Guillows models are selling more than they ever had... laser cut...

[Chris McMillin]

Some you guys have got to break out of your ice age, man!

I saw a post about Guillows and wanted to comment in a positive direction about it. I am seeing more and more modelers actually building kits and flying them on the facebook (I know) Guillows site than I am CL. In fact, there are a ton of FF and RC modelers building Guillows, Diels, Dumas, Herr and other kits and flying them every day by evidence of videos posted daily on those sites. I'm a closet FF Rubber Scale guy so I belong to some of these groups. Dan McEntee helped me 30 years ago rekindle an interest in FF Rubber flying winter Indoor and have a good selection of kits and a couple flyers. More and more the lightweight RC stuff and electric technology getting better and better makes people fly little models and a lot.
 
Guillows has been upgrading their kits to laser cut versions. Now the WWI, WWII 18 and 16 inches are laser cut as well as the the new models like the Extra, Beaver and Porter, have been done for 2 or 3 years and now the series of larger 24 to 27 inch WWII ships is laser cut and the airfoils are changed on the Spitfire at least to some well known Sielig airfoils and have been reported to fly great.
 
Living in Tucson I can go get a Dumas kit at the factory (and the prices are NOT discounted!) and sure love those 24 inch Golden Age Racers and 30 inch WWII models. So many great model kits are out there that this is really one of the best periods of modeling I've ever known. Can't wait to get my new laser cut 27 inch Guillows Spitfire.

Chris... 

[Gary Dowler]

Some you guys have got to break out of your ice age, man!

I saw a post about Guillows and wanted to comment in a positive direction about it. I am seeing more and more modelers actually building kits and flying them on the facebook (I know) Guillows site than I am CL. In fact, there are a ton of FF and RC modelers building Guillows, Diels, Dumas, Herr and other kits and flying them every day by evidence of videos posted daily on those sites. I'm a closet FF Rubber Scale guy so I belong to some of these groups. Dan McEntee helped me 30 years ago rekindle an interest in FF Rubber flying winter Indoor and have a good selection of kits and a couple flyers. More and more the lightweight RC stuff and electric technology getting better and better makes people fly little models and a lot.
 
Guillows has been upgrading their kits to laser cut versions. Now the WWI, WWII 18 and 16 inches are laser cut as well as the the new models like the Extra, Beaver and Porter, have been done for 2 or 3 years and now the series of larger 24 to 27 inch WWII ships is laser cut and the airfoils are changed on the Spitfire at least to some well known Sielig airfoils and have been reported to fly great.
 
Living in Tucson I can go get a Dumas kit at the factory (and the prices are NOT discounted!) and sure love those 24 inch Golden Age Racers and 30 inch WWII models. So many great model kits are out there that this is really one of the best periods of modeling I've ever known. Can't wait to get my new laser cut 27 inch Guillows Spitfire.

Chris...

Recently bought a Guillows Beaver and was impressed when I looked in the box. Haven't touched it yet, but plan on making a 1/2A CL plane out of it.  Should be fun.

Gary

[Dave Hull]

Just about have the airframe construction complete on my Guillow's P-40 1/2A scaler. Enjoying it a lot.

Also like the look of the newer Extra.

Dave

[wwwarbird]

 Thanks for that insight Chris, interesting stuff. Maybe they should add a "Guillows Scale" class to the annual October 1/2A Scale contest down there? It could be for Guillows kit built models only with allowances for minor structural (additional strength) mods and unlimited detail and function additions. Might be a fun addition to any scale contest. 

[944_Jim]

Mr. Hull,
You are building in my favorite scale.
Please post pics, pretty please.
Oh, and post-build video with a flight report.

Does the Extra look like an .049 would fit well?

Thanks in advance!

[Dave Hull]

Lt. Jim (USSHAF),
.
There must  be a lot of us that like the P-40....

I like the Guillow's kits because they are like a box of possibilities. I heard that somewhere, and it is sure true for me. You can dream about what you would turn that box of parts into, as you embellish the plans, and...well, you get the idea, I'm sure.

Would like to post pictures, but still have to figure out how to link up my cell phone to all the rest of the world. Guess I'm going to have to break down and connect. I have a few earlier pics I could share. The one I attached shows pretty much the stock nose structure, except for the LE and some initial mods for the beefed up torsion bar landing gear that is going to go in.

I've got the interfill nose planking just about half done, but need to finalize the tank installation geometry before I go much further. Kind of stalled out there. So far, the setup is Cox Killer Bee back end and custom tank. All mounted to a sub-firewall unit so I can get at things for maintenance and adjustment. Trying not to get too heavy. Just got some 1/20 sheet balsa for planking the wing leading edge. With the wing-mounted gear, I wanted a little more strength there.

Have most (all?) of the hardware figured out, like wheels, gear legs, controls, etc. So except for the tank/engine/mount combination, the engineering is hopefully done.

I have no info on the Extra, other than I looked over the kit box at the hobby shop once. It looked promising to me as an .020 powered semi-stunter. That is what I would try. Bet that would be a lot of fun!

Divot McSlow


USSHAF---United States Stunt Hanger Air Force

[John Rist]

Also like the look of the newer Extra.

Dave

Is this an Extra 300S?  I Googled Guillows Extra and did not come up with anything.

[Dave Hull]

Sorry guys, my mistake. The Guillows offering I was thinking of is an Edge 540. The kit number is 703 LC. Wingspan is 20-3/16". I was thinking it was just right for an .020.

Dave "Dame brammage" Hull

[James Holford]

I know a guy that lazer cuts short kits of all the Guillows WW1 18" kits that are discontinued, and cleveland and sterling as well.. AND CHEAP.

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[Dan McEntee]

I know a guy that lazer cuts short kits of all the Guillows WW1 18" kits that are discontinued, and cleveland and sterling as well.. AND CHEAP.

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    Well son! Don't Bogart the information, spread it around! Email address or web site??
  Type at you later and HAPPY THANKSGIVING!
    Dan McEntee

[Andre Ming]

I know a guy that lazer cuts short kits of all the Guillows WW1 18" kits that are discontinued, and cleveland and sterling as well.. AND CHEAP.

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As a young teen, I had SOOO much fun building and flying those WW1 18" kits. The ones I built/flew that I "think" I can recall:

Sopwith Pup
Spad
Albatros
Fokker D7 (?)
SE5
Was there a DR tri plane?

May have built more... but I think I remember the above. 

I started using colored tissue paper from craft stores, so my SE5 was green, my Albatros was red, etc.

Andre

[James Holford]

As a young teen, I had SOOO much fun building and flying those WW1 18" kits. The ones I built/flew that I "think" I can recall:

Sopwith Pup
Spad
Albatros
Fokker D7 (?)
SE5
Was there a DR tri plane?

May have built more... but I think I remember the above. 

I started using colored tissue paper from craft stores, so my SE5 was green, my Albatros was red, etc.

Andre

He even does his own designs of WW1 birds too.

Dpcmodels.com

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[Tony Drago]

James. That's a neat site.
Thanks

[944_Jim]

Did someone say DCP Models?

No financial interest, but...

Dave cuts great kits! He prefers email...and may take a day to respond. But he sends fast after purchase!
He takes the original plans and alters them a bit. Consider the original kits he used to make the repops below. Scientific shipped them with a leading/trailing edge that was one piece routed for their respective shapes side-by-side (they were to be separated at build time)...the rib slots were cut into both edges at once with the same spacing. However, the trailing edge slots didn't directly line up "inline" with the leading edge slots because of the trapezoid shape of the wings. In other words, by the manufacturer the ribs would never be parallel to the profile fuselage.

Dave takes those plans and redraws them with the ribs parallel. The builder gets to slot the leading edge and trailing edge, and shape them. This fixes the rib alignment. He also fixes other errors if/when he finds them. The woods get digitized, then traced in his drafting suite in order to create the laser plots.

All of the kits I've bought from him come with the landing gear wire, pushrod wire, but the builder gets to cut/bend the wire. As with the original kits, the builder gets a plywood bellcrank,.and typically a plywood control horn. The wheels are plywood disks cut from the same stock as the bellcrank, control horn and firewall (with holes burned in for a Cox Babe Bee). The decals are Inkjet repops on paper...but they dope down just fine for a kid's kit. The original box art is scanned and printed as a cover over the kit, which is bagged in a plastic sleeve on a heavy sheet of corrogated cardboard with the repop build sheet. Our two kits below came with reproduction canopies and engine cowls (made from bucks poured in the original plastics). It was the cowls that drew my youngest to the Scientific repops. They were a joy to build! I did take liberties while guiding my boys in their builds. We added aluminum bellcranks, plastic control horns, removable bellcrank/landing gear mounts (in case they pancake the planes), and plastic/rubber wheels.

I have four other repop kits of his to build/finish...a Sterling P-38, Scientific Hellcat with box fuselage and plastic turtle deck, the P-40 Red Tiger, also with box fuselage and plastic turtle deck (needs to be finished), the Zero from that series of box fuselages, and a profile P-6E (along the lines of the Lil Toot)...all repops of high quality wood. All with repop plastics (I understand on the WW1 stuff some parts are built up balsa, not plastic).

My youngest son's Scientific Reproduction Typhoon:
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?2754564-Scientific-Hawker-Typhoon-Reproduction-by-DCP-Models#post36633452

My oldest son's FW-190:
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?2754568-Scientific-FW190-DCP-Models-reproduction#post36190826

[James Holford]

Did someone say DCP Models?

No financial interest, but...

Dave cuts great kits! He prefers email...and may take a day to respond. But he sends fast after purchase!
He takes the original plans and alters them a bit. Consider the original kits he used to make the repops below. Scientific shipped them with a leading/trailing edge that was one piece routed for their respective shapes side-by-side (they were to be separated at build time)...the rib slots were cut into both edges at once with the same spacing. However, the trailing edge slots didn't directly line up "inline" with the leading edge slots because of the trapezoid shape of the wings. In other words, by the manufacturer the ribs would never be parallel to the profile fuselage.

Dave takes those plans and redraws them with the ribs parallel. The builder gets to slot the leading edge and trailing edge, and shape them. This fixes the rib alignment. He also fixes other errors if/when he finds them. The woods get digitized, then traced in his drafting suite in order to create the laser plots.

All of the kits I've bought from him come with the landing gear wire, pushrod wire, but the builder gets to cut/bend the wire. As with the original kits, the builder gets a plywood bellcrank,.and typically a plywood control horn. The wheels are plywood disks cut from the same stock as the bellcrank, control horn and firewall (with holes burned in for a Cox Babe Bee). The decals are Inkjet repops on paper...but they dope down just fine for a kid's kit. The original box art is scanned and printed as a cover over the kit, which is bagged in a plastic sleeve on a heavy sheet of corrogated cardboard with the repop build sheet. Our two kits below came with reproduction canopies and engine cowls (made from bucks poured in the original plastics). It was the cowls that drew my youngest to the Scientific repops. They were a joy to build! I did take liberties while guiding my boys in their builds. We added aluminum bellcranks, plastic control horns, removable bellcrank/landing gear mounts (in case they pancake the planes), and plastic/rubber wheels.

I have four other repop kits of his to build/finish...a Sterling P-38, Scientific Hellcat with box fuselage and plastic turtle deck, the P-40 Red Tiger, also with box fuselage and plastic turtle deck (needs to be finished), the Zero from that series of box fuselages, and a profile P-6E (along the lines of the Lil Toot)...all repops of high quality wood. All with repop plastics (I understand on the WW1 stuff some parts are built up balsa, not plastic).

My youngest son's Scientific Reproduction Typhoon:
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?2754564-Scientific-Hawker-Typhoon-Reproduction-by-DCP-Models#post36633452

My oldest son's FW-190:
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?2754568-Scientific-FW190-DCP-Models-reproduction#post36190826

I been knowing Dave online since 2002 from the Aerodrome forum. Scored a set of Redfern Dr.1 full scale drawings from him.

 Last year I got his Sopwith Pup kit and man is it just lovely!!!!! For less than $25 bucks for a laser cut scale WW1 kit. You can never go wrong.

 He also just came out with the Sterling Nieuport 28 34" WS short kit!!! And thats at a very good price as well!!!

 Great guy to deal with.

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[James Holford]

Did someone say DCP Models?

No financial interest, but...

Dave cuts great kits! He prefers email...and may take a day to respond. But he sends fast after purchase!
He takes the original plans and alters them a bit. Consider the original kits he used to make the repops below. Scientific shipped them with a leading/trailing edge that was one piece routed for their respective shapes side-by-side (they were to be separated at build time)...the rib slots were cut into both edges at once with the same spacing. However, the trailing edge slots didn't directly line up "inline" with the leading edge slots because of the trapezoid shape of the wings. In other words, by the manufacturer the ribs would never be parallel to the profile fuselage.

Dave takes those plans and redraws them with the ribs parallel. The builder gets to slot the leading edge and trailing edge, and shape them. This fixes the rib alignment. He also fixes other errors if/when he finds them. The woods get digitized, then traced in his drafting suite in order to create the laser plots.

All of the kits I've bought from him come with the landing gear wire, pushrod wire, but the builder gets to cut/bend the wire. As with the original kits, the builder gets a plywood bellcrank,.and typically a plywood control horn. The wheels are plywood disks cut from the same stock as the bellcrank, control horn and firewall (with holes burned in for a Cox Babe Bee). The decals are Inkjet repops on paper...but they dope down just fine for a kid's kit. The original box art is scanned and printed as a cover over the kit, which is bagged in a plastic sleeve on a heavy sheet of corrogated cardboard with the repop build sheet. Our two kits below came with reproduction canopies and engine cowls (made from bucks poured in the original plastics). It was the cowls that drew my youngest to the Scientific repops. They were a joy to build! I did take liberties while guiding my boys in their builds. We added aluminum bellcranks, plastic control horns, removable bellcrank/landing gear mounts (in case they pancake the planes), and plastic/rubber wheels.

I have four other repop kits of his to build/finish...a Sterling P-38, Scientific Hellcat with box fuselage and plastic turtle deck, the P-40 Red Tiger, also with box fuselage and plastic turtle deck (needs to be finished), the Zero from that series of box fuselages, and a profile P-6E (along the lines of the Lil Toot)...all repops of high quality wood. All with repop plastics (I understand on the WW1 stuff some parts are built up balsa, not plastic).

My youngest son's Scientific Reproduction Typhoon:
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?2754564-Scientific-Hawker-Typhoon-Reproduction-by-DCP-Models#post36633452

My oldest son's FW-190:
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?2754568-Scientific-FW190-DCP-Models-reproduction#post36190826

Excellent builds!!!!!
 
I need to get his Sterling Beginner Eindecker... 2 of them in fact and bash one into a Morane Saulnier. I already have the  beginner Fokker DVII and man those "struts" that come in that little kit haunts me lol.

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[Skip Chernoff]

Many many years ago I built a Guillows "Giant Scale " Hellcat for 4 channel R/C .I was using Cannon R/C micro servos back then. Power was a G Mark .061. It was a bit underpowered,but flew. I'd build another one using today's really lightweight equipment.BTW it was a great looking model.

[FLOYD CARTER]

I used to build from Guillows kits, and others, including those Joe Ott kits of WWII.  .  I have always been fascinated by stick and tissue models.

Nowadays, it makes sense to use electric power and R/C-assist..for reliable flight and easy retrieval.

Biggest boon to stick and tissue has been CA.  Eliminates pins, clamps, etc.

[Mark Mc]

Well, this thread roused my interest again.  I last tried to build a Guillows model about five years ago with my son to see if he was interested.  It was a Javelin, as that looked like the easiest to start with.  We got the tail surfaces done, but that was about it.  He didn’t have the bug.  So the plane sat on top of his desk gathering dust until I took it and put it away for completion one day when I got the urge.  It was die crushed, and a lot of work to smooth out the crushing, so I hadn’t been motivated to get back to it.  This thread got me looking at YouTube videos and on Amazon to check out Guillows kits.  So, when I went to the post office today, I bopped over to the hobby shop downtown and looked at their selection of kits.  Only the laser cut kits, no die cutting.  The cheapest was $15.99, and I wasn’t taken by it, so I grabbed the 16.5" FW-190 kit at $16.99.

When I opened the box up and looked at the laser cutting, I was most impressed.  Clean cuts straight through.  Gonna be a much easier build.  Below are a scan and a picture of one of the smaller laser cut sheets.  Unfortunately, my camera focal plane won’t get the whole sheet, but you can see at the center of focus how good the laser cutting is.  It’s all this clean.





But, wouldn’t you know it.  After I scanned the sheet and took the picture, I looked in the closet to see if I could find the old, set-aside Javelin kit, and I found a Guillows Piper Super Cub laser-cut kit that I bought a while back and forgot about…

So the question now is, build the 16.5” FW-190 kit first?  Or the 24” Super Cub kit first.  I’m thinking the Piper Cub first, since it’s bigger (I have fat fingers) and less compound curves.


James, I looked at the DCP website after your comment, and now I’m going to have to order all the Sterling Beginner series control line planes he sells.  I’ve wanted to own all 15 of them, but finding plans or kits for them all is nigh impossible.
Mark

[James Holford]

Well, this thread roused my interest again.  I last tried to build a Guillows model about five years ago with my son to see if he was interested.  It was a Javelin, as that looked like the easiest to start with.  We got the tail surfaces done, but that was about it.  He didn�t have the bug.  So the plane sat on top of his desk gathering dust until I took it and put it away for completion one day when I got the urge.  It was die crushed, and a lot of work to smooth out the crushing, so I hadn�t been motivated to get back to it.  This thread got me looking at YouTube videos and on Amazon to check out Guillows kits.  So, when I went to the post office today, I bopped over to the hobby shop downtown and looked at their selection of kits.  Only the laser cut kits, no die cutting.  The cheapest was $15.99, and I wasn�t taken by it, so I grabbed the 16.5" FW-190 kit at $16.99.

When I opened the box up and looked at the laser cutting, I was most impressed.  Clean cuts straight through.  Gonna be a much easier build.  Below are a scan and a picture of one of the smaller laser cut sheets.  Unfortunately, my camera focal plane won�t get the whole sheet, but you can see at the center of focus how good the laser cutting is.  It�s all this clean.





But, wouldn�t you know it.  After I scanned the sheet and took the picture, I looked in the closet to see if I could find the old, set-aside Javelin kit, and I found a Guillows Piper Super Cub laser-cut kit that I bought a while back and forgot about�

So the question now is, build the 16.5� FW-190 kit first?  Or the 24� Super Cub kit first.  I�m thinking the Piper Cub first, since it�s bigger (I have fat fingers) and less compound curves.


James, I looked at the DCP website after your comment, and now I�m going to have to order all the Sterling Beginner series control line planes he sells.  I�ve wanted to own all 15 of them, but finding plans or kits for them all is nigh impossible.
Mark

Get'em!!!!

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[Mark Mc]

Get'em!!!!

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*SIGH*

I just got a reply from DCP models.  He's short on the wood he needs to cut the models, so I'm gonna have to wait until his next supply delivery...

Mark

[Larry Fernandez]

Lt. Jim (USSHAF),
.
There must  be a lot of us that like the P-40....

I like the Guillow's kits because they are like a box of possibilities. I heard that somewhere, and it is sure true for me. You can dream about what you would turn that box of parts into, as you embellish the plans, and...well, you get the idea, I'm sure.

Would like to post pictures, but still have to figure out how to link up my cell phone to all the rest of the world. Guess I'm going to have to break down and connect. I have a few earlier pics I could share. The one I attached shows pretty much the stock nose structure, except for the LE and some initial mods for the beefed up torsion bar landing gear that is going to go in.

I've got the interfill nose planking just about half done, but need to finalize the tank installation geometry before I go much further. Kind of stalled out there. So far, the setup is Cox Killer Bee back end and custom tank. All mounted to a sub-firewall unit so I can get at things for maintenance and adjustment. Trying not to get too heavy. Just got some 1/20 sheet balsa for planking the wing leading edge. With the wing-mounted gear, I wanted a little more strength there.

Have most (all?) of the hardware figured out, like wheels, gear legs, controls, etc. So except for the tank/engine/mount combination, the engineering is hopefully done.

I have no info on the Extra, other than I looked over the kit box at the hobby shop once. It looked promising to me as an .020 powered semi-stunter. That is what I would try. Bet that would be a lot of fun!

Divot McSlow


USSHAF---United States Stunt Hanger Air Force

This thread brought back some childhood memories.
As a kid, I built dozens of rubber powered kits as well as hand launch gliders. After reading the posts on this thread, I dug out a couple of old Guillows kits to build just for grins. Still a lot of fun, especially since I build a little bit better than when I was ten years old.

[Ara Dedekian]

          Crash repairs are done, three stunt planes are trimmed(commensurate to my level of flying), engines are set and waiting for spring and Brodak's. In the meantime, indoor rubber flying starts with the Boston Flying Aces Club in January. Comet, 'dime scale' (Comet kits cost ten cents back in the day) Battle of Britain fighters are the theme this year. Guillow bought out Comet years ago and discontinued the line.

          As Larry said in the previous post, they're lot's of fun and a nice change of pace.

          Ara

[FLOYD CARTER]

I surveyed the entire Guillows line.  I find that most are quite small.  I was looking for something at least 40" wingspan.  A couple, but the selection didn't show me one that would be suitable for electric and R/C conversion.

The planes of that description which I have built are typically 48", but I had to scratch-build from OT plans.

[Trostle]

I surveyed the entire Guillows line.  I find that most are quite small.  I was looking for something at least 40" wingspan.  A couple, but the selection didn't show me one that would be suitable for electric and R/C conversion.

The planes of that description which I have built are typically 48", but I had to scratch-build from OT plans.

Hi Floyd,

A suggestion that will open up a lot of options.  All of the Cleveland plans are available from Cleveland models.  Opens up a lot of options from WW I to post WW II, millitary and civilian, single engine, multi engine.  And the plans can be ordered to any size.  The plans show ribs and formers.

Also, thought you would like to know, I am installing the ignition system you sent to me some time ago in the 56" Madman.  The airplane is almost ready to cover.  Orwick .64.

Keith

[Tony Drago]

I surveyed the entire Guillows line.  I find that most are quite small.  I was looking for something at least 40" wingspan.  A couple, but the selection didn't show me one that would be suitable for electric and R/C conversion.

The planes of that description which I have built are typically 48", but I had to scratch-build from OT plans.

Floyd.
 I know what you mean. I was looking on spending some $$$ on Guillows DQed P-39. But at only 25in ws, no way.
 Keith's mention on the Cleveland kit options looks like a winner.

[John Rist]

I got interested in building a stick and paper model because Ty gave me an old Comet kit.  The P38 Lightning.  That kit is an absolute disaster.  The big problem is that the plans are not to scale.  When I started to build the booms I noticed that the drawing was little small around the vertical fin area.  But I went ahead and built on top of the plan,  fudging a little along the way to make it fit.  I then realized that as you build the wing and the center section they have to fit the tail booms.  Anyway by fiddling, fitting, and drawing my own plans I managed to frame it up.   I must admit it served it purpose.  It like reading a book or working a jig saw puzzle - no real point but  passing time and having fun!   

Anyway a photo attached of my effort.

I now have a  Guillow's P-51 Mustang Laser Cut Model Kit - No.402 LC  on the way.  Love the water cooled fighters.  They are sleek.  Air cooled fighters look fat.

[Mark Mc]

Love the water cooled fighters.  They are sleek.  Air cooled fighters look fat.

Correction:  Water cooled fighters look like gawky, flat-chested teenagers.  Radial engine fighters look like voluptuous, sexy women.

Fixed it for  you.   

[John Rist]

Correction:  Water cooled fighters look like gawky, flat-chested teenagers.  Radial engine fighters look like voluptuous, sexy women.

Fixed it for  you.   

I was talking mean lean fighting machines not love bunnies.      

[Mark Mc]

I was talking mean lean fighting machines not love bunnies.      

I'm from Alabama.  There's a difference?

[James Holford]

I'm from Alabama.  There's a difference?

I'm in Louisiana and there is NO DIFFERENCE lol

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[FLOYD CARTER]

Also, thought you would like to know, I am installing the ignition system you sent to me some time ago in the 56" Madman.  The airplane is almost ready to cover.  Orwick .64.

Keith
[/quote]

Keith.   I was wondering when you would get your spark ignition up and running.  You will be pleased with the 56" Madman/Orwick combo.  Here is my 56" Madman.  I'm pretty sure this color scheme accurately represents the planes of JC Yates, whose planes all had the same paint treatment.

[Mark Mc]

HI Mark. John Rist is from Alabama, member or NACA.  What part of Bama are  you in?

Hey, Ty.  I haven't lived in Alabama for years.  Not since I went into the Navy right after graduating from high school.  But I grew up just outside of Birmingham.  That's where my formative years were, and I call home, mostly.

Mark

[Mark Mc]

The heck of it is, I now understand what most are saying.   

Ah, the South.  Where they can turn any one syllable word into two, and any two syllable word into an argument about the War of Norther Aggression....