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General control line discussion => Open Forum => Topic started by: Robert Whitley on February 12, 2018, 12:04:18 AM
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This idea possibly has been covered before but its new to me.
I was getting ready to do the hinge slotting on a 3/16” stab and elevator and thought that rather than digging out my old v-notcher and hook knife I would try my oscillating saw.
I used a scrap ply spacer to centre the blade on the surfaces and plunged the tool. It took less than a second and I had a perfect slot and hinge fit.
The tool I used is a Ridgid cordless with a Dremel wood cutting saw blade. There are many brands of tool both cordless and corded that would work the same.
To taylor the width to one’s needs would simply involve grinding or sanding a blade to the appropriate width. An additional plus is that these blades have depth measurements printed on them for plunging.
If a thicker cut is needed one could add another spacer and make a second cut.
If this method has been previously posted I apologize as I was unable to find it.
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I use a Dremel cut-off wheel mounted in drill press. That keeps slots perfectly level. Of course, this must be done before assembly.
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The tool I used is a Ridgid cordless with a Dremel wood cutting saw blade. There are many brands of tool both cordless and corded that would work the same.
Photos please? :)
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I’ll post photos in a couple of days when I have time to get back in my workshop.
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This idea possibly has been covered before but its new to me.
I was getting ready to do the hinge slotting on a 3/16” stab and elevator and thought that rather than digging out my old v-notcher and hook knife I would try my oscillating saw.
I used a scrap ply spacer to centre the blade on the surfaces and plunged the tool. It took less than a second and I had a perfect slot and hinge fit.
The tool I used is a Ridgid cordless with a Dremel wood cutting saw blade. There are many brands of tool both cordless and corded that would work the same.
To taylor the width to one’s needs would simply involve grinding or sanding a blade to the appropriate width. An additional plus is that these blades have depth measurements printed on them for plunging.
If a thicker cut is needed one could add another spacer and make a second cut.
If this method has been previously posted I apologize as I was unable to find it.
Great idea. I didn't click on this topic for awhile because I thought I knew how to make hinge slots. You have a better way. Thanks.
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My brother, Tom, clued me into this method. He even sent me an oscillating Dremel tool. I cut some beautiful slots with it that fit the hinges perfectly. A couple of days later I was going to glue them in, but the hinges were a very (too) snug fit. I'm guessing that the tool "mushed" some of the balsa around the slot, which later relaxed. It was easy to open up the hinge slot with a fingernail emory to perfectly fit the hinge, so I still like the method. I don't know if this is typical with using an oscillating cutter, but it's something to be aware of.
Rick
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Photos?
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As mentioned in my previous post I’ll include some pics in a day or two when I can get into my shop.
In response to the slots seemingly snugging up, try blasting them with a shot of compressed air to clean out any residue from the cutting process.
I have found a perfect fit for the Dubro hinges I used.
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Sounds great.
I also like Floyd's method, that should also work very well indeed.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZyIfgm7O4Rc
As promised, here's a video showing my hinge slotting method.
Hopefully, this will be of benefit to some of my fellow modellers.
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Thanks for sharing
Ron
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Robert,
Nice video. Really nice.
Do you have a tight photo of one finished hinge?
CB
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Thanks Aviojet.
That is actually the first video that I have ever done.
Also my compliments to you for all the sharing that you and so many others do for all of us on the forum.
I’ve been away from the hobby for forty years and greatly appreciate the availability of this venue and all of Sparky’s efforts to help retreads like me.
I’ll get some detailed stills posted sometime this evening
Cheers
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Robert,
I was so busy watching you work, I just noticed that fine framed Flite Streak?
Looks like it's framed and covered nicely.
Plans for it as far as paint?
Charles
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Charles,
That’s actually a rebuild of one of my old beaters from the mid 1970’s.
All that’s really left of the original is the wing minus the tips and flaps.
It really was my mule and flew with many engines including the .36x that’s going back on it to a ST.46.
It was always nose heavy because I had lightened the back end too much so on the resurrection I left the fuse 1/2” to the tail and made the empennage 3/16”.
The nose had the 1/2” cheek cowl from day one and put up with the Fox vibrations very well so I did that again.
The undercarriage was raked back originally and worked very well so I reinstalled it the same.
The tank is a cut down Perfect to 3 1/2 ounces to fit the available space.
The original covering was Super Coverite and I hope the doctor table and dope covering will be adequately durable.
I’m planning on on a classic Flite Streak paint scheme using black, Bahama blue and Pontiac red colours since I have these left over from full size aircraft that I used to have.
A weak area was always the fin so I mortised it into the fuselage about 1/2” in an attempt to add some more strength to it.
Also added are adjustable lead outs and tip weight box.
I am simultaneously redoing a Baby Flite Streak with a Black Widow.
I’ll try to remember to post pics on a build post.
I’ll do the requested hinge pics in the next few hours.
Cheers
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As promised, Charles, here's some pics. Note that these are not glued in, nor will the detailing be done until priming.
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And one more pic.
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Per the last thread on this topic, I'll still vote for laminating the TE of whatever and the matching LE of the flapper with the notches already installed. Use 1/32" core, and use the Utah trick hinge installation trick...strip of silkspan folded over the hinge tab and two drops of thin CA glue to install each hinge. John Miller first wrote about this method, and said he used a door frame to push the hinge halves in equally...clever. John also credited Gordan Delaney with inventing the method. It's the Bee's Knees.
Most guys around here remove the hinge pins and use a single 1/32" music wire pin per flap or elevator. Also dunk the hinge knuckles in molten Vaseline to keep the CA out. D>K Steve