurbished. Initially I grabbed it for its cool round dials, amazing woodwork and inlay's, but came to appreciate it for it's DX capabilities. It's actually a good radio, even by modern standards.

For my stereo listening pleasure, the only ruskie equivelent to the 7189's Amperex that seem to hold up are the "military grade" or some such, because of the much higher voltage rating. My Scott 299b is really fussy about biasing, and will make any substandard tube (EL84 6bq5 just dont work! at least not for long...) plate glow red if I don't bias it right away and keep it running slightly below spec. Thats fine with me, they seem to run a hair cleaner sounding under bias'ed anyways. With efficient speakers, it's amazing how 25 watts can drive you out of the room as much as a modern 100watt amp.

But back to the topic - Dennis - I've got your OS MAX collection beat in quantity on St46's and St60's, and the sad part is I don't really run them anymore, but don't have the heart to cut them loose. I thought the sun rose and set on them until I started running PA's...In hind sight, I think the ST46 is a much more stunt friendly motor out of the box than the ST60... I may do a Nos 30 ship for one someday, and ya never know when you'll need a spare, hah! But the PA's just seem to run forever without fiddling or wearing out. Almost boring really, especially if you are the kind that likes to tinker, heh heh.

EricV

Eric, what you didn't see is that there are 9 Jetts and 5 Nelsons in that cabinet along with Moki 60 and 51, New Enya 60's. Along with Aero tigre,Thunder Tigre, Super Tigre, Irvine, YS ,K&B, RJL.Tartan both single and twin ,MVVS ,Webra,Even Fox. Many of those boxes have more then one engine in them. Don't force me to go to the other cabinet or it will get messy or the 5 full deep drawers full of engines.As I said I'm not a collector but a hoarder.
Dennis

[Brett Buck]

Brett - I gave my last tube Transoceanic to EddyR a year or two ago... kept the solid state one, and kept some old farm tube radios that I've converted to run on a new power supply instead of a tractor battery.     The 1 volt tubes just got silly to find or pay for when you did find them as you noted.

      I actually have found a pretty good supply of 1L6's which is the only really expensive one. 1U4, 1U5, 3V4, 1S5s are pretty cheap. The Loktals used in the 8g005 and Universal are $4 or so.

  BTW, you may or may not know that some guy makes a solid-state replacement for the 1L6 that has far better sensitivity, and always works at low battery. But it's cheating. You can also replace the $50 1L6 with a $4 1LA6 (Loktal) with a little trickery, and their performance is nominally identical.  

   What I am not going to do is use 1L6s in my Philco and H503Y - no point, a 1R5 will work just as well on AM.

My favorite table top tube radio is an old Phillips I refurbished. Initially I grabbed it for its cool round dials, amazing woodwork and inlay's, but came to appreciate it for it's DX capabilities. It's actually a good radio, even by modern standards.

   I have a Telefunken Opus 7 and a Blaupunkt (that I repairing to give away for Christmas - waiting on an Eye Tube from Mocba) for table radios, and they both completely blow away any hi-fi tuner I have for sensitivity and since they are mono, don't have any problem with multipath, unlike the stereo tuners. I also have a Zenith 5s319 and it, too, is awfully darn sensitive. None too selective, and on Shortwave it's almost impossible to tune because one dial covers 5.5-20 Mhz. Good thing I have the steady hand of a stunt flier...

For my stereo listening pleasure, the only ruskie equivelent to the 7189's Amperex that seem to hold up are the "military grade" or some such, because of the much higher voltage rating. My Scott 299b is really fussy about biasing, and will make any substandard tube (EL84 6bq5 just dont work! at least not for long...) plate glow red if I don't bias it right away and keep it running slightly below spec. Thats fine with me, they seem to run a hair cleaner sounding under bias'ed anyways. With efficient speakers, it's amazing how 25 watts can drive you out of the room as much as a modern 100watt amp.

     The 299b is pretty sweet. I rebuilt some Scott equipment for some guy, and man, it had a lot of parts!  I can slap an ST-70 together in an evening, it took a few weeks of evenings to just replace the critical parts in that Scott preamp. Sounds good when its working.

   On a related topic, if you want to see some beautiful work, check out:

http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=70681.0

    Bill is a damn genius, I would haven't even attempted going down to bare metal on that Scott preamp. I just can't see how he did it, just from the pictures he took with no schematic.

    I am currently running a Van Alstine Ultimate 70, and it gets about 33 watts/channel. It gets plenty loud enough and since the only Dynaco parts left are the chassis and the output iron, it doesn't sound "tubey" to any great extent. 33 watts/420 volts is well within capability of an El34/6CA7 so they are pretty reliable. Can't say the same for the rectifier tube, unfortunately. And I am not switching to a solid state rectifier without some sort of delay circuit. It's not exactly a match for my Insight+ 260hc but as tube amps go it's as good as I have ever heard regardless of money (including the second from the top VTL that had something like 16 6550s - per side).

    I can easily imagine that you need something special to get 25 watts out of an hot EL84!  Most EL84 amps are claimed to be 17 watts, but most actually measure around 12. I would guess that the B+ is around 340-350V and an EL84 is 300 max. As I recall the 7189 is around 400, which makes it very nervously close to the edge, but would certainly make short work of a EL84. I would actually be tempted to do the opposite - run the 7189 at about 280 in an EL-84 amp, give up the power but gain the reliability.

    Someone makes an automatic bias control gadget for Dyna ST-35s, if I can find a reference it might be worth looking into for the Scott. Pushing it to that level, you really can't let the bias drift at all.

    Brett

[schuang]

Thanks for thinking of me! I have a pretty good supply. But I am always interested in good 1L6 tubes, 50A1's, and any NOS 5AR4/GZ-34s. And don't just give them to me, NOS 1L6's are pretty expensive and a NOS Mullard GZ-34 is around $100. Other valuable tubes are NOS Telefunken or RCA 12AX7s, Mullard EL-34s. Other than that, tubes are generally plentiful and all the common types like 12Ax7s and that family, EL-34/6CA7s, 6550s, 300b, that are used for either guitar amps or hifi, are still made in Russia, Slovakia, China, etc.  eBay is the place to divest yourself of them, if you want.

     Everybody *wants* the old German, British, or US types but in some cases the cheap Russkie tubes are just as good. A NOS Telefunken 12AX7 "smooth plate" is around $100, the JJ 12AX7 is something like $4 and as near as I can tell is *better* (less microphonic). I am running 5 Russkie tubes and 2 inexpensive US NOS tubes in my stereo even as we speak. The only one that seems failure prone is the Sovtek GZ-34 but they are very cheap and at least tend to fail "open" and therefore keeps the rest of the amplifier from getting blown up.

     Brett

Brett,

I collected quite a few audio-related tubes many years back and that was the reason I got these 2000+ tubes home (from a retired radio repair man locally here in Tucson) because I spotted at least 5 NOS Telefunken 12AX7s during the quick glance.  I went through all these boxes and cherry-picked most of the audio tubes as part of my collection.  The most interesting tubes that out of them are antique double-digit tubes such as 23, 42, 45 just name few.  I believe these were from 1940's.  Not as rare as NOS WE300B but quite interesting.

Sean

[Brett Buck]

The most interesting tubes that out of them are antique double-digit tubes such as 23, 42, 45 just name few.  I believe these were from 1940's.  Not as rare as NOS WE300B but quite interesting.

   I don't know, those 45s are used in various gutless SET amps used by the "fewer part are better" (and 1 watt at 10% distortion is super-great) aficionados. Now, if you put ~16 of them in parallel...

     Brett

[schuang]

   I don't know, those 45s are used in various gutless SET amps used by the "fewer part are better" (and 1 watt at 10% distortion is super-great) aficionados. Now, if you put ~16 of them in parallel...

     Brett

yup, A similar idea has been done.  I knew a guy in japan put 4 of 300b's in parallel for real..   



Sean

[Clancy Arnold]

I was at Marvin Deny's home early this year and did a write up in Control Line World, July 2010, on his "Junk Barrel" collection.  None of the listings so far come close to matching Marvin's Junk Barrel.
Clancy

[dennis lipsett]

I was at Marvin Deny's home early this year and did a write up in Control Line World, July 2010, on his "Junk Barrel" collection.  None of the listings so far come close to matching Marvin's Junk Barrel.
Clancy

Clancy,
Marvin is 15 years older then me. I still have time LOL.
Dennis

[Randy Ryan]

"Hosekeeping, last night. 9 Tower 40. 13 FP40."

I keep my hoses coiled in the shed. 

[Steve Fitton]

Moritz, for the size planes you like to fly, just humor me and try picking up an aerotiger 36 at the big swap meet up there some time.  Then fly it a bunch and tell me if you like your OS setup as much as before

[Alan Buck]

Hi Dennis sale your tower 40s & fp 40s. buy a Aero/tiger36 and you will be a happy camper Alan

[dennis lipsett]

Hi Dennis sale your tower 40s & fp 40s. buy a Aero/tiger36 and you will be a happy camper Alan

Your too late Alan, You know that I have them and just got a new one a few weeks ago.But since your a dedicater PA user,Ill take your surplus Aero Tigers off your hands. LOL.
Oh and I have never used an OS40FP in a RC or C/L model. The Tower is an anomoly in that it is excellently made and one wonders how Tower actually managed to sell it. Even stranger, why they stopped. It wasn't for lack of sales.
Dennis

[Dennis Moritz]

Alan, what were you flying at the NATs? This is the trouble with winter. No contests. Little flying. Lots of debates. Dan Banjok would have me using a Fox 35 or an FP. No one in the Philly Flyers owns an Aerotiger. Wait. Joe Adamusko does, but he's more likely to fly a PA or Supertiger or Ro Ro. He also gets up early and flies early. Flying at 8 o'clock in the morning. Impossible. Rarely get to see him. Part of the point of Tower 40s and FP40s is the CHEAP THRILL price. I am proud to say that I never spent more than $39 on any of my vintage beauties. Most were $25 or less. For real. Honest. Two Thursday night pizza, french fries and ice cream meals. With the sorrowful band of outsiders.

[Dennis Moritz]

Besides. I know it's a weird thing to observe. But my latest Tower powered plane, an ARF Oriental that very nearly ARFed me (took a month to figure out how to devise decent controls), actually loafs around in what appears to be an actual 4 stroke till I point the nose up and it kicks into a higher gear. It behaves, my god, like a stunt motor. Only eight or nine flights so far. In 60 and 50 degree weather. So. We'll see what happens when the trees bud again and temps climb. My Orange Unnamable profile, last season's comp plane, ran sloppy sloppy rich 6 second laps at Muncie. Pull the nose up and it went up and over. 5 ounces plus per flight. Reliable, repeatable, stunt power as long as the very old Banjok plumbed uniflo clunker didn't leak. LA46.

[Alan Buck]

Dennis at the nats a PA40 with a pipe. last year was a PA51 in my sv22 next years will be a sv22 with aPA65 with a pipe. I have used tower40 &fp40 both were reworked and stock la 40's and 46's with good results  Alan

[dennis lipsett]

Dennis at the nats a PA40 with a pipe. last year was a PA51 in my sv22 next years will be a sv22 with aPA65 with a pipe. I have used tower40 &fp40 both were reworked and stock la 40's and 46's with good results  Alan
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Alan, I know that you use PA's. Good equipment speaks for itself. However we can't knock anyone using other stuff as it can all work if you take the time to get it working. Trouble that Randy's stuff works so well that it dosn't make sense to want to do the work anymore.. The LA 46, anyone can use that engine and feel good about themselves.I happen to like the Tower 40 and the TT36/42 as my favorite engines to go out and fly for my own gratification. I don't compete so I can pretty much do anything I want and generally do. You know I'm just ribbing you . Dennis

[Dennis Moritz]

Dennis! this is Dennis.

Alan, Steve and Eric are just trying to get me to take it easy on myself. (I think  ) Truth is I like to compete. Hard to believe sometimes considering my so so results and my stubbornness. For some reason I refuse to take the conventional route. For years I messed with FPs and Towers having them run run runaway. Dan Banjok and Mike Palko indulged me for many hours and many seasons. (While Jack's Weston's FPs simply just ran sweet.) Also I had this fetish about profiles which are prone, of course, to weird vibes FPs and Towers do not like. Then, one day, as they say in children's stories, the stuff worked... Tom Hampshire sold me an Orange Unnameable for $35. (The thief!) It is a 38 ounce Tanager type plane that loafs and does the tricks nicely when powered by an LA46. Now my other comp planes are full fues (but ugly!) with stiff enough front ends to give the FPs, Towers, and LAs a chance to work right. The full fues switch came after Mike and Dan prodded me for years to give my profile ADDICTION up. (I mean years.)

Guess it's a winter morning. No flying in the 39 degree weather today. Alas. Windy too. Makes me consider the pitfalls of my CL life...

And You. Confessions of wrong headed stubbornness? Am I the only one who resists a clear path for success? Choosing, instead... (As a sidebar, I HATE ELECTRIC.)

[dennis lipsett]

Dennis, it's kind of cool to have 2 people named Dennis and one of them is responding to anothers thread and muddying the waters.
Fortunately Alan knows me and I can rub him a little in fun. But I don't think that anyone here is hard headed. I fly all types of C/L models and have no preference for profiles. They are a quick, dirty way to get a sport model into the air. Thats why Debolt made the first one. Of course to call some of the profile masterpieces that have been presented here quick and dirty is to be dull witted.
Having seen the Philly flyers stuff work I can vouch for their set up. But it isn't really too hard to get the engines mentioned in the thread to run well, just some are better then others. Your right, good engines always works better, but not everyone wants to make that financial commitment in something that they do casually.
I've found that most of the problems with profiles are caused by the tank installation also there are some types of tanks that are more problimatical then others. I'm leaning more towards my old favorite clunk tanks for more trouble free set ups then hard metal.
I wish that I was the type that built one model and flew it for 15 years like some of the personalities on the forum. However I have a short attention span after a model is done and look for something else. So I have an interesting gallery of models of all types and I guess that I'm too old to change my bad habits. So it will continue to be an unusual assortment of old time, classic, modern, profile and full bodied models in my stable for the indefinite future.
Dennis........the other Dennis .......I think.....LOL