Help wanted for plane trailer

[RC Storick]

I have always wanted a dedicated plane hauler and the deal arose that I could afford one (well get it anyway). Shown are three pictures of said trailer and my intent is to set it up as a plane hauler only. It will have a 5-gallon fuel tank for flying, paper towel holder. It will also have 110 volts 1200 Watts for charging a laptop, phone, Camera gear. I need a place to haul popup and tools. I might mount a cheap TV to the door for viewing videos at the field.

Please post any photos of your trailer, van, car airplane holders. If you have the idea of a neat graphic for a vinyl sign for the side that would help. The trailer is only 5X8 so it's small.

[Dan McEntee]

   First off, I would advise that you leave the outside as "plain" (pun not intended) as possible. Lot's of graphics that might lead some one to think that it is filled with lots of expensive stuff ( it will be!)  and will make it tempting for thieves. The first thing to look at in my opinion is good, leak proof ventilation and then work around that. Heavy gear to be stored on the floor, and airplanes above the heavy gear, or heavy gear stacked in front. Planes in racks similar to what you used for that load I towed to Paducah a few years ago. That worked well.
  Type at you later,
  Dan McEntee

    PS to add: I can't see the tongue frame work. If possible, I would put the flammable/potential dangerous stuff like gasoline, generator, and batteries on a frame on the tongue for when it is in use. When not in use, remove and store inside trailer. I should not add too much tongue weight, and you could counter with a secure mounting of heavy stuff behind the axle. You want some weight on the tongue for towing stability, as much as 70% of the load, I think. Look at some U-Haul trailers, they usually have an advisory sticker on weight distribution on them.

[peabody]

What Dan said...
The brand is a good one....I had one, albeit bigger, that I made too many round trips between NJ and FL.
Good luck!

[Mike Scholtes]

Looks promising so far. I can probably get you some pictures of the interior of the Oakland Cloudusters trailer that has made maybe 20 round trips from California to Muncie full of model stuff without incident. It is bigger than needed for CL since has to include one or two chase motorbikes for FF but same general idea. Has sliding trays at rear of trailer on one side for tools, parts. I do agree to make it as inconspicuous as possible.

[Peter in Fairfax, VA]

Measure your height, too.  I'd suggest a simple 3/4" PVC rack, about six planes high and anchored.

[Norm Furutani]

I have a 5x8 and also agree with Dan's comments. Especially the ventilation. The aluminum box is like a solar oven. Can't comment on the set-up, mine is for FF and has to carry motorbikes and boxed models. What's really nice is you can leave all you field support equipment in the trailer (pop-up, chairs etc.) and not have to load/unload when going and coming back from a meet. Do load the trailer nose heavy or you will have a tail wagger going down the highway. If you need to move your trailer for storage, a dolly, like https://www.harborfreight.com/600-lbs-heavy-duty-trailer-dolly-60533.html?_br_psugg_q=trailer+dolly is real handy for moving in the yard.

Norm

PS- Mike - The OCD trailer is a familiar sight! Along with Bud Romak, a great guy!

[Dan McEntee]

I have a 5x8 and also agree with Dan's comments. Especially the ventilation. The aluminum box is like a solar oven. Can't comment on the set-up, mine is for FF and has to carry motorbikes and boxed models. What's really nice is you can leave all you field support equipment in the trailer (pop-up, chairs etc.) and not have to load/unload when going and coming back from a meet. Do load the trailer nose heavy or you will have a tail wagger going down the highway. If you need to move your trailer for storage, a dolly, like https://www.harborfreight.com/600-lbs-heavy-duty-trailer-dolly-60533.html?_br_psugg_q=trailer+dolly is real handy for moving in the yard.

Norm

PS- Mike - The OCD trailer is a familiar sight! Along with Bud Romak, a great guy!

    I have that dolly and it works well. Watch for sale coupons at $39.99, what I paid. Handles my 5X8 utility trailer full of vintage dirt bikes. Saves the old back quite a bit.
    Type at you later,
  Dan McEntee
 

[RC Storick]

This trailer only weighs 690 pounds and my max tow ability is 1500 So at 4 pounds a piece I would need to carry 270 stunt planes. Not sure I could get them all to fit. JK

[Paul Wood]

I have the same size trailer that I use for R/C planes. The biggest problem I have is with no trailer suspension, the planes and equipment take quite a beating. Everything must be secured to the max. I doubt that C/L planes will be difficult to secure, but the big R/C planes tend to break a PVC cradle. I had to make my carriers out of wood anchored to the floor to keep the planes in place. All other equipment must be secured in place or it will cause mayhem.

Paul

[Mike Scholtes]

The OCD trailer has a sturdy box with a lid at the very front of the interior for heavy items, tool boxes, whatever needs to be secured. Everything goes into a sliding tray or a box, nothing that could come loose and go flying around inside. Looks like Robert's trailer has large wheels, which is a plus and makes it ride better and follow better.

To Fred: Yes, Bud is a real character and a master builder of exquisite models way beyond my skill level. I have been flying pals with trailer's owner, Bill Vanderbeek, since we were 11 years old. Still at it 60 years later.

[RC Storick]

I have the same size trailer that I use for R/C planes. The biggest problem I have is with no trailer suspension, the planes and equipment take quite a beating. Everything must be secured to the max. I doubt that C/L planes will be difficult to secure, but the big R/C planes tend to break a PVC cradle. I had to make my carriers out of wood anchored to the floor to keep the planes in place. All other equipment must be secured in place or it will cause mayhem.

Paul

I am going to add shocks to dampen the ride

[peabody]

Robert...leaf springs are self damping. I doubt that shocks will make a difference.
I think that you'll be surprised with the weight that you carry: it accumulates fast.
I suggest that electric be mounted to the top. Also consider an external outlet for both 120v and 12v.
With LEDs, plenty of interior and exterior lighting is possible.

Have fun.

[Jim Mynes]

You can go nuts with electrical power for the trailer, solar panels, battery banks, inverter, shore power inlets, etc.
Or you can keep it simple and get a small (2000 watt) inverter generator and have a couple of extension cords to plug in to. Expand later if you feel the need.
The Harbor Freight generators are getting pretty good reviews. I own Honda, so I’m not in a position to review the HF machines, but the guys on the RV forums seem to like them.
Just be sure to get an inverter generator. They are quiet and won’t rouse the anger of your neighbors.
A 2000 watt generator will run any modeling related power tool, maybe several at once unless one is the soldering iron. My Honda will run the air conditioner in the camper, but nothing else along with it.
Another handy option is cordless power tools. The Milwaukee M12 line has a cordless soldering iron, rotary tool, tire inflator, drills, saws, and much more. Step up to M18 and you can get a table saw, chop saw, even a chainsaw. Use the generator to recharge those batteries.

[John Rist]

I had a similar setup.  It was stolen right of the front yard.   I had a padlock on the hitch.  Crooks come in with a under size hitch ball.  Drop your locked hitch over the ball.  Strap it in place with a large cable tie and drive off.  Takes about 1 minutes.   On the next trailer, when parked, I set it on jack stands and removed the tires.  Another thing I looked at was electronic tracking devices.   Admittedly mine was bigger making it ideal for south of the border contractors to hall tools.  Anyway my point is a hitch lock doesn't work.  If in plain site when not in use think in terms of a big log chain or anything that will slow then down. PS a trailer kills gas mileage, at least my bigger one did. 

[john e. holliday]

Contact Dave Fisher of F2D combat flying.  I thought I had pictures of it.  He had it at the F2D meet in KC last year.  Every thing needed for the meet was there and loud music for entertainment between matches.  But he needed a good size vehicle to pull it..   Also as stated make the exterior as plain as you can get it.  I asked one of the race car teams why they didn't put graphics on the trailer so we could know who was the team.  Too many people that don't respect other people valuables.

[Tim Wescott]

I am going to add shocks to dampen the ride

I think you will find that shocks will help a little bit, but shocks + softer springs will help a lot.if you go down that road make sure you still have enough suspension travel, you'll need more of it.

[Tom Vieira]

i'd leave the outside unmarked.  if you start putting decals and vinyl on it, it starts to look like a toy hauler (which it is), which makes it attractive to the less reputable types.

[Phil Krankowski]

Get a solar vent for a boat.
https://www.westmarine.com/buy/nicro-ventilation--solar-minivent-1000--183733 
Also available with a stainless top.  You will probably need a passive vent too.

Weight distribution is key.  Trailers with appropriate tongue weight trail best.  Side to side balance is also important, but not as much as tongue weight.  Invest in the correct hitch to trail level.

Phil

[TigreST]

I've have towed a small motorcycle trailer for years and never had any trouble with stability..but that's not because I knew anything about proper trailer loading and tongue weight.  My trailer tends to load the tongue/hitch with weight just because that's the way it's designed, if only one bike is being hauled..the weight bias is over the hitch.  Weird sh!t can happen when things are loaded incorrectly.

[Tim Wescott]

I had a similar setup.  It was stolen right of the front yard.   I had a padlock on the hitch...

I'm thinking that if I get a trailer it'll have spoked  wheels, and when it's parked there'll be a chain through the spokes.  Which won't keep someone with bolt cutters from stealing the thing, but hey -- you can't make things thief proof, just thief resistant.

[John Rist]

I'm thinking that if I get a trailer it'll have spoked  wheels, and when it's parked there'll be a chain through the spokes.  Which won't keep someone with bolt cutters from stealing the thing, but hey -- you can't make things thief proof, just thief resistant.

Like I said, it's  hassle but putting the trailer on jack stands and removing the tires worked for me.  Also I stored the tires inside getting them out of the sun.  My trailer was parked  on a side drive way out of the way making it easy to jack and pull the tires.   This trailer was a gutted Coleman pop up camper.  I removed the beds, stove, frig, and shower.  Also removed the gas bottle  and all the pluming.   The roof  air conditioner worked and I left the prota-potty in place.  I had the canvas top cut down to remove the part that went over the pull out beds.  I placed a 3KVA generator on the tong. This ran the air and all my power tools and chargers. Towed much better than a tall trailer.  Had less than $600 in it including new wheel tires and wheel bearings.    Due to my old age I sold it it for ---------$600.  What a deal. 

[Tim Wescott]

I really like the UHAUL video.  I've followed some pretty scary-looking rigs, but never seen one leave the road.

... Weird sh!t can happen when things are loaded incorrectly.

[Steve Helmick]

Solar panels for the roof, charging a bank of batteries to run the inverter for 120V. and whatever voltage you need. Like others have said, keep the outside plain, not plane. Get a banner or two made at a sign shop and figure out how to fasten them to the sides of the trailer when you are at an event. Also figure out a way to strap the sunshade to the trailer when at an event. Put in a false floor and store the sunshade and batteries under that to keep the heavy stuff (CG) low and separated from the fragile stuff. Be sure the batteries are accessible for water checks or whatever maintenance is required, AND vented outside with some airflow around them. You can also get a battery charger setup to charge them off your tow vehicle while on the road.

It looks like it has 12" wheels? Frankly, trailer tires are crappy (often made in PRC), so have a spare tire/wheel or two aboard, jack, and lug wrench that fits! I would consider upsizing to 13" wheels so I could use passenger car tires...better quality and often cheaper and more available. Having an air compressor to pump the tires up to the 50 psi range would be great, tho those little ones take a long time to pump up a tire. I have a HF pancake compressor that I paid $40 for. It runs on 120v., but light and compact, so I can carry it to my neighbors driveway and pump up their flats! I use it often in Winter, when the tire pressure monitoring system says I have a low tire due to the low temps.

For the record, when discussing the towing ability of a vehicle, I prefer to keep the trailer down to about 50% of the rating. Partly because of paranoia, but also because it isn't flat around these parts, so YMMV.      Steve

[TigreST]

......... so have a spare tire/wheel or two aboard, jack, and lug wrench that fits! .......

Good points Steve.

In my picture above you can see a spare bolted to the trailer at the front.  What you don't see is a second spare in the back of the truck. These are not brand new tires and rims, but I think in a pinch they will get me to a safe haven should I loose a tire.  I keep the tire pressures up to spec to ensure the tires stays as cool as it can.  Also back there is a "Trailer support" tool box.  It contains two complete bearing kits, extra cap screws for the wheels (no lug nuts on this Cerka unit), bearing grease and all the tools required bang a set of bearings into a hub on the road, plus a bottle jack.   When I know I've got plans for a trip of some distance the trailer gets the semi-annual over-haul a couple weeks in advance (close inspection of wheel bearings, tires, wiring runs, etc).  The normal gas stop routine, even before I hit the restroom, is a put a hand to the wheel hubs and bearings area's and check temperatures.  The only thing that has been close to a mishap for me was the loss of a couple cap screws on one wheel, I ran with four fasteners on each wheel until replacement were found at a gas stop down the road.     

T.

[Tim Wescott]

Good points Steve.

In my picture above you can see a spare bolted to the trailer at the front.  What you don't see is a second spare in the back of the truck. These are not brand new tires and rims, but I think in a pinch they will get me to a safe haven should I loose a tire.  I keep the tire pressures up to spec to ensure the tires stays as cool as it can.  Also back there is a "Trailer support" tool box.  It contains two complete bearing kits, extra cap screws for the wheels (no lug nuts on this Cerka unit), bearing grease and all the tools required bang a set of bearings into a hub on the road, plus a bottle jack.   When I know I've got plans for a trip of some distance the trailer gets the semi-annual over-haul a couple weeks in advance (close inspection of wheel bearings, tires, wiring runs, etc).  The normal gas stop routine, even before I hit the restroom, is a put a hand to the wheel hubs and bearings area's and check temperatures.  The only thing that has been close to a mishap for me was the loss of a couple cap screws on one wheel, I ran with four fasteners on each wheel until replacement were found at a gas stop down the road.     

T.

I had a trailer wheel come half way off, complete with the hub and bearings, in the left lane on I-84 in Boise.  The service station owner that did the overhaul had let his kid do the job; said kid put the bearings in dry and then squirted grease into the space between the bearings.  It spun a bearing on the spindle, which undid the nut, etc., etc.  I was in the "young and stupid" part of growing up to be old and (hopefully) wise, so I didn't know to check the bearings regularly.

I was thankful to have a 2-axle trailer, and some spare chain and chain binders hold up the bad axle until I got it off the @#$% freeway.

The worst part was that it was Friday or Saturday night -- the best save was that the closest hotel was just the sort of little dive where the old gal at the counter has a friend or cousin or something that runs an odd-hours trailer shop.  The guy got me back on the road by sandpapering the worst of the galling off of the spindle and using lots of Locktite for the new bearing.  I proceeded (slowly and carefully) to the Street Rod Nationals (I think it was in Columbus Ohio that year), where my dad was able to put new axles under the trailer for a much happier return trip.

I did check the bearing temperature regularly after that.

[Steve Helmick]

Have towed motorcycle trailer (8" rims) and bass boat (14") many, many miles, sometimes express trips to California and back, sometimes at 80 mph with the 8" rims. Always followed Tony's bearing maintenance plan and pumped the tires up properly. Be sure that your tire pressure gauge is accurate...I had one that read about 5 lbs higher than actual, and that cost me a set of tires on the boat trailer.

Short trailers are a pain in the butt to backup but tow much better than long trailers. Long trailer are a peach to backup. I have only had one instance of trailer sway scaring the poo out of me...going down the steep hill from Quincy into Wenatchee. Book says to stand on the GAS to stop the sway...it did. Then, I had to get on the brakes pretty hard to get slowed down to the speed limit.

Then, there was the blowout I had on the right rear of the truck while towing the boat (~3,000 lbs). Hit a piece of steel on the road...also punctured the right front. Happened right at the Snoqualmie Summit, westbound, so I knew I had to get it stopped before I got started down the steep grade...pulled hard to the right, but woke me right up. Having one spare tire, one dead tire and one leaking tire did not make for a good day. I got everything secured and waited for a pickup truck coming up the onramp and kinda walked out in front of him, rolling the flat but repairable tire. Worked out ok!  Steve