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General control line discussion => Open Forum => Topic started by: Dave Nyce on April 21, 2024, 12:27:48 PM
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Hi. I'm teaching a group of kids to build C/L planes. A few years ago, I bought 100 of each of the plastic motor mount and the bell crank shown in the photo. But I haven't been able to find them sold in bulk again. Does anyone know where to get them? Also, the rubber fuel bulb shown, is out of stock at Cox International.
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Brodak has one in stock.
https://brodak.com/fuel/pumps/sullivan-bulb-pump-4oz.html
Steve
Sent from my SM-N986U using Tapatalk
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Brodak has the larger, red one, in stock, at 4 ounces. I'm looking for the 2 ounce size that is better-suited for the 1/2A engines. (The kids like to copy what I'm using.)
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Mr. Dave,
I'm cheap...painfully cheap!
Last year's trailer and car license plates gave me enough material to make lots of "Cox engine mounts." Simply cut two rectangular plates (roughly 1"x1-1/4") and fold the short edge up to a right angle about 7/16" from the edge. Drill matching holes between the long sides and your fuselage, then hold an engine in place to mark the engine mounting holes. These aluminum plates are light and will last as long as the plane. I can attach a picture later if you need.
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I know I have seen those plastic engine mounts somewhere online recently, and I just can't place it. I think those came with the Estes/Sterling 1/2A kits, maybe? I may have seen them in bulk on eBay.
Type at you later,
Dan McEntee
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Dave,
I have the bellcranks and elevator horns in bulk. PM me to discuss.
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Dave, I salute your noble effort. I will be sending another care package, containing one Sterling 1/2A parts pack with motor mount, bellcrank, and horn, one loose Sterling motor mount, three bellcranks with horns, and I also have 4 of the Dubro #148 1/2A battery clips in package if you want them. Do you need any small line connectors? I probably have at least a dozen cluttering up my line clip box.
The motor mount in your photo looks like the Brodak one, or at least squirted from the same mold. Perhaps they will sell you some loose ones in bulk. Same goes for the bellcranks.
Bill Bischoff
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As an alternative to Sullivan bulbs, you can get 2 oz. polyethylene squeeze bottles on Amazon for well under a dollar each in quantity. I saw 100 pcs for $27.00. Select ones with a top that will work as is, or accept a brass tube spout.
BB
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I'll be digging through my tank collection looking for a tank for a project. I have a ton of the square small Perfect brand metal tanks. If just for going round and round and pulling positive G for a loop or wing over now and then, they should work. Ping me back if interested.
Type at you later,
Dan McEntee
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Looks like Mike can supply a bulk quantity of the bell crank. So, now I am looking for the plastic engine mounts.
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Just a side note, I've never had a Sullivan bulb that didn't deteriorate inside and leave small flicks of rubber in my tank/filter/nva. I won allot of races because people used those and I didn't. ymmv.
MM
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Brodak has the mounts and bellcranks:
https://brodak.com/1-2-a-motor-mount.html
https://brodak.com/brodak-c-40-1-2a-bellcrank.html
Unfortunately, they're now quite expensive. If you're making lots of mounts, you can do what I did. Go to Home Depot or some other home improvement store and buy 1/16" aluminum angle and cut it down to1" pieces, then drill for the engine mounting holes and fuselage mounting holes.
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For motor mounts try Vintage Performance Model Airplanes.
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PM sent.
Jim
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Syringes are plentiful and cheap. You can use them to limit the fill for first flights (short tanking), as well.
https://www.amazon.com/Syringe-20-Pack-Plastic-Syringes-Individually/dp/B09KRG8KYQ/ref=asc_df_B09KRG8KYQ/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=647241205888&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8613976217700707094&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1027116&hvtargid=pla-1954200792424&mcid=6d10d311f81837cc8c5c88ec426aaf31&th=1 (https://www.amazon.com/Syringe-20-Pack-Plastic-Syringes-Individually/dp/B09KRG8KYQ/ref=asc_df_B09KRG8KYQ/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=647241205888&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8613976217700707094&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1027116&hvtargid=pla-1954200792424&mcid=6d10d311f81837cc8c5c88ec426aaf31&th=1)
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For motor mounts try Vintage Performance Model Airplanes.
That looks home-brew 3d printed. I wonder if the stl file can be found online?
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That looks home-brew 3d printed. I wonder if the stl file can be found online?
Or how many guys on this forum could create a generic STL file and post it for all to use. Although I’m leery of 3D printed “structural” items, especially those subject to vibration. If the kids can build the rest of the plane from wood, how about having them build the same motor mount also from wood?
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Or how many guys on this forum could create a generic STL file and post it for all to use. Although I’m leery of 3D printed “structural” items, especially those subject to vibration. If the kids can build the rest of the plane from wood, how about having them build the same motor mount also from wood?
Helpful thought Paul.
Motor mount doesn't seem currently available at Vintage Performance Model Airplanes.
As a youngster, friends and I made and used plywood motor mounts likely for a fraction of printed plastic $ cost.
John
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Yes, sometimes we build a plywood firewall, like with the Skyray. But sometimes we like to use the plastic molded version, if available.
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Is or isn't it?
Helpful thought Paul.
Motor mount doesn't seem currently available at Vintage Performance Model Airplanes.
As a youngster, friends and I made and used plywood motor mounts likely for a fraction of printed plastic $ cost.
John
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Yes, sometimes we build a plywood firewall, like with the Skyray. But sometimes we like to use the plastic molded version, if available.
I like using the plastic Brodak mount for most of my 1/2A builds, as they are mostly profile planes. It's just quicker and easier to get a properly aligned engine. Also, when I build the fuselage, I put a couple of hardwood dowels where the two mounting screws go so that the holes don't elongate over time. I can also use one engine mounted to the Brodak mount and swap it between multiple planes in just a couple of minutes.
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For the motor mount I'd look on Thingyverse for the file. Our local library has a 3d printer: you email the file to them, they priint it, and a couple days later you go to the local library and pick it up. Easy!
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I wonder how they would feel getting 50+ pcs to print?
For the motor mount I'd look on Thingyverse for the file. Our local library has a 3d printer: you email the file to them, they priint it, and a couple days later you go to the local library and pick it up. Easy!
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I've been looking for the STL or G-Code (print files). No dice. I think Vintage Performance (Stan F.) created the source files as their name IS on the side. I doubt he would let the files go.
If anyone has those files, then it takes one more piece out of the hands of Brodak, RSM, Cox International, or any of their resellers.
Sheesh...I gotta learn my 3d printer.
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I wonder how they would feel getting 50+ pcs to print?
As long as you send them the files one per email, they don't seem to mind.
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If anyone has those files, then it takes one more piece out of the hands of Brodak, RSM, Cox International, or any of their resellers.
That wasn't my intention. I referred to Thingyverse since it seemed no one had one for sale.
I searched Thingyverse and they didn't either. So, wrong assumption on my part.
Frankly, I wish these resellers were making money hand over fist since that would be a pretty good indication of the health of the hobby.
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These kind of parts are easy to sketch up in many freely available CAD programs. The trouble with a lot of parts and sending to someplace is the material being used. For a model that will never sit inside a car or covered truck PLA can work. PETG would be better but it is an unknown whether the place you send your part to will have PETG. For a 1/2 A model straight up PETG would be fine. For anything large a glass or carbon blended material is necessary which most printers won't do a good job of printing as they generally require an enclosed environment. I know, someone will pipe in and say I do it the time on my open frame printer. I'm simply telling you about what my testing has shown and I've done a ton of testing.
Send me a PM Scott
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Mr. Scott,
It was only an observation. I'm a pretty heavy diy kind of guy. Unfortunately I have too many irons on the fire right now. Worst part is I have a small CNC 3d cutter and a 3d printer. Both have the same platen as one of the 3018 machines. Shoot, I haven't flown a plane since winter!
Mark,
Do you have a 3d printer? If not, but you have the "engineering side," maybe we could work something out. I don't know how viable such an arrangement may look given my schedule. But if the code were drop-in and print, I'd stamp out a dozen to start Mr. Dave out. It would be the incentive to light up the printer.
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Mark,
Do you have a 3d printer? If not, but you have the "engineering side," maybe we could work something out. I don't know how viable such an arrangement may look given my schedule. But if the code were drop-in and print, I'd stamp out a dozen to start Mr. Dave out. It would be the incentive to light up the printer.
I do. And I have the right Knowledge, skills and materials to do this job. I actually intended the PM comment for the OP.
Dave Nyce you could PM
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It was only an observation. I'm a pretty heavy diy kind of guy.
No problem! The same here except I haven't had the time to get into 3D printing except the few things I have sent over to the library to print for me: a little sanding block and exhaust pipes for my planes (an easy dress-up for almost any plane.)
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And I have the right Knowledge, skills and materials to do this job. I actually intended the PM comment for the OP.
In the past having done similar to what David Nyce is doing, I am sure that he would appreciate any encouragement or support you could provide him. A lot of people simply don't recognize the vaue of the "building side" of our hobby. Even some within our hobby! There is simply no better thing a young man could be involved in than our hobby - particularly the building arts.
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In the past having done similar to what David Nyce is doing, I am sure that he would appreciate any encouragement or support you could provide him. A lot of people simply don't recognize the vaue of the "building side" of our hobby. Even some within our hobby! There is simply no better thing a young man could be involved in than our hobby - particularly the building arts.
Well, my list of 3d printing application for model airplanes is quite extensive and my experience resulting from failures doing so has taught me a lot about what is necessary for success. That exhaust is a perfect thing.
The 1/2 A parts would be simple enough and made from CF impregnated PET would be durable. For a good cause, I would probably donate my time.