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General control line discussion => Open Forum => Topic started by: Bill Little on November 30, 2011, 06:06:00 PM
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OK, All, I am in need of suggestions as to what type of paint to redo the Johnson .35 I got from Ed Ruane. It was bright green like the one in the separate thread here in the open section,
I want to be able to run the engine so I am just not sure of what type of paint to use. I have some bright green acrylic lacquer that is Candy Green and will closely resemble the Johnson .35 shown.
Thanks!
Big Bear
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Bill,
I believe you may need a heat resistance paint seeing you're going to run it.
"Eastwoods" sells all kinds of products for the car enthusiasts. May not have what you want, but I do know they sell paint. All kinds. Their market place is the Restoration and Hot Rod guys.
I used to buy my lead from them. Lead for metalwork. Here's the link. Good luck.
CB
http://www.eastwood.com/?srccode=ga200220&gclid=CMuGl4PY36wCFZJS7AodbAjeoQ
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Bill look in the exhaust and see if that piston is domed not flat. If it is it is a very early Johnson. Maybe one of the first 100 built. The .29 I sold to George was the 12 th .29 motor built wirh the Johnson name on it. Only four head bolts. Yours has six. I never had the head off it.
Ed
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I repainted my Orwick 29 with butyrate dope mixed to be very close in color to the original paint on my 64. Flew it for years, just repainted it and this time I shot a coat of primer on first as the dope alone would chip off (exactly the same way as the original Orwick paint jobs). Heat was never a problem. I was under the impression that Henry Orwick used a stock car paint on his, probably an acrylic lacquer back then.
Don
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Bill look in the exhaust and see if that piston is domed not flat. If it is it is a very early Johnson. Maybe one of the first 100 built. The .29 I sold to George was the 12 th .29 motor built wirh the Johnson name on it. Only four head bolts. Yours has six. I never had the head off it.
Ed
Hi Ed,
Looks like it is a flat top piston.
Bill
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I repainted my Orwick 29 with butyrate dope mixed to be very close in color to the original paint on my 64. Flew it for years, just repainted it and this time I shot a coat of primer on first as the dope alone would chip off (exactly the same way as the original Orwick paint jobs). Heat was never a problem. I was under the impression that Henry Orwick used a stock car paint on his, probably an acrylic lacquer back then.
Don
Thanks, Don. I will polish up the case and then spray some Candy Green from HOK.
Bill
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I am not sure that the heat resistant engine paints are the way to go. I have used them to repaint McCoy Red Heads, and the heat does not hurt them, but the fuel sure does. I have thought about trying either enamel or maybe lacquer or dope like Don said. The black I used on a few Ohlsson's seems to be holding up pretty well. My Orwick 64 is one of the late ones built by Orwick that still has most of the original smooth green paint. But I do fly it quite a bit and I am sure it will need repainting in the future, so I am interested in what you guys come up with that works.
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Well, the "Green" is a moot point. The one I have is a newer one and was never green (6 bolt head).
I have painted a Fox .35 and a Veco .19 BB with high temp brake caliper red which is oil, chemical, resistant.
Big Bear
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Well, the "Green" is a moot point. The one I have is a newer one and was never green (6 bolt head).I have painted a Fox .35 and a Veco .19 BB with high temp brake caliper red which is oil, chemical, resistant.
Big Bear
Bill,
Did you scratch up the aluminum or prep with an acid etch? Before you painted?
CB
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Bill,
Did you scratch up the aluminum or prep with an acid etch? Before you painted?
CB
HI CB,
I did a soaking in boiling water with dishwasher detergent (not dishWASHING) before and then cleaned with acetone, which worked just fine.
Bill
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bill it was a baked on enamal. Sorry i don't remember who did it. The green would bleach out. maybe anilin dye. then you would have a clear-case which we never produced as a clear-case. I bet if you contact tony nacaratto he might know. Pee wee is a genius and has a great memory.
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bill it was a baked on enamal. Sorry i don't remember who did it. The green would bleach out. maybe anilin dye. then you would have a clear-case which we never produced as a clear-case. I bet if you contact tony nacaratto he might know. Pee wee is a genius and has a great memory.
Hi Jim,
Thanks for the info, but this one is off the table. It is a later version which was not green so I am not going to do it. ;D
Bill
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the greencases were all sand castings. inly 35s no other sizes. In 50 plus years there are a lot of fakes I'm sure. jim
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Hi Jim,
Thanks for the info, but this one is off the table. It is a later version which was not green so I am not going to do it. ;D
Bill
Good choice......as far as not painting that one.........I been thinking about trying "powder-coat"; you spray it on then bake it in the oven. Mama may not like the idea, mw~ %^ so I'm looking for a small electric oven for outside the house. >:D
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Good choice......as far as not painting that one.........I been thinking about trying "powder-coat"; you spray it on then bake it in the oven. Mama may not like the idea, mw~ %^ so I'm looking for a small electric oven for outside the house. >:D
Yeah we powder coat some of the race car parts, but it can cause fitment issues if you are not careful.
Big Bear
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Yeah we powder coat some of the race car parts, but it can cause fitment issues if you are not careful.
Big Bear
Yup....that's the sticky part....don't want it on the head/cyl. mating surfaces...or the crank housing/cover...exhaust port either. ;) I'd try the anodizing trick, but I don't know if I could get together everything on the list.
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I wonder if powder coating metal tanks could work, or would it melt the solder joints?
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Hi John,
I tried powder coating my wife's bicycle, everthing went fine until the chain guard. That was soldered together and guess what.
Andrew.
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feen spotwielded since before iwas a kid, soldered indeed! powder coat may be what was done, but it would still need clear epoxy to make it shiney like that.
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How do the guys on the bike shows get the powder coat to come out shiny out of the booth??? H^^
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How do the guys on the bike shows get the powder coat to come out shiny out of the booth??? H^^
Hi Doc,
As I am sure you know, he gloss or flat finish is an outcome of the type of powder used. Most of all I have seen was very glossy.
Big Bear
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For engine painting try Duracoat. It was made for firearms and is the most durable finish I have found and comes in small bottles and is applied with an airbrush. Lots of colors too. I have used it on guns and engines and it holds up great!