Home Made Adjustable Lead Out Guide

[Rusty]

Hey Guys,

I was looking for info on making my own lead out guide and found this.  This design is without the machined nylon block.

http://www.tulsacl.com/ajustleads.html

If anyone knows where I can find the dimensions of the nylon guide, I would appreciate it.

Rusty

[Jim Svitko]

I cut a piece of 1/8 inch thick nylon/Teflon and run the leadouts thru that.  No inserts, just let the braided leadout rub on that guide.  Clamp that nylon piece to the main plywood piece with blind nut and 4-40 screw.  One guy I fly with has been doing it this way for years without any issues so I decided to go with it.

[Paul Wescott]

If anyone knows where I can find the dimensions of the nylon guide, I would appreciate it.

Rusty

Rusty, as you yourself said “This design is without the machined nylon block”.  So which nylon guide are you asking for the dimensions of?

The Tulsa CL (Glue Dobbers) design uses a wooden slider, with two empty pop-rivet heads, and two pieces of scrap plastic tubing.  You don’t need the entire part to be made of plastic and it certainly doesn’t need to be machined.

[Brett Buck]

Hey Guys,

I was looking for info on making my own lead out guide and found this.  This design is without the machined nylon block.

http://www.tulsacl.com/ajustleads.html

If anyone knows where I can find the dimensions of the nylon guide, I would appreciate it.

Rusty

   I think the design will probably be fine, I have done similar in the past. But now I just cut out a delrin block using a razor saw and file it to the final shape. It's 4 cuts and takes a few minutes, no machining necessary.

      Brett

[Rusty]

Rusty, as you yourself said “This design is without the machined nylon block”.  So which nylon guide are you asking for the dimensions of?

The Tulsa CL (Glue Dobbers) design uses a wooden slider, with two empty pop-rivet heads, and two pieces of scrap plastic tubing.  You don’t need the entire part to be made of plastic and it certainly doesn’t need to be machined.

I want to make one with the nylon block.  I think the ledge that slide in the groove is the same thickness as the plywood plate.   

[Brett Buck]

I want to make one with the nylon block.  I think the ledge that slide in the groove is the same thickness as the plywood plate.

  Slightly less (maybe .010 or so), need to ensure that there is some clamping pressure. You don't need a lot of pressure, because the washer will dig in, but you do need some. Measure your plywood first, you might find it is not a proper size, a lot of it is closer to metric sizes now.

    Brett

[Steve Helmick]

I'd just go with the TGD method as shown in the link.

One thing I would suggest is to attach the leadout guide to something more sturdy than a 6 lb. balsa rib. I managed to break the rib when trying to adjust the LO's, and it wasn't convenient, to say the least! I did the repair from the bottom of the wingtip (OPP kit built SV-11) and added hard 3/16" square verticals at each end to make it idiot proof. Because it apparently wasn't idiot proof before.  Steve

[Rusty]

Thank you for the help.   

What I am going to use it on is a Twister.    I obtained an OLD twister kit.  I plan using it for templates to scratch build one.  I will implement some of Ted's modifications while building it.   The rib that the lead out guide goes on is capped with 1/8 light plywood.  I plan to use the Enya 35 (nice one) that I got from Dave Trible. 

I have not got to fly my Vector that I built awhile back, due to not having anyone to fly with.  My friend Jim is out of the hospital, so hopefully soon he can go flying again.

Rusty

[William DeMauro]

The Twister is the easiest plane to put adjustable lead outs in . Just cut a slot in the plywood tip and make your slider and install it. Cut out enough of the balsa rib so that the slider moves freely.

[john e. holliday]

A little side note,  put a lock nut on the adjusting screw so it will only back out so far.  I have had the screw back out on me at one time.  I have used the Tulsa method for years.

[Dan McEntee]

The Twister is the easiest plane to put adjustable lead outs in . Just cut a slot in the plywood tip and make your slider and install it. Cut out enough of the balsa rib so that the slider moves freely.

   
 
   Tip weight can be done external also, no need for a box. Put and extra plate inlaid into the outboard tip rib for a couple of 4-40 blind nuts aboit 1/2" apart. figure out how you want to shape the weights to attach with 4-40 screws against the outboard tip. Have matching holes in the weight plates. Smash the stick 'em on weights flat with a hammer after breaking them apart in the 1/4 oz. increments, and start with 4 of them for initial flights and fine tune from there. Real easy to get to for adding and subtracting and just making sure they are secure. Locate it just in front of the ends of the spars.

  Type at you later,
   Dan McEntee

[Rusty]

That makes 2 things Dan can take over: 1) Dan can take over having a junk barrel in memory of Marvin Denny and 2) Dan write a book on "Control line set up tips" in memory of Harry Higley. 

Thanks for the outstanding tips, especially about putting a longer bolt and lock nut.  I can see that happening to me. 

Rusty

[Ken Culbertson]

A little side note,  put a lock nut on the adjusting screw so it will only back out so far.  I have had the screw back out on me at one time.  I have used the Tulsa method for years.

Now he tells me - I have been there and done that with the unscrewing of the lockdown bolt.  Now I just make it longer but a lock nut on the end makes so much more sense.

Ken

[Dan McEntee]

Now he tells me - I have been there and done that with the unscrewing of the lockdown bolt.  Now I just make it longer but a lock nut on the end makes so much more sense.

Ken

    A blob of glue works also. That way, if you have to or want to take the screw out after the model is finished, you can carefully work it back and forth against the blind nut and pop the glue off and remove the screw. When rep[lacing, a small hole is enough to get another dab of epoxy or thick C/A on the end again.

  Type at you later,
  Dan McEntee